Echinacea, sometimes known as coneflowers, is a hardy perennial in the daisy family (Asteraceae). They are indigenous to the eastern and central United States, from Colorado to Texas in the south and the Great Lakes in the north. Here is how to cultivate this native American plant in your garden.
About Coneflowers
These quick-growing plants have a height range of 2 to 4 feet, blossom from midsummer till the first fall frost, and self-sow profusely. Coneflowers are named for their elevated, conical centers that draw bees and butterflies. The seed heads draw songbirds like goldfinches once they blossom. Once they are established in a conventional garden or a meadow of wildflowers, coneflowers enjoy the heat and are trouble-free.
The majority of echinacea species are purple (E. purpurea), but there are up to nine naturally occurring varieties that are yellow or purple (E. paradox). More sizes and colors are available with hybrids, but there are drawbacks as well: many of them lack genetic diversity and are sterile, which means they cannot produce viable seed.
The lower stem of the plant, which is frequently prickly, is referred to by its genus name Echinacea, which is derived from the Latin word for hedgehog, echinus. Coneflowers are so named because their elevated, cone-shaped centers are filled with seeds that draw butterflies. After bloom, leave the seed heads on the plant to draw in songbirds like goldfinches! They are less susceptible to deer than other floral plants since they are native plants with thorny stems.
When grown in large groups, coneflowers are spectacular, especially when they are a combination of different colors.
Coneflowers prefer soil that drains well and direct sunlight. Although coneflowers can thrive in a variety of soil types, nutrient-rich soil is where they bloom at their finest. 12 to 15 inches of loose soil should be added, along with a 2 to 4 inch layer of compost or aged manure. Pick a spot where the coneflowers won’t be shaded out or languish in soggy ground. If the correct circumstances exist, they will spread quickly. (Read up on how to get soil ready for planting.)
When to Plant Coneflowers
Coneflowers are typically purchased as little plants that will soon bloom. Planting time for these should be in the spring, early summer, or fall.
- Coneflowers should be planted while they are young and will bloom in the spring or early summer.
- Eight to ten weeks prior to the last spring frost date, seeds can be started inside. Alternately, plant them outside after the soil has warmed to at least 65°F (18°C). Plants grown from seeds are unlikely to blossom for two to three years.
- Note: Coneflower plants will rapidly self-seed if you don’t clip them back.
- Coneflowers should only be divided or moved in the spring or fall.
How to Plant Coneflowers
- Coneflowers should be spaced 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the variety’s mature size.
- Dig a hole that is almost twice as wide as the pot if you are planting from one. The root ball of the plant should be level with the soil surface when it is placed. To the top of the root ball, fill in.
- At planting, give it plenty of water.
- To help keep plants wet and discourage weeds, cover the soil top with thin layers of compost, followed by mulch.
Learn more about the advantages of planting coneflowers by watching our video:
Coneflowers can withstand drought, although young plants require water from time to time, and more frequently if the spring is particularly dry.
- To help keep the plants wet and discourage weeds, mulch and compost in thin layers should be placed around them.
- Fertilizer is rarely needed in native soil. When you plant, make sure your soil has a lot of organic matter.
- If the spring is particularly dry or your coneflowers are recently planted, just add extra water in the late spring.
- When flowers start to fade, deadhead to extend the bloom duration. Trim stems to a leaf close to a bud. Late-season deadheading stops self-seeding and bird feeding.
- Optional: When coneflower plants bloom, prune them back by a foot to promote delayed blooming for fall enjoyment. Because coneflowers have a tendency to become lanky, this will result in later blossoming and more compact growth. For more evenly spaced bloom heights and periods, cut certain flowers but not others.
- August could bring on beneficial army beetles that resemble wasps. They pollinate plants and eat bug eggs and larvae. Avoid hurting them.
- In cooler areas, scatter mulch around plants in the late fall.
- When stems wilt or after a hard cold, trim them back to the soil line. Cut back in the late winter to encourage self-seeding. When cleaning up the garden in the late winter or early spring, prune back the plants.
- Optional: Think about allowing late-season flowers to develop on the plants. Birds will be drawn to the seed heads, which will encourage self-seeding. If you prefer not to have self-seeding, deadheading will stop it. Cut the dead flower back to a leaf where you can see a bud that is about to swell in order to deadhead.
- Coneflowers can be divided or moved in the spring or fall.
Growing Coneflowers in Pots
Coneflowers are often grown in the ground as perennial plants, but you can grow them in pots if the pots are deep enough to accommodate the plant’s taproot. Use containers with drainage holes that are at least 2 or 3 gallons in size. For drainage, spread crushed gravel in the pots’ bottoms. With potting mix, halfway fill the pot. Slow down. Spread the roots out and plant the root ball an inch below the container’s rim. Gently press down the soil after adding it gradually until it is level with the top of the root ball. Deep breathing.
- Place pots in full morning sun and half afternoon shade after keeping them in partial shade for two to three days.
- Always deeply water the soil when it feels dry to the touch. There is a risk of fungus from water on leaves.
- Every few weeks, fertilize the soil with a water-soluble 10-10-10 product.
- For sustained flowering, remove the dead flowerheads slightly below the flower’s base.
- When plant development slows in the fall, trim plants to the soil level to overwinter them.
- Move to a spot with low to moderate indirect light and a cool (40 to 50 °F) temperature.
- Every few weeks, check the soil and water it lightly if the top 3 inches are dry.
- If new growth starts to sprout in the spring, relocate to a warmer (60 to 70 °F) and more sunny spot. Moving the plant aids in preparing it for life in the spring and summer outdoors.
- Avoid watering leaves from above since this can promote fungus on the leaves. Instead, hydrate the soil. If you notice any bugs or aphids, use a neem oil solution spray or an insecticidal soap.
- Dividing and repotting echinacea plants every three to four years following the start of new growth is recommended.
- Echinacea purpurea cultivar “Robert Bloom” features pronounced, dark orange centers and vivid scarlet flower petals.
- The dark mauve flower petals of Tennessee coneflower (Echinacea tennesseensis) have greenish-pink cores.
- Echinacea purpurea’s “Finale White” variety includes flower heads that are creamy white with greenish-brown cores.
- The soft-yellow petals of the hybrid echinacea “Cleopatra” have golden-green cores.
Will coneflowers in pots last the winter?
Simply plant the seed in the container in the fall and leave it outside to start your coneflowers from seed. As a result, the stratification that the seeds require to germinate will naturally occur. If you are transplanting a seedling, be sure to keep the soil level—you don’t want to bury the crown.
Coneflowers growing in containers should be fertilized with 10-10-10 fertilizer. Put the container in a spot that gets direct sunlight.
Coneflowers can be grown in pots down to USDA zone 5, as they are hardy in zones 3 to 9. For additional winter protection, you can bury the container in the ground or mulch all around it.
Should coneflowers be deadheaded?
Coneflowers can also be pruned in the summer. Pruning, meanwhile, does not appear the same in the summer as it does in the spring or fall. When you prune in the summer, it is more akin to “dead heading” and bouquet-making trimming. Unlike in the fall or spring, you won’t want to completely prune your plant.
In order to deadhead your coneflowers in the summer, you must remove bloom-expiring flowers. Deadheading is frequently done to maintain the plant’s appearance, stop seed production, and promote new blooms on the plant.
Did you know that cutting the flowers will increase the amount of blooming in many coneflower species? It’s true that cutting your flowers to enjoy indoors can frequently lead to even more blooms all summer long. So pull out the scissors and enjoy the lovely blooms both inside and outside.
Coneflowers do well in pots.
Deep roots are a characteristic of these plants, especially the less-cultivated species. For a three-foot-tall plant, that’s over six feet deep! You can’t expect this plant to thrive if you place it in a small pot.
Either a fibrous root system or a long, delicate taproot with lateral roots and root hairs makes up the root structure. The most prevalent species, E. purpurea, has a fibrous root structure that extends far shallower than those with taproots.
Make careful to choose a deep container to retain that lengthy taproot if you choose one of the other species (such as E. pallida, E. angustifolia, or E. tennesseensis).
Although a pot that is about 24 inches deep and a foot broad will do, a pot that is six feet deep is not necessary.
It is possible to grow E. purpurea in a shallower container. Start with something that is 12 inches deep and wide.
Make careful to pick something larger if necessary if you intend to build a mixed-plant pot. Coneflowers thrive in communities with species of salvia, bee balm, phlox, and anise hyssop.
The size of the container is more crucial than its material. Black or metal pots are OK because echinacea can withstand heat, but they must be sturdy enough to remain upright once the coneflower has reached maturity.
When the dirt has dried a little, a thin metal container can become remarkably light. You have the ideal circumstances for your pot to fall over immediately if you add that to a tall echinacea plant that is in full bloom.
Terra cotta also works, but keep in mind that, especially in the winter, these can fracture or come apart.
Pots made of concrete or stone are more durable and less likely to overheat, but they can be heavy and difficult to transport.
A better substitute would be fiberglass or wood because they are lighter and less prone to cracking. However, wood may rot, necessitating upkeep to keep containers in good condition.
Make sure it has at least one sizable drainage hole, whichever option you choose. For the aforementioned container sizes, an inch-wide hole or several quarter-inch holes are ideal.
Before planting, cover the hole or holes with netting or newspaper if you are concerned that dirt will leak out.
How are coneflowers in containers overwintered?
In pots, most coneflower species may survive the winter down to USDA Zone 5. You should be able to care for your potted coneflowers very well over the winter if you have planters with coneflowers in them and live in a USDA growth zone between 9 and 5. Place your coneflower planters in direct sunlight and fertilize with a balanced fertilizer. Make sure to keep watering it once it dries completely. You can shield the coneflower if you anticipate an especially chilly winter by piling mulch on top of it.
How can coneflowers be made bushy?
Echinacea plants don’t need any additional feedings when they are grown in good, rich soil. These plants may eventually turn lanky if they receive excessive fertilizer. However, they will gain from compost applications made once a year in the spring. Your plants’ foliage and blossoms will look healthier thanks to the compost’s great nutrient boost.
The best time to prune your Echinacea plants is in the spring if you want to achieve a generally bushy appearance. Your beauties’ blooming season will be extended by this procedure, which will assure their healthy growth. These plants can also have all of their dead flowers removed to allow place for new ones to bloom.
How frequently should coneflowers be watered?
These low-maintenance perennials just need the bare minimum: frequent watering of approximately one inch per week, a small spring compost addition, and fall pruning, though even that is optional if you like to leave the seed heads.
Pruning: Many modern cultivars are flower factories and will continue to produce without needing to snip off spent blooms, even though deadheading is a standard gardening practice to promote recurrent flowering. In this manner, you may simply leave the seeds alone, providing food for yet another favored group of wild birds, especially tiny songbirds like goldfinches that are particularly fond of the seeds. Why not just let the early, larger flowers go to seed and provide the birds with a feast? Post-deadheading blossoms can be smaller and less gratifying.
Once your coneflower’s flowering is done, you can trim it to the ground so that it can survive the winter. Or, you can chop it down in the first few weeks of spring if you’d rather leave the dry seed heads.
If the flowers are little or poorly developed, add some compost to the soil surrounding the plants as an amendment and fertilizer. Be cautious because excessive feeding might result in a surplus of foliage and a dearth of blossoms.
Watering: Tolerates drought, but thrives under conditions of normal to low rainfall. Water often, but allow the soil to dry out in between. Every week, coneflowers require at least one inch of water.
Divide clumps when they become crowded, roughly every 4 years. If you leave spent blooms in tact, they will easily reseed themselves. If they start to get out of control, deadheading can assist. Some gardeners strike a balance by gathering the seeds and planting them in strategically chosen locations for the following season.
Diseases and pests: Aster yellows, a virus-like illness brought on by a phytoplasma, is one issue that should be noted with Echinacea. Deformed flowers, occasionally with strange tufts in the cones, and yellow leaves with green veins are symptoms. Leafhoppers and other sap-sucking insects disseminate the bacterium (and can also be spread on pruners during deadheading). Once you realize a plant is diseased, dig it up right away and discard it because there is no treatment. Leaf miners, powdery mildew, bacterial spots, gray mold, vine weevils, and Japanese beetles can all plague them.
How can you ensure that coneflowers bloom all summer long?
That being stated, the main care for coneflowers is deadheading. Since they bloom frequently, you can prolong the blooming season by deadheading (removing the spent flowers from living plants). Each flower blooms at the top of the stalk and continues to bloom for a few weeks.