Over 75 species of flowering plants in the genus Hydrangea (/hadrendi/), sometimes known as Hortensia or hydrangea, are indigenous to Asia and the Americas. In eastern Asia, especially in China, Korea, and Japan, there is by far the greatest variety of species. The majority are 13 m (3 ft 3 in. or 9 ft 10 in.) tall shrubs, although some are small trees and some have lianas that can grow up trees to heights of 30 m (100 ft). Although the frequently cultivated temperate species are all deciduous, they can also be evergreen. [3]
In reference to the design of its seed capsules, the name “hydrangea” is derived from the Greek and meaning “water vessel” (from water + or vessel).
[4] The former name, Hortensia, is a Latinized version of the French given name Hortense and was given in honor of Nicole-Reine Hortense Lepaute, a French astronomer and mathematician.
[5] This statement is refuted on page 88 of Nicole-Reine Hortense Lepaute’s biography, citation 10, where it is stated: “Larousse considers this an injustice and remarks that it has caused many people to believe falsely that “Hortensia” was one of her names; it was likely only the Latin adjective from “hortus.”
Where do hydrangeas thrive in nature?
Learning the fundamentals of how to plant hydrangeas can help you save time and money, just like with most other items in your garden. You’ll improve your chances of enjoying big, vibrant hydrangea flowers for years to come by picking the appropriate site, getting the soil just right, and planting correctly.
When should I plant hydrangeas?
The best time to grow hydrangeas is in the fall, followed by early spring. The goal is to provide the shrub lots of time to develop a strong root system before it blooms. Early in the day or late in the day are the ideal times to plant. The day’s cooler hours provide relief from heat exhaustion. Water new plants frequently until they get established.
Locations to plant hydrangeas
The first step is knowing where to grow hydrangea plants. Hydrangeas are frequently grown in beds adjacent to houses or fences. This is so because hydrangeas prefer the mild early sun to the hot afternoon sun. A protected area with sunny mornings and shaded afternoons is the ideal spot to plant hydrangeas. This is frequently found on the north or south side of a house. Avoid planting underneath trees since it could cause competition for nutrients and water. Flowers and leaves can both be destroyed by strong winds.
hydrangea-friendly soil
The soil needs to be rich in organic matter for hydrangeas to thrive. Drainage is important. Although hydrangeas prefer damp soil, they cannot stand standing water. Root rot can be brought on by wet, poorly draining soils. Your hydrangeas could pass away in a matter of weeks. Consider adding a lot of compost to your heavy soil before planting to increase the soil’s quality.
Methods for planting hydrangeas
Simply dig planting holes that are 2 feet wider than the root ball for planting hydrangeas. So that your plant lies level with or just higher than the surrounding soil, match the depth of the hole to the size of the root ball. You can improve water drainage away from the plant’s base by making a small mound.
The best way to grow hydrangeas
Simple propagation methods can multiply a single hydrangea into several more. The optimal time to layer bigleaf and panicle hydrangeas is in the early to mid-summer. You only need to:
- Close to your hydrangea plant, make a tiny trench.
- Bend a branch such that the middle of the branch meets the earth in the trench (six to 12 inches of branch should extend past the trench).
- Where the branch meets the trench soil, make scuff marks on the bark.
- After the trench is filled, cover it with a paver, brick, or stone.
- The branch can be transplanted to a different area once it has established its own root system over time.
Hydrangeas with smooth or oakleaf leaves produce new growth from underground stems. Simply separate the baby plant from the main plant by digging it up. After then, it can be moved to a new spot.
Are the flowers on hydrangeas actually flowers?
The ruffled globes of this bridal favorite mix memories of grandma’s summer garden with the whispered promise of impending romance.
Hardy deciduous hydrangea shrubs can reach heights of 36′ (12 m) and 610′ (23 m), and they have huge leaves and magnificent, spherical flower heads can measure 412″ (1030 cm) in diameter. Each flower head contains numerous tiny, flat florets that are each 1/21 1/2″ in diameter (1.34 cm). The flower heads feature four sepals on each of the male and female florets, which are actually extensions of the calyx or base of the flower. The magnificent new hybrids with double blossoms have 12 or more “petals.” The floret designs of new hybrids are changing, and there is a wider range of vibrant colors available. Cut stems are 818″ long (2046 cm).
The Hydrangea macrophylla species is the source of the majority of cultivars and hybrids of Hydrangea that are currently in use by floral designers. These are divided into two major categories: lacecaps and mopheads (the traditional, fully rounded globes of florets) (more saucer-shaped inflorescences, with a halo of larger florets ringing a central disc of tiny ones).
The unique charm of hydrangea flowers is their ability to change color in response to their surroundings. The colors of the blossoms are influenced by genetics, soil pH, season, and blossom maturity.
Intense blue blooms emerge on hydrangeas when cultivated in acidic soil (pH 4.55.5); pink to red blossoms appear on hydrangeas when grown in more alkaline soil (pH 67+). Cut flowers from immature blossoms retain their green color, however mature stems and flowers taken from pots after their first blush will take on deeper tones.
The same plants also produce a variety of flower colors throughout the year: pastels in spring, jewel tones in summer’s long days, and muted earth tones in fall. Year-round, producers in tropical climates offer summer colors.
No matter the soil, white cultivars typically retain their color. White hydrangea blooms can be colored by adding dye to the floral solution or painted using floral spray paints. These are ethylene sensitive as well. In fact, cultivators can get the plants ready for cutting by exposing them to ethylene when the blooms are still in the bud stage. The leaves begin to fall off as a result, but the still-forming blossoms are encouraged to grow more quickly.
While most stems marketed as cut flowers have no aroma, certain Hydrangea garden cultivars have a light, sweet scent.
With just about any method, including air, silica gel, glycerin, pressing, and even microwave treatments, hydrangea stems dry wonderfully.
Colors: Solid and bi-color tones are available in the following hues: blue, purple, pink, green, white, and ivory.
Special Care
Pick cut flowers with florets that are fully opened and stems that are straight and sturdy. After being recut, the leaves and sepals are placed in a commercial hydrating solution until they are turgid before being transferred to water containing a floral preservative. Because hydrangea flowers are sensitive to minerals, always use soft or distilled water and put them in glass or plastic containers rather than metal. Because these water-loving plants can develop botrytis, it is advisable to use a biocide and keep buckets full and clean. Hydrangea petals can be misted with water to help them last longer in the vase, but make sure no huge drops remain to support microorganisms.
Use cut flowers as soon as possible and stay away from storing them at 34F for more than a day or two (1C). Avert exposure to ethylene.
Choose compact, robust plants that are free of disease or pests if you want blooming plants (especially aphids). The majority of the bracts should be colored, and the flower heads should be fully developed. Keep in mind that the soil conditions of the grower affect the bloom colors. The flowers’ primary colors cannot be changed, though they will get stronger as they get older.
Display arrangements outdoors, particularly in bright, indirect light. Leaf drop can occur when plants are kept in the dark, even for a short time. Use soft or distilled water, especially on plants with blue flowers, and keep the soil continually moist. Their lifespan will be shortened by the strain of withering, drying out, and then being rejuvenated again. Additionally, keep plants free from ethylene exposure and drafts.
Fun Facts:
The existence of hydrangea plants predates that of humans! North American stems that have undergone fossilization date back 4560 million years. They have been grown for thousands of years in Asia, and ancient Japan revered them as a sacred plant.
In the 18th century, hydrangea plants from both Asia and America reached Europe. The plant was given its Western name by the renowned Swedish botanist Carl Linnaeus, who combined the Greek terms “hydor” (which means water) and “angeion” (meaning vessel). Some academics claim that Linnaeus was inspired by the plant’s urn-shaped seed capsules, while others assert that he gave the Hydrangea its name because it loves moisture and functions as a water vessel. We have no hints from Linnaeus himself.
The species epithet, which means having large leaves, is Latin. Because of its large leaves’ high water requirements, Hydrangea stems quickly droop if they are not maintained properly hydrated.
Individual florets can be dried using a desiccant like silica gel or sand, pressing, microwaving, air drying, or any of these methods. Whole stems that still have their bloom heads on can be dried using a desiccant, glycerin, or even air. The most realistic and long-lasting result will come from glycerin preservation, but the petals will turn bronze. Air-drying while keeping the stems in water will help preserve color but result in a more delicate final product. For the classic air drying method, stems can also be hung upside down.
The pollen from hydrangeas does not cause allergy symptoms, according to the American Academy of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology.
The hydrangea plant is a veritable gold mine of bioactive substances. While the potential of some has just recently been realized, others have served humans well for generations.
The leaves and flowers emit hydrangin, which is used in sunscreens and fabric brighteners, and the roots and bark generate chemicals that are beneficial for healing. Oh, and it contains traces of cyanide as well! Not enough to cause death, but enough to make you, your children, your dogs, and every digestive system in their bodies deeply regret eating the bouquet.
Native Americans and early American doctors employed hydrangea root to treat kidney stones, pneumonia, and urinary tract issues. They applied the bark on sore muscles and burns as a poultice.
According to a 2003 study published in Bioscience, Biotechnology, and Biochemistry, milk thistle and turmeric taken together are not as effective an antioxidant for the liver as hydrangea root.
Future therapies for diabetes, malaria, and a variety of autoimmune diseases are being investigated using a number of hydrangea extracts.
The hydrangea may stand either profoundly held emotion, healing, or callousness in the Victorian “Language of Flowers.”
Since an ancient monarch used Hydrangea flowers to express these feelings to ladies of the court, they may represent remorse or appreciation in Japan.
The Hydrangea now claims its own family, the Hydrangeaceae, after first being categorized as a species in the Saxifragaceae family. Its plants are linked to flowering currants, astilbe, and viburnum.
How do hydrangeas bloom?
Popular shrubs called hydrangeas have vibrant flowers that bloom from the summer into the fall. They often flower in blue, purple, and pink hues, while some varieties also come in white, green, and red. The majority of hydrangea shrubs thrive in partial shade and are simple to grow in Zones 3–9.
Are hydrangeas a type of plant or flower?
Hydrangeas have huge bloom heads and exude an old-fashioned elegance. How to plant and take care of beautiful floral bushes is explained in our hydrangea growing guide. Additionally, learn the answers to frequently asked questions like “why aren’t my hydrangeas blossoming this year?”
About Hydrangeas
These elegant plants are simple to grow, withstand nearly any sort of soil, and produce an abundance of blossoms that are unmatched in the world of shrubs for their stunning flowers. Clear blue, vivid pink, frosty white, lavender, and rose blossoms sometimes grow on the same plant, enticing us with their colors.
From container gardens to shrub borders to group plantings, hydrangeas are great for a variety of garden locations. Breeders seem to give us more possibilities every year, and gardeners have countless expectations for bloom size and color. Varieties abound. Pay attention to the species listed below to get an idea of how your hydrangea will develop as some require different maintenance. The joys you experience will be enhanced when you know what to expect.
Enjoy this tribute to hydrangea beauty and read our guide below to discover how to grow hydrangeas.
Where to Plant Hydrangeas
- The majority of hydrangeas like fertile, moisture-rich soils that drain well. Compost can help improve bad soil.
- Hydrangeas typically prefer some sun. In an ideal world, they would receive full sun in the morning and then some afternoon shade to avoid the intense midday sun. The Bigleaf Hydrangea (H. macrophylla), with its huge, prone-to-wilting leaves, is a prime example of this. Some kinds can withstand more direct sunlight.
- Depending on the kind, place hydrangeas anywhere between 3 and 10 feet apart. Plants should always be spaced according to their anticipated mature size!
When to Plant Hydrangeas
- The optimum season to plant hydrangeas is in the fall, followed by spring. The cooler shoulder seasons are the ideal times to plant shrubs because they will have plenty of time to build a strong root system before the intense heat of summer or the bitter cold of winter.
- In the early morning or late afternoon, plant the shrubs. The plant is less prone to experience heat stress from direct sunshine because it is typically cooler.
How to Plant Hydrangeas
- Gently remove the hydrangea from its container and examine the root ball. Snip off any rotten or dead sections, and if the plant is very root-bound, pry the roots free.
- Make a hole that is two to three times as big and as deep as the root ball. The top of the planting hole should be level with the base of the plant, which is where the stem joins the earth.
- After placing the plant in the hole, add enough soil to fill it halfway. generously hydrate. Fill the remaining space in the hole with soil once the water has been absorbed.
- once more, thoroughly rinse.
How to Grow Hydrangeas from Cuttings
Cuttings of hydrangeas can be easily grown. They easily take root, and the process is a wonderful teaching tool for propagation. This is how you do it:
- Find a branch on a mature hydrangea that is fresh growth and has not flowered. In comparison to older growth, new growth will appear lighter in color, and the stem won’t be as firm.
- Make a horizontal incision 4 to 5 inches down from the branch’s tip. Make sure your cutting has at least three to four pairs of leaves.
- Trim the cutting’s lowest pair of leaves so that they are flush with the stem. If you can afford to remove more than one pair of leaves, do so. Roots develop more readily from these leaf nodes. But make sure to leave at least two pairs of leaves at the cutting’s tip.
- Remove the tip half of any leaves that are still pretty large by cutting them in half. This keeps the leaves from slamming into the sides of the plastic bag you’ll later use to cover the cutting (to keep the humidity up).
- (Optional) Sprinkle rooting hormone and a plant antifungal powder on the stem’s leafless area (both available at a local hardware or garden store). This will promote roots and deter decay.
- Prepare a small pot and put moistened potting soil inside. The cutting should be planted in the ground, buried down to the first remaining pair of leaves. Lightly water the area surrounding the stem to close any air spaces.
- Wrap a plastic bag loosely around the entire pot. To prevent the cutting’s leaves from rotting, make sure the bag is not touching them. The bag can be supported by chopsticks or other such objects to keep it off the leaves.
- Put the pot in a warm location that is protected from the wind and sun.
- Only rewater your cutting after the top layer of soil is dry after checking on it every few days to make sure it isn’t decaying. In a few weeks, hopefully, the cutting will start to root! If you feel resistance when you gently tug on the cutting, roots have grown.
Watering
- Make sure hydrangeas get enough water for the first year or two after planting and throughout any droughts.
- Over the course of the growing season, water at a rate of 1 inch per week. Three times a week of heavy watering is preferable to shallow watering. Root growth is promoted by this.
- All varieties of hydrangeas benefit from constant moisture, but bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas need more water.
- If the soil is too dry, the leaves will wilt, and there won’t be enough moisture for the flowers to bloom.
- To water thoroughly while keeping moisture off the flowers and leaves, use a soaker hose.
- The best time to water hydrangeas is in the morning to protect them from disease and get them ready for the heat of the day.
- Under your hydrangeas, spread organic mulch to help keep the soil cool and moist, gradually add nutrients, and enhance soil texture.
Fertilizing
You might not need to fertilize hydrangeas if your soil is rich. When fertilizer is applied in excess, blossoms are sacrificed in favor of green growth. A soil test is the most effective tool for determining your fertility requirements.
Apply fertilizer according to the type of hydrangeas you have. Every variety has varied requirements and will profit from applying fertilizer at various times.
- Several mild fertilizer applications in March, May, and June are beneficial for bigleaf hydrangeas.
- Two applications in April and June work best for oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas.
- The only time smooth hydrangea plants require fertilizing is in the late winter.
Winter Protection
- Cover plants with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw in the fall, at least 18 inches deep. If at all feasible, create cages out of chicken wire or snow fencing and cover the entire plant, including the tip, with the cages. (Avoid using maple leaves; they have a tendency to mat after becoming wet and may suffocate the plant.)
How to Prune a Hydrangea
Many of the queries from readers concern hydrangea trimming. It makes sense that it’s unclear because it relies on the hydrangea kind. Fortunately, identifying which type you have makes determining the best pruning strategy simple. Discover the fundamentals below, then read more about pruning different varieties of hydrangea here.
Pruning Common Hydrangeas
The Bigleaf cultivar of Hydrangea macrophylla is the most popular garden hydrangea shrub. (For more, see below.)
Hydrangeas with large leaves, such as Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), Oakleaf (H. quercifolia), Mountain (H. serrata), and Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris), are pruned AFTER the summer blooms have passed. On stems from the previous season, these kinds bloom (“old wood).
- Avoid pruning after August 1 since flower buds actually grow in the late summer and bloom the next season.
- Dead wood should only be removed in the fall or very early spring.
- To stimulate branching and fullness, trim one or two of the oldest stems by cutting them all the way to the ground.
- Pruning the stems all the way to the base is necessary if the plant is old, neglected, or injured. For the following season, you’ll lose the flowers, but you’ll also revive the plant for subsequent ones.
- The huge Mopheads should not be deadheaded (faded flowers removed); instead, you should leave them over the winter and trim them back in the early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). Deadheading Lacecaps is OK; simply trim down to the second set of leaves below the bloom head.
- Avoid pruning unless it is absolutely required while growing H. macrophylla (and H. serrata) cultivars in Zones 4 and 5, and then only after blooming. If not, merely remove dead stems in the spring.
Pruning Other Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas called Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) are clipped BEFORE flower buds develop. On stems from the current season, these kinds blossom (“new wood).
- When the plant is dormant in the late winter, prune. The plant will therefore grow new buds in the spring that will result in blossoms even if the winter kills the buds.
- In general, avoid pruning to “shape the bush” and just remove dead branches.