Allow me to offer catmint (also known as Nepeta) to you if you’re seeking for a perennial that has long-lasting blooms, can withstand heat, is pest and disease resistant, and is simple to grow. I continue to include this top performer on my list of the best drought-tolerant and deer-resistant plants despite years of testing “plants are a must. It occupies a central place in my beautiful landscape and adds interest throughout the year. It has lovely gray-green foliage that appears in April in orderly, tidy heaps. The shrub practically erupts by May with a profusion of delicate lavender-blue blooms. The plant continues to display an abundance of color well into late summer or early fall after the initial flush of flowers. Even after the blossoms have faded, the floral show is enhanced by colorful calyces that match the blossoms’ color. If the leaves is left standing through the winter, it turns a pleasant soft silvery gray tint.
This herbaceous perennial belongs to the Lamiaceae family of plants, which also contains gigantic hyssop, bee balm, rosemary, and lavender. These plants have opposite leaves, two-lipped blooms, square stems, and aromatic foliage in addition to other characteristics in common. Many individuals mistake catmint for catnip (Nepeta cataria). Catnip and catmint are closely related, although catnip has a stronger scent and less decorative value than catmint.
Catmint like team games. Catmint is a fantastic alternative if you adore the traditional pairing of lavender and roses but find that lavender is too temperamental to grow in this location. Catmint can be used to coat the bare skin similarly to lavender “rose bushes’ branches. A lovely contrast to the vibrant tones of the roses is provided by the plant’s cool-toned foliage and blossoms.
Catmint complements the majority of other hues nicely, but it looks especially lovely when combined with hues from the red to blue color range. Irises look wonderful when they are grown in my own garden. It complements the medium lavender-blue iris “Crater Lake” and the blue-violet tones of the iris “Swingtown” in particular. The vertical outlines and deeper lavender hues of the Allium cultivars “Gladiator,” “Giganteum,” or “Purple Sensation” contrast pleasantly with the mounded shape. Catmint blends wonderfully with the purple foliage of Heuchera ‘Plum Pudding’ or the flowing burgundy foliage of Japanese Maple ‘Garnet’ as spring transitions into summer. Another excellent ally for catmint is ‘Purple Ruffles’ basil, which is also tasty! Catmint goes well with yellow-flowering plants like Hemerocallis “Happy Returns,” Achillea “Coronation Gold,” or Coreopsis “Early Sunrise.”
The hybrid Nepeta x faassenii produces the most well-liked catmint cultivars that are farmed for commercial purposes in this nation. The flowers have the name of Dutch nurseryman J. H. Faassen, whose nursery this hybrid initially emerged. N. x Faassenii flowers are sterile, thus deadheading is not necessary to stop them from self-seeding.
While the N. X faassenii family’s members are sterile, some closely related species, including the ones listed below, are fertile and may require deadheading to stop reseeding:
- Russian cat mint (N. sibirica) Plant that is erect and tall (two to three feet), with broad green leaves and deep blue blooms.
- Asian catmint (N. subsessilis)
- This catmint kind loves damp soil over the other species. Although it can tolerate direct sunlight, it prefers some shade.
- Orange catmint (N. govaniana)
- This rare species, which is indigenous to the Himalayas, has yellow blooms that emerge later in the summer.
- Nepeta with veins (N. nervosa)
- This plant is indigenous to India, grows one to two feet tall, and has leaves that are three to four inches long with strong veins.
- Turkish catmint (N. parnassica)
- This catmint, which grows to an astounding four to six feet tall and wide, is more frequently found in European gardens than in those in this country.
The Chicago Botanic Garden compared 36 catmints between 1999 and 2006 with the aim of identifying exceptional individuals in terms of their attractive features, disease and pest resistance, cultural adaptation, and winter hardiness (the botanical garden is located in zone 5b). Based on their heavy flower output over a lengthy bloom period, the following four best performers of the 22 highly rated catmints obtained five-star exceptional ratings:
- ‘Joanna Reed’ plants are 24 inches tall and 48 inches broad, with lavender-blue flowers. It bears the name of the deceased Pennsylvania gardener who found it.
Should I reduce catmint throughout the winter?
In many places, catmint dies back with the frost, and the dead growth needs to be removed in order to make room for the spring’s new, fresh foliage. Depending on the climate where you are, there are different times to do this. It is preferable to wait until the spring thaw to prune catmint in regions with long, hard winters since the dead growth can act as insulation from the cold.
When a plant has gone dormant or has died back due to the cold in a milder region, it is recommended to cut the entire plant back in the fall. Because division will occur with the winter pruning, keep an eye out during the growth season for indications that the plant needs to be divided, such as less blooming.
Use precise pruning shears to cut the entire plant back to the ground, then get rid of the stems. Using a sharp spade, divide the root ball into numerous pieces, each with an equal number of roots and stems, if the plant has to be divided. Place the divisions in a bed with wet, quick-draining soil that is sunny or lightly shaded. Larger catmint kinds, like Six Hills Giant (Nepeta x “Six Hills Giant”), should be planted 3 feet apart, while more common varieties should be planted 1 1/2 to 2 feet apart.
Catmint: is it an invasive species?
They believed it would entice cats to prey on rodents hiding about the farm or house. However, current research suggests that catmint may not just be discovered around the foundations of historic European homes and barns. According to a recent USDA study, termites are unlikely to dig tunnels through soil where catmint flourishes. Naturally, a moat made of this plant would prevent these pests from penetrating the wood of a hut or cottage.
Termites, mosquitoes, and cockroaches are all repelled by the same chemical that draws cats. Nepeta cataria, also referred to as common catnip, is a plant that contains it. Nepetalactone, a terpene found in these herbs, has been shown to be several times more effective at repelling insects than harmful DEET. To influence a cat, the plants release oils that must be breathed rather than consumed. This explains why cats are so prone to rolling around in catmint plants. More volatile oils are released from the leaves when it is bruised. Cats can detect airborne odors down to one part per billion.
Not all felines react the same way to these herbs. In fact, roughly 30% of household cats might not even respond to catmint. It’s a hereditary reaction that can vary in intensity from person to person and is inherited. Strangely, until they are at least 3 months old, extremely young kittens rarely react to nepetalactone.
There are a dizzying variety of plants in the genus Nepeta. The large invasive plant known as real catmint is described above. It grows to a height of three feet and bears few white blooms. It usually only appears in herb gardens and has very nothing to recommend it in terms of aesthetics. Due to its hardiness up to Zone 3, it is a fantastic choice for gardens in the north.
Through natural cross-pollination and human breeding, numerous species have been introduced into gardens over time and transformed into new varieties. The outcome is a wide variety of garden-worthy catmints that are much better prospects for your yard than the usual kind. Keep in mind that these immigrants won’t be as resistant to the cold as the species is. The majority, but not all, are sterile, preventing plants from spreading outward in the absence of viable seed. Simply deadhead the flowers after they are spent to stop seed formation in order to completely avoid self sowing.
The Six Hills Giant, which stands 3 feet tall, is the most impressive version. Late in the summer, foot-long spikes of dark violet blooms appear on lush, spherical plants. It is generally accessible and a superb option for novice growers.
Nepeta racemosa “Walker’s Low,” which has a shorter size, is an excellent edging plant. A gentle carpet of blue fills up the front of a border. It only grows to a height of 18 inches but produces dense clusters of vividly blue flower spikes. Walkers Low and Six Hills are resilient to Zone 5.
Catmints typically grow best in sandy, well-drained soils, although they will grow almost anywhere that isn’t moist. Late in the growing season, they can become rangy, and regular trimming is beneficial to prevent the taller forms from flopping in the rain.
Today, catmint merits another look as a natural pest deterrent for eco-friendly dwellings. wherever there is a chance of infestation, plant. Kittie won’t overdose, though, as cats all seem to have a sense of proportion.
Is perennial catmint a hardy plant?
Catmint is a low-maintenance perennial herbaceous plant that swarms the garden with pollinators. It contains clusters of fragrant lavender-blue flowers that resemble lavender and are sweet-smelling. Learn how to cultivate catmint, often referred to as nepeta, and add this perennial with a protracted bloom period to your garden.
There is a functional similarity between catmint and lavender. The plants are closely related and are members of the Lamiaceae family, which is a large family.
A perennial flower that grows well with other cottage garden flowers is catmint. Due to its moderate growth rate, it is frequently grown as a companion plant for roses, planted as an underplanting.
Catmint plants are a great example of a perennial because they frequently come back to the garden year after year.
Perennials typically don’t bloom as abundantly as some of the garden’s annual flowering plants.
Every year, perennials typically bloom for two to four weeks, with some having a second, less prolific flowering period later in the season.
With a little attention in the middle of the growing season to encourage the second flush of flowers, this perennial can bloom from early spring into early October. It is a perennial flowering plant with numerous garden advantages.
Must I reduce my catmint intake?
Catmint (Nepeta spp. and cvs., USDA Hardiness Zones 38) has a way of lifting my mood. This plant impresses me because it can stand out in even the most hostile circumstances, whether it’s along a cobbled walk in England or in the median planters that line Chicago boulevards. Over the course of several weeks in the summer, the beautiful lavender-blue blossoms appear to shine just as brilliantly in the garden as they do above a hard expanse of concrete and macadam. The easiest catmint delight for me, however, is seeing my cat Boo fall prey to its seductive charm.
Despite the fact that some varieties have been misused to the point of ubiquity, I have a lasting affection for catmint. And it was because of this affection that I wanted to try as many different kinds as I could in order to determine which ones were the greatest. It’s true that when catmints are mentioned, many gardening buddies scrunch up their faces. Now, while I freely acknowledge that I won’t mind if catmint and Knock Out roses (Rosa ‘Radrazz’, Zones 49) never see another planting, I’m not quite ready to give up on this wonderful collection of hardy perennials. This is particularly true of a few particular varieties that stand out for their durability, seemingly endless blooms, and attractive leaves.
Top performers
presence to dominate any garden and will cheerfully take all the sunlight you can throw at it.
I believe the catmint “Six Hills Giant” (N. “Six Hills Giant”) is the standard by which all other catmints should be measured. The word “giant” is used to indicate the massive plant size and the extravagant floral display. Long flower spikes attract attention starting in late spring. However, like many catmints, ‘Six Hills Giant’ may start to relax or even recline a few weeks into the flowering period. This was true in our trial. After the initial flower flush, don’t be afraid to whack it back to promote the growth of new, stronger stems. Although it may be difficult to consider giving up blooms, there will be plenty more to come. For the ideal display, place “Six Hills Giant” next to virtually anything pink in the garden.
Select Blue (N. faassenii ‘Select Blue’), chosen for its blue flowers, is a superior addition to the group of long-blooming catmints. From midspring to midfall, I don’t think we experienced a day without flowers. The flowers are actually lavender with a darker calyx that gives them a swarthy appearance, despite claims that they are a darker blue than the straight species (N. faassenii). Late into the season, the low, mounded habit remained compact without shearing. For its tenacity and tolerance to drought, the xeriscape specialists at High Country Gardens in New Mexico advise “Select Blue,” and we can vouch for its impressive performance in typical garden settings as well.
Getting down to the nitty-gritty of catmint
Catmints are tough, free-flowering perennials that typically like full sun and well-drained soils for growth. However, some are well-liked for xeriscaping because, once established, they can withstand drought. When lavenders are not hardy, they are often referred to as “poor man’s lavender (Lavandula spp. and cvs., Zones 59), which is an acceptable analogy. Here are some additional details concerning this category of plants that you should be aware of.
Catmints are incredibly floriferous from early spring to the end of the growing season. Their unique tubular, two-lipped blossoms identify them as belonging to the mint family. Even when the flowers have faded, colorful calyces still improve the floral arrangement.
Through slicing off a piece of an established clump with a spade, you can proliferate by spring division. There should be numerous young shoots and a sizable root system in each fresh division. Catmint cuttings will take root quickly if they are cut from healthy shoots before the flower buds appear. The cuttings should take several weeks to root if you place them in a moist medium like sand or a peat-perlite mixture.
An essential oil found in the leaves and stems causes cats to exhibit a range of behavioral reactions. Eating the leaves may have calming effects, while rubbing, licking, or biting them creates a momentary high. According to all accounts, cats are especially intoxicated by catmint, or catnip (N. cataria*). You unfortunately have limited options for preventing cats from mauling (and occasionally squashing) your plants. Although most plants will recover fast following an attack, barriers may be your only alternative.
Although Japanese catmints (N. subsessilis and cvs.) prefer moist soils and don’t mind partial shade, wet or soggy areas can be the death knell for most catmints. Catmints frequently appear on lists of deer-resistant plants because they are rarely troubled by disease or pests.
It’s simple to ignore the leaves when there are so many blooms to catch your attention. Many catmint species are known for their fuzzy, gray-green leaves, although some, like Siberian catmint (N. sibirica), have huge, green leaves instead. Finding it difficult to tell if something is catmint? Another distinguishing characteristic of the mint family is square stems.
High fertility merely promotes floppy behavior. Simply shear the older stems down to the young leaves coming from the crown when stems start to flop over and flower output begins to decline. Plants that have been sheared will recover in a few weeks and resume their natural appearance.
Catmint should only be pruned in the spring or once you are certain that the growing season has ended, as it can be ugly in the winter. Even late in the growing season, cutting it back stimulates it to resprout, and the new growth is cold-sensitive. Any potential winter damage is avoided by waiting until spring.