Nowadays, not many flowers are cultivated from seeds, but zinnias are worthwhile. These simple summer annuals reward the grower with colorful flowers up to six inches across that complement both urban and rural gardens and make lovely bouquets.
My summer flower garden last year got off to a late start, with my zinnia seeds not being planted until July. May or June is the suggested time so that plants can establish themselves before the sweltering summer heat.
I went to my local nursery and purchased many packages of zinnia seeds as I hadn’t placed a catalog order. But I also bought some zinnia seedlings in the hopes that they would produce a yield earlier.
To my amazement, the nursery seedlings only blossomed 10 days before my seed-grown plants did, despite having a lead start. Although the blooms in each group were beautiful, the plants grown from seeds cost a fraction of what I paid for nursery plants, and the seeds produced hundreds of plants—many more than I needed.
Zinnias are available in a huge range of shapes and sizes. The huge, cactus-flowered blossoms with mop-headed daisy-like heads are my favorites. The tiny lilliput (pompon) species, whose thickly packed petals resemble parrot feathers, is another favorite of mine.
The Haageana or Mexicana variety features 1 1/2-inch flowers with pointed petals bordered with a contrasting shade, as opposed to the more formal dahlia-flowered zinnias, which have huge blooms with flat petals.
It’s laughably simple to grow zinnias. Children frequently perform on par with skilled gardeners. Contrary to petunias or snapdragons, the seeds are huge, making it easy to seed them and give them the proper spacing.
Make a furrow in the prepared soil that is about 1 inch deep. The seeds should be deposited four inches apart. To prevent the seeds from being washed away, cover with one-eighth inch of soil and water lightly. Till the seeds sprout, which typically takes four to eight days, keep the soil moist. Transplant any surplus seedlings to bare places or pots after thinned to a distance of 10 inches.
Mildew is the main issue with zinnias, especially where I live near the shore. Planting zinnias early enough in the summer to allow them to bloom before late September, when the days start to get shorter and the plants get more damp at night, can lessen its effects. It’s also a good idea to water the roots solely, leaving the foliage dry. Spray a fungicide, such as Funginex, on the leaves at the first indication of a white powder coating them.
I experimented with Z. augustifolia one summer (also called zinnia classic, Z. linearias, or thin-leaved zinnia). Although its 1 1/2-inch golden-orange semidouble blooms were not as eye-catching as modern hybrids’, the plants did have one enticing quality that made them stand out: they did not develop mildew, even in my humid climate.
Now I find that the Z. elegans and Z. augustifolia hybridizers at Burpee have produced a pink, 2 1/2-inch bloom that is supposedly mildew-resistant. In the flower garden this summer, I can’t wait to test this new type, Rose Pinwheel.
I’ll also plant pink cosmos, pink statice, rose cleome, blue salvia (S. farinacea Victoria), rose shades of strawflower, and gloriosa daisies around it. Rose Pinwheel’s gold centers should compliment the gold daisies well, and blue is a great complementary hue in general.
I’ll start the strawflowers in flats a few weeks prior to planting them in the garden because they take longer to flower. The seeds for all the other plants will be planted right in the garden. Although blue salvia is simple to cultivate from seed, it takes several months before it starts to bloom, making it a summer flower that I typically buy from the nursery.
All of my plants will be cultivated next to soaker hoses so that I may use water as effectively as possible. My irrigation system is basic, despite the fact that some irrigation systems are fairly complex (with computer timers and multivalve stations).
I use 150 feet of soaker hose connected to the garden hose for each tier of my garden where annuals are sown. Twice a week, I let the water run gently for about five hours. I may decide whether to apply more or less by keeping an eye on the soil’s moisture level.
Several well-known zinnia strains can be acquired at garden centers for gardeners who like the speed and convenience of seedlings.
The biggest is State Fair, a dependable favorite that has been around for years and is dahlia-flowered. On 12- to 18-inch bushes, the Peter Pan, Pulchino, and Cut-and-Come-Again zinnias yield three-inch flattened blooms. Thumbelina, the smallest zinnia, is adorable but only blooms for a little period of time, making it seem hardly worth the effort.
Zinnias are a favorite of Terry Hartog, who grows thousands of bedding plants for his Vintage Nursery in Lakewood. Because of its relatively big blossom size and compact growth, he prefers a mass planting of Peter Pan that is surrounded by the white vinca Little Bright Eye. The bottom leaves of zinnias can grow unattractive, thus the vinca conceals them.
According to Terry, both vinca and zinnias are suitable for hot climates since they can withstand the heat.
The best assortment of zinnias may be found in catalogues like Burpee Gardens, Warminster, PA 18974 (with zinnias on the cover), and Park Seed, Greenwood, SC 29647-0001. The majority of neighborhood garden centers also carry a range of zinnia seeds.
Can zinnia seeds still be planted in July?
Zinnia seeds can still be planted now for late summer color that will endure until the first frost. Additionally, they produce stunning cut flowers with a lengthy vase life.
Even the most inexperienced gardener should grow zinnias because they are one of the tried-and-true garden flowers. My first memories of gardening are when I first encountered zinnias. The bush beans and tomatoes set aside for zinnias were a constant source of conflict. My favorite annual flower is still the zinnia, and they now have a prime location next to my back deck where I can enjoy them in the warm weather.
Growing zinnias is simple; they prefer full sunlight and well-drained soil. They may be planted directly in the garden or transferred. Plant them in a peat pot that can be placed directly into the garden or planting bed if you decide to have a head start and want to transplant so as to avoid disturbing the roots.
There are many different types of zinnias. They come in sizes ranging from 6 inches to nearly 4 feet, from dwarf to enormous. The flower heads are available in many different forms, including single and double flowers, spidery shapes, and domes.
The amazing variety of hues is the best feature. The palest pastel hues to the brightest hues are all available in zinnias. They come in solid, multicolored, striped, and specked patterns.
Dead heading zinnias is advised by Michigan State University Extension to ensure flowering from early summer through frost. Zinnias are encouraged to continue performing by dead heading throughout the season. But because zinnias fatigue, I advise putting them in succession every two weeks. I intend to plant in succession beginning in late May and continuing until the first week of July, roughly. This ensures spectacular blooms through the end of September. It’s not too late to plant some zinnia seeds for color that will persist through the first frost in the late summer.
In addition to their amazing garden display, zinnias make fantastic cut flowers and may be used anywhere you need a splash of color. Many zinnia cultivars can stay in a vase for seven to twelve days. The mainstay of the farmer’s market is zinnias as well. Flower farmers would tell that zinnias are one of the most profitable flowers to grow due to their vibrant colors, ease of maintenance, and extended vase life.
The zinnia variants “Benary’s Giant” and “Cut and Come Again” are two of my favorites. Their surnames are biographical. On tall stems that stand between 40 and 52 inches in height, “Benary’s Giant” has huge blooms and dazzling flowers. Cutting the stem just above a bud junction will encourage “Cut and Come Again” to produce continuously throughout the growing season, as will all zinnias.
Can you plant zinnias in the summer?
Most people are unaware that zinnias may be planted into the late summer and enjoyed until the fall, despite the fact that they are a popular addition to spring cutting gardens. Zinnias grow well in hot climates and are simple to grow from seed.
How late may zinnia seeds be sown?
Look no further than zinnias if you’re looking to plant flowers for brilliant summer color. There are so many different zinnia kinds that it’s no wonder they’re so well-liked as cut flowers.
Zinnias can be planted outside in May, but they can also be planted indoors from February through April. Simply pick a productive, weed-free place, whether it be a hole in a fence or a patch of bare ground, and start planting.
As soon as they blossom, you may anticipate a riot of summer color that will last until the first fall frosts.
Look no further than zinnias if you’re looking to plant flowers for brilliant summer color.
Step 3
In order to identify what you are growing, label the space and thoroughly water the seeds. As seedlings start to grow, keep the soil moist but not wet and cover with a cloche.
Zinnias for pollinators
Pollinating insects, especially hoverflies, are drawn to zinnias. Grow single-flowered kinds that don’t restrict pollinator access so they can get to the pollen and nectar.
In July, can I still sow flower seeds?
July is simply too hot to plant anything in many areas of the country. You must wait until the fall to add anything to your garden in regions like the Southeast and the coastal West. However, July is a fantastic opportunity for gardeners in specific parts of the Northeast, Midwest, and Pacific Northwest to sow quickly growing wildflowers and veggies to extend your season. Your next opportunity to plant from seed will probably be in August or September if you live in a hot climate.
Wildflowers For July Planting
The month of July is a perfect time to plant quick-blooming wildflowers in your garden, such as alyssum, red poppies, zinnias, and cosmos. If planted in July, these wildflowers will thrive and bloom in a matter of weeks, giving your garden plenty of time to host an end-of-season display. These wildflowers are a terrific way to fill up bare patches in your perennial or wildflower gardens and provide plenty of nectar for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds at the end of the season.
Is it still possible to plant flowers throughout the summer?
I had a variety of roles as a founding worker at Gardener’s Supply over the years. I currently run my own business, which is called Johnnie Brook Creative. A huge vegetable garden, a seasonal greenhouse, a cutting garden, perennial gardens, a rock garden, a shade garden, berry plantings, numerous container plants, and a meadow garden are among the gardens surrounding my Richmond, Vermont, home. The garden is the only place I would rather be. Check out this Garden Gate magazine video interview from January 2021 if you’re interested in learning more.
The ideal garden of perennials. That image is not difficult to visualize. In my opinion, it is a traditional English border with iris, lupine, and poppies that blooms continuously through the fall in a kaleidoscope of hues and forms including foxgloves, roses, delphinium, dianthus, hollyhocks, lilies, and more.
The fact is, it’s practically impossible for me to realize that idea in my own garden because I don’t reside in the British Isles or the Pacific Northwest. The majority of American perennial borders are in bloom from late May to early July, a beautiful but brief period of 5 or 6 weeks. Most perennial gardens are past their prime by late July, and for the rest of the season, they appear very drab.
Fortunately, a lot of perennials, such as coneflower, asters, mums, Russian sage, cimicifuga, sedum, rudbeckia, and phlox, bloom in the late summer. But I’ve discovered that the actual secret to summer-long color is annuals.
The majority of annuals, unlike many perennials, survive in the heat of the summer and, once they begin, continue to bloom well into early fall. You may develop annual-perennial pairings with a little forethought that will keep your flower gardens looking fantastic for a full 5 or 6 months.
Before planting zinnia seeds, should I soak them?
If you’re raising zinnias from seed for the first time this year, you might still have some concerns. Here, I’ll address them for you.
How do you germinate zinnia seeds fast?
To hasten the germination of zinnia seeds, keep the seed trays warm. The biggest effect will be made by heated mats and a warm environment. Zinnia seeds can germinate in as little as five days when the soil is 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, the ideal temperature for germination.
Should I soak zinnia seeds before planting?
Before sowing, zinnia seeds don’t require soaking. The seeds of zinnias are designed to sprout quickly when exposed to water since they are warm-season annual flowers that are indigenous to hot climates like Mexico and the southwest of the United States. The seeds only need to be sown and watered for germination to begin.
How long do zinnia seeds take to germinate?
The normal germination time for zinnias is 5 to 10 days. Seeds sown in trays with the soil kept warm at 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit using heat mats will germinate more quickly than seeds sown in cold soil, which could take up to three weeks.
Do zinnia seeds need light to germinate?
Zinnia seeds should be placed with 1/4 inch of dirt on top of them because they don’t require light to germinate. The seeds will require intense light in the form of a shop light or grow light as they begin to germinate and break the soil’s surface.
At what temperature do zinnias germinate?
Zinnia seeds should be germinated at 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. The soil will reach these temperatures with the help of a heat mat put beneath the seed trays. In soil that is colder than 70 degrees, the seeds will still germinate, but it will take longer.
Do zinnia seeds need cold stratification?
Cold stratification, which involves chilling seeds prior to sowing, is not necessary for zinnias. The seeds of zinnias are designed to germinate without being exposed to cold because they are warm-season annuals that are native to hot climates.
In June, can I still plant zinnias?
Even if your plants for the following crops—beans, squash, chard, carrots, and basil—are already established in the ground and flourishing, June is a great time to start a second crop so that it will be ready for a bountiful late summer harvest when the initial crops of these essentials have completed.
Every month I normally start some seeds, and by late June I’m done with the summer-harvesting crops. I sow seeds for fall crops in July and August, including several kinds of lettuce and mesclun blends, spinach, radishes, kale, peas, broccoli raab, braising mix, carrots, and Asian delicacies like mild mustards, stirfry mix, and pak choi.
Flowers can be planted in June along with later harvests! Increase the planting of annuals like marigolds, sunflowers, cosmos, zinnias, four o’clocks, nasturtiums, etc. that typically fade by late summer. You’ll have a wonderful second flush of bloom this way, and you may harvest armfuls for Labor Day!
Starting seeds for perennials and biennials that will bloom the following spring is also a good idea in June and July. I put seeds in a safe area and then transfer seedlings in the fall so they can overwinter and blossom the following spring, giving me a nice spring welcome in the garden.
What to sow:
While it is true that plants that bear fruit, such as tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, must be planted now, many, if not most, summer crops will develop even faster from seeds planted in the early summer, when the soil is thoroughly warmed up and teeming with life. You’ll be shocked by how quickly seeds sprout and expand rapidly.
Plant cucumber, bean, edamame, summer and winter squash, pumpkin, melons, beet, carrot, chard, and scallions seeds without hesitation. In a location with strong light but out of the direct, hot sun, plant a crop of “cut and come again” salad mix, braising mix, mild mustards, and any of our mesclun blends. Plant heat- and sun-loving herbs liberally, keeping the seed beds well-moisturized. Examples include basil, marjoram, chives, oregano, thyme, and sage. To enhance your enjoyment of summer afternoon gardening, don’t forget to put some fragrant scented basils in containers.