Plants like geraniums or Pelagonium require little care and reward gardeners with a long blooming season from early spring to summer. Depending on the cultivar, vivid flower colors and foliage are available. Geranium plants come in a range of sizes. Let’s examine some of the most popular geranium kinds in more detail.
Ivy-Leaved Geraniums (Pelargonium peltatum)
Because of their trailing habit, ivy-leaved geraniums make a beautiful choice for ground covers, window boxes, or hanging pots. Clusters of delicate blooms in mauve, purple, white, scarlet, or pink are encircled by lobed leaves that have a star form. Geraniums with ivy leaves can spread up to 48 inches and reach heights of 12 to 30 inches.
Zonal Geraniums (Pelargonium x hortum)
The most typical geranium in gardens and residences is the zonal variety. Either planted in outdoor garden beds or in pots indoors or outdoors, this species flourishes. The term “zonal” refers to the zone—a darker band of color—on variegated leaves, which are best recognized for their lush foliage. Single, semi-double, and double flower clusters with vibrant flowers, including red, pink, purple, white, orange, and bicolor variations, are produced by zoning geranium types. Zonal variants can get as tall as wide as 24 inches. The height and width of dwarf zonal geraniums range from 5 to 8 inches.
Regal or Martha Washington Geraniums (Pelargonium x domesticum)
A larger hybrid variety known as “regal geraniums” has erect, bushy growth. Round, somewhat serrated leaves make up the foliage. Regal geranium plants can reach heights of 12 to 48 inches and have clusters of solitary flowers. Purple, red, pink, white, and orange types of flowers have colorful blossoms. Angel geranium (P. crispum), a dwarf cultivar, grows to a height of 9 to 36 inches.
Does zonal geranium regrowth occur annually?
A Zone of Geraniums They are produced from clippings since they do not generate seeds. a typical sight in nurseries that is colorful and lively. to a height of 18 inches. Usually a one-season bloom, but if they enjoy where they are planted, they might come back.
What distinguishes a zonal geranium from a standard geranium?
Both zonal and seed geraniums are upright growing geraniums, but before you plant them in your gardens, you should be aware of their key differences.
1. Seed geraniums are propagated using seeds, whereas zoning geraniums are grown through cuttings. The purpose of breeding zonal geraniums, a genetically advanced plant, was to produce robust, stronger zoned leaves and shatter-resistant flowers.
2. Zonal geraniums flower and grow more quickly than seed geraniums.
3. Geraniums grown in zones are larger and taller. In comparison to the seed variety, they also produce larger flowers and foliage. A smaller, more frequent variation of the zonal geranium, seed geraniums grow to a height of under one foot.
4. To deadhead zonal geraniums, which have 4-6 inch global flower heads, you must cut off the entire bloom stalk all the way to the point where it connects to the main stem. Petal cracking is the natural process through which seed geraniums lose their blossoms. When there is a lot of wind or rain, they will lose their vibrant petals, preventing the plant from blooming for a while.
All of the zonal geraniums that we grow at Crocker Nurseries are grown in our greenhouses, and we take pride in creating what we consider to be the best geraniums on the Cape. We provide them room to expand so they can become horizontally spread out and compact rather than towering and lanky. Additionally, we only water them from the base using our Ebb and Flood watering system, which fills the benches with water and then drains it out after the plant has absorbed what it need. By watering from below, leaf spots and dangerous fungal illnesses are prevented from developing on the geranium leaves.
All summer long do zonal geraniums bloom?
We simply refer to them as “geraniums”. They are among the most often used container plants, despite not actually being geraniums. They belong to the genus Pelargonium. What a mouthful, huh? True geraniums exist in the form of perennial cranesbills, but they don’t resemble the flowering plants we usually refer to as geraniums.
With the exception of the distinction that perennial cranesbill geraniums will come back every year and zonal geraniums, now classified as Pelargonium, are topical perennials typically grown as annuals, the confusion with the names can be traced back to disagreements between botanists over classification.
You can grow zonal geraniums as perennials if your climate is similar to South Africa’s tropical one. There are three Pelargonium species that are more frequently cultivated, along with zonal geraniums:
- Green Ivy Geranium (Pelargonium peltatum) These geraniums have a trailing habit and ivy-shaped leaves, as suggested by their name. The plants are frequently used as spillers in containers because their flowers are smaller and less showy than those of zonal geraniums.
- Red-Flowered Geranium (Pelargonium domesticum)
- The oil in scented geraniums’ leaves is what gives them their fragrance. All kinds of scents, including lemon, rose, mint, pine, fruits, and even chocolate, can be imitated by them. The leaves can have a variety of forms, while the flowers are often small and unimpressive. Many of them can be utilized in cooking in addition to their decorative and fragrant appeal.
- The geraniums royal and angel (Pelargonium domesticum)
- The Regals are big, bushy plants with flowers in striking colors and are also known as Martha Washington geraniums.
Bushy plants known as zonal geraniums are typically used for bedding and containers. There is a good degree of variability because there has been a lot of breeding, especially for blossom size, quantity, and colors.
- Leaves: Succulent stems bear oval leaves. Zones of bronzy-green or maroon are frequently seen on the leaves.
- Flowers: Flowers come in transparent white, pink, salmon, orange, red, magenta, lavender, and bi-colors and can be solitary (5 petals) or double.
USDA Hardiness Zones 9–12 are the hardiness zones. In essence, zonal geraniums are tropical perennials. Although they are frequently planted as annuals, if they have adequate protection and a warm winter, they may overwinter in zones as cool as Zone 7.
Mature Size: Size varies according on the type. There are newer types being bred for height and spread, as well as some dwarf geraniums that will never grow taller than 5 to 6 inches. Most are typically between 5 and 24 inches (12 and 60 cm) high by 12 and 15 inches (30 and 38 cm) wide.
Bloom Period: Zonal geraniums begin to bloom in the middle of spring and continue to do so until the first frost. After the blossom fades, deadhead the entire flower stalk to promote further blooming.
Recommended Varieties:
- Pink and white bi-colored pom-pom flowers are called “Appleblossom Rosebud.”
- ‘Black Velvet Rose’ – Bright rose-pink flowers and dark, chocolate-brown foliage with just a thin ring of green.
- “Calliope Dark Red” is a hybrid of ivy-leaved and zonal plants with double, dark-red blooms.
- ‘Divas Orange Ice’ is an F1 hybrid with creamsicle-like flowers that are bi-colored white and soft orange.
There are more options available every year. There are Pelargoniums with spiky star-shaped flowers, cactus-shaped flowers, and tulip-shaped flowers if you can locate a reliable source. There are also cultivars with ornamental leaves, which are cultivated more for their patterned and variegated foliage.
Design Suggestions: Plant snobs have a terrible reputation for zonal geraniums. They have been regarded as vulgar and unoriginal. Even though too many of the vividly colored plants can start to look out of place, they do well in a variety of pots. Brighter reds complement similarly vibrant flowers like portulaca or nasturtium and are particularly stunning on their own. Less intense pinks and salmons go well with blue and purple flowers, while lavender hues especially pop next to vines of the Huechera or sweet potato, which have chartreuse foliage.
Soil: Zonal geraniums prefer a slightly acidic soil with a pH of 5.8 to 6.5 but are not overly picky about it. (The soil must drain effectively because these plants dislike being wet for an extended period of time.)
Zonal geraniums can be planted from seed, cuttings, or transplants. The conventional method of growing geraniums and preserving popular kinds involved taking cuttings. If you decide to take cuttings, be sure to utilize only strong, healthy plants.
Starting Geraniums from Seed: Although the seeds are typically for F1 hybrids, geranium can be simply started from seed. Geranium seedlings are engineered to resist disease and bloom well in the sweltering summer months.
8 to 10 weeks before to the latest date of frost, sow seeds. They should be kept warm, between 70 and 75F (21 and 24C), and wet while they germinate because it can take them up to 2 weeks. Before planting, scarifying the seed will help promote germination.
Before putting young seedlings outdoors, harden them off. After being planted, they should blossom after about a month.
Zonal geraniums don’t require a lot of food, but since they are typically planted in containers, a light application of your preferred fertilizer every two to four weeks can keep them healthy.
They appear to blossom more profusely when you somewhat stress them by watering just after the soil has totally dried out for a day or two. Just be careful not to dry them out for too long or they will start losing their leaves and dying.
Your plants will require some winter protection if you don’t live in USDA Zone 9 or higher. You can bring them inside and cultivate them as houseplants in a window that receives enough of natural light. You can either overwinter your geraniums in their dormant form or take cuttings in the middle of the summer and move these smaller plants indoors.
Pests and issues: When grown outdoors, zonal geraniums are generally not susceptible to insect pests. Aphids and whiteflies can become an annoyance indoors.
- Root or stem rot brought on by ill-drained soil.
- Gray mold or botrytis, which forms grayish fuzz on the leaves and subsequently a slimy mush, especially in humid or moist circumstances.
The National Garden Bureau deserves special recognition for selecting the pelargonium as its 2012 Plant of the Year and for providing research for this article.
The best zonal geraniums, though?
Utilize zonal geraniums to achieve your goals. Although most gardeners just refer to zonal geraniums as geraniums, they are a great garden favorite and one of the most readily recognized annuals on the market. The plant Pelargonium x hortorum, a relative of perennial geraniums like Geranium Rozanne, is known in botanical circles as the zonal geranium.
The leaves of a zonal geranium are round to practically kidney-shaped, and they may or may not have a darker circular mark on them. The mark could be a deep shade of green or perhaps burgundy. The popular name zonal geranium was given to the plant because of this mark or zone.
Zonal geraniums have sphere-like flowers that are supported by strong stems. Except for genuine blue, colors span almost the full spectrum of the rainbow. Modern hybrids of today give blooms in the traditional red as well as pink, purple, yellow, orange, rose, and other colors. Bicolor combinations and petals with contrasting whiskers or dots are some examples of flower colors. Some flowers have several petals, while others have petals that are ruffled or pointed. The constant among zonal geraniums is variety.
Zonal geraniums come in a wide variety thanks to plant breeders. Some hybrids are raised from seeds. These plants often have a reduced overall size, produce fewer solitary blooms, and mature at shorter heights. Typically, seed geraniums are more affordable. Cuttings are used to grow zonal geraniums that are vegetatively propagated. The price, bloom size, and plant size are all beefier on these plants. Cutting-grown zonal geraniums develop semi-double and double blooms.
Zonal geraniums are simple to grow. With the exception of the hottest regions of the nation, where the plants benefit from a little afternoon shade, these blooming beauties thrive in full sun. Zonal geraniums should be tucked into well-drained soil that has been amended with a lot of organic matter in planting beds. The floral display is maintained using a fertilizer with a gradual release bloom enhancer.
Use a commercial soilless mix created especially for use in pots when planting in containers, such as hay racks, hanging baskets, pots, and window boxes. In these mixtures, slow-release fertilizer is frequently used. This gives zonal geraniums a terrific start, but starting approximately four weeks after planting, it’s a good idea to feed plants a water-soluble bloom booster fertilizer. Throughout the summer, fertilize zonal geraniums with bloom booster every two weeks.
Snap the stems of fading flowers as closely as you can to the main plant. Even if all of the individual blossoms aren’t open, flowers should be removed if mold starts to grow on them during extended rainy periods. When botrytis mold infests a zonal geranium, it can be difficult to eradicate, especially if wet, rainy circumstances continue. Getting rid of any moldy leaves or blooms will help prevent the disease from spreading.
How are zonal geraniums cared for?
Gardeners have traditionally favored geraniums. They smell wonderful, are colorful, and are simple to grow. How to cultivate geraniums in your house and garden is provided here!
(Note: This page is about Pelargonium plants, sometimes known as geraniums or storksbills. This is not a page about “hardy geraniums, also referred to as cranesbills.
Geraniums are normally kept indoors to overwinter, even if they may be kept outside throughout the warmer months of the year. In contrast, if given enough light, they can bloom all year long indoors.
Geranium or Pelargonium? A Case of Mistaken Identity
Early in the 18th century, Dutch traders who were traveling through South Africa brought the plants that we now refer to as “geraniums” to Europe. Botanists misclassified these new plants into the same genus because they resembled the hardy wild geraniums that are already present throughout Europe.
Botanist Carl Linnaeus of Sweden included them in the genus Geranium in 1753. Pelargonium, which refers to the long, sharply pointed shape of their seedpod, was used to reclassify these new “geraniums when it was later revealed that they differed from European geraniums in the shape of their petals, the number of stamens, and other features.
However, people still refer to them by their old common name, “geranium,” even if we really mean “pelargonium.”
- You can grow geraniums as annual blooms or as indoor plants. They can be kept outside in a sunny area throughout the warmer months of the year (between your local frost dates).
- If keeping geraniums as indoor plants, make sure to do so in the late summer or early fall when overnight lows begin to consistently fall below 55F. (13C).
- Pay great attention to the size and color of geraniums when purchasing them. Healthy stems and leaves will not be straggly or discolored on top of them or underneath them. A plant with evident insect indications should also be avoided. Mealybugs, whiteflies, and spider mites are typical indoor plant pests.
- To prevent root rot, put plants in containers with drainage holes.
- When planting in pots, use a well-draining potting mixture rather than heavy, clayey soil. Geraniums dislike being planted in mucky, compacted soil.
- Place the plants where they will receive 4-6 hours of sunlight per day for the best bloom.
How to Care for Geraniums
- After letting the soil somewhat dry between waterings, water it again well.
- Water plants significantly less throughout the winter, but make sure the roots are not completely dried up. Given a time of hibernation throughout the winter, when they consume less water and don’t grow as much, geraniums thrive. For additional overwintering tips, see the section below.
- Regularly deadhead spent flowers to promote blooming.
- Pinch back the stems to encourage bushiness and prevent legginess.
- Fertilize approximately every two weeks throughout the active growing months. Half-strength a fertilizer that is water soluble When the plant should be dormant in the winter, avoid fertilizing.
- Repotting geraniums can be done in the spring to promote new growth or if they appear to need revitalization.
Overwintering Geraniums
- If they receive plenty of sunlight, geraniums that have spent the summer outdoors can be kept indoors. The sun may not be strong enough in northern regions in late winter to promote buds on some cultivars.
- Lift the plants before the first fall frost (you can find your local frost dates here), and use a sharp, clean knife to shapely prune the stems back to about 6 to 8 inches. In the low-sunlight environment they are about to enter, they shouldn’t have to maintain substantial amounts of leaves. A simple technique to increase the number of your plants is to save a few stems for rooting.
- Place the “mother plant” in the smallest pot you can find—just big enough to hold the roots—and fill it with ordinary potting soil.
- The plants should be kept in the shadow for a week before being moved to a sunny location and kept cool.
- Geraniums thrive in temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit (10 and 16 degrees Celsius) at night during the winter, but they can also withstand lows of 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius) and highs of 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius), provided they are kept relatively dry.
- Cut off all the old leaves when the spring growth begins.
Keeping the new growth alive is the only challenge that can compare to getting it to appear. Here is some assistance with that:
- Only offer tiny quantities of water when the leaves begin to droop. Don’t feed or fertilize the plants. These plants must have some downtime.
- Pinch back your overwintered geraniums in February if you want them to bloom by Memorial Day. Take the plants outside and move them to beds or pots, as you like, once warm weather returns and all threat of frost has passed.
- Containers are ideal for growing the Common or Zonal Geraniums (Pelargonium x hortorum) (as well as outdoors).
- Hanging baskets, window boxes, and containers are all extremely popular places to use Ivy-Leaf Geraniums (Pelargonium peltatum).
How to Root Stem Cuttings
The majority of geraniums readily take root from stem cuttings when placed in soil, sand, water, perlite, or another rooting medium.
- Make a slanted incision 4 inches below the tip of the stem, above the node where the leaves emerge, with a clean, sharp knife. Cut the grass immediately below a node. Remove all except two or three leaves, any buds, and the stipules that resemble leaves at the base of leaf stalks.
- To ensure that the cut end of the stem will seal and not rot, roll the stem cutting in newspaper or place it in the shade for 24 hours.
- Place the stem in a wet rooting media container and keep it there for two days in a warm, shaded area. Give the cutting indirect sun after that. Just as needed, moisten the medium.
- Apply crushed geranium leaves to small cuts to halt the bleeding.
- Scarlet geranium is the flower that speaks of foolishness. More floral meanings can be found here.
- You won’t have to worry about those bothersome bugs because geraniums are known to be harmful to Japanese beetles.
- Keep geraniums out of the reach of curious youngsters and animals (cats, dogs) as they might cause indigestion or vomiting.
Low light, overexposure, and underwatering are common issues. Yellowing leaves are a sign that you are watering your plants either too little or too much. Try to water the geraniums evenly in this situation, and transfer them to a more sunny location.