If stored properly, sweet pea seeds should be viable for two to three years.
Simply let the mature pods on the plant until they are ready to be picked, let them dry, and then store them to harvest sweet pea seeds.
Do you have any sweet pea seed collections? In the comments box below, please share your insider information!
Can you save sweet pea seeds?
To tie in sweet peas, view David Hurrion’s No Fuss video tutorial here:
When blossoms start to develop, start fertilizing with a heavy potash fertilizer, such tomato food. Picking regularly will promote more blooms and stop plants from setting seed. In extremely dry conditions and when growing in pots, water sweet peas.
Learn how to extend your sweet pea crops in this useful video from Monty Don. Monty explains how routine picking will keep your plants in bloom well into September and throughout the summer. Additionally, you’ll always have fresh flowers for the home:
Growing sweet peas: problem solving
Slug and snail damage is more common in young sweet pea plants. Use copper bands, beer traps, or the biological control Nemaslug to keep them away. Learn more about repelling snails and slugs.
Leggy sweet peas can occur occasionally. David Hurrion offers the following advice on how to save them:
The soil around plants can become particularly dry in hot, bright weather, which can cause sweet peas to lose their blossoms. Check out this Quick Tips video with Catherine Mansley from BBC Gardeners’ World Magazine for tips on how to handle and avoid this issue:
Saving sweet pea seeds
Starting in early September, seed can be harvested. Till they have taken on the color of a paper bag, leave the seed pods on the plants. When you’re ready to sow them, gather them on a dry day, separate them from their pods, and store them in paper bags in a dry location.
When do pea seeds expire?
We go over how to preserve your own organic seeds in this series. You realize how enjoyable and simple it can be once you take a small step into the world of seed preserving. For example, tomatoes, peas, and French beans are excellent places to start. You not only continue to eat organic foods every year, but you also save money.
We also examine some of the amazing heritage types that are readily available. Why not support our Heritage Seed Library if taste and distinctiveness are your goals? Many types that are no longer commonly available are preserved by us. They are frequently dismissed as “uncommercial.” Many are regional, such the English Winter Leamington cauliflower, Stoke lettuce, and Stafford wide beans.
The HSL crew continues the seed-to-plant-to-harvest-to-seed cycle every year to prevent the extinction of these ancient heritage cultivars.
In addition to your Garden Organic membership, joining the Heritage Seed Library will only set you back an extra 1.50 each month. By doing this, you will help us continue our important job of protecting endangered heritage species, and you will also be eligible to receive up to 6 packets of free seed each year!
You can keep seeds from ripened fruit each year with some veggies, such as tomatoes and peas, because they are incredibly straightforward to grow.
Others, like runner beans and pumpkins, require a little more caution to keep your own variety pure and avoid any cross-pollination from other plants. You cannot foresee the type of bean you will grow the following year, for example, if a bee from your neighbor’s plants (which are a different type of runner bean) pollinates your runner bean bloom. A combination of the two may apply. Read more in our Seed Saving Guidelines for assistance.
Therefore, let’s begin with the simple seed savers:
Peas Pisum Sativum
Peas are incredibly simple to produce and plant; even a grocery store bag of dried peas is likely to germinate. Why not preserve your own organic ones, though? They should be sown thickly at first, then thinned gradually by chopping and consuming the extra green shoots in salads. You can gather pea pods all summer long if you let the remaining plants become bushy. You can have your own supply to plant the next year if you leave some on the plant to dry.
Peas can be dried on the vine and reach maturity fairly quickly. Lift the entire plants and hang them inside somewhere warm until the pods are totally dry if a crop that is almost mature is at risk of frost.
- Hand-pop the peas (seeds) from the pod.
- Remove any that are harmed or discolored and spread the others out to dry further.
- Store in a dry, cold environment. Pea seeds should keep for at least three years in storage.
when to plant sweet peas
When between October and April, plant sweet pea seeds. Aim for late October or late November or late February or early March for the best outcomes because midwinter temperatures and light conditions aren’t the optimum. In April or May, sweet peas can also be planted directly into the ground. During a moderate period between March and May, sow your sweet pea seeds and plants.
Can sweet pea seeds still be started?
Nothing is more pleasant for a gardener than planting sweet pea and other flower seeds in the winter. Getting out my sweet pea seed packets and seeing them germinate and sprout indoors is the most delightful thing to do when there is not much happening in the garden itself and I have been spending days indoors due to the cold, wet weather!
Therefore, if you’ve been considering that the only thing you can do for your garden is sit and observe it from the window, reconsider your position.
Early planting of sweet peas will repay you with delightfully scented and eye-catching blossoms. Sweet pea seeds must be started in late winter or early spring if you plant in a zone 7 or colder climate. Don’t hold off till the last frost! Generally speaking, you should start your seedlings inside 6 to 8 weeks before the final anticipated frost.
It might be too late to grow sweet peas and get decent results if you wait until after your final frost. In other regions of the nation, spring lasts only a few weeks before temperatures suddenly rise. Sweet peas require lower temperatures to grow well.
Do sweet pea seeds need to be soaked before planting?
To aid in seed germination, many individuals advise soaking seeds overnight before sowing. This is due to the hard outer shell of some types. Others, though, contend that soaking might make plants weaker.
However, you might try slightly shattering the seed’s outer shell right before sowing if you’ve previously had difficulties getting the seeds to germinate.
On the side opposite the seed’s black “eye” or scar, carefully nick the shell with a sharp knife or rub it with sandpaper.
Can seeds that are 20 years old grow?
When you buy seed packets, they frequently include more seeds than you can use in one season, and over time, you could acquire a lot of half packets without realizing how old they are. You may understandably question if planting them will cause them to re-germinate. Do seeds deteriorate over time, or can you sow them regardless of their age?
Yes, seeds eventually lose their viability and cease to germinate, but this process might take a very long period. The likelihood is great that a sizable portion of the seeds in those old seed packages will successfully germinate. Though not always, most seeds can be stored for at least three years while still having a respectable germination rate. Additionally, 10–20% of a batch of very old seeds may still sprout.
How long can seeds be stored before being planted?
The average vegetable seed has a shelf life of two to three years, although some, like those for onions, lose their quality sooner. However, lettuce can still effectively sprout five years later. To store seeds effectively, make sure they are completely dry, put them in an airtight container, and maintain a constant cool temperature.
The table below, which was assembled from local sources, shows the typical years of viability for properly stored vegetable seeds. There will be some variation due to the different types of seeds and whether or not the seed was fully mature and stored dry.
Will stale seeds sprout?
Yes! Even 4,000-year-old seeds have been known to sprout. However, adequate pre-treatment is crucial, because the seed has less energy to store the older it gets.
One of the reasons why the germination process is so challenging is because seeds from annual plants are frequently not made to last for many years. Energy decreases as the sun is circled more frequently. The embryo eventually runs out of juice and is unable to penetrate the seed coat and reach the surface.
To a certain extent, we may reduce this by storing things properly in cold, dry conditions. But even so, time will ultimately prevail.
Choosing sweet peas and perennial peas
The major consideration is whether or not aroma is crucial to you when deciding between perennial Lathyrus and sweet peas. Decide if you would then like an annual or perennial plant. There are several color choices available as well as climbing and bushier varieties.
Fragrance
Choose sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus), which are generally very fragrant, if you enjoy a pleasant garden and sweet-smelling flowers for indoor use.
Lord Anson’s blue pea (Lathyrus nervosus), a perennial Lathyus, is an exception to the rule since it does have a perfume.
How long the plant lasts
After setting seed, sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) only have a one-year lifespan. However, don’t let this deter you because they are quite simple to grow from seed. Lathyrus latifolius is an example of a perennial species that returns every year, however there are fewer options and they typically lack smell.
Colour
The annual sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus) has a large variety of blossom colors, including bicolored varieties. However, the perennial varieties do come in some uncommon colors, like yellow and orange.
Habit
The majority of Lathyrus are climbing plants, therefore support them with canes, netting, or allow them to climb over a bank or through a bush. For ground cover and pots, clumping varieties like the spring-flowering Lathyrus vernus and dwarf bushy sweet pea varieties like “Snoopea” and “Bijou Mixed” are excellent choices.
Buying sweet peas and perennial peas
Although many garden centers also sell a few sweet pea seeds in packets, the largest assortment of sweet pea seeds may be acquired from internet seed suppliers. In the spring, several nurseries and garden centers sell pots of germinated sweet pea seedlings that can be divided into individual plants and raised in pots before being planted outside.
There are a few seed specialists who sell perennial Lathyrus seeds, like Lathyrus latifolius, but many gardeners opt to purchase the plants instead. The plant you’re looking for can be found using our Find a Plant tool.
When to plant sweet peas and perennial peas
- Annual sweet peas should be sown either in late January or early April and planted out in April.
- Sow perennial Lathyrus in the spring or the fall.
Where to plant sweet peas and perennial peas
Locate a sunny area where there is room for the plant to grow or to bush out (depending on its habit). Also acceptable is a little light shade, especially for Lathyrus grandiflorus.
How to plant sweet peas and perennial peas
- To avoid cold shock, indoor seedlings should be hardened off for 10–14 days before being transplanted outside.
- Ideally, four weeks before planting, enhance the soil by incorporating a soil conditioner like garden compost or manure.
- Sprinkle general-purpose fertilizer, as directed on the pack, into the area where you plan to plant it, such as Growmore, Vitax Q4, or blood, fish, and bones.
- Before planting, water your plants thoroughly to hydrate the roots.
- Remove pots from larger plants and ease seedlings out of modules or pots while being careful not to snap or crush the stems.
- Plants should be separated by 20–30 cm (8–1 ft).
- Place climbing plants near to their intended support (within 5-7.5cm or 2-3in), with two plants at the foot of each cane if they are climbing a wigwam.
- After planting, water once more to help the soil surrounding the roots settle.
Use garden twine or sweet pea support rings to secure young climbing plant shoots to canes, pea sticks, netting, trellis, or shrub shoots that they will be growing up. Tendrils in contact with supports will naturally start to cling on, but if any are straying or in danger of snapping, keep tying in new shoots.
In dry weather, check on plants in the ground every 3 to 4 days and on those in containers every day because they won’t flower as well if they become too dry. Each time you water, be sure to use enough water to completely moisten the roots.
Apply a high potassium liquid fertilizer, such as tomato feed, once or twice a week on light or infertile soils. This promotes flowering, particularly in annual sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus).
Pick or remove dead flower heads as frequently as you can once flowering starts. For annual sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus), which will stop flowering if seedpods are allowed to form, this is especially crucial.
Pinching out
When plants are around 7.5 to 10 cm tall, pinch out the shoot tips of new spring-sown sweet peas for gardening (3-4in). This promotes robust side branching. Autumn-planted seedlings frequently naturally branch.
Cordons
Pick the strongest shoot and keep pinching out all the tendrils and other sideshoots as they grow whether you want to enter your sweet peas in a local show or just want to maximize the size of blossoms for cutting. By using this technique, the plant directs its attention to the blossoms. The term “cordons” is used to describe these single-stemmed plants.
One stem per bamboo cane or tall stake needs to be tied to them on a regular basis. To keep the shoot in place as it grows, you can use twine looped in a figure-eight pattern around the cane and stem. Use sweet pea rings, which are wire loops that wrap around the stem and cane and are lightly squeezed until they hold, to make things simpler.
Cordons have the potential to grow much taller than the typical 2 m (6 1/2 ft) estimated height.
Cutting back
Cut perennial Lathyrus back to the ground in the fall, or better still, wait until February to do it so the dead stems can serve as wintertime cover for wildlife. When flowering is ended at the end of the summer, annual sweet peas can simply be pulled out and composted. This might happen a little bit sooner during hot, dry seasons.
Methods
Sweet peas can be immediately sown into the ground in April, or they can be planted in seed compost pots in the fall or spring. Although it takes more time, pot-sowing is typically more dependable than direct sowing. If you plant in the fall to enhance your chances of getting early blooms, keep seedlings in a coldframe or cold greenhouse over the winter to protect them from growing lanky. Keep the coldframe’s lid elevated unless a strong frost is anticipated. Sweet peas planted in the spring flower in 12–14 weeks.
Sweet pea seeds frequently have a tough outer covering that makes them more challenging to germinate. Place your seeds on a layer of damp vermiculite or kitchen tissue and store them in an airtight container in a warm area. As soon as the seeds swell or start to sprout, plant them. Some gardeners like to soak the seeds overnight instead, but if you don’t plant them right away thereafter, they might rot. With a sharp penknife, chip off a little portion of the hard seed coat to allow moisture to enter and promote germination on recalcitrant seeds that haven’t swelled.
- Individually sow seeds in seed compost-filled rootrainers or 9 cm (3 in) pots. As an alternative, sow five to seven seeds per 13 cm (5 in) pot, spacing them 2-3 cm (3/4-11/4 in) apart.
- Add 1 cm (1/2 in) of vermiculite or compost to the top of the seeds.
- Add water and maintain at around 15C. (59F)
- It is optional to cover the pots with clear polythene or glass to reduce the likelihood that they will dry out, but keep in mind to remove the covering after the seeds have germinated.
- Once they have grown to around 3.5 cm (11/2 in), carefully transplant single seedlings into 9cm (3 in) pots if you have seeded them several to a pot.
- Use your thumb and finger to pinch out (remove) the top of the shoot just above a healthy leaf when the seedlings are 7.5–10cm (3–4in) tall. This will promote side branches, which are always stronger than the core stem that has been removed.
- At least four weeks before planting, remove all weeds from the soil and add a soil enhancer, such as garden compost, manure, or composted bark.
- Only plant seeds as the soil begins to warm, typically around April.
- To create a wigwam, plant any temporary supports, like pea sticks or bamboo canes, in the ground.
- Take out a shallow drill of dirt 2.5 cm (1 in) deep for rows of sweet peas, and plant a seed every 5 to 7.5 cm in it (2-3in)
- Seedlings should eventually be spaced 20–30 cm (8–1 ft) apart to provide the plants enough room to flourish. The extra seedlings may seem like a waste to compost, but unless treated carefully, their roots are typically too damaged to recover.
- Push two seeds into the ground at the base of each cane to a depth of 2.5 cm (1 in) when sowing around a wigwam of canes.
Perennial peas
In the spring or the fall, divide bigger plants. If you want to divide Lathyrus vernus in the spring, wait until after flowering.
Unfortunately, very few of the issues with sweet peas and perennial peas are extremely problematic.
- Powdery mildew, which is brought on by drought or insufficient hydration, results in a grey leaf coating.