Reflowering: Geraniums typically sprawl after bloom, with the exception of the Bigroot Geranium (G. macrorrhizum) and Bloody Cranesbill (G. sanguineum) kinds. After the initial blooming wave, severely prune plants, leaving 2-3 inches of stem above the earth. They will react by producing a fresh crop of leaves that looks lovely throughout the season and, depending on the variety, perhaps irregular reblooming.
Cranesbill rarely has to be divided, though some plants can be divided into different divisions and replanted in the spring or early fall. Early in the spring, carefully transplant.
End-of-Season Care: If desired, prune back in the fall after multiple fatal frosts.
Early Spring: When new growth starts to develop, side-dress with compost and organic amendments or apply a little application of balanced or slow-release fertilizer. When there is a lot of rain for a long time, add nitrogen to prevent natural leaching. Since most plants prefer a soil that is consistently moist, water well if it is unusually dry. If you need to, transplant the plant right away. In some types, you can also cut off a few sections of the plant’s edges that have roots to help with propagation.
Mid-Spring: Supporting taller or sprawling kinds with brushy twigs or interlaced, thin stakes is beneficial.
In the summer, trim plants by removing any dead or yellowing leaves. Trim back to three inches if plants are taking up more room than they should; the new foliage will look great the rest of the season.
Cut back foliage in the fall to the soil line. Mulch to prevent plants from heaving out of the soil in the winter when the earth has frozen.
When may hardy geraniums be transplanted?
In order to give the plant enough time to establish its roots before a frost, divide the geraniums in the early spring to early summer. Shake the earth off the plant’s roots by digging it up. Make divisions with a trowel or knife, being careful to include a root section and leaves in each division.
When should cranesbill geranium be pruned back?
Hardy geraniums, also known as cranesbill geraniums, received their name from the way their seed pods are shaped; they resemble a crane’s bill. Hardy spreading perennials called cranesbill geraniums are used as fillers between gardens and shrubs, as a low-growing border, and to conceal the barren “ankles” of taller plants. The care of cranesbills is not very demanding. Your cranesbill will thrive and spread cheerfully if you prune the clumps three times a year and fertilize once in the spring. Give cranesbills lots of space because they want to spread out and aren’t afraid to encroach on (smother) nearby plants.
In the early to midspring, just as growth starts to show, prune cranesbill geraniums.
Trim damaged and dead stems back to just above the crown. Cut back side branches to the crown or shorten them by several inches if your cranesbill is expanding beyond its original location.
- Hardy geraniums, also known as cranesbill geraniums, received their name from the way their seed pods are shaped; they resemble a crane’s bill.
- Hardy spreading perennials called cranesbill geraniums are used as fillers between gardens and shrubs, as a low-growing border, and to conceal the barren “ankles” of taller plants.
Midsummer or after the flowers have started to fade is the best time to prune cranesbill geraniums back to 6 to 7 inches. They will remain more compact as a result, and late summer will see another blooming burst.
In the early to mid-fall, prune faded flowers by making cuts just above a sturdy branch or bud.
Size & Growth
Although the height of cranesbills varies depending on the species, they often fall under the category of higher shrubs and can grow anywhere between 12 and 20 inches in a year.
However, they have a spread of typically between 18 and 24 inches and are mounding plants.
Although the plants are native to temperate regions, they are extensively grown under similar circumstances all over the world.
Hardy geraniums can be identified by their dark green, citrus-flavored leaves, which is why they are sometimes called scented geraniums.
These plants’ autumnal foliage, which consists of a mixture of brown, golden, burnished bronze, and red hues, produces a stunning display.
Flowering and Fragrance
Beautiful flowers in white, purple, magenta, lilac, blue, violet-blue, and pink hues are produced by the plants in the summer.
The blooming season for many cranesbill species begins in late spring and lasts into late October.
These geranium types are a popular choice for gardens because of their lovely bloom hues.
Light & Temperature
True geraniums thrive in full sun, but they also like midday part shade.
The optimum locations for these plants are those that provide them with morning sunlight and afternoon mild shade.
Watering Requirements and Feeding
However, be careful not to overwater as they cannot thrive in soil that is saturated with water or has standing water.
When the new foliage is just beginning to emerge in the early spring, the flowering perennial plant species benefit from a yearly feeding with a balanced 10-20-10 fertilizer.
After mid-summer deadheading, the fertilizer should be administered again as soon as the plants begin to produce new growth.
These geranium species shouldn’t receive any more fertilizer than this because excessive fertilization frequently results in sprawling and lanky growth.
Coral Bells (Heuchera)
Heuchera, often known as coral bells, has vibrant foliage from spring to fall and, in warmer climes, even into the winter. Coral bells shouldn’t be pruned in the late fall whether they are evergreen in your zone or not. Why? Through the winter, their foliage shields their crown. All you need to do is tidy up the plant in the spring to ensure another year of bright color!
Coneflowers (Echinacea)
Long-blooming perennial coneflowers (Echinacea) give bright color from summer till frost, but it doesn’t stop there. With noticeable seed heads, their flowers continue to be interesting long after they have faded. The seeds are adored by birds and other creatures, and they are frequently visited during the fall and winter by goldfinches, blue jays, and cardinals. You can always chop them if you’d prefer, but we advise leaving them standing in winter to bring texture and liveliness to the winter garden!
Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia)
Black-eyed Susans, commonly known as Rudbeckia, share the prominent center cones of coneflowers and can be kept standing throughout winter. In the late fall and winter, you can see birds sitting on their wasted seed heads, which gives the winter garden a little bit of interest and excitement! It won’t harm the plant if you choose to cut them for a neater winter appearance.
*In the fall and winter, we adore how their black dry seed heads appear in dried flower arrangements!
Ornamental Grasses
Even though ornamental grass is merely a perennial, planting it is a proven way to give your garden four seasons of pleasure! The landscape is enhanced by the height, color, movement, and structure of ornamental grasses. The foliage takes on rich gold tones even when it is dormant in the winter and retains its structure until it is chopped down in the spring.
*Dried plumes can be brought indoors for decorating or used to hold snow and frost in the landscape.
Ferns
What makes ferns so great? observing the springtime emergence of their fresh fronds and their summertime unfolding. The fronds give the garden a fluffy texture and rich green, purple, or silver hues. Even though they may lose some of their color in the winter, they continue to offer texture and guard the crown until the spring when fresh fiddleheads sprout. Wait till you see new fronds sprouting in the spring before cutting back old ones!
Milkweed (Asclepias)
As a perennial native plant, milkweed (Asclepias) is essential for year-round pollinator support. Its leaf provides food for Monarch caterpillars in the spring. Clusters of nectar-rich blooms provide food for bees, butterflies, and birds in the summer and early fall. Keep your milkweed standing in the late fall and winter to give nesting pollinators a place to hide. They’ll be grateful to you come spring!
Red Hot Poker (Kniphofia)
Red hot poker, also known as Kniphofia, is a South African native that tolerates heat, humidity, and direct sunlight well. Temps throughout the winter? Despite the fact that some kinds are hardy down to zone 5, not really. To safeguard the crown, we advise leaving the foliage standing all winter. The flower stalks can be cut off, but save the rest of the cleanup for spring!
Cranesbill (Geranium)
Even in the winter, cranesbill (also known as geranium) is a hard-working perennial in the garden. They are semi-evergreen, which means that in moderate areas, they retain their green foliage throughout the winter. To enjoy some extra greenery during the winter, put off cutting the foliage back until April.
*You can always trim back cranesbill if you’d like if it isn’t an evergreen in your zone.
Stonecrop (Sedum)
Stonecrops (Sedum) may resemble indoor succulent plants in appearance, but they are surprisingly winter-hardy plants. Although their foliage and blossoms will wither away in the winter, we don’t advise cutting them. Why? On erect sedums, the dried flower stalks provide texture, color, and food for wildlife. They also have a lovely appearance while holding recently fallen snow!
False Indigo (Baptista)
Due to the sound-absorbing properties of snowfall, the garden is typically silent in the winter. Even though it’s inactive, false indigo (Baptisia) alters that by introducing texture, motion, and noise. Fall sees the replacement of spent blooms with seed-filled black pods that resemble tiny maracas. They make a little music when they rustle in the winter winds.
How well do geraniums transplant?
Geraniums (Pelargonium spp.) transplant readily as long as they have plenty of moisture and light after their move, regardless of whether they are nursery plants relocated to a garden or especially colorful plants protected from winter freezes by being taken indoors.
Do hardy geraniums need to be pruned back?
Hardy geraniums require hardly any maintenance. Rabbits don’t seek them, while slugs and snails prefer to consume other plants. After their initial flowering, they can be trimmed right back to the ground, and the next summer, they will produce new foliage and additional blooms. Avoid cutting back too soon after flowering because some hardy geraniums have lovely autumn leaves.
Propagating hardy geraniums
Hardy geraniums don’t typically need to be propagated because seedlings may be easily removed from the garden and potted up. In the spring, plants can be lifted and divided. Hardy geraniums can be challenging and time-consuming to grow from seed.
Growing hardy geraniums: problem solving
Geraniums that are hardy are generally trouble-free. However, the geranium sawfly larvae have been known to attack them (Ametastegia carpini). These appear to be 12mm long, small grey caterpillars. They leave unattractive lace-like holes in the leaves after they eat them. In your garden, the more resilient geraniums you have, the more probable it is that they will reproduce.
Since they fall off the leaves when the plant is disturbed, the larvae might be challenging to see. The months of May and September see the most activity; the September generation pupates in the soil and spends the winter there before emerging in the spring to deposit eggs on the foliage. Even though the damage can be extremely unattractive, the plant rarely becomes less vigorous as a result. The following steps could assist in keeping them in check:
- Many geranium sawfly larvae overwinter in the soil, therefore clearing away debris and lightly raking the soil beneath vulnerable plants will expose the larvae to the elements, where they will be killed by frost and devoured by birds and other predators.
- From May on, carefully inspect the undersides of leaves for signs of the eggs and larvae and remove them by hand if possible to prevent numbers from growing.
How is cranesbill prepared for winter?
The ideal course of action would seem to be to prune all of your perennials in the fall. I see why you would want to trim down the perennials and get ready for the upcoming Christmas season—you have lovely fall weather, you’re already raking leaves, etc. Unfortunately, our desires and the needs of our plants are not always the same. Here are some common queries about perennial winterization answered.
Depending on what you have planted in your garden, the process of effectively winterizing your perennials can frequently take place from late October into the first few weeks of spring. The most important thing when cutting perennials for the fall is to take your time.
A plant’s leaves are what give it life, so they should never be entirely clipped until after several hard frosts. It is possible for the plant to absorb the additional energy it requires by letting it naturally wither away. The plant moves its energy from the dying foliage to the roots, where it will be stored for the winter and used to grow a new, attractive plant in the spring. By pruning a perennial too soon in the fall, you run the risk of weakening it and having it perform poorly the next year.
The perennial variety will determine when to prune, but there are primarily 3 categories to consider:
- After the deadly frost, thoroughly prune the tree.
- In the spring or fall, prune to the base of the leaves.
- Never prune in the fall (prune or clean up in spring)
1. After the fall killing frost, totally prune the tree. Although pretty self-explanatory, be aware that this process could happen at any time between mid-October and December.
- When the foliage turns black, cut the anemone (Anemone x hybrid) to the ground.
- When the beebalm (Monarda) dies back, cut it to the ground. Occasionally, if powdery mildew is a serious infestation, this may need to be reduced early.
- Nepeta catmint should be cut down when the foliage turns brown.
- Cut down Cranesbill (Geranium) when the foliage turns brown.
- Hemerocallis daylily, cut to the ground as the leaf turns brown.
- Cut Hosta (Hosta) to the ground once the leaf has withered.
- Cut the iris (Iris sibirica) to the ground when the leaf withers or leave it for winter interest and trim it back in the spring before the new growth appears.
- When the foliage dies down, cut the peony (Paeonia) to the ground.
- Cut to the ground Sedum (Sedum) as the foliage dies back, or leave for winter interest and trim in the middle of winter or in the first few weeks of spring before new growth starts.
- When the foliage on tall Phlox (Phlox paniculata) dies back, cut it back to the ground.
- When the foliage on Threadleaf Coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata) dies back, cut it back to the ground.
2. Completely prune in the spring or fall to the base foliage. A structure’s base is referred to as its basal. In its simplest form, basal foliage is fresh foliage that emerges at a plant’s base.
- Susan the Black-Eyed (Rudbeckia) For the benefit of wildlife, leave the seed heads up in the winter. In the spring, just wipe off the remaining leaves and cut the stems back to the basal foliage.
- Campanula (Bellflower): In the fall, prune back to the basal foliage.
- Coneflower (Echinacea)
- For the benefit of wildlife, leave the seed heads up in the winter. In the spring, just wipe off the remaining leaves and cut the stems back to the basal foliage.
- Penstemon (Penstemon digitalis) should be pruned in the fall to the basal foliage.
- Trim the stems of the Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum) to the basal foliage in the fall, and then in the spring, only remove any leftover foliage.
- In the fall, cut back yarrow (Achillea) to the basal foliage.
Avoid pruning in the fall (prune or clean up in spring). Some perennials simply benefit from having more leaf on top in the fall to protect the plant’s crown, but evergreen and woody perennials should never be cut back.
- Aster (Aster) In the spring, before the emergence of new leaf, totally prune.
- Before the new leaf emerges in the spring, fully prune the asters.
- Monarch Butterfly (Asclepias tuberosa)
- It’s not necessary to wait until spring to cut this back, but because it blooms later than most other perennials, it’s usually simpler to leave it alone so that it can freely reproduce. In order to avoid mistaking the new seedlings for weeds come spring, you’ll need to know where it was in your garden.
- Although it is not required to wait until spring, Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis) benefits from the additional leaves on top to help protect the plant’s crown.
- Camembert Pinks (Dianthus gratianopolitanus)
- Simply remove the dried flower stalks and any untidy foliage in the spring after they bloom because these have evergreen foliage.
- Coralbells (Heuchera) have evergreen foliage, so in the fall, cut the flower stems to the base foliage, and in the spring, tidy up the foliage as needed.
- Invading Phlox (Phlox stolonifera)
- Simply clean the foliage once the spring blooms have passed since these have evergreen foliage.
- False indigo (Baptisia australis): Either leave the foliage for the seed heads, or cut it back completely as new growth starts to emerge in the spring by cutting back by a third in the fall.
- Lavender (Lavandula)
- Since lavender is a woody perennial, they only need a small amount of shaping trimming in the late fall or early spring. Avoid forcing growth before a frost by not pruning back too early; you want the growth to be hardened off so the frost won’t destroy it.
- Before the chrysanthemum’s new foliage emerges in the spring, fully prune the plant. Mums benefit from having more leaves on top throughout the winter to shield the plant’s crown.
- Rogue Sage (Perovskia)
- Since Russian sage is a woody perennial, only a moderate pruning to shape them in the early spring is beneficial.
There are several exclusions to the guidelines, as there usually are with gardening:
- Pruning down in the fall, Bearded Iris Although the leaves will still be green, they must be removed since the iris borer’s larvae are found there.
- Decorative Grasses
- When ornamental grasses are left uncut after dying back, they produce stunning winter interest in the garden. If you must trim back in the fall, be sure to wait until they have fully died back. Make sure to prune in the early spring before new growth appears if you do so. For information on how to prune the various grass varieties, click here.
- RosesIf it has to be shaped, leave the rest and only chop down a third. Any severe pruning should be postponed until early spring, right before new growth emerges.
When pruning and cleaning up your garden in the winter, remember to always practice excellent garden sanitation. To try to contain and control the disease, make sure to remove all foliage from the garden and the ground if you know a plant is sick. In order to avoid unintentionally spreading any diseases, you should also routinely clean your pruners with rubbing alcohol or a bleach and water solution.
Although perennials need patience, the reward is definitely worth the effort!