What Soil Do Hydrangeas Require

Hydrangeas have huge bloom heads and exude an old-fashioned elegance. How to plant and take care of beautiful floral bushes is explained in our hydrangea growing guide. Additionally, learn the answers to frequently asked questions like “why aren’t my hydrangeas blossoming this year?”

About Hydrangeas

These elegant plants are simple to grow, withstand nearly any sort of soil, and produce an abundance of blossoms that are unmatched in the world of shrubs for their stunning flowers. Clear blue, vivid pink, frosty white, lavender, and rose blossoms sometimes grow on the same plant, enticing us with their colors.

From container gardens to shrub borders to group plantings, hydrangeas are great for a variety of garden locations. Breeders seem to give us more possibilities every year, and gardeners have countless expectations for bloom size and color. Varieties abound. Pay attention to the species listed below to get an idea of how your hydrangea will develop as some require different maintenance. The joys you experience will be enhanced when you know what to expect.

Enjoy this tribute to hydrangea beauty and read our guide below to discover how to grow hydrangeas.

Where to Plant Hydrangeas

The majority of hydrangeas like fertile, moisture-rich soils that drain well. Compost can help improve bad soil.
Hydrangeas typically prefer some sun. In an ideal world, they would receive full sun in the morning and then some afternoon shade to avoid the intense midday sun. The Bigleaf Hydrangea (H. macrophylla), with its huge, prone-to-wilting leaves, is a prime example of this. Some kinds can withstand more direct sunlight.
Depending on the kind, place hydrangeas anywhere between 3 and 10 feet apart. Plants should always be spaced according to their anticipated mature size!

When to Plant Hydrangeas

The optimum season to plant hydrangeas is in the fall, followed by spring. The cooler shoulder seasons are the ideal times to plant shrubs because they will have plenty of time to build a strong root system before the intense heat of summer or the bitter cold of winter.
In the early morning or late afternoon, plant the shrubs. The plant is less prone to experience heat stress from direct sunshine because it is typically cooler.

How to Plant Hydrangeas

Gently remove the hydrangea from its container and examine the root ball. Snip off any rotten or dead sections, and if the plant is very root-bound, pry the roots free.
Make a hole that is two to three times as big and as deep as the root ball. The top of the planting hole should be level with the base of the plant, which is where the stem joins the earth.
After placing the plant in the hole, add enough soil to fill it halfway. generously hydrate. Fill the remaining space in the hole with soil once the water has been absorbed.
once more, thoroughly rinse.

How to Grow Hydrangeas from Cuttings

Cuttings of hydrangeas can be easily grown. They easily take root, and the process is a wonderful teaching tool for propagation. This is how you do it:

Find a branch on a mature hydrangea that is fresh growth and has not flowered. In comparison to older growth, new growth will appear lighter in color, and the stem won’t be as firm.
Make a horizontal incision 4 to 5 inches down from the branch’s tip. Make sure your cutting has at least three to four pairs of leaves.
Trim the cutting’s lowest pair of leaves so that they are flush with the stem. If you can afford to remove more than one pair of leaves, do so. Roots develop more readily from these leaf nodes. But make sure to leave at least two pairs of leaves at the cutting’s tip.
Remove the tip half of any leaves that are still pretty large by cutting them in half. This keeps the leaves from slamming into the sides of the plastic bag you’ll later use to cover the cutting (to keep the humidity up).
(Optional) Sprinkle rooting hormone and a plant antifungal powder on the stem’s leafless area (both available at a local hardware or garden store). This will promote roots and deter decay.
Prepare a small pot and put moistened potting soil inside. The cutting should be planted in the ground, buried down to the first remaining pair of leaves. Lightly water the area surrounding the stem to close any air spaces.
Wrap a plastic bag loosely around the entire pot. To prevent the cutting’s leaves from rotting, make sure the bag is not touching them. The bag can be supported by chopsticks or other such objects to keep it off the leaves.
Put the pot in a warm location that is protected from the wind and sun.
Only rewater your cutting after the top layer of soil is dry after checking on it every few days to make sure it isn’t decaying. In a few weeks, hopefully, the cutting will start to root! If you feel resistance when you gently tug on the cutting, roots have grown.

Watering

Make sure hydrangeas get enough water for the first year or two after planting and throughout any droughts.
Over the course of the growing season, water at a rate of 1 inch per week. Three times a week of heavy watering is preferable to shallow watering. Root growth is promoted by this.
All varieties of hydrangeas benefit from constant moisture, but bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas need more water.
If the soil is too dry, the leaves will wilt, and there won’t be enough moisture for the flowers to bloom.
To water thoroughly while keeping moisture off the flowers and leaves, use a soaker hose.
The best time to water hydrangeas is in the morning to protect them from disease and get them ready for the heat of the day.
Under your hydrangeas, spread organic mulch to help keep the soil cool and moist, gradually add nutrients, and enhance soil texture.

Fertilizing

You might not need to fertilize hydrangeas if your soil is rich. When fertilizer is applied in excess, blossoms are sacrificed in favor of green growth. A soil test is the most effective tool for determining your fertility requirements.

Apply fertilizer according to the type of hydrangeas you have. Every variety has varied requirements and will profit from applying fertilizer at various times.

Several mild fertilizer applications in March, May, and June are beneficial for bigleaf hydrangeas.
Two applications in April and June work best for oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas.
The only time smooth hydrangea plants require fertilizing is in the late winter.

Winter Protection

Cover plants with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw in the fall, at least 18 inches deep. If at all feasible, create cages out of chicken wire or snow fencing and cover the entire plant, including the tip, with the cages. (Avoid using maple leaves; they have a tendency to mat after becoming wet and may suffocate the plant.)

How to Prune a Hydrangea

Many of the queries from readers concern hydrangea trimming. It makes sense that it’s unclear because it relies on the hydrangea kind. Fortunately, identifying which type you have makes determining the best pruning strategy simple. Discover the fundamentals below, then read more about pruning different varieties of hydrangea here.

Pruning Common Hydrangeas

The Bigleaf cultivar of Hydrangea macrophylla is the most popular garden hydrangea shrub. (For more, see below.)

Hydrangeas with large leaves, such as Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), Oakleaf (H. quercifolia), Mountain (H. serrata), and Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris), are pruned AFTER the summer blooms have passed. On stems from the previous season, these kinds bloom (“old wood).

Avoid pruning after August 1 since flower buds actually grow in the late summer and bloom the next season.
Dead wood should only be removed in the fall or very early spring.
To stimulate branching and fullness, trim one or two of the oldest stems by cutting them all the way to the ground.
Pruning the stems all the way to the base is necessary if the plant is old, neglected, or injured. For the following season, you’ll lose the flowers, but you’ll also revive the plant for subsequent ones.
The huge Mopheads should not be deadheaded (faded flowers removed); instead, you should leave them over the winter and trim them back in the early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). Deadheading Lacecaps is OK; simply trim down to the second set of leaves below the bloom head.
Avoid pruning unless it is absolutely required while growing H. macrophylla (and H. serrata) cultivars in Zones 4 and 5, and then only after blooming. If not, merely remove dead stems in the spring.

Pruning Other Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas called Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) are clipped BEFORE flower buds develop. On stems from the current season, these kinds blossom (“new wood).

When the plant is dormant in the late winter, prune. The plant will therefore grow new buds in the spring that will result in blossoms even if the winter kills the buds.
In general, avoid pruning to “shape the bush” and just remove dead branches.

Which type of soil is ideal for growing hydrangeas?

Friable, loam soil and soil with a high organic content are ideal for hydrangea growth. The soil must have a light structure that drains properly and be able to retain rainwater. You won’t need to add any fertilizer to the soil if it is nutrient-rich.

While bigleaf hydrangeas can tolerate both acidic and alkaline soils, doing so will change the color of their blossoms (Hydrangea macrophylla).

Does hydrangea soil need to be acidic?

1. I have a number of substantial, healthy hydrangeas that

2. I made the decision to plant gardenias and hydrangeas in my flower bed this year. I now have some Texas Salvia and caladiums in this bed (Victoria). I’m not sure if I should transfer my Salvia and Caladiums because my Gardenias need acidic fertilizer.

Your gardenias and hydrangeas not only require acidic soils, but also lack thereof will result in their death (pH 5-6 minimum) which an acid fertilizer can never completely complete. For your growing mix, you must use acidic parent material so that while decomposition takes place, the plants will always have the correct pH from which to draw minerals and nutrients. Because your soil is so buffered (very alkaline due to calcareous parent material), adding an acidic fertilizer alone won’t ever alter the soil’s pH level. Excavate a portion of the planting bed’s soil, and then replace it with a potting mix made up of two thirds spaghum peat moss and one third washed (Builders Sand) sand. Additionally, you can use this mixture in containers to grow hydrangeas, gardenias, or azaleas. To ensure success, make sure this planting position gets early sun and afternoon shade. In this environment, the caladiums and Victoria salvia will grow even more successfully. Before you start planting, you might wish to add some Osmocote Slow-release fertilizer pellets to this mixture (follow the label directions for the amount for the volume of bed). Then, every week, water with your acid-based water soluble fertilizer, such as Peters 20-20-20, MiracleGrow, or Miracid.

3. Q: Despite my best efforts, I haven’t been able to maintain a healthy hydrangea plant in my garden’s shaded spot under an Angel’s Trumpet tree. It does not receive any early sun, although receiving some in the afternoon. Despite the fact that I water it every day, the plant appears to be shrinking away from the sun and the edges of the leaves are turning brown. Although I’ve heard that hydrangeas can tolerate sunlight, I’m not sure if zone 9 is the right temperature for them. I need some advice as to what these people may be doing to maintain these shrubs looking beautiful because I have noticed several healthy bushes around the area.

A: Hydrangeas can survive some light shade, but they won’t bloom as much and will grow leggily if they are in severe shadow. I believe that overwatering is your main issue. Depending on the kind of soil (thick, clay soil requires considerably less watering than sandy soil), once per week is sufficient if the hydrangea is in the ground. Watering it daily is excessive. Therefore, resume watering. Brown-around-the-edges leaves signify a root issue, which can be caused by either too much water that rots the roots or too little water that dries out the roots. I’m betting on too much water! Additionally, when you do water, water with a water soluble fertilizer like Miracle Grow, Rapid Grow, or Peters 20-20-20 after a week or 10 days. Check to see if the plant does better after using this water-soluble fertilizer every second or third watering.

3. How frequently should I fertilize my potted hydrangea plants?

A potted hydrangea requires the same maintenance as any other houseplant. Maintain a moist root zone that is neither too damp nor too dry. Follow the directions on the label when fertilizing once a week by watering with a water-soluble fertilizer, such as Miracle Grow, Rapid Grow, or Peters 20-20-20. (how much to put per gallon of water). Keep it as close to the sun as you can, or if you’re going to put it outside, choose a spot that gets morning sun and afternoon shade.

Do hydrangeas need soil that is ericaceous?

For hydrangeas to change from pink to blue, the soil must be acidic and contain salts of either aluminum or iron.

We all learned in chemistry classes in school that distilled water has a neutral pH of 7. However, in horticulture, a neutral pH is typically categorized as 6.5. Any soil with a pH below 6.5 is considered acidic, and any soil with a pH above 6.5 is considered alkaline. A pH testing kit can be used to check the pH of your soil, and Greenshutters Nurseries & Garden Centre has these on hand. The inexpensive pH meters that are available are often not precise, so I do not advise using them. Often, seeing surrounding gardens and the local plant life is a simpler approach. It’s likely that your soil is acidic if nearby Rhododendrons, Camellias, and Pieris are flourishing in the soil.

Peaty or sandy soils are typical of acidic soils. Clay soils are typically not highly acidic. Chalky soils have a high pH. By incorporating Irish moss peat or ericaceous compost, you can increase the acidity of your soil. Ericaceous compost has an acidic pH range of roughly 5.0 to 5.5, while regular multifunctional compost has a pH range of 6.0 to 6.5.

Irish moss peat is particularly useful for mulching since it has a pH of about 4.0, which is much too acidic for most plants to thrive in. However, when combined with neutral or alkaline soil, it lowers the pH of the soil. Once a year, mulch with Irish moss peat and let the worms to work the peat into the soil to maintain the acidity of the soil around a plant.

As an alternative, hydrangeas can be grown in containers. Although hydrangeas can thrive in both multifunctional and ericaceous compost, it is recommended to plant them in the latter if you want them to turn blue.

If your soil is deficient in aluminum or iron salts naturally, you can easily increase them by putting Hydrangea Colorant into the soil. People claim that adding rusty nails to the soil or compost will turn hydrangeas blue; however, as I have never tried it, I am unable to confirm if this is true or false. On the other hand, Hydrangea Colorant is a combination of Iron Salts and Aluminium Sulphate. When potting or planting, it can be added to the soil. For established plants, you can also dissolve the Hydrangea Colorant in water and give your hydrangeas a weekly drink during the growing season (March to September). Your light pink kinds will become blue if you do this, while your dark pink varieties will turn mauve-blue.

Grow your hydrangea in neutral or alkaline soil, though, if you want it to stay pink.