Echinacea, sometimes known as coneflowers, is a hardy perennial in the daisy family (Asteraceae). They are indigenous to the eastern and central United States, from Colorado to Texas in the south and the Great Lakes in the north. Here is how to cultivate this native American plant in your garden.
About Coneflowers
These quick-growing plants have a height range of 2 to 4 feet, blossom from midsummer till the first fall frost, and self-sow profusely. Coneflowers are named for their elevated, conical centers that draw bees and butterflies. The seed heads draw songbirds like goldfinches once they blossom. Once they are established in a conventional garden or a meadow of wildflowers, coneflowers enjoy the heat and are trouble-free.
The majority of echinacea species are purple (E. purpurea), but there are up to nine naturally occurring varieties that are yellow or purple (E. paradox). More sizes and colors are available with hybrids, but there are drawbacks as well: many of them lack genetic diversity and are sterile, which means they cannot produce viable seed.
The lower stem of the plant, which is frequently prickly, is referred to by its genus name Echinacea, which is derived from the Latin word for hedgehog, echinus. Coneflowers are so named because their elevated, cone-shaped centers are filled with seeds that draw butterflies. After bloom, leave the seed heads on the plant to draw in songbirds like goldfinches! They are less susceptible to deer than other floral plants since they are native plants with thorny stems.
When grown in large groups, coneflowers are spectacular, especially when they are a combination of different colors.
Coneflowers prefer soil that drains well and direct sunlight. Although coneflowers can thrive in a variety of soil types, nutrient-rich soil is where they bloom at their finest. 12 to 15 inches of loose soil should be added, along with a 2 to 4 inch layer of compost or aged manure. Pick a spot where the coneflowers won’t be shaded out or languish in soggy ground. If the correct circumstances exist, they will spread quickly. (Read up on how to get soil ready for planting.)
When to Plant Coneflowers
Coneflowers are typically purchased as little plants that will soon bloom. Planting time for these should be in the spring, early summer, or fall.
- Coneflowers should be planted while they are young and will bloom in the spring or early summer.
- Eight to ten weeks prior to the last spring frost date, seeds can be started inside. Alternately, plant them outside after the soil has warmed to at least 65°F (18°C). Plants grown from seeds are unlikely to blossom for two to three years.
- Note: Coneflower plants will rapidly self-seed if you don’t clip them back.
- Coneflowers should only be divided or moved in the spring or fall.
How to Plant Coneflowers
- Coneflowers should be spaced 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the variety’s mature size.
- Dig a hole that is almost twice as wide as the pot if you are planting from one. The root ball of the plant should be level with the soil surface when it is placed. To the top of the root ball, fill in.
- At planting, give it plenty of water.
- To help keep plants wet and discourage weeds, cover the soil top with thin layers of compost, followed by mulch.
Learn more about the advantages of planting coneflowers by watching our video:
Coneflowers can withstand drought, although young plants require water from time to time, and more frequently if the spring is particularly dry.
- To help keep the plants wet and discourage weeds, mulch and compost in thin layers should be placed around them.
- Fertilizer is rarely needed in native soil. When you plant, make sure your soil has a lot of organic matter.
- If the spring is particularly dry or your coneflowers are recently planted, just add extra water in the late spring.
- When flowers start to fade, deadhead to extend the bloom duration. Trim stems to a leaf close to a bud. Late-season deadheading stops self-seeding and bird feeding.
- Optional: When coneflower plants bloom, prune them back by a foot to promote delayed blooming for fall enjoyment. Because coneflowers have a tendency to become lanky, this will result in later blossoming and more compact growth. For more evenly spaced bloom heights and periods, cut certain flowers but not others.
- August could bring on beneficial army beetles that resemble wasps. They pollinate plants and eat bug eggs and larvae. Avoid hurting them.
- In cooler areas, scatter mulch around plants in the late fall.
- When stems wilt or after a hard cold, trim them back to the soil line. Cut back in the late winter to encourage self-seeding. When cleaning up the garden in the late winter or early spring, prune back the plants.
- Optional: Think about allowing late-season flowers to develop on the plants. Birds will be drawn to the seed heads, which will encourage self-seeding. If you prefer not to have self-seeding, deadheading will stop it. Cut the dead flower back to a leaf where you can see a bud that is about to swell in order to deadhead.
- Coneflowers can be divided or moved in the spring or fall.
Growing Coneflowers in Pots
Coneflowers are often grown in the ground as perennial plants, but you can grow them in pots if the pots are deep enough to accommodate the plant’s taproot. Use containers with drainage holes that are at least 2 or 3 gallons in size. For drainage, spread crushed gravel in the pots’ bottoms. With potting mix, halfway fill the pot. Slow down. Spread the roots out and plant the root ball an inch below the container’s rim. Gently press down the soil after adding it gradually until it is level with the top of the root ball. Deep breathing.
- Place pots in full morning sun and half afternoon shade after keeping them in partial shade for two to three days.
- Always deeply water the soil when it feels dry to the touch. There is a risk of fungus from water on leaves.
- Every few weeks, fertilize the soil with a water-soluble 10-10-10 product.
- For sustained flowering, remove the dead flowerheads slightly below the flower’s base.
- When plant development slows in the fall, trim plants to the soil level to overwinter them.
- Move to a spot with low to moderate indirect light and a cool (40 to 50 °F) temperature.
- Every few weeks, check the soil and water it lightly if the top 3 inches are dry.
- If new growth starts to sprout in the spring, relocate to a warmer (60 to 70 °F) and more sunny spot. Moving the plant aids in preparing it for life in the spring and summer outdoors.
- Avoid watering leaves from above since this can promote fungus on the leaves. Instead, hydrate the soil. If you notice any bugs or aphids, use a neem oil solution spray or an insecticidal soap.
- Dividing and repotting echinacea plants every three to four years following the start of new growth is recommended.
- Echinacea purpurea cultivar “Robert Bloom” features pronounced, dark orange centers and vivid scarlet flower petals.
- The dark mauve flower petals of Tennessee coneflower (Echinacea tennesseensis) have greenish-pink cores.
- Echinacea purpurea’s “Finale White” variety includes flower heads that are creamy white with greenish-brown cores.
- The soft-yellow petals of the hybrid echinacea “Cleopatra” have golden-green cores.
Coneflowers grow from seeds over how long?
Authentic flowers
Grandma’s varieties provide charm and beauty to your gardens. Each seed packet comes with planting instructions, and shipping is free!
Quick Guide: Planting, Growing & Caring for Echinacea
- Plants that require little care and water have robust pink flowers.
- Plant in broad light; loves nutrient-rich soil, yet is remarkably adaptable
- Grow from division, nursery stock, or direct sowing
- attracts butterflies and bees
- Summer to October blooming; tolerates light frost
Full sun to some partial shade From seed to flower: 90–120 days of maturation 36 to 48 inches tall 12 to 24 inches should separate objects in all directions.
Site Preparation
Purple coneflowers are adaptable and can withstand most circumstances. Plants will grow, though, if you provide them with rich, well-drained soil and lots of sunlight. Before planting, the soil should be heavily amended with organic compost or aged animal dung to greatly increase the health of the plants (watch Flower Gardening from the Ground Upvideo). Coneflowers can withstand both heat and dryness.
How to Plant
It is simple to grow echinacea from seed, nursery stock, or division. In the open while a light frost is still possible, sow seeds 1/2 inch deep. Seed germination takes 10 to 20 days. If seeds are sowed early, flowers will usually blossom in their first year (see Summer Flowers for Color).
To prolong the blooming season, regularly pinch off spent blooms or utilize them as cuttings in flower arrangements. To encourage large, gorgeous blossoms, use a high-quality flower fertilizer multiple times during the planting season. Mulch reduces weed growth, retains moisture, and enhances aesthetics.
Insect & Disease Problems
Many garden pests, such as Japanese beetles, aphids, and leaf hoppers, are dangerous to echinacea. For a safe and sensible approach to pest control, check frequently and, if issues arise, take the following actions:
- To remove substitute hosts, remove weeds and other garden trash.
- Put seriously afflicted plants in the garbage after bagging them up safely.
- To combat and eliminate insect pests, release beneficial insects that are readily available.
Coneflowers are difficult to develop from seeds.
Many gardeners like growing purple coneflowers. Botanically known as Echinacea purpurea, this perennial native to North America blooms in late summer with vivid magenta blossoms that attract bees and butterflies.
However, there are several cultivars and variations of this plant that produce blooms in a wide variety of hues, including white, yellow, orange, and red. The straight species is my particular favorite. There are numerous additional Echinacea species, and each one has its own distinct qualities.
Coneflowers in pots are frequently seen in neighborhood nurseries and garden centers, but if you have a sizable yard to cover with these vibrant perennials or if you enjoy a good gardening challenge, you could think about starting them from seed rather than buying plants. Coneflowers can be grown from seeds with the proper method. You can either save the seed from your own plants or a friend’s plants, or you can buy coneflower seeds from a variety of seed suppliers.
Once you have the seeds, you can try a few different techniques to boost the likelihood of success and the rate of seed germination.
Many diverse perennial seeds must undergo a procedure known as cold-moist stratification in order to emerge from dormancy. For the most part, many perennials have a tough seed coat and genetic programming that prevent the seeds from sprouting at the incorrect period (say, during a mid-winter warm spell). The seeds must be subjected to an extended period of cold temperatures and moist conditions in order to germinate.
Like many other perennials, coneflower seeds do not require this dormancy-breaking period of freezing temperatures in order to germinate, but treating the seeds with a cold-moist stratification will greatly increase the germination rates. Coneflower seeds have significantly higher germination rates after being exposed to 40 degrees F for around two months.
The first step is to combine the seeds with some damp sand, place the mixture in a plastic bag with a zipper cover, and refrigerate the bag for 8 to 10 weeks. Plant the seeds outdoors in the garden or indoors under grow lights when spring arrives.
The seeds can also be planted in potting soil-filled containers or flats, watered, and then covered with a clear plastic bag and stored in the refrigerator for 8 to 10 weeks. After the critical period has passed, remove the container from the refrigerator and place it in a room that is about 70 degrees under grow lights. Remove the plastic after approximately 10 to 14 days, when the seeds begin to sprout, and continue to care for the seedlings until they are big enough to be transplanted into the garden.
The last and most straightforward approach is to just scatter the seeds outside in the fall. Place the seeds where you want the mature plants to grow, then enclose the area with a small ring of fencing to prevent animals from discovering the seeds. The seeds will naturally be exposed to the proper temperatures for the appropriate amount of time, and when they are good and ready in the spring, they will germinate.
Coneflower seeds can be grown without being exposed to a cold-moist stratification, and you’ll probably achieve an OK rate of germination. However, by using these suggestions, 100% germination is a straightforward goal.
Help us continue to cover the stories that concern you and your neighborhood by supporting local journalism.
Coneflowers are they dispersed by seed?
I’ve cultivated countless coneflowers of various types over the years. I now fully understand how coneflowers proliferate and how to handle them. So let me share what I’ve discovered with you.
Coneflowers reproduce through self-seeding and developing a deeper root system. Coneflowers do not, however, spread their roots and take over gardens (rhizomes). Each Spring, a coneflower plant may produce several seedlings, and its root mass may enlarge by one to two diameters. However, it won’t produce runner roots.
So, if you’re interested in learning how far a coneflower will spread, continue reading and check out the images.
Can coneflower seeds be saved?
Take up the challenge of growing coneflowers from seed. Coneflower seeds are fairly obvious in gardens. They are hidden inside the sharp, spherical balls that remain when flower petals wilt. Echinacea seeds aren’t difficult to gather, and with the right techniques, they’re even simpler to grow. Find out how to collect and nurture coneflower seeds.
The garden is awash in a variety of flower hues and plant sizes thanks to modern coneflower cultivars. However, it’s a good idea to start with one of the straight species, such purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) or Tennessee coneflower, if you intend to grow coneflower seeds (Echinacea tennesseensis). Strong viability means that there is a good chance that these coneflower seeds will sprout.
Many contemporary hybrids’ echinacea seeds are only partially viable and occasionally sprout. Hybrids can occasionally be infertile. Additionally, keep in mind that hybrids do not reproduce from seed, so planting hybrid coneflower seeds may not result in the precise plant you desire. Include at least two different coneflower plants in your garden if you intend to save seeds because all coneflowers have a certain proportion of sterile seeds.
Snip flower stalks after petals have fallen off to preserve coneflower seeds. Cut the stem as long as you can. This stem should be inserted into a paper bag with the spikey flower head facing the bottom of the bag. More than one stem can fit in a single bag. Using a rubber band, twist tie, or piece of twine, secure the bag around the stem’s base. The bag should be hung in a basement, dry garage, or closet. Seeds from dried flower heads will drop into the bag. The coneflower seed looks like a little white triangle.
After the seeds have germinated, separate them from the dreary chaff and let them air dry for a few days. Echinacea seeds should be kept in a cool, dry area. Put seeds in sealed jars and place them in the refrigerator for long-term preservation. Coneflower seeds are best planted within a year of harvest, even though they can be stored for as least seven years.
Even plant scientists disagree on the subject of whether the stratification process is necessary for the germination of coneflower seeds. Many backyard growers who use winter sowing techniques report great germination outcomes. Seedlings should be separated and tucked into the garden in the spring. Additionally, you can move seedlings into pots to allow them to mature before being incorporated into a landscape planting. This is a smart move if your garden attracts animals that eat plants, such as deer, squirrels, or rabbits.
Since many of the new coneflower hybrids are patented types, it is against the law to produce more of them. Plant patent owners normally have nothing against a home gardener cultivating a few coneflower plants from seed for their own garden. But you shouldn’t increase the number of patented coneflowers for sale or for use by others.
Allowing seed heads to ripen and dry on plants is another method for growing coneflower seeds. Break separate seed heads in the fall and scatter seeds where you wish new coneflowers to appear. Alternately, let coneflowers self-seed naturally. When produced from seed, the majority of coneflowers take two growing seasons to flower.