Purple plants, in particular, have always appealed to me, even before it became Pantone’s color of the year. Purple fountain grass and Persian shield are two of my favorites. It’s easy to see why when you see those iridescent purple leaves!
Persian shields (Strobilanthes dyerianus) are really a show-stopper in my garden, bringing color and interest throughout the year. I propagate cuttings from the one plant I bought a few years ago in early spring instead of buying new plants every year (because they’re annuals in my zone).
Stella is her name. This plant spends the entire year indoors, and I utilize its cuttings to propagate new plants for outdoor containers and to give away to friends and family. There’s no bigger win for this crazy plant lady than saving money and obtaining new plants! Here’s how to do it:
Step 1:Cut a 2-3 piece from the tip of a branch above a leaf node.
I came across multiple websites recommending to cut slightly below a leaf node when researching how to spread Persian shield. However, based on my own experience, I’ve discovered that the optimal reaction – for both the plant and the cutting is directly above a node.
The cutting will begin to root at the point where it was cut, with each node submerged in water. Meanwhile, the plant will fill out with two new leaves at the trimmed place, making the plant fuller.
The cutting rooted fine when I followed the Internet’s directions and cut just below a node, however the plant’s stem was stunted and failed to continue developing. The good news is that most plants are tolerant of mistakes. If you cut the wrong area and end up with a stub, you can typically rectify it by cutting the stem lower down in the correct one.
Step 2:Remove all leaves from the bottom of stems and place in water.
Instead of directly planting cuttings in soil, peat, or sand, I submerge them in water until roots grow. Instead of using rooting hormone, I simply lay the cuttings near a bright, warm window. Make sure to change the water every two to three days, and roots should appear in approximately a week.
Step 3:Transfer to soil.
I (perform a joyful dance and) place these vulnerable newborns in little pots of soil to strengthen and thrive when the roots are about 1/21 long.
Fill the container with potting mix to approximately an inch below the rim, making sure it has drainage holes. With your finger, poke a hole in the earth and insert a cutting into it, firming the soil around the stem. Once all of the cuttings have been planted, give the pot a good drink, drain it, and return it to the sunny window. Continue to water the soil as needed to keep it moist.
Step 4:Plant outdoors.
When the Persian shield cuttings have outgrown their little pots and the danger of frost has passed, they can be planted outside in containers or straight in the ground. When they’re first released outside, they’ll be a little shocked, but with time, they’ll adjust and thrive.
Purple fountain grass, pink pentas, and lime green sweet potato vine adorn this one. (Learn more about outdoor container gardening here.)
Despite the fact that Persian shield can withstand the sun, it is best to provide some shade to keep its beautiful foliage.
Can you grow Persian shield from a cutting?
This wonderful plant is simple to share with friends and family. Seeds or cuttings are used to propagate Persian shields. Cutting just below a growth node, cut 2 to 3 inch (5-8 cm) portions off the plant’s tops.
Remove the bottom leaves and place the cut in a non-soil medium like peat. Mist the medium and cover the cutting with a bag. To keep the cutting from molding, remove the bag for one hour each day. The cutting will sprout roots in a few weeks, and you can replant it in potting soil.
Is Persian shield easy to propagate?
Follow these simple instructions for propagating Persian Shield plants so that your shade or part-sun garden is a gorgeous sea of iridescent green and purple all summer long!
Persian shield is a simple plant to propagate because it is a hardy, fast-growing species. You can start with small plants and grow them into large examples to fill your garden bed by the end of the season.
To try your hand at propagating Persian Shield, you’ll need the following items:
How do you root Persian shield cuttings?
Find a healthy branch and cut the tip off, leaving about 3 inches of branch. The best results are usually obtained by cutting just above a node on the stem. It speeds up the rooting of the cuttings and makes it easier for the cut branch to flush out with new growth. Also, make sure the stem you’re cutting isn’t too soft or fragile, but also not too woody or stiffened.
After that, you’ll want to remove the bottom half of the branches to reveal the stem. To initiate the rooting process, apply rooting hormone powder to the stem and then set it in well-drained potting soil or sand. Putting the stems in a cup of fresh, clean water is a simpler and more orderly method. You’ll need to keep the dirt or sand damp but not soggy as the roots form, and you’ll need to check on them after a week to see how they’re doing. When cuttings are introduced in water, their growth can be easily observed, making it easy to determine when the roots have established themselves.
How do you make a Persian shield bushy?
Fertilizer works wonders for Persian shield plants. During the peak season, feed your Persian shield plant nitrogen every two weeks, but you can skip it in the winter and fall.
The natural bushiness of a Persian shield plant is one of its most appealing features. You may, however, make it look even bushier by pinching the stems back every now and then.
Why is my Persian shield dying?
If your plant doesn’t get enough water, it will quickly wilt, and you’ll notice it. If this occurs, increase your watering frequency to compensate, making sure to maintain the soil moist and the humidity around the plant at a high level. Even when it’s in horrible shape, it rebounds back rapidly.
As previously said, too much light can cause your strobilanthes dyeriana’s leaves to fade. Shielding it from direct sunlight can help to alleviate the condition. It’s natural for the coloring of older leaves to fade before they fall off.
How do you keep the Persian shield purple?
Light. In partial shade, Persian shield will absorb light and reflect it back onto its leaves. It requires intense light to maintain its color if maintained indoors.
Is Persian shield poisonous to dogs?
Persian Shield is often a safe choice for properties and households with children, pets, and livestock. Although there is no evidence that this plant is harmful, some anecdotal reports claim that the sap can irritate the skin.
It’s usually a good idea to use gloves and wash your hands after handling any plant. Persian Shield isn’t any different.
Wear garden gloves whenever you pinch the Persian Shield Strobilanthes dyerianus plant back, take cuttings, or otherwise handle it. After you’ve finished touching this plant, wash your hands.
Is Persian shield perennial?
Strobilanthes dyerianus is a delicate perennial with iridescent purple leaves that adds drama to any garden. This evergreen subshrub in the acanthus family (Acanthaceae) with the common name Persian Shield has been planted for its attractive foliage indoors and out since Victorian times. It is mainly used as a seasonal annual or as a houseplant in colder locations, as it is only hardy to zone 10 (maybe root hardy to zone 8).
When the weather is mild, Persian shield languishes, but when the weather is hot and humid, it swiftly grows into a huge, bushy, mounded plant. This soft-stemmed herbaceous shrub can reach a height of 5 feet and a width of 3 feet when planted in containers or in cooler climes, but it usually stays considerably smaller.
The lance-shaped leaves on the opposite side have lightly serrated edges and pronounced veins, giving them a quilted appearance. The foliage is a deep purple, lilac, and green with silvery highlights on older leaves, giving the upper surface a distinctive metallic or iridescent luster. The lower leaf surface is purple-maroon in color. Individual leaves grow to be 6-8 inches long and have the best color in warmer weather. Plants acquire woody stems as they mature, and the hue of the foliage tends to fade, so it’s best to start with new plants or take cuttings every year to get the most attractive foliage.
Older plants produce short conical spikes of tiny blooms raised above the foliage in moderate areas in the fall and winter. The five-lobed flowers are pale blue to violet in color and have two, three, or four stamens. The flowers arise from sticky brachts and open progressively along the spike, allowing the plant to bloom for an extended period of time. After a while, the wasted blossoms turn brown, making them unattractive for a long time. Floral buds emerge from every node once the plant produces spikes, and the stems can no longer be used for propagation. Plants are difficult to return to the vegetative stage. Bud initiation is unpredictable, and the elements that cause reproduction are unknown.
For foliar contrast, Persian shield is a nice addition to bigger gardens. It contrasts beautifully with variegated, lime-green or chartreuse-colored foliage. For a monochromatic design, pair the purple leaves with pink, lavender, or purple flowers, such as purple flowered lantana or Verbena bonariensis, or with yellow or orange flowers, such as Tithonia or marigolds, for a high contrast look. For a more refined aesthetic, the silvery highlights on the leaves mirror white flowers or white to silvery foliage, such as lamb’s ears, dusty miller, or silver Plectranthus.
Plant it alongside coleus (such as one with lime green leaves with purple veins and margins), or mix it with caladiums, elephant ears, and/or cannas for a dramatic, tropical appearance. It can be used as a temporary specimen planting in the landscape or around ponds, or it can be used to big mixed container plantings if its growth is regulated.
In northern places, plant Persian shield in full sun; in southern states, it prefers moderate shade. If it becomes overly leggy, it can be pinched back, but this is usually not a concern when grown as a seasonal annual. Provide a soil that is rich in organic matter, has good drainage, and receives plenty of water. Plants should be spaced 18-24 inches apart. Fertilize once a month. Persian shield has few pests and is said to be unappealing to deer and rabbits. Spider mites, aphids, and mealybugs can all infest indoor plants. In frigid locations, this plant may typically be kept over the winter by digging it up in the fall (long before the first frost) and storing it indoors in moderate light. Plants may lose all of their leaves, but they should reappear in the spring from the roots.
Cuttings are commonly used to propagate this plant, but it can also be cultivated from seed. Early spring or summer basal or softwood cuttings root quickly in water or damp medium. Cuttings can also be collected late in the summer or early in the fall and brought indoors to overwinter.
There are about 250 other Strobilanthes species, including S. maculates from the Himalayas, which has silver-splotched leaves, and S. lactates from Brazil, which has white blotched leaves, but none of these are widely available as ornamentals.
Can Persian shield grow in full shade?
Persian shield thrives in both the sun and the shade. It requires constant watering when planted in full sun, especially in warmer areas, to keep it from wilting. Spread a 3- to 4-inch-deep layer of mulch over the soil around the Persian shield plant to make it easier to grow. This helps to keep the soil cool and moist for a longer period of time. If you grow Persian shield in pots, you can do the same thing!
Use a general-purpose fertilizer to fertilize Persian shield in the spring. For information on how much and how often to fertilize, refer to the package instructions.
Persian shield can be pruned at any time. Pinching it back every now and again promotes the plant to grow fuller and bushier, especially in the shade.
In Zone 10, Persian shield can be used as a landscape shrub. Grow it as an annual in other places.