Here is professional guidance on how to put hydrangeas to bed for the winter season from guest bloggers Megan Nichols and Jessie Jacobson of Tonkadale Greenhouse in Minnetonka, Minnesota. (They may have more hydrangea trees and shrubs in their zip code than almost anywhere else in the United States, so they are aware!)
The temperature has dropped, and autumnal symbols can be seen everywhere. The garden needs to be put to bed soon. Hydrangeas reward us with large, stunning, and prodigious blooms all season long. You may say that they are givers. It’s time to return the favor now. It’s time to tuck the hydrangeas in with kisses and wishes for sweaty dreams.
Here in Minnesota, our moods can fluctuate as drastically as the unpredictably harsh winter weather extremes, snowfall, and freeze/thaw cycles. Despite the fact that many hydrangeas are regarded as hardy, all of this can confuse them. To survive the winter and come back bigger and better the next year, they require some care. Although hydrangeas cultivated in warmer areas don’t need as much post-season primping as those grown in our zone, there isn’t a single thing that wouldn’t appreciate a little tender loving care right now.
Utilize these suggestions to get the most out of your hydrangeas so that you can be the one to present at this time next season!
(Is pruning in order? No and yes. Here is our recommendation for which hydrangeas should be pruned right away and which should wait until spring.)
Don’t Stop Watering
Make a commitment! I shall water my hydrangeas till the earth freezes solid, you declare while raising your right hand. really good Hydrangeas are thirsty plants by nature, so it’s essential to give them regular, deep watering. We don’t need to get all linguistically nerdy right now, but their name literally means “hydration.” Winter’s cool, dry winds completely drain the moisture from the vegetation, and hydrangeas don’t use lip balm. It need not be heated in order to be dry!
If a freeze is not a concern where you live, water deeply but sparingly during the winter depending on how much rain you get.
This is how: Making a small hole in the side of a 5-gallon bucket, filling it with water, and placing it at the base of the plant while it slowly drips out of the bucket is one method. Another option is to lay your hose at the base of the plant for about an hour with the water turned on to a gentle drip.
Give Them One Last Hearty Meal
Composting your hydrangea beds in the fall will give them a boost for the upcoming growing season. Everyone feels better after a full night’s sleep and a filling breakfast. This also applies to hydrangeas. After a lengthy winter’s hibernation, they will be ravenous for some nice compost. Compost can decompose during the winter if it is used now, making nutrients easily accessible in spring. A few inches of compost is advisable even in regions without a deep cold. Only compost is being discussed here! Don’t give your hydrangeas fertilizers that are high in nitrogen because this can encourage them to produce new foliage growth.
This is how: Before laying down mulch in colder climates, top dress the area with compost, well-aged manure, or other organic material after the ground has frozen. This organic fertilizer, which is rich in nutrients, will decompose over the winter, making nutrients available to the plant in the spring. Apply compost in the late fall or early winter in zones that are warmer.
Mulch Matters
Mulching helps keep moisture in and weeds out in warmer climates while shielding the crown and roots of your hydrangeas from harsh winter temperatures in colder climates. Snow serves as a natural insulator if everything goes as it should. Plants suffer during strange winters with little snowfall and extreme temperature changes. Apply a thick layer of mulch around the plant’s base to offer hydrangeas the best chance of flourishing. While decorative mulch is useful, straw, marsh hay, or dead leaves are suggested instead.
This is how: Apply a 6–8 layer of mulch once the ground has frozen (or late fall or early winter in zones with milder winters). This shields plants from the heave-ho of springtime freeze/thaw cycles, which can yank them out of the ground. Inviting mice to make this their snug winter home, causing rotting and illness, or tricking the plant into believing it’s time to bud, are all consequences of mulching too early. Be patient; you don’t have to do things early simply because your neighbors are.
Keep Them Cozy
The amount of winter cold determines whether or not hydrangeas require protection. Winter protection is not required in zone 7 if the air temperature stays above zero degrees. Wrap or totally cover barely hardy hydrangeas in chilly areas. This is crucial for plants that bloom on old wood, such hydrangeas with mop heads and large leaves (Hydrangea macrophylla). The most recent types of mop head/big leaf hydrangeas, however, bloom on both fresh and old wood, so it’s important to keep that in mind. In their favor and ours! Hardier hydrangea varieties like the paniculata and arborescens don’t often require additional winter care, although really low temperatures might cause its limbs to die back. Consider covering if a colder than usual winter is forecast.
This is how: Wrap plants loosely in a few layers of burlap, making sure to tie it off with strong twine. Making a mulch mountain and covering the majority of the plant is an additional choice. Smaller, newly planted specimens respond well to this technique.
There’s Still Time To Plant!
The first three varieties of hydrangeas can be grown here in Zone 4; oak leaf hydrangeas can also be grown in warmer climates (zones 5 to 9). The optimal time to plant shrubs is in the fall. Just make sure to do all of the aforementioned things, including watering and mulching.
Here are some of our favorites that you can plant now for stunning blooms the following spring.
Panicle Hydrangeas
These late blooming hydrangeas, sometimes known as PeeGee hydrangeas (summer into early fall). They are covered in elongated, conical flower heads that emerge white or green and blush into pinks and peaches as the season goes on.
When ought my hydrangeas to be covered?
The greatest places to grow hydrangeas are warm winters with few days below freezing. The plant needs protection to survive in the event of a freeze or if you are growing your hydrangea in a cooler area. Since hydrangeas develop their flower and leaf buds in the fall, freezing temperatures may cause the buds to die before they can bloom. In the end, the plant dies since there aren’t enough leaves to maintain it. The hydrangea can bloom every year if it is protected over the winter.
Before the ground freezes in the fall, spread a 4-inch layer of straw mulch all around the base of the hydrangea. Winter soil temperature is maintained by mulching, safeguarding hydrangea roots.
- The greatest places to grow hydrangeas are warm winters with few days below freezing.
- Winter soil temperature is maintained by mulching, safeguarding hydrangea roots.
To completely round the hydrangea, cut a length of concrete reinforcing mesh. To create a cylinder, coil the mesh around the plant and use wire to join the mesh’s ends.
Straw, peat moss, or dried leaves should be used to completely cover the hydrangea in the mesh cylinder. Throughout the winter, as the straw or leaves settle, replace them to keep the plant always covered.
Early in the spring, about four weeks before the last anticipated spring frost, remove the mesh cylinder and straw. The mesh cylinder should be removed as soon as early spring bulbs like crocuses and tulips start to bloom.
After the mesh is taken off, if any freezing temperatures are anticipated, protect the hydrangea with a burlap bag. When the weather starts to warm up again, uncover the hydrangea.
- To completely round the hydrangea, cut a length of concrete reinforcing mesh.
- Straw, peat moss, or dried leaves should be used to completely cover the hydrangea in the mesh cylinder.
In regions where frost is a rarity, covering the hydrangea with a burlap bag only needs to be done on the days or nights when frost is expected, and then the burlap bag should be removed.
Even if they are sheltered, hydrangea flower buds may not survive in locations that frequently experience winter cold, but leave buds almost certainly will, preventing the shrub from dying.
What degree of warmth should hydrangeas be covered in?
One of the simplest shrubs to grow is the hydrangea. Hydrangeas are easy maintenance plants that provide your garden with months of huge, bright flower decoration. However, it’s crucial to understand how to protect hydrangeas from cold as summer ends and winter sneaks up on us. This entails hydrangea cold tolerance. Some types, such as the panicle or PG hydrangea and the smooth hydrangea (“Annabelle”), are extremely cold-hardy and bloom on new wood.
You don’t need to be concerned about hydrangea winter kill if these species are present in your yard. They don’t need to be protected unless it is below minus 30 degrees Fahrenheit (-34 C.). In most cases, protecting these plants also involves leaving the old growth during the winter, which can contribute to the winter’s visual appeal.
The preceding growth season is when all of the other hydrangea kinds, including the well-liked big leaf, produce their flowers. For you to see blooming the following summer, these tender buds must endure the winter. You should find out how to avoid winter kill on hydrangeas if you plan to plant big leaf or another variety that blooms on old wood.
How do I keep my hydrangeas safe during the winter?
Since I’ve been doing a radio show on Pittsburgh’s KDKA Radio for ten years, the most frequent query my co-host and I get is “Why doesn’t my hydrangea bloom?
Upon further enquiry, we invariably discover the caller is looking for information on Hydrangea macrophylla, a big-leaf hydrangea. These traditional hydrangeas produce lovely balls of pink or blue flowers, but in the northern United States, they are infamous for their unpredictability. They can blossom wonderfully one year and not have a single bud the following. Here are some suggestions you can implement right away to improve the blooms on your hydrangea if you’re a gardener in USDA zones 5 or 6 and have had similar experiences.
1. With very few exceptions, Hydrangea macrophylla cultivars like the double-flowered variety “Paraplu” develop their flower buds on ancient wood. This implies that the buds inside those seemingly dead twigs are actually the blossoms for the following year. Future blossoms are taken off if any branches are pruned now or in the spring. The optimum pruning method for big-leaf hydrangeas, according to my radio co-host and I, is to do none at all.
2. Cold temperatures and drying winds can harm the dormant flower buds trapped inside those brown sticks. The sporadic late-spring freezes are particularly harmful. Put a layer of protection around the plant to safeguard the dormant buds on your hydrangea. Each plant should have four 1×1 hardwood stakes hammered into the ground. Burlap or black landscape fabric should then be stapled to the posts surrounding each plant. Make sure the fence is as least as high as the plant. Avoid covering the top; the weight of any accumulated snow could cause the entire structure to topple over onto your plant. Till the hydrangea’s buds begin to swell in late spring, keep this protective castle in place.
3.Big-leaf hydrangeas typically perform better if placed in a more protected area. If at all feasible, move any non-blooming specimens to a corner that is shielded from strong winds and close to a road or wall that absorbs heat. The optimum times to transfer hydrangeas are in the early spring, before the leaf appears, or in the fall, just before the ground freezes.
4.You might want to think about including a couple different species of hydrangeas in your landscaping for more dependable bloom production. A slightly hardier form known as hydrangea arborescent develops enormous white flower clusters that resemble snowballs. My favorite cultivar is “Annabelle.” The oak-leaf hydrangea, H. quercifolia, is another extremely dependable bloomer with magnificent fall color and white conical blooms. However, there are a few cultivars of H. macrophylla that are currently available that have been chosen for their ability to bloom on both old and new wood. With a more recent introduction dubbed “BloomStruck,” I’ve had the most success.
What is your favorite hydrangea, and how do you keep it safe during the winter?
What are hydrangeas used for in the fall and winter?
Short response? Just enough! However, we are aware that many who are unsure of whether to cut them down or remove the dried blooms won’t find this response to be particularly helpful. So, now that summer is over and October is here, here’s what you need to know about your hydrangeas.
2. Once your hydrangea flowers turn brown, you have two choices, regardless of the color of your flowers. Just below the bloom, you can either remove the dead flowers from the plant or leave them on it till winter. The majority of dried hydrangea blossoms fall off sometime over the winter, and any that are still attached to the plant can be picked off in the spring.
3. Avoid “tidying them up! You’ll have less flowers the next summer if you trim the stems now to make them look neater. Waiting until May to prune any hydrangea varieties is preferable, and for the blue and pink flowering mopheads and lacecaps, the only thing you should do at that time is remove any dead stems.
4. Fertilizing in the fall is a wise move.
When it’s growing season the following year, the shrubs will benefit from a little coating of Holly-tone around the plants.
5. Winter security? You have the choice. It has not been demonstrated that covering mopheads and lacecaps will be helpful if temperatures fall to zero or below, but a burlap windscreen may be able to block chilly winter and spring winds in exposed areas.
6. Tidy up! It’s always a good idea to rake up the fallen Hydrangea leaves. By doing this, the area is less likely to harbor disease and insects that overwinter. This is crucial for hydrangea foliage control on the Cape, where Chilli Thrips have been found to deface the leaves.
Mophead hydrangeas provide stunning blue, purple, and pink flowers in the fall that contrast with the changing leaves.
Brown blooms are optional; if they irritate you, you can clip them off.