Courtesy Image favored American variety: Large, spherical mop-head blooms with blue, lavender, pink, and red-pink hues, which bloom in late summer to early fall, are characteristic of big-leaf hydrangeas. The shrub produces vivid blue flowers in acidic soil. It normally grows up to 10 feet wide and 5–10 feet tall. It should be clipped after flowering because it blooms on stems from the previous year.
Midway through August, hydrangeas take the lead as annuals and some perennials start to fade.
We value hydrangeas for their stunning flowers, which, depending on the species, might resemble enormous, fluffy softballs or bi-colored, super-sized snow cones. However, they can be temperamental and seductive at times.
Hydrangeas can be seen thriving at botanical gardens, abandoned farmhouses, and along fences and garages.
There are about 23 different species of hydrangea, and plants can reach heights of 3 to 80 feet. Some can withstand temperatures as low as minus 30 degrees, while others can’t handle much lower than 25 degrees.
In the United States, only five are frequently grown. The variety with the biggest, mop-head flowers is the big-leaf hydrangea.
With a warning, they do well throughout the majority of Michigan. Zone 6 people can only handle temperatures below minus 10 to 15 degrees. Before winter, you should plant these in a protected area and cover them with a thick layer of mulch. Radiant heat creates a small microclimate that benefits hydrangeas placed close to the foundation.
Hydrangeas are wrongly removed by homeowners who believe the winter cold killed them off. When a severe spring freeze kills the new foliage, others reach for the trowel.
In addition to freezing damage, people frequently lament that their hydrangeas don’t bloom or that the color is pallid.
Despite variations in cultivars and temperament, they frequently share a few traits.
Rich, moist soil is ideal for hydrangeas. When shielded from ferocious winter winds and sweltering summer heat, they fare better.
While mature oak-leaf hydrangeas will endure moderate drought provided the roots are kept well-mulched, hydrangeas generally thrive in cold, damp climates. In hotter climates, shadow or partial shade lessens leaf and blossom burn.
HYDRANGEAS
Mid- to late summer brings bright flowers with this landscape favorite. Here are five well-liked bands that would go well in Michigan gardens:
Late summer to early October sees the blooming of the big-leaf hydrangea’s (H. macrophylla) large, rounded mop-head flowers in shades of blue, lavender, pink, and red-pink. blooms with a vivid blue hue on acidic soil. grows up to 10 feet wide and 5–10 feet tall. Blooms on stems from the previous year; prune after flowering.
Cone-shaped flowers on oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia) emerge white and develop pink tones over time. grows to a height of 3 to 6 feet and a wider spread. The foliage is like the oak leaves. Best hydrangea for sunny, dry soil. late winter or early spring pruning (Note: Although they flower on the growth of the new season, they can be clipped once flowering is finished.)
The Asian native saw-tooth hydrangea (H. serrata) thrives in colder regions. It also goes by the name “lacecaps,” and its flat, round “disks” of individual florets have blue or pink flowers. grows equally wide and 4 feet tall. favors some shade. Blooms on stems from the previous year; prune after flowering.
Hardy (panicle, pinnacle) hydrangea (H. paniculata): July through September sees the blossoming of enormous white, pyramid-shaped flowers. grows 10 feet wide and up to 15 feet tall in full sun to partial shade. A preferred brand is Lime Light. extremely resilient to the cold. Late fall or early spring pruning. The Pinky Winky dwarf cultivar is well-liked.
Native to North America, the smoothleaf hydrangea (H. arborescens) is distinguished for its enormous snowball blossoms. Green flowers turn into pristine white flowers. grows equally wide and 5 feet tall. utter to partial shade extremely resilient to the cold. late winter or early spring pruning
With the advent of compact, less erratic hybrids like Little Lime Hardy Hydrangea and Blue Bunny Bracted Hydrangea, both from the Proven Winners line, the plant’s appeal has increased.
“Even if you prune Blue Bunny to the ground before the summer, it will still bloom, according to Ryan McGarth, a communications specialist with Proven Winners. “The foliage has unusual “fuzzy” leaves and an appealing gray-green tint.
Incrediball and Little Lime hydrangeas are better choices for colder climates because they can withstand temperatures as low as minus 30 degrees.
Flowers from Incrediball
the size of mini-basketball throughout the summer and into the fall. When mature, the flowers on its new wood can generate over 100 sizable greenish-white blooms from midsummer till frost.
Lime-green Little Lime flowers turn pink as they ripen. It blooms on new wood and is compact, just like Incrediball.
The Proven Winners range of blooming shrubs was developed by Spring Meadow Nursery Inc. in Grand Haven. The first pink-flowered variation of the Invincibelle, Invincibelle Spirit is one of its most well-liked new releases “Hydrangea named Annabelle. It won “The Independent Garden Center Show in Chicago last August awarded Best of Show.
The plant and a marketing initiative to contribute $1 from each sale of Invincibelle Spirit to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation won over the judges’ favor.
Pinky Winky, Quick Fire, Cityline Paris, Cityline Venice, and Let’s Dance Starlight are further varieties of hydrangea sold under the Proven Winners brand.
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Hydrangeas with huge leaves and oak leaves required space. Plants should be spaced at least four feet apart, and there should be four feet of headroom.
Big-leaf hydrangeas bloom on wood that was created the summer before. Early spring pruning results in fresh growth but few blossoms. When big-leaf hydrangeas have finished blooming but before the buds for the following year have formed, prune them in the summer. Dead wood can always be removed by pruning.
In addition to a paucity of blossoms, a typical issue is flowers that are a different hue from what is depicted on the nursery label.
Instead of being a blue flower as expected, this one is a sickening shade of pink, like underwear that has been washed with a red Ohio State T-shirt.
Regardless of hybrids, the pH of the soil determines the color of the flowers. Flowers with a deep blue hue are produced by acidic soil. The pinkish-white color is a result of alkaline soil.
To increase the acidity of the soil, add aluminum sulfate to the soil. If your soil is acidic and you want your blossoms to be a touch more pink, apply lime.
Tim Wood, new product development manager for Spring Meadow Nursery, recommends against getting overly fixated on flowers when planting; long-term health is more crucial.
“Wood advised building up a robust, bushy plant before worrying about the flowers with all varieties of hydrangeas. “Pruning is especially crucial during the first few years following planting since it lays the groundwork for future years.
He advised pinching or pruning the hydrangea when it was young to develop a robust, well-branched shrub. “In the long run, you get twice as many branches and more flowers when you cut off a plant’s growth tip, according to Wood.
Leggy plants can be cut back by a third to a half of their original size. “Pinch the branch tips to eliminate only the growing tip once it grows an inch or two, he advised. “This point regulates branching. Two or more stems will grow from the buds at the bottom.
In order to allow flower buds to form, Wood advises pinching or light shearing the second year. Then, stop.
“This method produces a well-branched, well-bodied plant that will have more flowers in following years, despite the potential bloom sacrifice, according to Wood.
In Michigan, when can hydrangeas be planted?
Hydrangeas have huge bloom heads and exude an old-fashioned elegance. How to plant and take care of beautiful floral bushes is explained in our hydrangea growing guide. Additionally, learn the answers to frequently asked questions like “why aren’t my hydrangeas blossoming this year?”
About Hydrangeas
These elegant plants are simple to grow, withstand nearly any sort of soil, and produce an abundance of blossoms that are unmatched in the world of shrubs for their stunning flowers. Clear blue, vivid pink, frosty white, lavender, and rose blossoms sometimes grow on the same plant, enticing us with their colors.
From container gardens to shrub borders to group plantings, hydrangeas are great for a variety of garden locations. Breeders seem to give us more possibilities every year, and gardeners have countless expectations for bloom size and color. Varieties abound. Pay attention to the species listed below to get an idea of how your hydrangea will develop as some require different maintenance. The joys you experience will be enhanced when you know what to expect.
Enjoy this tribute to hydrangea beauty and read our guide below to discover how to grow hydrangeas.
Where to Plant Hydrangeas
- The majority of hydrangeas like fertile, moisture-rich soils that drain well. Compost can help improve bad soil.
- Hydrangeas typically prefer some sun. In an ideal world, they would receive full sun in the morning and then some afternoon shade to avoid the intense midday sun. The Bigleaf Hydrangea (H. macrophylla), with its huge, prone-to-wilting leaves, is a prime example of this. Some kinds can withstand more direct sunlight.
- Depending on the kind, place hydrangeas anywhere between 3 and 10 feet apart. Plants should always be spaced according to their anticipated mature size!
When to Plant Hydrangeas
- The optimum season to plant hydrangeas is in the fall, followed by spring. The cooler shoulder seasons are the ideal times to plant shrubs because they will have plenty of time to build a strong root system before the intense heat of summer or the bitter cold of winter.
- In the early morning or late afternoon, plant the shrubs. The plant is less prone to experience heat stress from direct sunshine because it is typically cooler.
How to Plant Hydrangeas
- Gently remove the hydrangea from its container and examine the root ball. Snip off any rotten or dead sections, and if the plant is very root-bound, pry the roots free.
- Make a hole that is two to three times as big and as deep as the root ball. The top of the planting hole should be level with the base of the plant, which is where the stem joins the earth.
- After placing the plant in the hole, add enough soil to fill it halfway. generously hydrate. Fill the remaining space in the hole with soil once the water has been absorbed.
- once more, thoroughly rinse.
How to Grow Hydrangeas from Cuttings
Cuttings of hydrangeas can be easily grown. They easily take root, and the process is a wonderful teaching tool for propagation. This is how you do it:
- Find a branch on a mature hydrangea that is fresh growth and has not flowered. In comparison to older growth, new growth will appear lighter in color, and the stem won’t be as firm.
- Make a horizontal incision 4 to 5 inches down from the branch’s tip. Make sure your cutting has at least three to four pairs of leaves.
- Trim the cutting’s lowest pair of leaves so that they are flush with the stem. If you can afford to remove more than one pair of leaves, do so. Roots develop more readily from these leaf nodes. But make sure to leave at least two pairs of leaves at the cutting’s tip.
- Remove the tip half of any leaves that are still pretty large by cutting them in half. This keeps the leaves from slamming into the sides of the plastic bag you’ll later use to cover the cutting (to keep the humidity up).
- (Optional) Sprinkle rooting hormone and a plant antifungal powder on the stem’s leafless area (both available at a local hardware or garden store). This will promote roots and deter decay.
- Prepare a small pot and put moistened potting soil inside. The cutting should be planted in the ground, buried down to the first remaining pair of leaves. Lightly water the area surrounding the stem to close any air spaces.
- Wrap a plastic bag loosely around the entire pot. To prevent the cutting’s leaves from rotting, make sure the bag is not touching them. The bag can be supported by chopsticks or other such objects to keep it off the leaves.
- Put the pot in a warm location that is protected from the wind and sun.
- Only rewater your cutting after the top layer of soil is dry after checking on it every few days to make sure it isn’t decaying. In a few weeks, hopefully, the cutting will start to root! If you feel resistance when you gently tug on the cutting, roots have grown.
Watering
- Make sure hydrangeas get enough water for the first year or two after planting and throughout any droughts.
- Over the course of the growing season, water at a rate of 1 inch per week. Three times a week of heavy watering is preferable to shallow watering. Root growth is promoted by this.
- All varieties of hydrangeas benefit from constant moisture, but bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas need more water.
- If the soil is too dry, the leaves will wilt, and there won’t be enough moisture for the flowers to bloom.
- To water thoroughly while keeping moisture off the flowers and leaves, use a soaker hose.
- The best time to water hydrangeas is in the morning to protect them from disease and get them ready for the heat of the day.
- Under your hydrangeas, spread organic mulch to help keep the soil cool and moist, gradually add nutrients, and enhance soil texture.
Fertilizing
You might not need to fertilize hydrangeas if your soil is rich. When fertilizer is applied in excess, blossoms are sacrificed in favor of green growth. A soil test is the most effective tool for determining your fertility requirements.
Apply fertilizer according to the type of hydrangeas you have. Every variety has varied requirements and will profit from applying fertilizer at various times.
- Several mild fertilizer applications in March, May, and June are beneficial for bigleaf hydrangeas.
- Two applications in April and June work best for oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas.
- The only time smooth hydrangea plants require fertilizing is in the late winter.
Winter Protection
- Cover plants with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw in the fall, at least 18 inches deep. If at all feasible, create cages out of chicken wire or snow fencing and cover the entire plant, including the tip, with the cages. (Avoid using maple leaves; they have a tendency to mat after becoming wet and may suffocate the plant.)
How to Prune a Hydrangea
Many of the queries from readers concern hydrangea trimming. It makes sense that it’s unclear because it relies on the hydrangea kind. Fortunately, identifying which type you have makes determining the best pruning strategy simple. Discover the fundamentals below, then read more about pruning different varieties of hydrangea here.
Pruning Common Hydrangeas
The Bigleaf cultivar of Hydrangea macrophylla is the most popular garden hydrangea shrub. (For more, see below.)
Hydrangeas with large leaves, such as Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), Oakleaf (H. quercifolia), Mountain (H. serrata), and Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris), are pruned AFTER the summer blooms have passed. On stems from the previous season, these kinds bloom (“old wood).
- Avoid pruning after August 1 since flower buds actually grow in the late summer and bloom the next season.
- Dead wood should only be removed in the fall or very early spring.
- To stimulate branching and fullness, trim one or two of the oldest stems by cutting them all the way to the ground.
- Pruning the stems all the way to the base is necessary if the plant is old, neglected, or injured. For the following season, you’ll lose the flowers, but you’ll also revive the plant for subsequent ones.
- The huge Mopheads should not be deadheaded (faded flowers removed); instead, you should leave them over the winter and trim them back in the early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). Deadheading Lacecaps is OK; simply trim down to the second set of leaves below the bloom head.
- Avoid pruning unless it is absolutely required while growing H. macrophylla (and H. serrata) cultivars in Zones 4 and 5, and then only after blooming. If not, merely remove dead stems in the spring.
Pruning Other Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas called Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) are clipped BEFORE flower buds develop. On stems from the current season, these kinds blossom (“new wood).
- When the plant is dormant in the late winter, prune. The plant will therefore grow new buds in the spring that will result in blossoms even if the winter kills the buds.
- In general, avoid pruning to “shape the bush” and just remove dead branches.