One of the most popular plants among Southerners is the French hydrangea. We enjoy growing, clipping, and sharing them with our loved ones. Big balloons of blue, pink, purple, and white blossoms appear to float up like magic from the rich green leaves of these shrubs during the warm summer days. Most of us remember French hydrangeas, or mopheads, flourishing in our grandmother’s yard because of their globular, vividly colored flowers. The flowers on lace cap hydrangeas, a relative of mopheads, appear to float above the foliage in flat, delicate-looking clusters. They have an airy, light aspect that draws bees and butterflies to the yard.
Both mopheads and lacecaps produce lovely displays both in cut bouquets and in the garden. Follow these instructions for planting and caring for both new and established hydrangea plants to ensure a wealth of lovely blooms for years to come.
Choose a quality plant.
In your neighborhood nursery, seek for French hydrangeas that have more than simply gorgeous blossoms. Pick a mature plant that has balanced branching on all sides. The stems should be covered in plump buds or flower heads that are about to bloom or open in late spring and early summer. Bright green leaves that are not drooping are ideal (an indicator that the plant may not have been watered regularly). In order to produce hydrangeas that bloom quickly and out of season so they can be marketed on Mother’s Day, some of them have been designed and produced in greenhouses. Even though they are lovely, they might not be suitable for gardens and, if planted, they will struggle to keep up with the seasonal growth cycles.
Use good soil.
French hydrangeas appreciate soil that is moist, well-drained, and rich in organic matter, such peat or chopped leaves. Give your new plants a fighting chance by spending some time enriching your hard clay soil with organic stuff. Mulch plants to help keep roots cool and moisture stable, which is crucial when the heat of the late summer intensifies. To preserve moisture and control soil temperature, try to keep the mulch at a depth of about 3 inches. To ensure airflow and prevent rot, keep the mulch about four inches away from the plant’s base.
Plant in proper sunlight.
Hydrangeas should be planted in the South in areas that receive a lot of morning sunlight and afternoon shade. (These shrubs have few pests, but if planted in full sun, they may get spider mites.) Hydrangeas, especially mophead varieties, are susceptible to heat stress during hot weather, so be sure to water them frequently. In a seaside environment with cooling breezes, hydrangeas thrive.
Plant them well.
As soon as you get your plants home, water them, thoroughly moistening the soil. Before planting, plan out the location. The majority of French hydrangeas can be planted 3 to 4 feet apart, but you should check the tag to determine how big your choice will get. Create a hole that is the same depth as the pot and two to three times as wide. Put the plant in the hole’s middle after removing it from its container. With your fingertips, gently release the root-sides. ball’s Half of the original soil and half of the compost should be used to fill the hole. Mulch and water your plant frequently to aid in its establishment.
Accessorize your plants.
If you truly want to make your borders sing, team French hydrangeas with hostas in the foreground. They look beautiful in generous sweeps. Both enjoy lots of water and some shade. Other combinations: Use backdrops made of evergreens like purple loropetalums and camellias. In the foreground, ferns and striped monkey grass look fantastic.
Remember to prune.
French hydrangeas that only bloom once, like “Nikko Blue,” blossom on growth from the previous year. Just after summer blossoming, prune. French hydrangeas that bloom repeatedly include “All Summer Beauty” and “Big Daddy,” which produce flowers on both old and young growth. These can nearly always be pruned.
Protect them from cold.
If the winters in your area are extremely cold, you must protect your hydrangeas. You should consider using straw, wood mulch, or leaves to insulate your plants. To safeguard the flower buds that will open early the following year, pile mulch or leaves around your plants so that they are at least 12″ high. To ensure stunning blossoms in the spring, wait until all threat of frost has passed before uncovering. Follow the same procedures as if your hydrangeas were planted in the ground, but instead bring the entire pot inside your garage or a cool basement for the winter. Since they won’t get moisture from snow or rain during the winter, water sparingly.
Change the color.
Sometimes the blue hydrangea you purchased turns pink the following year and blooms. Your hydrangea is merely reacting to the pH of the soil. Pink flowers grow in alkaline soil, while blue blooms grow in acidic soil (pH 5.5 and lower) (pH 7 and higher). By adding aluminum sulfate to the soil surrounding your hydrangeas to make it acidic, you can alter the color. Make your soil more alkaline by adding lime. The pH of the soil has a different impact on various plant selections. White-flowered plants won’t change color.
What type of mulch should be used to surround hydrangeas?
Mulch excels as a superhero in the backyard garden. Even on the hottest days, it maintains soil moisture, prevents many troublesome weeds from growing close to plants, controls soil temperature, and even aids in preventing erosion. A heavy layer of mulch provides hydrangeas with the same protection that other garden plants do. Your hydrangeas will appreciate the mulch by growing better and producing nicer blooms if it is spread and maintained properly.
Choose a mulching substance. An organic mulch that decomposes and enriches the soil is beneficial for hydrangeas. Examples of organic mulches ideal for hydrangeas include compost, pine straw, and pine bark. Chopped leaves are another option.
Depending on the size of the material, apply the mulch 3 to 5 inches deep. Since a thicker layer could prevent enough air and water from reaching the soil, finer mulches with bits 1/2 inch or smaller should only be put to the soil to a depth of 3 inches. Medium mulch should be 4 inches deep and include particles no larger than 1 inches. Apply 5 inches for mulch that is coarser.
To completely cover the space underneath the canopy, spread the mulch around the shrubs. Leave 2 inches of space between the mulch and the hydrangea’s stem to reduce the chance of crown rot.
What is the key to hydrangea growth?
Hydrangeas have huge bloom heads and exude an old-fashioned elegance. How to plant and take care of beautiful floral bushes is explained in our hydrangea growing guide. Additionally, learn the answers to frequently asked questions like “why aren’t my hydrangeas blossoming this year?”
About Hydrangeas
These elegant plants are simple to grow, withstand nearly any sort of soil, and produce an abundance of blossoms that are unmatched in the world of shrubs for their stunning flowers. Clear blue, vivid pink, frosty white, lavender, and rose blossoms sometimes grow on the same plant, enticing us with their colors.
From container gardens to shrub borders to group plantings, hydrangeas are great for a variety of garden locations. Breeders seem to give us more possibilities every year, and gardeners have countless expectations for bloom size and color. Varieties abound. Pay attention to the species listed below to get an idea of how your hydrangea will develop as some require different maintenance. The joys you experience will be enhanced when you know what to expect.
Enjoy this tribute to hydrangea beauty and read our guide below to discover how to grow hydrangeas.
Where to Plant Hydrangeas
- The majority of hydrangeas like fertile, moisture-rich soils that drain well. Compost can help improve bad soil.
- Hydrangeas typically prefer some sun. In an ideal world, they would receive full sun in the morning and then some afternoon shade to avoid the intense midday sun. The Bigleaf Hydrangea (H. macrophylla), with its huge, prone-to-wilting leaves, is a prime example of this. Some kinds can withstand more direct sunlight.
- Depending on the kind, place hydrangeas anywhere between 3 and 10 feet apart. Plants should always be spaced according to their anticipated mature size!
When to Plant Hydrangeas
- The optimum season to plant hydrangeas is in the fall, followed by spring. The cooler shoulder seasons are the ideal times to plant shrubs because they will have plenty of time to build a strong root system before the intense heat of summer or the bitter cold of winter.
- In the early morning or late afternoon, plant the shrubs. The plant is less prone to experience heat stress from direct sunshine because it is typically cooler.
How to Plant Hydrangeas
- Gently remove the hydrangea from its container and examine the root ball. Snip off any rotten or dead sections, and if the plant is very root-bound, pry the roots free.
- Make a hole that is two to three times as big and as deep as the root ball. The top of the planting hole should be level with the base of the plant, which is where the stem joins the earth.
- After placing the plant in the hole, add enough soil to fill it halfway. generously hydrate. Fill the remaining space in the hole with soil once the water has been absorbed.
- once more, thoroughly rinse.
How to Grow Hydrangeas from Cuttings
Cuttings of hydrangeas can be easily grown. They easily take root, and the process is a wonderful teaching tool for propagation. This is how you do it:
- Find a branch on a mature hydrangea that is fresh growth and has not flowered. In comparison to older growth, new growth will appear lighter in color, and the stem won’t be as firm.
- Make a horizontal incision 4 to 5 inches down from the branch’s tip. Make sure your cutting has at least three to four pairs of leaves.
- Trim the cutting’s lowest pair of leaves so that they are flush with the stem. If you can afford to remove more than one pair of leaves, do so. Roots develop more readily from these leaf nodes. But make sure to leave at least two pairs of leaves at the cutting’s tip.
- Remove the tip half of any leaves that are still pretty large by cutting them in half. This keeps the leaves from slamming into the sides of the plastic bag you’ll later use to cover the cutting (to keep the humidity up).
- (Optional) Sprinkle rooting hormone and a plant antifungal powder on the stem’s leafless area (both available at a local hardware or garden store). This will promote roots and deter decay.
- Prepare a small pot and put moistened potting soil inside. The cutting should be planted in the ground, buried down to the first remaining pair of leaves. Lightly water the area surrounding the stem to close any air spaces.
- Wrap a plastic bag loosely around the entire pot. To prevent the cutting’s leaves from rotting, make sure the bag is not touching them. The bag can be supported by chopsticks or other such objects to keep it off the leaves.
- Put the pot in a warm location that is protected from the wind and sun.
- Only rewater your cutting after the top layer of soil is dry after checking on it every few days to make sure it isn’t decaying. In a few weeks, hopefully, the cutting will start to root! If you feel resistance when you gently tug on the cutting, roots have grown.
Watering
- Make sure hydrangeas get enough water for the first year or two after planting and throughout any droughts.
- Over the course of the growing season, water at a rate of 1 inch per week. Three times a week of heavy watering is preferable to shallow watering. Root growth is promoted by this.
- All varieties of hydrangeas benefit from constant moisture, but bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas need more water.
- If the soil is too dry, the leaves will wilt, and there won’t be enough moisture for the flowers to bloom.
- To water thoroughly while keeping moisture off the flowers and leaves, use a soaker hose.
- The best time to water hydrangeas is in the morning to protect them from disease and get them ready for the heat of the day.
- Under your hydrangeas, spread organic mulch to help keep the soil cool and moist, gradually add nutrients, and enhance soil texture.
Fertilizing
You might not need to fertilize hydrangeas if your soil is rich. When fertilizer is applied in excess, blossoms are sacrificed in favor of green growth. A soil test is the most effective tool for determining your fertility requirements.
Apply fertilizer according to the type of hydrangeas you have. Every variety has varied requirements and will profit from applying fertilizer at various times.
- Several mild fertilizer applications in March, May, and June are beneficial for bigleaf hydrangeas.
- Two applications in April and June work best for oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas.
- The only time smooth hydrangea plants require fertilizing is in the late winter.
Winter Protection
- Cover plants with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw in the fall, at least 18 inches deep. If at all feasible, create cages out of chicken wire or snow fencing and cover the entire plant, including the tip, with the cages. (Avoid using maple leaves; they have a tendency to mat after becoming wet and may suffocate the plant.)
How to Prune a Hydrangea
Many of the queries from readers concern hydrangea trimming. It makes sense that it’s unclear because it relies on the hydrangea kind. Fortunately, identifying which type you have makes determining the best pruning strategy simple. Discover the fundamentals below, then read more about pruning different varieties of hydrangea here.
Pruning Common Hydrangeas
The Bigleaf cultivar of Hydrangea macrophylla is the most popular garden hydrangea shrub. (For more, see below.)
Hydrangeas with large leaves, such as Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), Oakleaf (H. quercifolia), Mountain (H. serrata), and Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris), are pruned AFTER the summer blooms have passed. On stems from the previous season, these kinds bloom (“old wood).
- Avoid pruning after August 1 since flower buds actually grow in the late summer and bloom the next season.
- Dead wood should only be removed in the fall or very early spring.
- To stimulate branching and fullness, trim one or two of the oldest stems by cutting them all the way to the ground.
- Pruning the stems all the way to the base is necessary if the plant is old, neglected, or injured. For the following season, you’ll lose the flowers, but you’ll also revive the plant for subsequent ones.
- The huge Mopheads should not be deadheaded (faded flowers removed); instead, you should leave them over the winter and trim them back in the early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). Deadheading Lacecaps is OK; simply trim down to the second set of leaves below the bloom head.
- Avoid pruning unless it is absolutely required while growing H. macrophylla (and H. serrata) cultivars in Zones 4 and 5, and then only after blooming. If not, merely remove dead stems in the spring.
Pruning Other Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas called Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) are clipped BEFORE flower buds develop. On stems from the current season, these kinds blossom (“new wood).
- When the plant is dormant in the late winter, prune. The plant will therefore grow new buds in the spring that will result in blossoms even if the winter kills the buds.
- In general, avoid pruning to “shape the bush” and just remove dead branches.