- ‘Walker’s Low’ plants are 30 inches tall and 36 inches wide, with lavender-blue flowers. As a side note, the name is not short because it derives from an Irish garden. It is actually almost as tall as the “Six Hills Giant.” Walker’s Low was chosen by the Perennial Plant Association as their Perennial of the Year for 2007.
Don’t restrict yourself to just these four options if you feel driven to hunt for catmint in your neighborhood garden centers. Numerous other top-notch cultivars are also readily available, including “Dropmore,” “Blue Wonder,” and “Junior Walker,” a scaled-down variety of “Walker’s Low” that stands 16 inches tall.
- Catmint tends to grow wider than tall, so give it lots of room.
- Even while catmint likes direct sunlight, it can also tolerate moderate afternoon shadow.
- Water new plants or transplants until they can survive on their own. Following that, established plants can withstand heat and drought.
- Never fertilize it again. Catmint prefers well-drained, somewhat fertile soil. In fact, a plant may flip over or split in half if the soil is excessively rich. In that case, trim the plant back to make it look neat. Compost added in the spring or fall will provide the plant the nutrients it needs to thrive.
- After the first blooming flush of the plants has finished, shear them back by a third or more. The plants will be more orderly, their size will be limited, and this will encourage a second rush of blossoms later in the summer. The plant will still bloom often and maintain its lovely appearance during the stifling summer months even without being sheared.
- Over the winter, keep any dead foliage in place to help protect the crown. Wait till the beginning of spring to trim it.
- Divide catmint every three to four years, preferably in the spring or early fall, to maintain it healthy. During the first growing season, until the plants take root, keep it well-watered.
- Catmint varieties can grow to be quite huge. Pinch the plant back in the spring after it has grown a few inches tall to encourage a bushier growth habit if you wish to limit the plant’s total size.
- Cut a vertical chunk off of an established clump of catmint in the spring to reproduce it. Make sure the division has a strong root system and a number of new shoots. Till the plant takes root, keep it well-watered.
- Cuttings can also be used to spread catmint. Before flower buds grow in the spring, clip healthy shoots at a length of three inches. The cuttings should be placed in a moist medium, such as sand or a peat-perlite mixture. Within two to three weeks, they should start to root.
- Catmint is typically unaffected by either pests or illnesses. The only issue that can occasionally arise is leaf spot. There is no consensus that the severity of this fungus illness justifies control measures.
- Experience has taught me that some cats are drawn to catmint. If you’re worried about this, cover newly planted or transplanted catmint with chicken wire to stop your cat from consuming it or rolling about in it.
- This plant attracts butterflies and bees like crazy. Additionally, hummingbirds adore it.
- You’ll adore this plant if your garden is plagued by four-legged animals other than cats. Deer, voles, and rabbits are deterred by the foliage’s minty aroma. THIS is a plant that pays for itself, at last!
How should catmint be used in the fall?
Catmint and I have a love-hate relationship. If you have a LOT of space for it to take over, it’s a terrific plant for providing cold tones to a space. Fortunately, catmint can be severely trimmed at any time of the year.
You can trim these back in the fall to just a few inches above the ground, but your garden will have a hole in it until they grow back flush in the spring.
If catmint is the cornerstone of your perennial border, regular summers pruning should be combined with more restrained trims of around half the plant’s height during the fall.
How are catmint plants divided and transplanted?
Increasing Catmint Plants of catmint will continue to thrive in terms of growth and blooming. But all Nepeta cultivars take to division well, so you can divide them to create new plants. Find a part of the plant in the spring that has underdeveloped branches and a strong root system. Use a spade to cut it vertically.
Can plants be moved during the fall?
According to recent study, the planting hole shouldn’t be modified unless the entire region is amended.
Although trees and shrubs can be transplanted throughout much of the country, fall is always the ideal season. The ideal conditions for establishment are chilly air and warm soil temperatures. Plants benefit from the cooler air, especially those that have recently lost a significant percentage of their roots due to digging. Additionally, the soil is still warm, which makes it ideal for the development of fresh root growth.
The fact that most plants and trees are starting to go dormant in the fall is another advantage of transplanting. Plants are now shifting energy into their roots and conserving nutrients and resources for the upcoming cool months rather than continuing to transfer energy into new leaves and aboveground growth.
The outcome should be a plant with a strong root system that can withstand the forthcoming demands of summer by spring. Here are a few more pointers to make sure all of your fall transplants are successful.
Dig a ten dollar hole for a one dollar plant whenever you transplant. Although not always simple, it is always worthwhile. Don’t make the planting hole any deeper than the plant was growing in its prior setting, but instead make it two to three times wider than the current root ball.
According to the most recent research-based data, you should not amend the hole with more organic material, in contrast to conventional planting techniques. In supplemented soil, plant roots hardly ever penetrate the more dense native soil. In a sense, the roots become spoiled and tend to remain just in the altered area. A less resilient plant and a smaller root system are the long-term effects.
Instead, only remove the rocks, split up the existing soil, and then backfill. According to studies, plant roots merely developing in the native soil are more likely to spread outside of the initial hole.
Place transplants at or just above the surrounding soil level in their new environment. Plants growing below grade are more susceptible to root rot and other diseases because newly disturbed soil has a propensity to settle. Instead of placing a plant in a bowl where it will gather excess water, it is preferable to plant a tree or shrub slightly higher and allow the area to drain.
To achieve proper soil to root contact, carefully press or hand-pack the soil around the plant roots. Watering thoroughly is an important step at this point. In addition to providing the necessary moisture, water also aids in removing air pockets that could otherwise lead to dead roots or even worse.
The last step is to mulch with 3 to 4 inches of organic material, like ground bark, shredded leaves, or straw. Mulch aids in moisture retention and maintains a stable soil temperature. Water throughout the winter if the soil becomes dry because winter conditions can be exceedingly dry. Soil moisture is crucial for healthy establishment while the roots are still forming.
The autumn is creative and the ideal time to move any plants you had in mind over the summer. You’ll be rewarded for your efforts the next spring and beyond, and it’s easier on you and the plants. Why wait around when the time is now?
Should I reduce catmint throughout the winter?
In many places, catmint dies back with the frost, and the dead growth needs to be removed in order to make room for the spring’s new, fresh foliage. Depending on the climate where you are, there are different times to do this. It is preferable to wait until the spring thaw to prune catmint in regions with long, hard winters since the dead growth can act as insulation from the cold.
When a plant has gone dormant or has died back due to the cold in a milder region, it is recommended to cut the entire plant back in the fall. Because division will occur with the winter pruning, keep an eye out during the growth season for indications that the plant needs to be divided, such as less blooming.
Use precise pruning shears to cut the entire plant back to the ground, then get rid of the stems. Using a sharp spade, divide the root ball into numerous pieces, each with an equal number of roots and stems, if the plant has to be divided. Place the divisions in a bed with wet, quick-draining soil that is sunny or lightly shaded. Larger catmint kinds, like Six Hills Giant (Nepeta x “Six Hills Giant”), should be planted 3 feet apart, while more common varieties should be planted 1 1/2 to 2 feet apart.
Can catmint endure the winter?
Catnip has a good level of cold tolerance and thrives in zones 3 through 9. However, growing catnip outside can be problematic in particularly cold winters or in colder areas. It might be important to offer catnip plants some protection and additional care throughout the winter if you want them to return healthy and productively each spring. This is crucial if you reside in the cooler, northern regions of its growing region.
Can catmint be moved?
Catmint can be planted anywhere in the spring once the risk of frost has passed once you’ve selected your location. You’ll have a better chance of experiencing a first-season bloom the earlier you plant them. Plants should be spaced 24 to 30 inches apart; they will grow!
Dig a hole twice the size of the pot around, loosen the dirt on the bottom, and backfill with one to two inches of compost to plant transplants in pots. Place the final plant in place, leveling the top of the root ball with the soil line, and then cover with dirt. Place gently and then deeply water. After its first season, catmint is quite drought-tolerant but still requires an inch of rain per week.
Where to plant:
Although they will tolerate some afternoon shadow, most plants prefer full sun, especially when grown in warm areas. Catmint may thrive in almost any well-drained soil type. Root rot can develop on wet or rainy grounds.
How to plant:
Although it is possible to grow plants from seed, buying nursery-grown plants is simpler and more dependable because hybrids may not grow true to seed and certain kinds are sterile. Since many plants have a tendency to grow wider than tall, leave plenty of space between them.
Can catmint be reduced in amount?
Catmint (Nepeta spp. and cvs., USDA Hardiness Zones 38) has a way of lifting my mood. This plant impresses me because it can stand out in even the most hostile circumstances, whether it’s along a cobbled walk in England or in the median planters that line Chicago boulevards. Over the course of several weeks in the summer, the beautiful lavender-blue blossoms appear to shine just as brilliantly in the garden as they do above a hard expanse of concrete and macadam. The easiest catmint delight for me, however, is seeing my cat Boo fall prey to its seductive charm.
Despite the fact that some varieties have been misused to the point of ubiquity, I have a lasting affection for catmint. And it was because of this affection that I wanted to try as many different kinds as I could in order to determine which ones were the greatest. It’s true that when catmints are mentioned, many gardening buddies scrunch up their faces. Now, while I freely acknowledge that I won’t mind if catmint and Knock Out roses (Rosa ‘Radrazz’, Zones 49) never see another planting, I’m not quite ready to give up on this wonderful collection of hardy perennials. This is particularly true of a few particular varieties that stand out for their durability, seemingly endless blooms, and attractive leaves.
Top performers
In terms of bloom time, general habit, disease resistance, and low maintenance requirements, these types were picked as the best.
The most well-liked plant in this genus is undoubtedly “Walker’s Low” (N. racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’, top photo), based on its popularity and the numerous prizes it has won. Walker’s Low is taller than one might anticipate at 30 inches. The name does not represent its size; rather, it relates to the garden in Ireland where it first appeared. One of the most magnificent floral displays ever is produced by luminous blue blossoms that are carried in upward-curving plumes up to 12 inches long. The attractive gray-green leaves are completely hidden by the flowers for several weeks when they are in full bloom in late April. Walker’s Low pairs beautifully with a range of perennials and is essential for softening sharp edges along patios and paths. In my garden, “Walker’s Low” and Japanese roof iris are a favorite combination (Iris tectorum, Zones 59). I adore the way the delicate, billowy catmint contrasts with the broad, spiky iris leaves, as well as the color echo of the lavender-blue blossoms.
The flower and foliage of “Sweet Dreams” (N. subsessilis ‘Sweet Dreams’) are a welcome change from those of other catmints. From early summer to late fall, charming pink blooms are arranged in generous clusters and tastefully complemented with burgundy bracts. By catmint standards, each trumpet-shaped blossom is 1 inch long, which is quite large. The lush green foliage will surprise you if you assume this is simply another catmint with gray-green leaves, especially when it turns colorful in the fall. Despite being a large plant, “Sweet Dreams” remains compact throughout summer. In contrast to other catmints, Japanese catmints (N. subsessilis and cvs.), such as “Sweet Dreams,” like wet soils and partial shade, though they are equally comfortable in full sun. However, deadheading is necessary to prevent “Sweet Dreams” from having a nightmare appearance after the first flush of blooms since the brown, spent flowers persist.
When great gardeners are honored with magnificent plants, it is lovely. Such a plant is called “Joanna Reed” (N. ‘Joanna Reed’), after the late Pennsylvania gardener who discovered it. One of the neatest catmints I’ve ever produced, and this quality secured a perfect score in our testing. It didn’t require deadheading because of its sturdy stems, which never flopped, and because new growth appeared swiftly to cover the wilting flower stems. I find it impossible to imagine “Joanna Reed” without blooms because of the constant display of huge violet-blue flowers that cover the wide-spreading, compact plants from spring into October. Many catmints boast about the attractiveness and unpalatability of their dusty green foliage.
Greek catmint (N. parnassica), according to a short internet search, is more popular in European gardens, but it’s still worthwhile to look for this rare beauty here. Greek catmint is robust and audacious. However, the stems of our test plants only grew to a maximum height and width of 4 feet. Stems up to 6 feet tall are possible. The tint of the fragrant leaves lies midway between green and gray-green. Beginning in early summer and continuing into early October, long spikes of tiny lavender blooms, each less than half an inch long, are densely populated. Greek catmint has the presence to dominate any garden and will cheerfully take all the sunlight you can throw at it.
I believe the catmint “Six Hills Giant” (N. “Six Hills Giant”) is the standard by which all other catmints should be measured. The word “giant” is used to indicate the massive plant size and the extravagant floral display. Long flower spikes attract attention starting in late spring. However, like many catmints, ‘Six Hills Giant’ may start to relax or even recline a few weeks into the flowering period. This was true in our testing. After the initial flower flush, don’t be afraid to bash it back to promote the growth of new, stronger stems. Although it may be difficult to consider giving up blossoms, there will be many more to come. For the ideal display, place “Six Hills Giant” next to virtually anything pink in the garden.
Select Blue (N. faassenii ‘Select Blue’), chosen for its blue flowers, is a superior addition to the group of long-blooming catmints. From midspring to midfall, I don’t think we experienced a day without flowers. The flowers are actually lavender with a darker calyx that gives them a swarthy appearance, despite claims that they are a darker blue than the straight species (N. faassenii). Late during the season, the low, mounded habit remained solid without shearing. For its tenacity and resistance to drought, the xeriscape specialists at High Country Gardens in New Mexico advise “Select Blue,” and we can vouch for its impressive performance in typical garden settings as well.
Getting down to the nitty-gritty of catmint
Catmints are tough, free-flowering perennials that typically like full sun and well-drained soils for growth. However, some are well-liked for xeriscaping because, once established, they can withstand drought. When lavenders are not hardy, they are often referred to as “poor man’s lavender (Lavandula spp. and cvs., Zones 59), which is an acceptable analogy. Here are some additional details concerning this category of plants that you should be aware of.
Catmints are incredibly floriferous from early spring to the end of the growing season. Their unique tubular, two-lipped blossoms identify them as belonging to the mint family. Even when the flowers have faded, colorful calyces still improve the floral arrangement.
Through slicing off a piece of an established clump with a spade, you can proliferate by spring division. There should be numerous young shoots and a sizable root system in each fresh division. Catmint cuttings will take root quickly if they are cut from healthy shoots before the flower buds appear. The cuttings should take several weeks to root if you place them in a moist medium like sand or a peat-perlite mixture.
An essential oil found in the leaves and stems causes cats to exhibit a range of behavioral reactions. Eating the leaves may have calming effects, while rubbing, licking, or biting them creates a momentary high. According to all accounts, cats are especially intoxicated by catmint, or catnip (N. cataria*). You unfortunately have limited options for preventing cats from mauling (and occasionally squashing) your plants. Although most plants will recover fast following an attack, barriers may be your only alternative.
Although Japanese catmints (N. subsessilis and cvs.) prefer moist soils and don’t mind partial shade, wet or soggy areas can be the death knell for most catmints. Catmints frequently appear on lists of deer-resistant plants because they are rarely troubled by disease or pests.
It’s simple to ignore the leaves when there are so many blooms to catch your attention. Many catmint species are known for their fuzzy, gray-green leaves, although some, like Siberian catmint (N. sibirica), have huge, green leaves instead. Finding it difficult to tell if something is catmint? Another distinguishing characteristic of the mint family is square stems.
High fertility merely promotes floppy behavior. Simply shear the older stems down to the young leaves coming from the crown when stems start to flop over and flower output begins to decline. Plants that have been sheared will recover in a few weeks and resume their natural appearance.
Catmint should only be pruned in the spring or once you are certain that the growing season has ended, as it can be ugly in the winter. Even late in the growing season, cutting it back stimulates it to resprout, and the new growth is cold-sensitive. Any potential winter damage is avoided by waiting until spring.