Geraniums can be overwintered inside in three different ways: as a houseplant, as a dormant bare root, or as cuttings. Your decision will be influenced by the amount of room you have indoors and the range of temperatures you can tolerate. Here is a closer examination of each method.
Overwintering geraniums as houseplants
If you want to keep the entire potted plant and have lots of room close to a window that gets bright, direct light, go with this option. A drafty west-facing window would be the ideal place for your potted geranium to spend the winter because geraniums prefer it chilly (55 to 65 F is optimum).
Wash the foliage well with your hose and repot the plant in new potting soil to prevent bringing unwanted pests from outside. You might also use insecticidal soap, which is sold in most garden centers and hardware stores as well as online. Avoid taking the plant indoors if it shows any signs of pests or illness. Only strong plants have a chance of successfully overwintering indoors.
During the winter, keep the soil wet but not damp. No more humidity is required. If the stems begin to sag, pinch them back to keep the plant compact throughout the winter. When springtime comes around, you may start fertilizing once more and transfer the plant back outside as soon as the temperature reliably rises above 50 F.
Overwintering geraniums as dormant bare root plants
This is the most typical way to overwinter geraniums, but it won’t work unless you have a dark, dry place that stays around 50 degrees throughout the winter.
First, dig up your geranium before it freezes and shake the dirt off the roots. To stop mold from forming, let the plant sit and dry for a few days before storage. Before moving onto the following phase, the roots must be completely dry.
The roots should be kept in a dark, dry place that doesn’t get colder than 45 degrees throughout the winter. Geranium roots should be kept at a temperature of 50 F. You can keep them by doing:
- It has been customary for generations to hang the plants upside-down from the rafters;
- placing them on a shelf after wrapping them in newspaper or a paper bag;
- they were put in a cardboard box.
Step 3: Every month or so, look for mold, black leaves, or limp stems at the roots. Remove any plant or root components that are harmful. Most of the stems should endure the winter in good shape. Before re-storing them if they become too wilted, give them a good bath in water and let them air dry.
Step 4: Reviving your geraniums involves cleaning them up, pruning the stems back to healthy green growth, and replanting them in new potting soil about six weeks before your final frost date. Where the new roots will grow, bury the stems two nodes deep. When you notice fresh growth in one to two weeks, keep the plants somewhat dry; after that, keep the soil moist until the plants are big enough to replant outside.
Overwintering geraniums as cuttings
If your light windowsill area is limited or you are concerned that bringing in your entire potted plant would also attract unwanted bugs, this is a nice technique to try. Additionally, it’s a fantastic way to multiply your existing geraniums.
To trim plants, you’ll need:
- a cutting edge.
- Most hardware stores and garden centers sell rooting hormone, which is sold online.
- Use little terracotta or plastic pots, or recycle a clear takeaway container for roasted chicken.
- If you don’t eat chicken, use clear plastic bags to cover the pans.
For the winter, should geraniums be pruned back?
You should prune a perennial geranium after it has bloomed all season and starts to wither. This helps the plant store energy for the spring while simultaneously keeping it dormant for the winter. This could need to happen any time between August and late October, depending on your zone. Cut perennial geraniums down to 2 or 3 inches above the soil with a pair of trustworthy shears, ideally at nodes or new growth points. Take out any more flowers or foliage. You’ll have a collection of thick stems that is really ugly. But don’t panic, your blooms will return in full bloom the following spring.
When should I cover my geraniums for the winter?
- Make sure you thoroughly inspect your geranium plants before bringing them inside for the winter. Look for symptoms of pests and illnesses like rust and remove any dead leaves or wilting blossoms. Only zonal pelargoniums are impacted by this, but it is becoming more widespread. It arrived in the nation for the first time in 1968, and it does best in the moist summer or fall months. Fortunately, it doesn’t seem to spread to the plants quickly and is simple to treat, so merely plucking the afflicted leaves is an effective management. You might also consider using the fungicide Dithane 945 as a spray.
- Placing your overwintering plants somewhere bright and sunny will help them retain their need for light throughout the winter. Your plants will receive 50% less light if they are placed more than three feet from a window!
- Because your plants continue to thrive throughout the winter, keep the roots moist. While geraniums frequently survive droughts, they rarely flourish. Show plant growers take special care to keep the roots of their plants damp but never soggy during the winter.
- Ventilate as frequently as you can to maintain a dry environment surrounding your plants. Your plants will turn into a moldy, rotting heap if you don’t allow the air to circulate. The greatest electric fan heaters are those that operate automatically since they circulate air while simultaneously raising air temperature.
- Geraniums are fairly inexpensive to overwinter in the greenhouse because they only need to be kept frost-free. To keep temperatures above freezing, however, we do advise utilizing a heater. Set the thermostat on your heater to 5C, which is 41F. The plant will not survive if the stems become frosty! The winter months are a great time to store your delicate pelargoniums in porches, sunrooms, or conservatories.
We hope that we have provided you with enough of tips so that you can continue to enjoy your geraniums year after year. Visit our geraniums hub page, which is brimming with useful resources, for additional details on how to cultivate and take care of these well-liked plants. And do get in touch with us through our social media outlets to share your personal favorites; we’d love to hear from you.
Can I keep geraniums in pots outside during the winter?
Geraniums are frequently planted in containers, which is a fantastic option if you want to overwinter them.
In the fall, before the first frost, if your geraniums are already in pots, you can simply relocate the pots under cover into a sunny, airy, and frost-free location, such a greenhouse or conservatory.
According to David Taylor, vice chairman of the UK Pelargonium and Geranium Society, “the best area would be a greenhouse and the ideal climate would be to have a heater in place to preserve temperatures above freezing when frost does threaten.” (new tab opens) (PAGS).
You can dig up, repot, and move the pots under cover if your geraniums were grown in a border.
Geraniums should always be pruned back before being brought indoors, whether they are already potted or have been removed from the border and repotted, according to David Taylor of PAGS.
“First, you should prune your plants back by roughly two-thirds; if lifting from outside beds, they could need to be pruned down by three-quarters or perhaps more. Do this pruning only while the roots are dry; otherwise, the remaining stems will wither.”
‘Also, get rid of any diseased, damaged, or dead sections you see. Make sure they are bug-free before bringing them inside for the winter,’ adds Emily Fernandes, a Californian small-space gardener and HouseGrail expert (opens in new tab).
Geraniums are best kept in a semi-dormant state while enclosed, as this means they won’t need as much water or food. “Place them in a partially sunny area, water them every two to three weeks, and maintain a humidity level of about 50%.” According to Emily Fernandes, a consultant at HouseGrail, “they go dormant over the winter like most other plants to store their energy for the growing season” (opens in new tab).
Will my geraniums survive the winter indoors?
Pelargonium species, which come in pots, make great indoor plants that may be grown all year round. They normally become available in March through June, and if given enough light inside the house, they will bloom continuously. There are several fresh varieties, like vining and hanging basket cultivars. They are available in many different types of containers and at varying stages of development.
How are geraniums protected against frost?
According to the University of California, outdoor geraniums should be kept frequently watered, especially if they are in pots, to help protect them from an unusual cold snap. In comparison to dry ground, which will instead rob moisture from the roots, weakening the plant, moist soil that freezes causes less damage to plant roots.
To shield geraniums from the cold before light frosts, cover them with “tents fashioned from newspaper, cardboard, a bed sheet, or burlap. Avoid letting the cover touch the plant itself because this will allow the geranium to become frosted. Place mobile geranium containers in safe settings, like next to house walls, which are typically several degrees warmer.
When should geraniums be wakened from dormancy?
Dormant, full-size geranium plants can be overwintered in the same way as animals hibernate during the winter and then come out of it in the spring.
Steps to Overwintering Dormant Geraniums
- Before the first frost, transplant the geraniums into containers and prune the plant back by about half. Dehydrate the soil in the pot.
- Put a paper bag on top of each plant and turn it over.
- Containers for dormant plants should be kept in a garage or basement that is chilly, unheated, and slightly damp.
- Every few weeks, check the geraniums to make sure the stems and leaves are not shriveling. Spray them with water or mist the roots if they start to show signs of drying out. After that, let the plant thoroughly dry before putting it back in the paper bag.
Reviving Dormant Geraniums
- Relocate your dormant geraniums to indirect light around 6–8 weeks before the final anticipated frost.
- Trim any dead leaves from the plants, and cut stems back to a healthy, green growth.
- Give the potted plants a good soaking and some fertilizer that has been diluted.
Next year, how can I preserve geraniums?
Geraniums have the advantage of easily entering dormancy, allowing for storage in a manner akin to that of sensitive bulbs. This method of storing geraniums for the winter entails digging the plant up in the fall and carefully removing the soil from the roots. The roots should not be spotless, just clear of dirt clumps.
In a room with a constant temperature of roughly 50 degrees Fahrenheit, such as your garage or basement, hang the plants upside down (10 C.). Rehang the geranium plant after soaking the roots in water for an hour once a month. All of the leaves on the geranium will fall off, but the stems will still be alive. Replant the dormant geraniums in the ground in the spring, and they will come to life.
Are geraniums resistant to frost?
According to the University of Florida, one of my favorite container plants, geraniums, cannot withstand a cold. However, if they have had some time to acclimate to the chilly weather, they may endure a light frost.
I’m not sure if it switched from frost to freezing because I was away during that brutal cold snap in mid-December. It appears to have been below freezing, at least out here in the hinterlands west of State Road 7, based on what I heard about the temperatures.
But when I got home, my potted geraniums were the only thing in my yard that looked truly decent. The majority of them were covered in large, colorful flowers despite not being moved, covered, or even watered.
Another surprise was that the orchids, predominantly dendrobiums, that I have attached to trees received no particular care. When the weather went northerly, many spikes had buds, but now they are all in flower. Even though some of the flowers are not as spectacular as usual, they still seem good.
I suppose I’ll pay attention when I do my research in the future before planting a bunch of one kind of shrub and notice the warning “extremely cold sensitive.” When I positioned a dozen vibrant copper leaf shrubs across my back fence this past spring, I simply glossed over it. They went brown and crunchy after the first cold snap and quickly lost all of their leaves. I don’t really want a whole line of plants that will make me think of my Chicago yard in the winter every time the temperatures drop and then take the rest of the season to recover. However, after about a month there were a few tiny signs of life. They’ve left.
I intend to replace them with coco plum, a gorgeous native bush that creates a nice hedge, once I am confident that the worst of the bad weather is behind us. The coco plum has been described as “sensitive” in certain writings, but the majority of the study I did shows that once they are established, they are hardy. They appear to hold up reasonably well based on what I have seen so far this year. Definitely superior to both my copper leaf and my ficus, which was badly damaged.
How can I describe my ficus? They’re supposed to be recovering from the white fly infestations of the summer during this time of year, right? Sadly, it turns out that these plants, which were formerly thought to be indestructible, are also cold sensitive. They don’t seem to have ever looked this horrible to me. The weeds that snake through them and span the tops, which at least had the advantage of keeping them looking green most of the time, turned black from the cold, adding insult to injury. The 200 feet of ficus along the side of my property line was undoubtedly the worst gardening decision I made during my first year in South Florida.
Given that South Florida does not frequently experience this kind of weather, you might not anticipate native flora to handle it very well. But my geraniums are the only item that look better than mine because they have been such soldiers.