If the local bunny population allows them to, hardy perennial perennials come back year after year. Choose one of these perennial plants that can withstand rabbit damage to address your bunny problem.
Aster (Aster spp.)
Some perennials that are resistant to rabbits serve a dual purpose by luring pollinators. Bees and butterflies are huge fans of asters. These laid-back sunbathers don’t require any extra maintenance or care. They bloom in hues of white, pink, and purple throughout the late summer to early fall, and rabbits largely ignore them.
Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
More people are starting to notice the butterfly weed’s midsummer vivid orange blossoms in pollinator gardens, ancient fields, and by the sides of roadways. One of the more sophisticated varieties of milkweed, the plant’s compact mounding morphology thrives in pollinator gardens, where it helps monarch butterflies that are migrating. Rabbits are put off by the blossoms’ slight toxicity, though.
Coral Bells (Heuchera spp.)
Rabbit-resistant shade plants are necessary in shady gardens. One of the most well-liked perennials for shade, coral bells, also withstands rabbit predation. Coral bells can flourish in almost any yard and produce lush foliage in a large variety of textures and hues, from black-purple to green, gold, orange, or chartreuse. Their blossoms might be small spikes of pink or white flowers, or they can be a little more extravagant, but the leaves is always the major attraction.
Daylily (Hemerocallis spp.)
The traditional garden summertime heralds are daylilies. The best part is that bunnies ignore them. They are simple to cultivate, have wide, strap-like foliage, and enormous, vivid flowers that match any color scheme. Daylilies should be planted in full to partial sunshine, ideally in wet, well-draining soil.
What animal eats the leaves of coral bells?
The majority of heuchera species and cultivars are self-sterile, thus gardeners who desire seed will need to grow many varieties. The seeds are ripe six weeks after pollination, when the seed pods become brown and split apart, and the blooms bloom in the summer. The seed can be gathered and planted right away. In 30 days, the seeds will germinate, and by the fall, the seedlings will be prepared for potting.
Heuchera and x Heucherella can also be separated. Pull separate the rooted offsets and excavate the three-year-old clumps. It might be necessary to pot up the smaller offsets before replanting them in a prepared bed. I’ve successfully done this in both the summer and the winter. The offsets can also be handled as stem cuttings and, as long as they are shielded from desiccation during the rooting process, they will readily root without the use of any rooting hormone. Gardeners may also succeed by carefully taking a leaf from the base of the plant together with a little piece of stem tissue, then rooting the leaf/stem cutting.
Pests and Diseases of Heuchera and x Heucherella
Deer and rabbits usually avoid the astringent (bad-tasting) Heuchera and tiarella leaves. As a result, they make excellent hosta substitutes in areas with high deer pressure. Just keep in mind that a rabid deer or voracious rabbit would eat anything in the dead of winter, including a heuchera.
Insect pests in the garden often have no effect on Heuchera and x Heucherella. Heuchera, however, may occasionally be afflicted by black vine weevils, which bore into the crown and kill the tops (particularly in the Pacific Northwest). The plant will eventually die if left untreated, but systemic pesticides can control black vine weevils. There is no treatment for foliar nematodes, thus prevention is crucial when they do occasionally cause unsightly discolored areas on the leaf. Only purchase plants from nurseries that look for and remove contaminated plants.
Some cultivars will undergo summer dieback in hot, humid gardens because of the fungus sclerotinia. Gardeners should choose varieties that are regarded as hardy in their region. The most crucial preventive strategy is good air circulation, so watch out that other plants don’t outgrow your heuchera.
How to Grow Heuchera and x Heucherella in a Container
In mixed containers, Heuchera and x Heucherella thrive because they like well-drained potting soils with little fertilizer. Water the pots thoroughly in the summer but sparingly in the winter. If the container is not insulated, the pots will require some protection from the chilly winter weather. These plants are perfect for putting together gorgeous combinations because of the leaves they produce and their controlled growth habits.
Landscape Uses of Heuchera and x Heucherella
Garden designers often value the lovely foliage of Heuchera and x Heucherella because it offers a season-long burst of color. Because flowers are frequently transient, colorful foliage is significantly more valuable in garden design than flower color. Heuchera blooms, however, should not be disregarded because they provide the garden, during a portion of the growing season, an open, airy, informal character. The floral display also lasts quite a while if deadheaded. When gardeners include heuchera, they may dependably expect a whole season of purple, bronze, chartreuse, or silver leaves color. Similar to how they utilize hosta, designers can employ heuchera where there is some shadow. Heuchera have a wider variety of foliage and flower colors and the same rosette growth behavior as a small or medium-sized hosta. Heuchera are also deer-resistant and can be employed in gardens that are being dashed by Dancer and blitzed by Blitzen in place of hosta.
Heuchera and x Heucherella pair well with carex, ferns, hosta, and epimedium, among other plants. To create a purple and silver haven, group the purple-leaved heuchera varieties with other purple plants like Japanese maple or purple smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria). Compare the purple-leaved varieties to plants that have complementary colored foliage or flowers, such as yellow-flowered Lysimachia ‘Aurea’, pink-flowered Lychnis, or white-flowered Lychnis (Aloysia virgata). Similarly, combine the aforementioned trees and shrubs with yellow- or bronze-leaved Heuchera to provide a striking color scheme. Use the silver-leaved varieties in formal gardens or night gardens along with other silver or white plants. They complement moon vine, phlox “David,” and hydrangea “Annabelle” beautifully. Utilize cultivars with red, pink, or bronze leaves along with other vibrant hues like red, orange, and yellow to create a riot of vibrant hues.
History and Background of Heuchera and x Heucherella
Heuchera is also known as “alum root” and “coral bells.” The former name alludes to the popular garden species Heuchera sanguinea’s red blossoms. The latter name alludes to the roots’ ability to be utilized as an alternative to alum in the pickling process and their high tannin content. The roots are also used medicinally to shrink tissues in people who have piles, ulcers, and nasal bleeds. The intergeneric hybrid x heucherella, sometimes known as “foamy bells,” was produced by crossing the closely related genera of heuchera with tiarella (the foam flower). Due of their beauty and ease of cultivation, coral bells and foamy bells have become highly popular among fans of native plants.
Native to North America, heuchera can be found from Florida to California in the west to southern Canada in the north. They typically grow in woodland or mountainous (montane) habitats, mainly in cracks or on steep slopes with good drainage. Heucheras can survive in a variety of environments, as evidenced by the fact that I have seen them in the wild on steep outcrops in Tennessee and also in damp seeps in the agave-filled deserts of Arizona.
My coral bells may be being eaten by what?
Black vine weevils (Otiorhynchus sulcatus), which are slightly under 1/2 inch long and have a conspicuous snout, are easily recognized. These non-flying insects damage the edges of the leaves by eating coral bells, which results in holes and sharp edges. The plant is rarely harmed by the damaged leaf, despite the fact that it is ugly. However, this beetle’s larval, or juvenile, stage can harm coral bells. The white, c-shaped larvae feed on the stems and roots of the plant, weakening or killing it.
Which types of plants deter rabbits?
Planting annuals like Zinnias and perennials that rabbits don’t like is another tactic. Rabbits have sensitive noses, as you may have inferred from the discussion of repellents. Strong-smelling plants, particularly those with an earthy, herbaceous perfume, frequently fail the rabbit sniff test.
Several brochures that Echter’s has available outline tactics for eradicating pests like rabbits. One suggestion for people selecting plants for the garden is to perform plant-by-plant trials, planting one of each plant kind and monitoring it the next morning or two. It is probably okay to plant more of the same if it hasn’t been uncovered and consumed.
Certain plants are referred to as “salad-bar specialties for rabbits.” These include fennel, petunias, irises, pansies, and tulips. Lavender, penstemon, artemesia, hyssop, sages, shasta daisies, gaillardia, common butterfly bush, blue mist spirea, and columbine are among the plants that rabbits detest.
Additionally, a handout by Echter outlines plants that deer often avoid. Douglas fir, Colorado blue spruce, lodgepole pine, pion pine, and common hackberry are some of the trees. Lavender, echinops, delphinium, goldenrod, chokecherry, chocolate flower, and Apache plume are more plants.
The only catch, according to McMillan, is that deer will eat if they are hungry.
If you reside in a populated region, you should also be aware that some plants are poisonous to deer and rabbits, making them undesirable to these animals. Children might not be able to understand this the way that wildlife can.
When all other measures fall short, fencing is the best deterrent against vermin, according to Morris of the Flower Bin.
To keep out a rabbit, he claims, it must be at least several feet tall. It must be somewhat durable. They are able to destroy it. Typically, people will utilize fencing or chicken wire.
Are coral bells resistant to pests?
Heucheras are largely pest-free perennials known as coral bells for the color and form of their flowers or alum roots for the tannins they contain. Grow these low-maintenance plants in shade or part sun with well-drained soil if you’re enamored with Heuchera hybrids for their vibrant, patterned foliage. In order to decrease pest exposure, learn more about the history of the many Heuchera types. For instance, H. micrantha can withstand greater moisture, whereas H. maxima and H. sanguinea are more tolerant of drought. There are tactics to protect your Heucheras if they are assaulted.
Should I trim my coral bells back?
Coral bells don’t require much upkeep, but you can prune off the entire flower stem after it blooms to direct the plant’s energy into developing additional leaves. After winter, if the leaves start to appear a little ragged, trim them back and new growth should rapidly take over.
Do coral bells appeal to slugs?
- Choose a site with rich, moist soil that is well-drained, either in partial shade or full sun. It is ideal to have morning sun and afternoon shade.
- Turn the dirt under to a depth of 6 to 12 inches, remove any debris, and lightly rake the soil as level as you can to prepare the bed.
- All gardens benefit from the addition of organic matter (leaf mold, compost, well-rotted manure), which is crucial in recently developed communities.
- To lessen transplant shock, plant during gloomy weather or in the late afternoon.
- For each plant, create a hole that is sufficiently large to hold the root ball.
- To promote healthy root growth, unpot the plant and use your hands to gently release the root ball.
- Set the top of the root ball so that it is level with the dirt around it. Up to the top of the root ball, cover with soil. With your hand, forcefully press the earth.
- Use the plant tag to indicate its location.
- To save water and prevent weeds, thoroughly moisten the soil and sprinkle a thin layer of mulch (no thicker than two inches) on top.
How to Grow
- Keep weeds under control while the plants are growing. In order to suppress weeds, either cultivate frequently or apply a mulch to stop their germination. Weeds compete with plants for water, space, and nutrients.
- Mulches also support stable soil temperatures and moisture retention. When used as a mulch for perennial plants, weathered bark or finely chopped leaves give the bed a more natural appearance and, as they decompose over time, enrich the soil. Mulches should never be placed on a plant’s stems to avoid potential decay.
- Perennials need to be watered carefully to get them started. To encourage young roots to swell deeply, water thoroughly at least once each week. One inch or so below the soil’s surface, the soil should be wet. By placing your finger in the ground, you can verify this. Water in the early morning hours so that all of the leaves have time to dry. The majority of perennial plants need an inch of rain or weekly irrigation. Using a rain gauge, you can determine whether you need to add water.
- Some protection from strong winds and intense sunlight may be required until plants grow established. Additionally essential is good airflow.
- A mild fertilizer can be administered after new growth starts to show. To prevent burn damage, keep granular fertilizers away from the plant’s top and leaves. Use moderate amounts of a slow-release fertilizer because greater amounts could promote root rots.
- Heucheras should have a top dressing of compost in the spring, and the mulch should be replaced as needed.
- If you are growing for the flowers, deadhead for longer periods of blooming.
- When the cores of the crowns start to turn woody in the spring or fall, divide the plants. Replant the side shoots and discard the woody portion. When plants are content, they frequently self-seed.
Growing Tips
- Heucheras are excellent as a specimen plant or as a groundcover in woodlands. They look good as an edging or at the front of the border.
- Although many types are grown primarily for their display foliage, which brightens dark places, they also produce lovely flowers that are suitable for cutting.
Common Disease Problems
Botrytis: This fungus turns flowers, leaves, stalks, and buds a greyish color. It thrives in chilly, rainy weather. Burpee advises removing the damaged plant sections, avoiding watering at night, and not watering directly on the plant. Make sure plants receive adequate airflow. For advice on fungicides, get in touch with local cooperative extension service.
Cercospora Leaf Blight: Tiny flecks that first form on the leaves with a yellowish halo and then turn brown and combine. The leaves wilt and die as a result of them. Burpee advises getting rid of any plant detritus and diseased plants.
Downy Mildew is a fungus that eventually affects both sides of the leaves, causing pale gray areas on their undersides. Burpee Avoid overhead irrigation, it is advised. Don’t overcrowd plants and make sure there is enough air movement. When plants are damp, stay away from them.
Heuchera Rust: This fungus initially develops on older leaves, which can be mistaken for leaves that are dying naturally. On the undersides of the leaves, it develops the distinctive pustules that are rust in color. The spores develop inside the leaf and cannot be removed. The top of the leaf bears pock marks. This rust only affects its intended host, and it shouldn’t spread to other kinds of plants. Burpee advises removing and destroying any plant components that have been impacted as soon as possible. Avoid removing the growth points at any costs.
When the weather is humid, a fungus illness known as powdery mildew develops on the tops of the leaves. The surface of the leaves seems to be white or grayish, and they may curl. Burpee advises giving the plants adequate air circulation through optimum spacing and pruning in order to prevent powdery mildew. For advice on fungicides, get in touch with local cooperative extension service.
Common Pest and Cultural Problems
Aphids: These disease-transmitting sucking insects that feed on the undersides of leaves might be green, red, black, or peach in appearance. On the foliage, they deposit a sticky substance that draws ants. Burpee advises attracting or introducing aphid-eating predators like lady beetles and wasps into your garden. You can also use an insecticidal soap or a powerful spray to wash them away.
Rabbits: Rabbits frequently consume heuchera blooms.
Use a hot pepper wax spray or a repellant for rabbits, suggests Burpee.
Slugs: These pesky insects consume entire leaves or leave big holes in the vegetation. They feed at night, leaving a slime trail, and are especially problematic in wet weather. Burpee’s Advice Hand select, ideally at night. You can try using cornmeal or beer to lure the slugs into traps. Create a hole in the ground and fill it with a huge cup or bowl to serve as a beer trap. Make sure the object has steep sides so that the slugs can’t escape once they’ve finished. Beer should be poured into the bowl until it is about 3/4 full. The basin should be filled with drowned slugs by morning so that they may be emptied outside for the birds to consume. Put a spoonful or two of cornmeal in a jar and place it on its side close to the plants to create a cornmeal trap. Slugs are drawn to the smell, but since they are unable to digest it, it will kill them. Diatomaceous earth or even coffee grounds can be used to create a barrier around your plants. They are too big to crawl over these.
Heuchera may experience sunburn if exposed to strong sunlight during the day.
Be sure to position your plants so that they are shielded from the afternoon light, advises Burpee.
Vine Weevil: This insect makes irregular slits in the leaf margins, and its grubs feed on the roots of plants, sometimes killing them. Adults measure about 5/16 inches in length, are matte black, and have dirty yellow markings on their wing covers. The grubs have light brown heads, are c-shaped, and measure 3/8 inches long. Burpee advises picking out the adults at night and shaking the plants over newspaper to move them. In the daytime, they hide under pots; check there. For advice on which pesticides to use, contact your cooperative extension service.
Heuchera FAQs
Is heuchera a pollinator magnet? Yes, hummingbirds and butterflies are drawn to the flowers.
What causes my heuchera to wilt? It has healthy soil and receives frequent irrigation. It sounds like vine weevils that feed on the roots of your plant may have attacked it. The larvae that feed at night on the roots should be hand-picked. For potential pesticides, you can also get in touch with your local Cooperative Extension Service.
Why did the heuchera I just planted die? Verify to verify if you planted it with the crown covered. Heuchera’s crown must not be buried or it will decay.