Brand-new for 2019 is the Summer Crush Hydrangea from Endless Summer Hydrangeas! This intriguing cultivar carries on the Bloomstruck Hydrangea’s legacy. Late in the spring, it blooms in vivacious raspberry red mopheads, which continue until the fall. These magnificent bloom clusters are great for attracting attention next to your patio or gazebo because they are so eye-catching.
The bloom color is interchangeable, much as other mophead hydrangeas! The typical raspberry red blossoms are only produced by soil that ranges from slightly neutral to alkaline. While flowers with a bright purple hue will grow in acidic soil.
Large, bright green leaves with serrated edges and a point at the end are present on this hydrangea. In addition, the Summer Crush has waxy cuticles that shield it from midday heat melt, which can happen to some hydrangea varieties.
The Summer Crush Hydrangea has an upright, rounded growth habit and is naturally compact. Only a few inches separate the leaves on short internodes. As a result, no pruning is necessary and lush foliage is guaranteed!
Because this Macrophylla hydrangea is deciduous, it will hibernate in the winter to protect itself from the cold. The Summer Crush will have no leaves for the whole winter after the first frost. Fresh leaves and blooms will make a spectacular comeback in the spring.
There is little question you can find a position for at least one of these beauties somewhere in your landscape considering their mature sizes of 18-36″ H x 18-36″ W.
*Summer Crush Hydrangeas are semi-evergreen/deciduous plants that become dormant in the winter. Expect seasonal foliage deterioration (discoloration, spots, leaf drop) or the plant to come fully dormant if you order this plant during the fall or winter.
Why isn’t my Hydrangea Summer Crush blooming?
Your hydrangea shrubs may not be blooming for a few main reasons, including sun exposure, excessive watering, and excessive fertilization. Endless Summer hydrangeas appreciate dappled shade in the afternoon and morning sun. It may be too hot and intense for the blossoms to form if they are placed in full sun.
Does fresh or old wood produce summer crush?
Deep green, deciduous Foliage. Summertime blossoms are rounded and raspberry red. Unless a soil acidifier is added to obtain a blue or purple color, the color will remain.
Uses: Excellent for any landscape due to small size and dramatic color. Pests/Problems: Deer, Leaf Spot.
After flowering, prune sparingly in late summer or early fall. Big leaf hydrangeas typically bloom on aged wood (1 year old wood). On both old and new wood, new types like Summer Crush can bear fruit. For the best chance of flowering in the winter and spring, it’s best to leave as much old wood as you can.
Are summer crush hydrangeas deadheaded?
To keep your hydrangeas looking their best and promote the development of new flowers, deadhead regularly during the blooming season.
But in mid- to late-fall, stop deadheading hydrangea shrubs, leaving any spent blooms in situ. This not only adds beauty to the winter landscape but also guarantees that the buds that will bloom the following spring are not removed.
Many customers ask why their hydrangeas aren’t blooming. The primary reasons hydrangeas don’t bloom are incorrect pruning, bud damage due to winter and/or early spring weather, location and too much fertilizer.
There are hydrangea kinds that bloom on either fresh or old wood, or even both. Both new and old wood are the growth of the following year (spring), respectively.
- Consider that this year, you bought a Nikko Blue Hydrangea. For the next year, Nikko’s produce blooms in the fall. Your Nikko is therefore creating blooms this fall that will blossom in the spring.
- Therefore, you wouldn’t want to completely prune your Nikko Blue Hydrangea this fall while you are pruning your perennials. Pruning the Nikko Blue Hydrangea this fall would effectively mean cutting off your hydrangea flowers for the upcoming spring.
- The idea behind Endless Summer, a hydrangea variety that blooms on both old and new wood, is that the plant will set blooms this fall to blossom not only in the spring of the following year, but will also keep producing blooms in the spring of the following year to extend the blossoms into the summer.
- Once more, pruning your Endless Summer hydrangea in the fall would mean removing some of the flowers that would blossom in the spring.
The hydrangea’s plant tag will indicate whether it blooms on fresh wood, old wood, or both. It is typically preferable to wait until spring to prune your hydrangeas. As the plant grows, you’ll see stems that are fragile when bent and lack any leaves. Since these stems are dead and won’t produce any flowers, they should be clipped close to the plant’s base.
The second reason why your hydrangeas aren’t blooming is probably the weather. Buds of hydrangeas are extremely susceptible to cold. Therefore, it is a good idea to wrap your hydrangea for the winter if it is an old wood hydrangea. Keep in mind that old wood hydrangeas establish their blooms for the following spring in the fall. Therefore, you won’t have blossoms in the spring if the fall-produced buds are frozen in the winter.
You can wrap anything with regular burlap. Burlap should be wrapped around the plant and filled with mulch or leaves after the first hard frost and after the hydrangea’s leaves have dropped. In order for the buds to survive the winter and sprout the following spring, the plant receives insulation from this. Never wrap your hydrangeas in plastic. When warmer winter days arrive, the plant cannot breathe since plastic, unlike burlap, doesn’t breathe. As a result, the plant can heated to such high temperatures that it cooks within the plastic and perishes.
The second most frequent weather-related cause hydrangeas do not blossom is late spring killing frosts. We saw really chilly temperatures in April both this year and last year after beautiful spring days. When springtime temperatures drop below freezing, hydrangeas need to be covered with an old beach towel or sheet. Because of the temperature dip, there won’t be any blossoms.
The majority of hydrangeas require at least 3 to 4 hours of light per day to bloom. The best light is in the early morning, midday light is acceptable if it is dabbled light rather than beating sun, and afternoon sun is typically too hot. Check the plant label, though. Newer hydrangea cultivars are being created that can withstand more sun exposure time and sun intensity. A hydrangea in full sun will require much more watering than one in diffused light, so keep that in mind.
High nitrogen fertilizer should not be used to feed hydrangeas. Nitrogen is indicated by the first number on the fertilizer ratio. (The ratio stands for N, P, and K) For healthy leaves and general good growth, some nitrogen (N) is required; however, a ratio of 8-16-6 or any similar combination with a higher middle or phosphorus (P) value is preferred. The growth of roots and shoots is encouraged by phosphorus, which improves the blooming process.
Potash (K), the third element’s last quantity and the lowest ratio, is for plant hardiness. Because hydrangeas prefer acidic soil, they can be fertilized with fertilizers designed for such plants. Hydrangeas only require fertilizing twice a year, once in early spring and once in mid-summer. To avoid root burn, make sure the soil is always moist before applying a fertilizer.
How long do hydrangeas take to bloom?
There could be a number of causes for hydrangeas not to bloom. Since we can grow five different species of hydrangeas, some explanations vary based on which type it is.
But first, let’s cover the broad causes. The bush might not be fully developed for blooming. The majority of woody plants don’t bloom until they are rather mature. If a newly planted bush had flower buds when it was in a pot, it might bloom the first year. However, after that, it might not bloom for a year or two as it gets used to the soil in its new position. Instead of flower buds, it is actively forming new roots and branches. There will be a lot more flowers when it eventually starts to blossom again because the bush has indeed “bushed” out!
Sadder still, it’s possible that deer have devoured the flower buds. Where deer have pulled the buds off because they lack incisors, look for rough torn stem ends. Additionally, because all hydrangeas require moisture to thrive, blossoming may not take place if a drought strikes at the incorrect time.
The timing of some hydrangea pruning by gardeners has been off. At this point, determining the species becomes crucial. We have two species that flower on fresh wood (new growth of the current growing season). These include the panicle hydrangea, Hydrangea paniculata, also known as the PG hydrangea, which is frequently seen densely planted in cemeteries, and the native smooth hydrangea, Hydrangea arborescens, which is frequently sold under the cultivar name “Annabelle” and typically has white mophead flowers. Early spring is a good time to prune these two species, and the new growth will bloom later in the summer.
Our other three hydrangea species, however, only flower on aged wood (growth from the previous growing season). The native oakleaf hydrangea, Hydrangea quercifolia, with stunning crimson or maroon fall foliage color, the climbing hydrangea, Hydrangea anomala petiolaris, a fantastic vine for partial shade, and the majority of the highly popular blue or pink bigleaf hydrangea, Hydrangea macrophylla, are included. The flower buds will probably be removed if these plants are pruned in the fall or early spring. It is preferable to prune immediately following blooming, before the new flower buds emerge.
The bigleaf hydrangea has undergone a number of new types over the past few years. They bloom on both old and new wood, hence the name “remontant.” Growing these types will help one prevent a further cause of poor bloom. Flower buds on older, non-remontant types of Hydrangea macrophylla frequently die in our cold winters. However, gardeners who reside in urban areas or close to bodies of water, where the winters are less severe, frequently have success with these types. A winter with a thick layer of snow may also adequately shield the flower buds from the cold in rural areas.
What should I feed hydrangeas to encourage blooming?
When purchasing fertilizer, check the labels to see how much nitrogen (N), phosphate (P), and potassium are present (K). A general-purpose, balanced fertilizer such a 10-10-10 N-P-K or 12-4-8 N-P-K is typically best for hydrangeas. Consider using a fertilizer with additional phosphorus if you want your hydrangea blossoms to be bigger and more numerous.
Since phosphorus is the middle element, fertilizer with the formula 10-20-10 will do. Choose a slow-release granular fertilizer with the designation “bloom boost” if you’re looking into it because it might also include more phosphorus.
Which fertilizer works best for summer crush hydrangeas?
The brilliant reblooming flower heads of the Endless Summer Collection are the talk of the town. The group includes “The Original,” “Bloomstruck,”
Twist and Shout with Blushing Bride. Here are some pointers for cultivating a superb Endless Summer Hydrangea!
It’s critical to comprehend the kind of hydrangea you’re interested in as a knowledgeable consumer. In contrast to other hydrangea varieties, the Endless Summer Collection is unique. These hydrangeas bloom for a longer period of time than usual, and they do so from growth on both the wood from this year and the year before. Remember this while you select and take care of your plant. Hydrangeas in this region appreciate full morning light with afternoon dappled shade as requirements. They prefer moist, well-drained soils. It is advised to fertilize in the spring or early summer using granular, slow-release fertilizer with the ratio 10-30-10. Watering: Due to high temperatures and direct sunlight in the afternoon, these plants often wilt. It is better to drink water in the early morning or late afternoon when temperatures are lower. When the ground seems dry, water it. After a heavy frost, trim the plant back to 12 to 15 inches above the ground.
Are your hydrangeas failing to bloom? These are some justifications. a surplus of water Less blossoms may occur from overwatering. Be aware of the area where you are planting to prevent overwatering. Does the spring have flooding? Are your soils clay? When the earth is dry, only use water. An excessive amount of fertilizer might result in lush, green leaves but few blossoms. Use the required amounts of fertilizer one time in the spring or early summer.
An excessive amount of pruning will result in fewer flowers on the plant. Wait until the plant is dormant before trimming it to shape it, and never cut more than 12 inches above the ground. Winter harm: The plant may sustain damage during a cold, harsh winter and recover throughout the next growing season. Use a mulch to cover the crown of your plants over the winter to protect them, and then take it off in the spring after the risk of hard frosts has passed.