When exposed to bright light, certain air plant kinds, such as Tillandsia brachycaulos and Tillandsia bradeana, have been found to become a shade of red. This feature appeals to plant collectors who seek them out primarily for the purpose of adding this lovely tone to their collection.
If the tops of your air plant’s leaves start to turn brown instead of red, you know it’s getting too much direct light (and so drying up).
If you plan to keep your air plant indoors, mist it at least twice a week if it will be exposed to a lot of light in a non-humid environment.
If you’re not sure what circumstances your indoor plant requires to thrive, providing indirect light is always a safer bet.
If you’re wondering if you can use artificial light to assist your air plant turn red, the answer is yes, but there are a few guidelines to follow to ensure your plant can continue photosynthesizing and growing as it would in natural sunlight.
- Full spectrum illumination is recommended since regular lightbulbs do not give the wavelengths required for your plants to fully photosynthesize and flourish.
- Keep your plant at least three feet away from the artificial light: If you keep your air plant too far away from a poor light source, even if it’s a full spectrum light, it won’t be able to absorb enough light to stay healthy.
- Consider supplying supplemental light for a minimum of 12 hours per day in areas completely devoid of natural light: Most grow lights have an automated timer built in, so you’re essentially simulating natural sunshine.
What does an unhealthy air plant look like?
What is it about air plants (Tillandsia) that fascinates people so much? Air plants are epiphytic, which means that, unlike most other plants, they don’t need soil to survive. Instead, they use their leaves to absorb moisture and nutrients. Despite the fact that air plants require little care, they can become ill looking shriveled, weak, brown, or droopy. Is it possible to save an air plant in this state? Yes, as long as the plant isn’t too old. Continue reading to learn how to revive a Tillandsia.
What color should my air plant be?
The name “air plant” is a little deceiving. Members of the Tillandsia genus are named after the fact that they may grow without any soil at all. In reality, one of the most common misconceptions we encounter in air plant care is assuming that Tillandsia just require air to survive.
Air plants are epiphytic (meaning they grow on other plants without harming them) and emerge from the curves and branches of trees in their natural habitat of South and Central America’s forests, mountains, and deserts.
Air plants are among our favorites; they look great on their own and are included in many of our Plant Craft items, such as aeriums and mounts.
The following are the best methods for air plant care that we advocate. We’ll start with an overview of how to care for air plants in general, then move on to specific adaptations for aeriums, terrariums, and mounted Tillandsia.
Air plants require strong, indirect light to grow. Rooms with southern or eastern facing windows are ideal because they will be brilliantly lit by the sun for the majority of the day. North-facing windows also perform well, as long as the plant is close to the window and the window isn’t obscured by trees or a neighboring apartment complex. Western light arrives late in the day and can be extremely hot and strong. You don’t want to fry your air plant, so be careful!
As a general rule, the more light the air plant can tolerate, the higher the humidity in your environment. This implies that if you’re going to put your air plant somewhere where it’ll get a lot of light, you’ll need to spray it more frequently – twice a week, if not everyday. Because the humidity from your shower will take care of most plant misting, a sunny bathroom provides a great home for an air plant.
Many customers question if they can keep an air plant in an office or basement room with no natural light. Yes, however there are a few guidelines to follow in order to assure your plant’s success.
It’s essential to use full spectrum (fluorescent) lighting. Regular incandescent bulbs do not produce the quality of light required for photosynthesizing by these plants. Your Tillandsia should be no more than 3 feet from the source of light. Also, if you’re using fluorescent lighting, the plants will need at least 12 hours of light per day.
If you live in a basement or want an air plant in your office, we recommend purchasing a dedicated bulb for your plant (such as a Gro-Lux, Repta-Sun, or Vita-Lite) and placing it on a 12-hour timer to ensure that your plant receives all of the light it need.
Watering an air plant is the most difficult aspect of air plant upkeep. Some individuals swear by misting, while others swear by soaking, and still others combine the two in their air plant care routine.
Watering air plants is difficult in our experience because the plant’s needs vary drastically depending on the location in which it is situated. The first step in watering your air plant is to assess its surroundings. What kind of light does your plant get? At this time of year, what is the temperature in your home? Is the environment excessively dry (does your plant have access to a heater or fireplace?) Is it hot and humid?
After you’ve answered these questions, you can tailor the air plant watering schedule to your specific requirements. As a starting point, we recommend the following:
- Soak your air plant in room temperature tap water (or rain/pond water if you can find it) for 5-10 minutes every one to two weeks.
- After soaking, gently shake your plant to remove any extra water. In a light area, turn it upside down and place it on a towel. This is vital information! If you leave your air plants in too much water, they will quickly rot.
- The plant should be able to dry completely in no more than 3 hours after the soaking is finished. If your plant is left wet for an extended period of time, it may rot. To help things dry faster, try putting it in a brighter area with better air circulation.
- Mist your plant thoroughly once a week to ensure that the entire surface is wet (but not so much that there is water dripping down into the plant).
- The more water you need to water as the weather gets hotter and dryer (summer, early fall). The less water your air plant needs the cooler and more humid the air is (winter and spring). But keep in mind that heaters and fires dry out the air!
- Do all of your watering first thing in the morning. Evening soaking or misting interferes with the plants’ capacity to breathe overnight, resulting in a longer drying time.
The browning or crisping of your air plant’s leaf tips is a sign that it’s been under-watered. When air plants are under-watered, their inherent concave shape becomes more pronounced.
Unfortunately, it’s generally too late to salvage your air plant if it’s been over-watered. Your plant has likely succumbed to rot if the base of the plant turns dark or black, and leaves are dropping out or off from the center.
When it comes to temperature, air plants are relatively laid-back. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures should be around 10 degrees colder at night than they are during the day.
Once or twice a month, incorporate orchid or Bromeliad fertilizer into your watering routine to keep your air plant happy. Simply sprinkle a pinch into your water and carry on as usual. Fertilizing your air plant promotes blooming and reproduction (or pup more on this later)
Air plants only flower once in their lives, did you know? These blossoms can last anywhere from a few days to a few months, depending on the species, and can come in a wide range of vibrant colors, including pink, red, and purple. Flowering is the highest point in an air plant’s life cycle, but it also signals the start of the plant’s old age: after flowering, the plant will die.
But don’t give up! Depending on the species, your air plant will reproduce by putting out 2-8 flowers just before, during, or after flowering “Puppies.” These tiny air plants will eventually grow into their own mother plants, despite their modest size. When the pups are about 1/3-1/2 the size of the mother plant, they can be securely separated. Take care not to pull them out too soon, since they are absorbing nutrients from the mother air plant!
Above: A brass mister is a stylish and classic Tillandsia Xerographica companion.
While larger air plants look great on a windowsill or tabletop, we prefer to incorporate their smaller siblings into our living art “Aeriums” are a type of terrarium that is solely dedicated to air plants! Here’s everything you need to know about air plant care in glass.
- Simply take your plant from the aerium, terrarium, or glass to mist/soak it, then allow it to dry before putting it in the glass, as directed above.
- Keep in mind that maintaining your air plant in glass will produce a microclimate in which the glass vessels will be more humid and hot than the surrounding space.
- Avoid placing glass vessels too close to a window. The sun’s beams are amplified through glass. You don’t want your plant to cook!
- You won’t be able to soak your plant because it won’t come out of the glass, so you’ll have to rely only on misting. This is perfectly OK.
- Smaller glass means less air circulation, which means longer drying time for the plant and less misting.
- Larger glass = more air circulation = faster plant drying time = more misting.
- When misting your air plant, make sure to mist around it rather than directly into it. You don’t want to overwater it; instead, you want to keep it moist.
- We recommend starting with weekly misting and adjusting as needed, depending on the vessel.
You won’t be able to wet your mounted air plant like you can with air plants in small glass pots. Mounted air plants, on the other hand, will require more regular misting than aeriums because they are not enclosed in a humid microclimate. Starting with twice weekly misting and adjusting as needed, depending on how long it takes your plant to dry in your location, we recommend starting with twice weekly misting.
If you follow these air plant care instructions, your Tillandsia should thrive in no time! Do you have any queries or tips regarding caring for air plants? Let us know in the comments!
Why is my air plant turning purple?
If this is the case, the plant’s base will have a purple or black tint, suggesting that rot has set in. The bad news is that rot is a death sentence. On the plus side, rot is completely avoidable. Here’s how to do it: Set the plant on its side or upside-down for about 4 hours after soaking in water to allow the air plant to dry.
How do I get my air plant to bloom?
The wait is finally over! Your air plant has finally bloomed after a lot of love and care! You might wonder how it got to this point, and how I can properly care for my flowering air plant. Maybe you’re still waiting for your Tillandsia to flower and aren’t sure what you can do to speed up the process. This post is for you in either situation.
Let’s start with some basic information on the flowering cycle of air plants. The bloom, as with any flowering plant, signifies the beginning of the reproductive phase in the life cycle of an air plant. Air plants only bloom once in their lifetime, which may surprise you. Tillandsias produce a variety of flowers depending on the species, with many of them producing stunningly colorful blossoms in a range of hues from delicate pinks to blazing reds, as well as vibrant purples and yellows.
Within the Tillandsia realm, there are many different types of blooms. When some plants, such as the capitata peach, begin to blossom, they turn a delicate pink color and blooms emerge from the middle of the plant. Small buds grow from the heart of the plant in other plants like the aeranthros and stricta. The bud eventually expands and opens to show flowers. Some blooms may survive a few days, while others can last weeks.
Some air plants, such as the caput-medusae and the xerographica, have substantially longer bloom cycles than others. These plants produce huge flower tracts known as inflorescence, which can reach a height of over a foot in certain kinds! The blooms on the tract open out and fall out of the inflorescence over time. A bloom tract on some Tillandsias can last up to a year.
You could see some new growth on the side of your air plant after the bloom cycle is finished. These are tiny air plants, often known as offsets or offshoots “Puppies.” These little babies will grow up and become their own people “the “adult” air plant, and the cycle will start all over again! You can snip off the bloom tract that came out of the plant to boost the next stage of growth after the bloom, which will kick start the pup stage! Depending on the air plant species, the air plant will produce one to three pups after blooming. You can either remove the puppies or let them to form a clump once they reach around 1/3 the size of the mother plant.
Most healthy Tillandsias will blossom at some point, but they will need special care and a lot of light to do so. You can boost flowers and pup production by using a diluted fertilizer like our specially designed Air Plant Food once a month or so to help speed up the blooming process.
So, how should a Tillandsia in bloom be cared for? Keep watering and feeding your plant, first and foremost! When watering blooming air plants, however, you’ll want to avoid getting the flower wet, so instead of dunking or soaking the entire plant, we recommend dunking, misting, or holding only the parts of the air plant that allow you to avoid wetting the bloom beneath softly running water. If the bloom is buried in water for an extended period of time, it may rot or wilt. Because all of the plant’s energy is directed into the bloom and, eventually, the puppies, a blooming plant may require a bit more water than usual. Keep an eye on your plant to ensure that it remains happy and healthy!
You might be able to enjoy your own blooms with only a little light, water, and fertilizer! Good luck with your blossoming!
Are you curious as to what will happen next? After the Bloom is the second installment in the blooming series, as well as our essay on Air Plant Propagation.
Why is my air plant losing color?
Most air plants that don’t get enough light don’t show symptoms immediately away, but if their leaves start to lose their color or cup inward and fall, it’s a sign that they aren’t getting enough light to stay healthy. As a result, make sure they’re in a location where they can get plenty of brilliant yet indirect or filtered sunlight so they can photosynthesize continuously.
What kind of water do you use for air plants?
On our Facebook page, we get a lot of queries on how to water air plants, so I wanted to elaborate a little. While Tillandsia (also known as air plants) are easier to care for than many other plant kinds, they do require some upkeep and TLC, and water plays an important role in their overall health. Here are some of the most common questions we hear about watering air plants, along with our answers:
This is mostly determined by your climate and where you keep the air plants, as well as the Tillandsia species (learn more about mesic vs. xeric air plants here) and the type of environment in which it grows in nature. We reside in Tampa, FL, so it’s very humid here for the majority of the year, and we don’t run the heat in our house during the winter like our friends up North (I’m not trying to rub it in!). We water our plants twice a week on average, but individuals who live in drier climes will need to water more frequently. Depending on the time of year, you may discover that you need to water your plants less. It also depends on where you keep them in your house or office. A humid bathroom will keep the plants moist, but those near an air vent or heat source will need to be watered more frequently. (Please note that keeping your plants near heat sources is not recommended.)
Note that, while humidity might slow the drying process, it is not a suitable watering method in and of itself!
Again, you’ll want to adapt your watering methods based on your climate and air plant species, but we recommend soaking your plants in water at least once a week for MOST air plants and settings. You can use anything that allows you to totally submerge the air plants, such as a bowl, bucket, or your sink. Soak them for 30-60 minutes at least once a week, and every other week if you live in a dry area, give them a longer soak for an hour or more. If you live in a humid environment or have a xeric air plant, you may want to cut the soak time in half.
After bathing, make sure the air plants are completely dry. Turn them over and softly shake them, or lay them out to dry with the leaves down. Allowing water to remain in the leaves can cause the plants to decay. The plants should be placed in an area with sufficient air circulation and should be able to dry entirely in 4 hours. If your plants are housed in a globe or terrarium, ensure sure they are thoroughly dry before bringing them back home!
You’ll notice how wide and open the leaves are after soaking them, and how much more “happy” they appear. This is how a properly hydrated air plant should seem! If the color turns slightly dull and the leaves begin to close/curl over time, this is an indication that your Tillandsia is thirsty, and you should give them another soak. If your air plant is in desperate need of water, soak it for several hours or overnight to see if you can rehydrate it. Before soaking or spraying them again, make sure they have a chance to dry thoroughly.
It’s also a good idea to spray the plants in between waterings. If you live in a dry area, this might be a terrific method to keep plants healthy and offer them some additional attention. Unless you have one of the few varieties of air plants that like low moisture, such as the T. tectorum (which we only propose misting) or the T. xerographica, misting is not a substitute for a proper soak (which we recommend dunking instead of soaking).
When it comes to water, air plants aren’t picky, and most tap water is good, but it all depends on the water quality in your location. Because these waters are more nutrient-dense, the best water to use is rain water, aquarium water, or pond water (note: if using one of these waters, don’t add any additional fertilizer). If you’re using tap water, let it out for a few hours to allow the chlorine to disperse (maybe 24 hours in some areas.)
Do not use distilled water because it is too “clean” for these plants and will deprive them of the nutrients they require. Also, avoid using artificially softened water because it contains too much salt for Tillandsia.
We recommend soaking your air plants in the morning to ensure that they dry completely throughout the day, as well as because air plants utilize the evening to breathe carbon dioxide and will be unable to do so if they are wet in the evenings.
This is known as CAM, and you can learn more about it in our page on how air plants breathe. You can check on them before going to bed and put them back in their terrariums or displays if you expose them to some indirect sunlight.
These are the most frequently asked questions about watering air plants. Did we respond to your question? If you’re not sure, just ask! Are you looking for more information on how to care for air plants? Visit our Air Plant Care page for more information.
How long should I soak my air plant?
We’ve discovered that soaking air plants in water works best for them here at the Air Plant Supply Co. It’s vital to keep in mind that air plants get all of their nourishment through their leaves rather than their roots. The roots are simply used to secure the air plant to a host tree, rock, or even the ground. Every week to ten days, soak your air plants in a bowl of water for 20 minutes to an hour. Completely submerge the plant. If your plant is blooming, you may want to maintain the bud above the water to avoid disturbing it, even though they are constantly wet in nature. To avoid shocking the plant, make sure the water is lukewarm or room temperature.
Can you bring an air plant back to life?
How can I revive my air plant is a common concern that most people have at some point during their tillandsia growing adventure. The first step in revitalizing any air plant is to figure out what’s causing the problem. Then you can take the necessary steps to address the issue that is causing your air plant to die.
It’s possible that your air plant will turn quite white or gray at times. While a covering of white or gray hair or trichromes on your air plants is typical in most situations, a naturally green air plant that is going excessively white or gray could be an early symptom of your air plant drying.
The good news is that if your air plant becomes very white or gray, it is not dying. When the air plant lacks water, the trichromes simply become more apparent, causing the plant to appear paler than usual.
A dry air plant can be revived by immersing it in water for 5-8 hours. After the soak, shake off any excess water and allow your air plant to dry within 4 hours of watering. Rep the long soaking every 2-3 days until the plant no longer seems to be dry.
If your air plant is drying up again after being rejuvenated with a series of extended soakings, check the light, temperature, and humidity levels of the surrounding environment.
To assist your air plant maintain moisture, keep it away from direct or very bright indirect light. Air plants enjoy temperatures between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If you expose your air plant to severely cold or hot temperatures, it may be difficult to revive it. Extreme temperatures can dehydrate the air plant to the point where it can no longer thrive.
Root rot is usually indicated by brown or black leaves on the air plant. When air plants are not thoroughly dried out after watering, they might get root rot. When the air plant’s leaves are persistently damp, fungal infections can develop, causing lasting damage to the plant’s cells. The air plant would eventually turn brown or black as a result of these dead cells.
You may resurrect your air plant by gently plucking the brown or black leaves as soon as you notice them to prevent the infection from spreading. To avoid root rot, keep the air plant in a location with sufficient air circulation and allow it to dry quickly after each watering.
Severe occurrences of root rot that spread to the plant’s center can cause the air plant to die. If the root rot is severe enough that the plant begins to fall apart, you’ll need to start over with a new plant.
Growing air plants is a trial-and-error procedure that can take some time. While air plants might wither due to dryness, lack of light, or a lack of nutrients in the water, the most common cause of death is root rot, which is caused by the air plant not drying out correctly.
To avoid the risk of root rot in the future, try other approaches and situate your air plant somewhere with more air movement.
Should I water my air plant?
Isn’t it true that air plants live on air? No, that’s not right! Air plants don’t need to be watered because they don’t grow in soil. While the plants can withstand prolonged drought, they will not develop or thrive and will finally die if water is in short supply. If you follow the instructions below for watering your plants on a regular basis, they will live for a long time. The good news is that, because these plants are so forgiving, you won’t have to worry about their upkeep. When you leave on vacation, there’s no need to hire a babysitter.