The origin of the Christmas cactus is entrenched in hot, tropical conditions in Brazil, adding to the mystery. Christmas cacti are a Schlumbergera family plant that blooms during the Christmas season in the Northern Hemisphere. They flower in April to May in their native location, and the popular name has no meaning. Crab cactus is the name given to them in Europe because of its clawed limbs.
Schlumbergera is divided into six species. Several of these are labeled as “holiday” cactus in commercial production. The Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus plants are named for the fact that they bloom from September to February and are forced to bloom and sold as gift plants during the Thanksgiving and Christmas seasons. The genus name honors Frederic Schlumberger, a French exotic plant species collector. Allen Cunningham discovered the group of holiday cactus in the early 1800s, and by the 1900s, there were multiple hybrids.
Do Christmas cactus only bloom at Christmas?
The Christmas cactus is a popular houseplant for a reason: it’s beautiful! They produce gorgeous, tubular flowers in pink or lilac colors when they bloom. They’re a fantastic plant because of their lovely blossoms, long bloom time, and low maintenance requirements. We’re sure you have a Christmas cactus in your household!
About Christmas Cacti
The Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi) and its cousins do not live in hot, arid conditions like deserts or plains, unlike other cacti. These epiphytic succulents are native to southern Brazil’s tropical rainforests, where they grow on tree branches and absorb the high humidity, dappled sunlight, and moderate temperatures.
The bottom line is that you shouldn’t treat a Christmas cactus like any other cactus or succulent. They can’t withstand the same hot, dry circumstances as other cactus. These cacti require more frequent watering than most succulents, but you must be careful not to overwater them. (For more information, see the thorough care instructions below.)
Thanksgiving, Easter, or Christmas Cactus?
Easter cactus (S. gaertneri), Thanksgiving cactus (S. truncata), and Christmas cactus are the three primary types of “holiday” cacti (S. x buckleyi). Each holiday cactus blooms closest to the holiday for which it is named. Most “Christmas cacti” offered nowadays, on the other hand, are actually Thanksgiving cacti, which bloom from November to February and hence go unrecognized as Christmas cacti. See our post on the different types of holiday cacti and how to identify them apart for more information.
Note: On this page, we use the word “Christmas cactus” to refer to all three of these species because it is the most generally used term and our care advice applies to all of them!
Is a Christmas cactus a true cactus?
While poinsettias remain the most popular Christmas holiday gift, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) is also a popular choice. Since the 1800s, Christmas Cacti have been kept as a festive plant. The original Christmas cactus was created by French botanist Charles Lemaire and named after Frédéric Schlumberger, a French horticulture collector. Although Schlumbergera is the true botanical name, they are more commonly referred to as Zygocactus, which was its previous name. The original hybrids blossomed over the Christmas season and sported cherry-red blossoms.
In the year 1819, the forerunners of today’s Christmas cactus were discovered in southeast Brazil. Schlumbergera truncata, the first to be discovered, blooms in October and November and is now known as the “Thanksgiving cactus.” Another, the Schlumbergera russelliana, was found in 1837 and is known as the “Easter cactus” because it blooms between February and April. The first “Christmas Cactus” was a cross between these two. Aside from blossoming at different times, these plants have somewhat distinct leaves. In contrast to Thanksgiving cactus, which have sharp teeth on the margins, Christmas cacti have flattened leaves with rounded teeth on the margins. The leaf joints of Easter cacti have pointy teeth and fibrous hairs.
There are around 300 hybrid types in various hues and combinations of white, pink, red, fuchsia, and less commonly orange and yellow. This plant belongs to a group of epiphytic cacti native to the South American rainforests, and it blooms in the winter. The plant isn’t a genuine cactus, and it’s not as drought-resistant as its name suggests. It is, however, a succulent plant that can store a significant amount of water in its leaves.
Christmas cacti aren’t only popular holiday gift plants; they’re also a source of heated discussion among gardeners. They can and do flourish for many years if properly cared for. Plants that are 40 or 50 years old are not uncommon to outlive their owners. Grandmother’s plant or Aunt Mary’s Christmas Cactus are two examples of plants that are frequently passed down to the next generation. During the yearly flowering phase, these long-lived plants will produce what appears to be bark and grow to be several feet tall with hundreds of blooms.
There appears to be a lot of misunderstanding about how to care for, maintain, and, most importantly, how to get these unusual tropical cacti to bloom again. The cultural prerequisites for all of the holiday cactus are the same. Cactus are known for their heat tolerance, however in lower temperatures, Christmas cacti will preserve their blossoms longer. The Christmas cactus prefers humid conditions, which are not often present in homes. Place the pot with the drip pan on top of a small container filled with pebbles to increase humidity for your cactus. Pour water over the pebbles, but not so much that the water rises above the top layer of stones. As the water evaporates, the humidity around the cactus rises. Keep the plant in a brightly lit area away from drafts caused by heat vents, fireplaces, or other hot air sources. Flower buds can be knocked off the plant by drafts and temperature fluctuations before they have a chance to open.
Because the Christmas cactus is a tropical plant, if the soil becomes too dry, it may shed bloom buds. Drought stress causes the plants to wilt. When the top inch or two of soil seems dry to the touch, water liberally. The amount of time between watering episodes is affected by air temperature, light, growth rate, and relative humidity.
Although the plant does not require fertilization while in bloom, most gardeners like the challenge of retaining the plant after the holidays in order to re-bloom the following year. Use a blooming houseplant fertilizer and follow the package guidelines for how much and how often to feed while the plants are actively growing.
While the Christmas cactus can adapt to low light, plants that have been exposed to higher light intensities produce more flowers. Indoors, place your plants in a bright spot. In the summer, you can bring your plants outside, but make sure they’re in a shady or semi-shady spot. If leaves are exposed to too much light, they may turn crimson. Overexposure to direct sunlight can cause the leaves to scorch or become limp. When it’s time to bring the plants back inside in the fall, gradually increase the number of hours they spend indoors each day to acclimate them to life indoors.
If your plant is constantly drying out and/or wilting, it’s time to repot it into a little larger container. Christmas cacti flower best when they’re confined to a small pot; however, don’t go too big with the pot size.
Christmas cactus require well-drained soil. For succulent plants, use a commercially available potting mix or make your own by mixing two parts ordinary potting soil with one part clean sand or vermiculite. After your Christmas cactus has bloomed, prune it to encourage it to branch out. Pinch off a few parts of each stem with your fingers or cut them off with a sharp knife. To grow new plants, these portions can be rooted in damp vermiculite.
The Christmas cactus is a thermo-photoperiodic plant that blooms at different times of the year. The bud’s formation is influenced by a certain mix of day length and temperature. When the length of the day is nearly equal to the length of the night in the Northern Hemisphere, and the temperature is in the region of 50 to 60 degrees F, these plants will begin to bloom. If you give the Christmas cactus extended, unbroken dark periods, about 12 hours each night, it will blossom. Start applying the dark treatments in mid-October to ensure that the plants are fully bloomed by the holidays. You can keep the plants in a dark closet from 8 p.m. to 8 a.m. every night for 6-8 weeks, or until buds appear. Cool temperatures of about 50 to 55 degrees F will also cause Christmas cacti to bloom, obviating the need for the dark treatments. If chilly treatments are started by early November, plants should be blooming in time for the holidays. Happy Holidays and Happy Gardening!!
What is special about a Christmas cactus?
Although you may receive a variety of presents this Christmas, a Christmas cactus is certainly one-of-a-kind. It’s a fairly common house plant that blooms at the end of December, although it’s lovely all year. It’s also available in a range of colors, so there’s something to like about it. This gratitude would contain these ten facts about Christmas cacti that would make you appreciate this present even more.
1. It’s a cactus, but it thrives in frigid conditions the Christmas cacti should be kept away from heat sources, according to Purdue University Extension Service. It is said that if the cactus is solely exposed to cool temperatures, it will bloom longer. To get the greatest results, keep the cactus cold and away from stoves or heaters. You should also refrain from making frequent drafts. The blossoms may drop before they open if the temperature changes too quickly. The ideal temperature is 68 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Christmas cacti require light to bloom Purdue University Extension recommends placing the plant in a bright spot within the house to retain the flowers as long as possible. If you must take the plant outside during the summer, do it in a somewhat shaded area to avoid direct sunlight burning the leaves.
3. Christmas cactus are native to Brazil and are classified as epiphytes because they grow on top of other plants. They are found in the Brazilian rain forest, snuggled amid the tree limbs, according to Clemson University Cooperative Extension. Because they are tropical plants, they prefer humid conditions.
4. Christmas cacti require rest – according to horticultural specialists at the Cheyenne Botanic Gardens, the Christmas cactus should be kept in a dark room at night. If the plants receive 14 hours or more of continuous darkness per day, the flower buds will form. You’ll have some light at night after the blooms bloom.
5. Unlike the poinsettia, Christmas cacti are not dangerous to animals. Most people are aware of the poisonous nature of poinsettia for pets. Your pet should not have a negative reaction to eating a Christmas cactus, according to the ASPCA.
6. A Christmas cactus can live up to 30 years according to the old Farmer’s Almanac, if properly cared for, a Christmas cactus can live anywhere from 20 to 30 years. The cactus is forced to bloom every year by providing lengthy evenings beginning in early October. Cooler nighttime temperatures would also help.
7. Mist the cacti daily but don’t overwater – before watering a Christmas cactus, the soil should be dry to the touch, according to a horticulturist with the Oregon State University extension office. According to Walter Reeves, the Georgia Gardener, a horticulture expert and radio personality, you should water the cactus leaves regularly to maintain the proper humidity level.
8. Fungus gnats, flower thrips, and root mealybugs may wreak havoc on your Christmas cacti overwatering isn’t the only issue that Christmas cacti face. You should also consider preventative measures, such as removing sick plants and addressing any other issues. Pesticides may be available from commercial producers, but they may be difficult to obtain for home gardeners.
9. 5 Diseases That Can Affect a Christmas Cactus Penn State University Extension has a fact sheet about the most frequent diseases that can affect Christmas cacti. Basal stem rot, botrytis blight, impatiens necrotic spot virus, phytophthora root rot, and pythium root rot are all on their list.
“Most commercial varieties of holiday cactus are actually Schlumbergera truncata, widely known as Thanksgiving cactus or Zygocactus,” according to the University of Massachusetts Extension Service. True Christmas cactus is a 150-year-old interspecific hybrid of Schlumbergera truncata and Schlumbergera russelliana from England. Although it’s a common houseplant, it’s rarely grown commercially.” Who’d have guessed?
What is the real name of the Christmas cactus?
Thanksgiving cactus, holiday cactus, and crab cactus are all names for the Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata). The leaf-shaped stem segments with curled, sharp teeth or claws around the margins are known as crab claws. The leaf segments of the Easter cactus (Schlumbergera buckleyi) have rounded edges. They all originated in the gloomy, damp forests of southeast Brazil. They’re called epiphytes because they thrive on trees above ground, in places where branches meet and decomposing fallen leaves and mosses collect.
Despite the fact that this plant is called a cactus, the care it requires has little to do with its desert cousins. It’s a cactus that grows in the forest. Its requirements can be traced back to their source. The optimum time to plant a Christmas cactus is when it is warm “I’m stuck in a pot.” This entails keeping it in a small container for as long as possible before transferring it to a little larger pot. They prefer a nutrient-dense organic potting mix and should not be allowed to dry out. When the plant is blossoming, increase the amount of water it receives. They enjoy indirect light that is bright. As the plants begin to burn, the leaf segments might turn a dark crimson color.
‘The’ “The “secret” to getting your Christmas cactus to bloom in the years after you buy it boils down to two factors: light and temperature. These two are the keys to the kingdom of flowers. Flowers are produced by Christmas cacti in a chilly, short-day cycle. It takes at least eight days of 16 hours of darkness and 8 hours of light every day to start the creation of flower buds. Do not turn on the lights at night, even if only for a brief time, wherever the plant is put. This violates the required dark cycle. It should be around 61 degrees Fahrenheit. Avoid placing the plant in an area where it will be exposed to cold or hot air drafts.
It’s as simple as putting the Christmas cactus on the window sill in a chilly room and not turning on the lights. If the plant was in a brightly lit room, the side closest to the window often grows buds, but the plant’s illuminated side does not. If the plant produces flower buds but then loses them, it’s usually due to either too much or too little water or a lack of air humidity. The good news is that if their temperature and light needs are met, Christmas cacti are reasonably straightforward to re-bloom.
Why do Christmas cactus drop their buds?
A: Your new Christmas cactus appears to be reacting to a change in the environment. Overwatering, temperature fluctuations, and a lack of light can all cause buds to drop. Your plant was given careful care to ensure that it bloomed over the Christmas season, as well as ideal growing conditions. It faced less-than-ideal circumstances somewhere in transit, or perhaps in your home. The bud drop that results is the plant’s way of dealing with the stressful circumstances.
Why is my Christmas cactus turning red?
A magnesium deficiency, which is a common illness in Christmas cacti, is characterized by red or purple-tinged foliage and wilting. It happens primarily during the winter months, when feeding and watering are restricted and the plant’s nutrient uptake is slowed by freezing temperatures. Winter temperatures of 55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for the cactus. Epsom salts can be used to treat a magnesium deficit. 8 heaping tablespoons Epsom salts dissolved in 2 1/2 gallons water, plus 1 to 2 drops dishwashing liquid Fill a spray bottle halfway with the mixture and spritz the tops and undersides of the foliage. Reapply the mixture every two weeks until the foliage regains its natural color.
How many years can a Christmas cactus live?
With good cause, the Christmas cactus may be found all over throughout the holiday season. It’s a blooming succulent that’s easy to care for, has beautiful blossoms, and may survive for up to 100 years if properly cared for! That’s correct! This plant can last for decades, giving your holidays a splash of color for generations. That’s a fairly good return on investment for a plant as simple and low-maintenance as the Christmas cactus!
How old is the oldest Christmas cactus?
The cactus was discovered to be 111 years old. Miller’s great-grandmother, Bohnet, gave the plant to Gladys Biloff, Jacquie Biloff’s mother-in-law, in 1952, when it had grown too large for her home.
Should you water a Christmas cactus when it is blooming?
Flower buds can drop more quickly if there is a lack of water or if the temperature changes dramatically. Watering: Mist your plant frequently while it is blooming to keep the soil uniformly moist. Light: For moderate light and some direct sun, place the cactus in an east-facing window.
Do you water a Christmas cactus from the top or bottom?
Remember that Christmas cactus plants demand moist soil rather than the dry dirt preferred by most other succulents. When the top inch or two of soil on a Christmas cactus is dry, water it. Fill the pot saucer with stones and water to just below the tops of the pebbles (the pot should not be sitting directly in water) to assist improve the humidity around your plant. As the water evaporates, the air will become more humid. (See below for watering suggestions if you’re attempting to get your Christmas cactus to rebloom.)