Phalaenopsis orchids, sometimes referred to as moth orchids, with a spray of blooms that each resemble a moth in flight. Apart from red and blue, individual blooms range in size from 3 to 6 inches broad and come in a variety of colors. Moth orchids may grow as potted indoor plants in any zone and are hardy outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 through 12. By correctly pruning a moth orchid’s flower spike after the flowers have faded and fallen but before the tissue starts to brown and dry, you can encourage it to bloom again.
In a bowl, combine water and 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol in equal amounts. A pair of scissor-style pruning shears’ blades should be submerged in the bowl’s solution and let to soak for five minutes. Remove the blades from the solution and let them dry naturally.
The first bump or line beneath the bottommost bloom is the uppermost node of the floral spike. To keep the spike stable, grab the top with one hand. With the pruning shears, make a horizontal cut through the spike, positioning the cut 1/2 to 1 inch above the identified top node.
Use a single-use teaspoon to measure out 1 teaspoon of fungicide powder. In a throwaway bowl, pour the powder. Drop two to three droplets of water into the bowl and place them on the powder’s surface. Use a stick to stir the powder. While stirring the powder, add water two to three drops at a time, stopping until the mixture turns into a thick paste.
Put the cotton swab’s soft end into the fungicide paste. To evenly coat it, roll the swab around in the paste. Use the cotton swab to dab the paste onto the cut end of the orchid’s flower spike, thoroughly covering the exposed plant tissue.
Put the stake’s point into the ground close to the base of the moth orchid. Use plant ties or clips to fasten the flower spike to the stake once it has been gently pulled against it.
After trimming the orchid’s bloom spike, check it every two to three days to look for browning at the top. Browning at the spike’s apex indicates die-back and warns that a second flush of blooms won’t be produced.
If the top of the flower spike becomes brown, trim it back; otherwise, wait till the flower spike blooms again. If the top of the flower spike turns brown, sterilize the pruning shears as before in a solution made of water and 70 percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol. 1 inch above the flower spike’s base, cut it off. Apply the fungicide paste to the cut end of the flower spike’s stub using the same method as before.
If the flower spike doesn’t develop any browning or other discoloration, let it on the plant so it can develop and produce a second flush of blossoms. After each of the flowers in the second blooming flush has faded and fallen off the stem, trim the flower spike 1 inch above its base. As before, combine the fungicide paste, and apply a thin layer on the cut end of the spike to prevent infection.
Moth orchids should I deadhead them?
Most orchids require strong, indirect light, so a windowsill that faces east or west is frequently ideal. Don’t stand in the direct sun because it can burn the leaves. The majority of indoor orchids are native to humid, tropical locations and require a humid environment. Most centrally heated homes have dry air, so sprinkle the leaves with lukewarm water every two to three days (avoid splashing the flowers), or place the pot on a tray of damp pebbles to help retain moisture.
Keeping the plant label after purchase can be helpful because different varieties of orchid require somewhat varied care. However, in general, cultivate orchids in specialized orchid compost, don’t overwater them, and feed them with fertilizer for orchids from spring through autumn.
To guarantee that your orchids flower and survive for many years, follow our vital orchid care advice.
Where to grow orchids
The majority of orchids need direct sunshine that is brilliant. But some orchids, like Vanda orchids, need direct sunlight. An east or west-facing windowsill is ideal for moth orchids and other plants that require intense yet indirect light. The leaves can be scorched by excessive light.
Moth orchids thrive best indoors all year round at a consistent temperature of about 18C.
Other orchids, such as Dendrobium, Cymbidium, and Oncidium orchids, require a nighttime temperature of at least 10C, therefore in the summer they can be placed outside to a sunny spot away from direct sunlight.
How to plant orchids
Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) must be grown in transparent containers so that their green roots may perform photosynthesis. Orchids like Dendrobium and Cymbidium can be cultivated in opaque pots since they lack photosynthetic roots. Vanda orchids can be grown in empty vases or strung from wires and don’t require any kind of pot at all.
Use specialized orchid compost and avoid over-potting them because doing so will result in root rot because too much compost will take a long time to dry up.
Caring for orchids
The majority of orchid home plants are adapted to humid, tropical environments and thrive there. Most homes with central heating have dry air, so sprinkle the leaves every two to three days with tepid water. Avoid spraying flowers, though, as the petals may become water-spotted.
Overwatering is the most typical cause of orchid death. Lift the pot first to see if it feels heavy before watering; otherwise, just water when it feels light. This will prevent overwatering your plant. Showy Vanda orchids, which are frequently cultivated in glass vases without compost, need a particular watering schedule: fill the vase with water each day in the summer and empty it after 30 minutes.
Look at the roots of the orchid before watering it. If these are green, don’t water them; wait till they turn silvery. From spring till autumn, fertilize your orchids.
Because orchid roots are prone to root rot, it’s crucial that they never sit in water. Water orchids by submerging the entire container, letting it drain, and then repeating the process above. It’s best to use tepid water, and rainfall is even better.
How to repot an orchid
Orchids don’t require frequent repotting like most other houseplants do, and they frequently grow best when their roots are tied. But after two or three years, it’s worthwhile to remove them from their pots and scrape off as much compost as you can. Replant the plant in the same container with new orchid compost, or if it won’t fit, pick a slightly larger container.
The best course of action is to avoid using terracotta pots when planting and replanting orchids.
The roots of the orchid will cling to the surface, making subsequent repotting challenging.
How to encourage moth orchids to flower again
Cut the stem off moth orchids just above a visible joint once all the blooms have fallen (node). Another flower stalk may be produced as a result, in which case you should clip it to a support. Remove the stem at the base if no shoot develops and the original stem turns straw-colored. Cut off wasted stems as soon as possible because the majority of other orchids won’t bloom twice on the same stalk.
Because orchids are produced for their flowers, it’s crucial to properly deadhead them in order to promote new blooms. Cut off faded flowers slightly above the next flower bud because moth orchids produce numerous blooms on a single stem. On other orchids, the old bloom stem can be trimmed all the way down to the base.
Growing orchids: pests and diseases
Scale insects and mealybugs are the two most prevalent pests of orchids. Stickiness on the leaves or adjoining surfaces, or black sooty mold, are indications of an infestation. Mealybugs prefer young leaves, while scale insects prefer the leaf surfaces (above and below) and flower stalks. Pests can easily be eliminated by hand, and the leaves can be cleaned with a soapy sponge. Alternately, use an insecticide to spray.
If the leaves on your orchid become burned, don’t pull them off unless the plant still has a number of healthy leaves.
How deep should the stem of an orchid be cut?
If your orchid bloomed throughout the spring and summer, fall is when you’ll probably notice it start to become dormant. Although the blooms will droop and drop off, your orchid is still alive. Instead, it is conserving energy for a subsequent blooming season.
Even though bloom loss is not a reason for alarm, it does indicate that your orchid needs some assistance to get through the months of hibernation. By cutting your orchid spikes, you can help with the reblooming process in a number of ways. The fall season is the best time to promote reblooming in upcoming months due to the declining temperatures.
The chore of removing spikes can be difficult for a novice orchid keeper. But with the correct knowledge, it’s simple to incorporate into your routine for caring for orchids. Simply adhere to these four instructions!
Step One: Assess Your Spikes
Your spikes’ condition will determine how you should approach the trimming procedure. Green and solid to the touch spikes indicate good health. Spikes that are unhealthy are brown or yellow in hue. Some orchids have a single spike, whereas others have two. Before you start trimming the spikes, be aware of the type you are working with.
Step Two: Gather Your Tools
You should only trim your spikes with hygienic, clean tools. Use hot water and soap to thoroughly clean the tool blades. Rinse thoroughly to ensure that there is no soap residue left. You may also sterilize non-coated instruments using a gas burner or alcohol lamp’s flame.
Step Three: Trim
Keep in mind that the way you trim your spikes will depend on how healthy they are.
Follow these recommendations:
Look for a node under the lowest flower bloom for strong, green spikes. Cut 1 inch off the top of that node.
For orchids with two spikes: Remove one spike from the plant’s base. One inch above the node behind the lowest flower bloom, cut the other spike.
Step Four: Maintain
Maintaining orderly spikes enables your orchid to save energy for reblooming. While it may appear that cutting your orchid will harm it, you are actually improving its chances of renewal.
Expose your orchid to colder temperatures to encourage reblooming, but watch out for sudden drops in temperature.
How should orchids be cared after after flowering?
After flowering is over, a Phalaneopsis orchid may still produce one or two further blooms. Only if the stem is sound, green, and shows no signs of decay. Use a sterile tool to cut the stem off at the base if it has turned brown or started to soften anyplace. The plant’s energy is redirected to the roots as a result. After blooming, Phalaneopsis orchid stems in good condition can be pruned down to the second or third node. These could cause a bloom to emerge from the growth node.
Collectors and gardeners advise that when caring for orchids once the blooms fall off, only a portion of the stem should be removed. After an orchid blooms, the American Orchid Society advises applying cinnamon powder or even melted wax to seal the wound and stop infection.
Other orchid species won’t bloom from the spent flower stalk since they require specific circumstances in order to create flowers. Some plants, like Dendrobiums, which require 6 to 8 weeks with little water, even require a dormant period before they can produce buds. For cattleya to form buds, it needs cool nights of 45 F (7 C), but warm days.
Between waterings, let the soil a little bit dry out, but never let your orchid’s soil go completely dry. After blooming, orchid care may require repotting. Orchids prefer confined spaces and only truly require new soil when it starts to degrade. Use a nice orchid mix that contains perlite, sphagnum moss, coconut fiber, and bark. When repotting, be extremely gently. Root damage can be lethal, and damage to the young flower shoots can stop blooming.
Do aged stems from orchids rebloom?
Only Phalaenopsis (the moth orchid), one of the more widely accessible orchids, will bloom again from an old spike. If given a little extra attention, phalaenopsis will typically re-bloom.
Where can I find dead orchid blossoms to cut?
It is a joy to see your Phalaenopsis orchid develop lovely blossoms. Even though the blossoms can endure for months, eventually they will lose their color. Dead blooms on your Phal not only have a terrible appearance, but they also have the potential to infect neighbouring plants or other sections of the plant with diseases. To get rid of dead blossoms from your orchid, follow these directions:
- Make sure the faded blossom on your Phalaenopsis orchid is actually dead before you begin to remove it. It’s time to pull the flower if the flower spike is drooping, discolored, and has brownish borders. Numerous orchids have multiple blooms on a spike-like stem. The first indications of fading should be seen on flowers that are situated at the lowest section of the flower spike because blooms typically begin to open from the bottom bud.
- A dead flower on your Phal can be removed simply cutting it off with a good set of scissors. Assure proper sterilization of the scissors.
- The dead flower’s stalk should be enclosed by the blades of the scissors where it joins the floral spike. Cut quickly to get a clean cut.
- To prevent it from spreading illness to the plant or other neighboring plants, dispose of the severed flower in the trash.
- Each fading flower along the floral spike should keep being removed.
- If you want to preserve the blossoms attached for as long as possible, it is also acceptable to let them fall off naturally.
- You can cut the spike about half an inch above a node to cause reblooming. In two or three months, this node might produce fresh blossoms.
Learn how to encourage reblooming in Phalaenopsis orchids by watching this video on orchid care.
How can you make an orchid bloom once more?
Your moth orchid should bloom at least once a year for a few months if not more. Gerritsen’s will bloom for eight to ten months in some cases.
At the plant’s base, first remove the old flower stalk. After that, place your moth orchid in a space in your home that mimics the conditions that will urge it to bloom once more. It will first require daily temperature dips of at least 10 degrees from day to night over the course of a month.
“According to Mary, the temperature in your home usually stays at a constant 68 degrees, so there aren’t many abrupt changes in temperature. Therefore, place your orchid in a room that occasionally becomes chilly next to a window. The heat will decrease as the sun sets, and the cold will encourage it to bloom once more.
Tip: “My room has a south-facing window, no heat vent, and is essentially made of glass on two sides and a skylight, which causes it to get hotter during the day, according to Gerritsen.