When To Transplant House Plants

The majority of houseplants can thrive for years in the same container. However, some quickly expanding species, like philodendron or pothos, may overflow their container and require repotting every few years. When the roots of a plant start to protrude through the drainage holes, it is usually time for a new pot. If water flows straight through the pot and out the drainage holes whenever you add moisture, that is another warning indicator.

Of course, some plants, like orchids and snake plants, don’t mind small spaces, but even they eventually require a new location as their roots entwine.

In general, the spring and summer when the plant is actively growing are the optimum times to repot your houseplant. Although it’s best to do it at least three to four weeks before bringing the plant indoors for the winter, you can also transplant plants in the fall. Your plant should adjust to its new container while it is still enjoying its summer break.

Check the roots of the plant after gently removing it from the pot. It’s time for an upgrade if they are knotted, firmly encircling the interior of the pot, or if a lot of the dirt is disappearing. Choose a container that is an inch or two wider than the one your plant is now in.

Pick the new pot wisely. Clay (terra-cotta) pots have a lovely appearance but are permeable, causing the soil to dry up more quickly. They are ideal for plants like succulents, cactus, orchids, ponytail palms, and snake plants that prefer quick drainage. In order to prevent them from sucking the water out of the soil, it is best to soak them in water for a few hours before planting. Use plastic containers with tropical houseplants like ferns, African violets, anthuriums, and spathiphyllum because they retain soil moisture longer. However, regardless of the kind of pot you use, make sure it has a hole in the bottom to let extra water drain out. Use a pot that is approximately two inches wider than the one your plant is currently in.

Use a high-quality commercial potting soil made for indoor plants; some soil blends are even available for particular plant species, such cacti or African violets. Useless to utilize garden soil. The ideal soil should be fluffy and light, with plenty of sterilized organic matter and compost to help retain moisture. Cheap potting soil may be excessively heavy and retain too much moisture, so it’s not always a good deal.

Soil should be added to the pot until the plant’s crown (where the roots meet the stem) is at the same height as it was growing before. To remove air pockets, gently compact the dirt around the roots and water. After planting, include a saucer to collect runoff. At this time, don’t feed your plants. In fact, you might want to wait until early spring to fertilize if you are repotting in the fall. Additionally, remember that a lot of potting soils already contain fertilizer, so you shouldn’t worry too much about feeding your plants right immediately.

Can indoor plants be potted in the winter?

As they mature, plants prefer to be potted up into bigger containers. More dirt can feed the root systems in larger containers. Years of growing in a pot can cause plants to become root-bound, which can result in death. The opportunity to repot indoor plants in the winter allows the ardent gardener to avoid frostbite on their thumbs!

If you notice roots on the surface of your pots, that is a sign that your plant needs to be replanted. Another indication is the presence of roots emerging from the drainage holes at the base of your containers. Another indication that your plants are root-bound is slow growth. Look to check if the roots are wrapping around the pot’s edge. Repotting your plant is necessary if the roots are swirling around the rootball.

Make sure the pot you choose matches the decor in your house and is the right size for the plant. If you’re repotting, avoid using large pots. Generally speaking, you should make the present container two inches bigger. The roots may rot if the new pot is too large and can contain too much water. To allow water to permeate the soil, ensure that the containers include drainage holes. Choose a saucer that matches the new pot to protect your carpet or hardwood flooring.

As the planting media, use a premium potting soil blend that has been fertilized. For the majority of indoor plants, the potting soils from Espoma Organic are good choices.

Use the following tips to make repotting easy:

  • Remove the plant from its current container. To dislodge the plant, you might need to run a knife or trowel along the side.
  • If the roots are coiled, pull them apart or, if they are very root-bound, trim them.
  • After placing the plant in the center of the new pot and filling it with quality potting soil, add soil to the bottom of the pot.
  • Water deeply to settle the dirt and wet the roots.

After being replanted, it is normal for the plant to experience shock. While the plant heals, try to keep it out of direct sunlight for a few weeks and maintain a consistent moisture level in the soil.

How soon after purchase should plants be repotted?

Houseplants are currently popular. And as a company that was founded on a passion for gardening (both indoors and out! ), we are overjoyed to see it. There’s always something new to learn about the flora we love so much, whether you’re an indoor gardener just getting started or one of the more experienced green thumbs among us. We created this Houseplant 101 Guide in order to impart all of the plant information we have amassed over the years. The series will begin with Julie Czeck, our plant buyer, and her insider advice on how to help your plants adjust to their new containers.

terrain: Dear Julie: We appreciate you sharing your botanical knowledge with us! Let’s begin with the fundamentals Why do plants need to be moved from their grower’s pots?

Julie: Hi! Some plants, such as some succulents and cacti with shallow roots, won’t mind, but most plants require space to allow their roots to expand so they can keep growing if you want them to grow happily and healthily. Additionally, due to the non-porous plastic and linear shape of the plastic pots that most plants arrive in, they aren’t suitable as a permanent home.

Julie: The plant can hang out in the grower’s pot for a while; there is typically no rush to remove it. In general, I advise repotting plants within the first year or as soon as they begin to show signs of growth. Every five years or so after that, I would repot it in a slightly bigger pot.

Julie: My initial thought is where I can make a mess, whether it be outside (during the warmer months), on a table covered in newspaper, or on the kitchen counter. For me, the essential supplies are potting soil for indoor use, extra drainage media to mix with the soil, such as lava stone or perlite (I prefer to mix half and half), drainage to place at the bottom of your pot (lava stone or broken terracotta bits), gloves, and a watering can (always water after transplanting, it converges the old and new soils!).

Sure, Julie Ensure that your new pot has a layer of drainage medium covering the drainage hole at the bottom before scattering a little of your new soil on top of the drainage layer. To ensure that the soil level for the plants falls about an inch below the lip of the new container, add or remove soil as necessary. Give your plant a firm squeeze around the grower’s pot after which, while still holding the grower’s pot, carefully grip the plant’s base and wriggle it out of the pot with your other hand. It ought to simply emerge with a complete root mass and soil. Repotting considerably larger plants is typically done with the plant lying on its side. Place the plant into the prepared pot after that, and then add soil mixture to the sides. To slightly compact the earth, you should gently push it into the side. Give it some water till the bottom allows it to drain.

terrain: Regards, Julie Before you leave, one more thing. Could you quickly provide us your Top 5 Repotting Tips?

1. Ensure that planters you purchase have drainage holes on the bottom. Without a route for water to escape, you risk drowning the plant to death. 2. Ensure that you’re using indoor potting soil. Potting mixtures for indoor and outdoor plants can differ greatly. potting mixtures from large box stores with added fertilizer should be avoided! 3. It’s alright and common for your plant to momentarily experience shock following transplanting. Simply keep an eye on it and ensure that the soil dries out a little bit in between waterings. With the larger pot and extra soil, you might need to water less at first until the roots bury themselves in it. 4. I advise letting public water soak out overnight to dechlorinate for drinking and spraying if you use it from a tap. Chlorine is hated by plants, and it will certainly harm the more delicate ones, like ferns. 5. Misting your plants can be quite beneficial, especially in the dry winter months. It serves as a natural repellent for pests.

As Julie continues our series on indoor plants, be sure to come back frequently for more helpful information! Read about flower arranging with Amy Merrick, landscaping advice from Roots, and six of our favorite indoor plants in the interim. Also, don’t forget to browse our collection of houseplants!

How should indoor plants be winterized?

Your indoor plants might benefit from upkeep in the fall so they are refreshed for spring.

  • Your plants must be brought inside before the overnight low temperature falls below 45 degrees (F). At temperatures below 40 degrees, and for some tropical plants even below 50 degrees, harm will occur.
  • Before bringing plants back inside, check them for pests and diseases and apply the relevant treatments. Insects can be removed from the soil by soaking the pot in a tub of lukewarm water for about 10 minutes. Take a shower before bringing your plants inside. Spray the leaves from the undersides as well, using your garden hose’s mist or shower setting.
  • Repot plants into bigger containers if necessary, ensuring sure to go one size up.
  • For instance, 4 inches to 6 inches and 6 inches to 8 inches.
  • Use a pair of razor-sharp scissors or other handheld pruning tools to remove any dead leaves or branches.
  • Expose plants progressively to lower illumination levels before bringing indoor houseplants back inside to avoid shock. If plants are in a sunny location, transfer them into bright shade a few weeks before the move is scheduled to take place. It is extremely typical for the plant to lose a few leaves after being brought inside. Don’t freak out if this happens; it’s natural!
  • The majority of houseplants, with the exception of African Violets, won’t require fertilizing over the winter.

Wilson’s, one of the largest garden centers in central Ohio, began as a modest farm market in 1958. We have greenhouses covering more than 2 acres that are always stocked with annuals, perennials, shrubs, herbs, fruits, veggies, indoor plants, and more. Many of the plants we sell are grown right here on the premises. Additionally, for the previous ten years, we have won the Consumer’s Choice Award for Central Ohio.

What occurs if plants aren’t replanted?

You have therefore joined the trend of indoor plants. You’ve added a few to your workspace and home. Bravo and good luck to you! Literally, plants are good for you and help you stay healthy, happy, and connected to nature. Congratulations from the eco-warriors at your Good Earth Plant Company.

Only the appropriate potting soil needs to be added to your plant containers. Picture: Creative Commons License, SweetLouise

You may have had your plants for a year, 18 months, or even 24 months. Now what? When advancing to the next level of plant care knowledge, one of the most frequent queries raised by plant owners is when to repot their indoor plants.

Fantastic inquiry at the ideal moment. Repotting indoor plants that require additional space to spread their roots and thrive is best done in the spring. Your plants respond naturally to the change in season by beginning to grow when the amount of daily sunlight increases and the temperature rises.

However, if your plant grows too large for its pot and has crowded roots that lack space to spread, the result may be a stunted, stressed-out plant. If it receives insufficient nutrients or water, it may suffer and drop leaves or even perish. You don’t always have to replace your plant’s container when you repot it. Giving the plant new potting soil is the primary goal of repotting. Fresh nutrients in the soil will feed your plants. But for it to grow, your plant may require more space.

How can you be certain? Here are some indicators to watch out for:

  • The drainage hole at the bottom of the container is showing roots sprouting out of it.
  • The plant itself is being raised out of the container due to the roots, which are becoming so thick inside the container.
  • Your plant’s growth has slowed down or ceased altogether.
  • Your plant has a top weight that makes it easy to topple over.
  • Your plant need more regular watering because it dries out soon after being watered.
  • On the plants or the container, you can notice salt or mineral buildup.
  • Inside the container, the shrinking of the soil is visible.

Repotting is typically necessary every 12 to 18 months for plants. There are certain exceptions, including cacti or succulents with sluggish growth.

There are great options and something for every taste if you choose to get a new container. Be imaginative! You’ll find some fantastic ideas and trends if you read my blog article from the TPIE show earlier this year.

Avoid choosing a container that is too large! The bigger, the worse. Choose a pot that is only marginally larger than the container in which your houseplant was first placed. For a smaller plant that might be placed on a counter, aim for three inches more in both diameter and depth; for a larger plant that might be placed on the ground, aim for up to six inches.

Verify the plant has effective drainage. Make sure to reduce the watering if you’re transferring a plant whose roots require more frequent watering. Overwatering might harm a plant in a new container with a lot more dirt. You don’t want to destroy your plant in its new home by being kind to it.

You’ve decided on a hip new container, and you’re now prepared to transfer your plant. Water your plant well the day before you intend to repot it. Additionally, you might want to pre-moisten the fresh potting soil.

When transferring your plant from its original container, go slowly and gently. If the object is root bound and firmly fixed in place, patience may be required. Tap the container’s bottom while tilting the plant sideways. Tap the sides and roll the container. Start lightly at the container’s sides if you need to loosen the plant. Here, damp earth can be your ally. Do not pull the plant by the stalks. If necessary, use gravity to your advantage by turning the plant upside down, but be cautious because soil may spill out.

Examine the roots once the plant has been removed from the container. Image credit: CC/Gardening Solutions

Examine the roots once the plant has been removed from the container. Try to gently disentangle any tangled roots and give them some room if the plant has packed roots. In those gaps, you want dirt to fill it. If you need to do a little trimming, that is acceptable and even be beneficial. Avoid harming the plant’s stems or leaves by moving slowly.

The previous potting soil doesn’t have to be completely removed. Fresh potting soil should be added to the planter, leaving between one third and half empty. Purchase the proper potting soil from a nursery or garden center, please. It ought to have an indoor or outdoor use rating. Use only dirt from your garden or yard.

On top of the first layer of brand-new potting soil, place the plant. You might want to add more dirt or take some away so that your plant is seated in soil that is approximately an inch below the rim of the container. Don’t completely fill the container. You need some space so that water can slowly seep into the container.