Like tree peonies, not many plants are revered. China’s national flower, the Chinese tree peony, was previously only produced by the emperor. Tree peony petals have been referred to for generations as luminous, silky, exotic, exquisite, and spectacular. The praise is still coming in today.
Paeonia suffruiticosa, also known as tree peonies, is a kind of plant. Unlike herbaceous peony, which die back to the ground, they develop woody stalks. They live a long time but grow slowly. It’s believed that certain Chinese artifacts date back more than 200 years. Eventually, plants will reach a height of 3 to 5 feet, but it may take them decades to do so.
Tree peonies come in a broader variety of hues and have larger blossoms than herbaceous peonies. Tree peonies frequently come in shades of yellow, purple, maroon, and green, whereas herbaceous peonies seldom ever do. Both single and double flower variants of peony are typical. The appeal of tree peony is increased by the presence of fragrant blossoms or flowers with striking centers in many of their variations. Compared to herbaceous peonies, tree peonies bloom a couple of weeks earlier. In fact, if they haven’t already begun to blossom, they should do so shortly.
It’s crucial that tree peonies are sited properly because they can outlive many gardeners who plant them. Rich, moist, well-drained soils under dappled or partial shade are preferred by plants. Flowers stay longer in shaded areas, although plants bloom best in bright areas. Despite being hardy to zone 4, tree peonies still need some protection from our winter winds. The best locations are near buildings or those with eastern exposures.
Both bare-root and containerized tree peony are offered for sale. To ensure speedy root establishment in the fall and healthy growth in the spring, bare root plants should be planted in the fall rather than the spring. You can plant containerized plants in the spring or fall at any time. Don’t plant during the summer heat.
Since tree peony are frequently grafted, put the graft union 4 to 6 inches beneath the soil’s surface. The tree peony eventually grows its own roots and is independent of the grafted root structure. Make sure to place the peony in containerized plants at the same height as the containers they were in. It is advised to provide regular maintenance, including water and fertilizer, as necessary. Around plant bases, several inches of mulch should be piled in the fall.
There are tree peony cultivars or variations from both China and Japan. Both varieties are lovely. The cultivar names are similarly lovely. Who wouldn’t want to own a piece of art like Green Dragon Lying on a China Ink Stone, White Screen Reflects a Blue Jewel, or Honeydew from Heaven? Other cultivar names, such as Godaiishu, Sahohimine, or Kamata Nishiki, are more challenging to say but no less beautiful. Even the Red, Pink, and Yellow types are outstanding. When choosing a tree peony cultivar, you can’t go wrong.
The cost of specimen plants like tree peonies is high. A tree peony will cost significantly more than a herbaceous variety. Depending on the cultivar, prices often range from $30 to $300 per plant. But shouldn’t every garden and every gardener be treated with respect?
Is a peony tree grafted?
Do you have a tree peony that also blooms as a herbaceous peony, or a chimera peony, in your garden? Actually, the herbaceous peony understock, or rootstock, of the tree peony has emerged in this situation, which is not some uncommon mutation.
A “Souvenir du Maxime Cornu” tree peony that was grafted with herbaceous understock has sprouted and is in bloom in our garden. In this instance, the tree peony and the herbaceous understock are in full bloom at the same time.
Grafting is the most frequent method of producing new tree peony. In a nutshell, this is a technique for multiplying peonies in which a cutting from a tree peony is fused to the root of a herbaceous peony. In its early years of development, this serves as the tree peony’s “battery.” Last year, I described this procedure in detail.
Unhealed tree peony graft with a rubber band holding the tree peony scion to the herbaceous peony understock.
The roots of this tree peony are starting to spread on their own. The bulbous part of the root is the understock of the herbaceous plant. To ensure that the tree peony continues to spew its own roots, this plant must be planted quite deeply if it is to grow successfully.
If a tree peony is planted too shallowly, the plant is unable to establish its own roots. Both sprouted understock and general plant weakness may result from this.
It was improper to place this tree peony so close to the graft union. The tree peony won’t be able to develop its own roots in this situation. More earth should be piled around the plant in this situation.
If a tree peony has sprung herbaceous peony understock growing on it, the herbaceous peony will eventually overtake the tree peony and kill it out if the situation is not dealt to. To prevent this, the herbaceous rootstock must either be removed from the tree peony at the root in the fall or below the soil line in the spring. The plant that has to be preserved is the tree peony since it is more rare and valuable. Cutting back the herbaceous peony foliage BELOW the soil line and then piling up six inches of soil around the tree peony’s base is the simplest procedure. This can be done at any time and will prevent the herbaceous peony from sprouting again while promoting the development of the tree peony’s own roots.
Wait until the fall to plant the herbaceous peony if you really wish to save it and move it to another area of your garden. When it comes time to dig and divide peonies in a few months, I will write a follow-up piece that will show how to divide a tree peony’s herbaceous understock.
We talked about how to recognize the herbaceous peony understock emerging on a grafted tree peony a few months ago. This frequently happens when grafted tree peonies are planted too deeply. It’s time to dig up and remove undesired herbaceous understock and replant the tree peony now that the time for transplanting peonies has come. This must be done because, if not stopped, the herbaceous peony would eventually suffocate and suffocate the tree peony. You can replant this and let it grow out if you enjoy how the herbaceous understock blooms.
If you have a tree-herbaceous hybrid peony, now is the time to dig it up, remove the undesired herbaceous peony suckers, and replant the tree peony deeply enough for it to develop its own roots and survive for many more years.
The leaves of herbaceous peonies can easily be distinguished from those of tree peonies. While the leaves of herbaceous peonies are elliptical and pointed, those of tree peonies are dissected and three-pronged.
You can always look at the stems to determine whether the leaves are different. Herbaceous plants are green, while tree peonies are woody.
Digging up the peony requires first removing the leaves. In order to prevent them from spreading dangerous fungus throughout the garden, dispose of these in a hot compost pile or outside.
Digging up a huge peony cautiously is the best approach. Start by excavating around the plant’s perimeter, about 18 away from the drip line. Finally, gently pry the plant out of the ground after removing some of the soil from around its roots.
There are very few tree peony roots in this plant; most of its roots are herbaceous peony roots. The little white buds that have developed at the base of the herbaceous stems this year are the herbaceous peony’s “eyes.”
The tree peony would die or become weaker if all the herbaceous roots were removed right once because this plant has so few tree peony roots. Trim these pink or white buds to get rid of the herbaceous peony ‘eyes’ as soon as possible. The tree peony should be deeply replanted so that it can develop its own roots over the ensuing few years. Where the herbaceous peony roots first appear, or about 4 above the graft union, is where to plant the tree peony. Use this chance to add the right soil amendments for the tree peony. Shovel one or two shovelfuls of compost into the planting hole. If your soil is acidic, mix in a cup of limestone dust while you backfill. As you fill the hole, add a couple additional shovelfuls of compost and a cup of azomite to provide the plant with extra minerals.
Water the soil/compost mixture in as you back fill to help it settle nicely around the roots. If you still have some compost on hand, top dress the soil by tamping it down and adding a shovel’s worth. For their first winter in the ground, newly planted or replanted peonies should have mulch used to assist prevent the soil surrounding the roots from freezing and thawing abruptly, raising the roots above ground.
In our USDA zone 6, tree peony can be transplanted at any time between now and early November. Making sure that the roots do not dry out while they are out of the ground is crucial. Don’t forget to plant in an area that is sunny, well-drained, has rich soil, and has a pH of at least 6.5.
When may a tree peony be planted?
The majority of tree peony are hardy in zones 4–8, although some cultivars are hardy as low as zone 3. They thrive best in regions with hot summers and cold winters for dormancy. Tree peony prefer some dappled to light shade from the sweltering afternoon sun while being typically listed as full sun plants. The lovely blossoms may fade and wither more quickly if there is too much bright sunlight.
They require sufficient drainage and love slightly alkaline soil. Additionally, tree peonies favor a location free from competing tree or shrub roots. With perennial companion plants, they thrive.
Instead of in the sweltering summer, new tree peony plants should be planted in the spring or fall. At initially, they may take up to three years to become established and begin to develop and bloom. Tree peony do not transfer well and may tolerate drought once they are established. A plant can live up to 100 years if it is placed appropriately and is happy with its surroundings.
Gardening for tree peonies is not any more difficult than gardening for herbaceous peonies. However, tree peonies should never be pruned back in the fall, unlike herbaceous peonies. Tree peony should never be trimmed or shaped; only dead, unhealthy, or infected wood should be removed.
They may benefit from a yearly feeding of iron sulphate and bone meal in the spring since they have high iron and phosphate requirements. A general-purpose fertilizer like 5-10-5, which is higher in phosphorus than nitrogen and potassium, should also be applied regularly to tree peony.
The best way to water tree peony is directly at the root zone because they can be vulnerable to fungus illnesses. Borers can also harm them, so be vigilant about looking for evidence of their activity in the wood.
Do peony roots need to be soaked before planting?
Planting peony roots in the garden is simple. Just because they seem a little strange, don’t put off planting them. In general, it’s best to plant them as soon as you can after getting them (unless, of course, the ground is still frozen outside!).
Step 1: Choose A Planting Location
To plant your peony roots, decide where in the garden to do so. The leaves of peony plants benefit from 6 to 8 hours per day of direct sunshine for the maximum growth. The plants are able to provide the best display of spring blooms thanks to the generous amount of sunlight. Some afternoon shade may be advantageous for the plants in regions with very hot summers and intense afternoon sunlight. In warmer climes, afternoon shade can help blossoms stay longer and require less water (especially in Zones 7-8).
Peonies prefer soil that drains excess water effectively and require a moist environment to grow. Peonies can grow in less-than-ideal garden soil, but they typically thrive in sandy loam soil with frequent irrigation or rainwatering. In order to produce a free-draining flower bed that allows surplus water to go down to the lower elevation sections rather than ponding around the roots, peonies can be planted in clay soil or other areas that drain poorly on a raised mound-type garden bed.
Step 2: Unpack The Peony Roots
Take the peony roots out of their packaging with care. A mixture of dried peat moss or sawdust is frequently marketed with peony roots. To obtain a good look at the roots, brush the peat or sawdust off of each one.
The peony’s roots are elongated, thick, meaty tubers. Peony roots resemble brown carrots quite a bit. Older roots appear woody and thick, whereas young roots may be flexible and bend slightly. The “crown of the peony plant” is where the peony roots all congregate and come together. The knobby bump at the top is the crown. The new, tiny buds that are emerging from the “crown are the “eyes. Peony “eyes” typically have a pink or white color and have a slightly angular shape.
For planting reasons, the “eyes” of the peony root are the most crucial to locate. The “eyes” must be positioned near the top of the planting hole and at a specific elevation. Check each peony root for eyes by looking closely. Most bare root peonies with 2-3 eyes are available in garden centers and plant nurseries. See the circled peony eyes in the photo up top.
Step 3: Soak The Peony Roots
After months of chilly storage, dormant peony roots are frequently dry. To help them fill up and hydrate, soak them in clean, lukewarm water to give them a head start in establishing themselves in the soil.
To soak the peony roots in, prepare a dish of clean, lukewarm water. Peony roots that are extremely dry can be rehydrated by soaking them for up to four hours. You can soak peony roots for approximately a half-hour if they don’t appear to be overly dry. It’s not necessary to soak peony roots before planting, but it does appear to assist the dormant roots awaken from their sleep (and make watering them less worrisome in the first few weeks after planting).
Step 4: Plant The Peony Roots
For each peony root, create a broad, shallow hole. The length of the peony root should be roughly twice as wide as each hole. The peony root need not be buried much deeper than the planting hole. If you’re planting many peony roots, leave about 3 feet between each one.
The crown and eyes of the peony root should be near the top of the hole. This stage can be a little challenging because some peony roots have unusual shapes. Seek out the pink and white “eyes. The “When the peony root is planted, the eyes should be close to the top. Attempt to position the peony root such that all of the eyes (often 2-3 on one root) are parallel to one another (all at the same approximate elevation). the root of a peony “The final soil surface should be around 1 below the eyes.
Holding the peony root in one hand, backfill the hole with the removed soil. Be careful not to knock any buds or eyes off the peony root’s top, but also take care not to leave any significant air pockets. Examine the height of the eyes in relation to the surrounding dirt in the planting hole once more. Generally speaking, peony “Eyes should be positioned around one inch below the soil’s surface. Zones 2-3 allow for slightly deeper planting of peonies, but in general, flowering should not be compromised by planting the eyes deeper than 2 inches into the ground.
Step 5: Water & Mulch
After planting, thoroughly water the planting area with fresh water. More dirt can be added to top up the soil level until it is flush with the surrounding soil if the soil settles significantly inside the planting hole’s perimeter. Apply a layer of organic mulch after watering to help preserve moisture in the soil and deter weed growth.
Here is a video demonstrating just how to sow bare-root peony roots in the garden: