I gathered the following materials to create this arrangement and demonstrate how to grow cactus and succulents together:
- pot with effective drainage
- lush, quick-draining soil
- Tape for drywall mesh
- Scissors (I use these for all gardening tasks and really adore them!)
- Tweezers (from my favorite set of succulent tools)
- bamboo chopsticks
- Newspaper
- supple-bristled brush (from my favorite set of succulent tools)
- Suculent vegetation
- Cacti
The container I chose is fantastic, and you can see it better down below. The pot’s adorable, pudgy feet are the same shade of brown as the bottom, which is a wood-brown with erratic striations. The pot is mostly covered in a stunning blue glaze with green undertones and a lovely leaf design. My decision to use succulents and cacti was influenced by the pot’s hues and leaf texture, as I’ll explain below.
OK
Let’s examine how to plant cactus and succulents together now that we’re ready to get started!
Choosing a Cacti and Succulents Pot
The handmade ceramic pots from Donna Davis Taylor’s Succulent-Pottery are truly gorgeous. Each handmade item is unique and full of charm and personality. I’ve only ever bought one thing, and I can’t wait to buy more. It’s an odd position from which to view her container, but just look at those gorgeous drainage holes! She incorporates numerous ample drainage holes because each of her sculptures is specifically made to support succulents. I seal the holes with drywall mesh tape. It’s incredibly useful since it keeps my succulent soil in the pot while yet allowing water to pass through.
Whether you purchase your succulent pottery from Donna or somewhere else, make sure to choose it carefully for the sake of your plants’ wellbeing.
Planting Cacti and Succulents
The cacti and succulents can be added to the container in any sequence, however there is a strategy that I’ll explain below. I started with an Echeveria colorata, my largest plant, to create my design. Don’t you just love those red points? The roots and dirt stay united in the shape of the nursery pot when you remove the succulent from it. You won’t be able to fit as many plants in the pot if you leave the root ball in place because it takes up so much space.
Just as there is no reason to place as many plants in the container as I shall do here, there is nothing wrong with leaving the soil and roots in tact. It is okay to leave the soil and root ball together as long as the plant is not rootbound, which is defined as having several roots developing in a circular pattern. It is just a matter of taste. I removed the extra soil and massaged the roots because I really appreciate the overstuffed appearance I am about to show you.
Remove excess soil from the roots of succulents and cacti before planting them closely, and massage the roots to help them become looser from the soil. The roots are now ready to spread out and thrive in the new dirt in the container.
I positioned this substantial Echeveria extremely towards the front corner of my pot and tilted it so that it overhung the pot’s lip. This was only done to make my desired design work; it wasn’t necessary for the plant’s health. And planting the plant in this manner does not in any way harm it. I choose this Echeveria colorata since the pot’s azure glaze complemented its pale blue color. Observe how the Echeveria’s leaves closely resemble the texture of leaves.
Dividing Succulents Prior to Planting
I adore Kalanchoe tomentosa ‘Teddy Bear’s soft, hairy brown leaves, and I believe they are the ideal way to complement the brown hue of my new pot. The pot I selected had three plants growing together, so when I removed the extra soil and massaged the roots, they were simple for me to separate. They kind of curled around the enormous Echeveria that I placed them behind.
So that we can see how to plant cacti and succulents together, it’s time to add my primary cactus.
Removing the Cactus from the Pot
To complement the dark brown hue of the pot’s foundation, I chose this Mammillaria elongata variety called “Copper King.” The plant itself is a gorgeous shade of olive green, and all over it are several starbursts of spines that are intricately arranged in coppery brown. The spines of this plant appear to glow when the sun is behind it. Gorgeous!
I’ll be writing a piece soon that is entirely about handling cacti without getting stabbed. Let me present you to one of the things I use to handle and plant cactia newspaper for the time being. Take a lengthwise piece of newspaper and fold it repeatedly.
You can now pick up the cactus, take it out of its pot, and set it down anywhere you like by folding the newspaper length in half. For a larger or heavier plant, use extra paper as necessary.
The plant is well-cushioned by the paper, which protects it from damage when you handle it. What matters most is that the paper prevents you from becoming trapped by their spines! Here is the key to successfully planting succulents and cacti together.
How to Plant Cacti and Succulents Together
The roots of the succulents should be completely buried in the soil when planting cacti and succulents together. But only the lower third of the cactus’ roots should be buried when planting it. Keep the cactus’ upper two-thirds of its roots above the soil line.
The cactus roots above the soil line will be covered with soil, and other plants will be used to hide them from view. However, the plant will absorb far less of the soil’s moisture because the upper 2/3 of the roots are above the soil line. I intentionally overexposed the root zone in the image above in an effort to make it more visible. The roots above the soil line are indicated by the yellow line.
I realize this seems like a crazy notion, and you’re worried about hurting your cactus. I swear by this, it works! See my article on revitalizing a dish garden of succulents and cacti. You can see how the crested cactus I used, which I planted with succulents, developed and flourished over the course of a full year, with the top 2/3 of its root ball above the soil line!
So, with the top 2/3 of the roots visible above the soil level, I placed the Mammillaria elongata ‘Copper King’ in the back right corner of my pot. In a manner similar to how I planted the Echeveria, I positioned it at a slight slant away from the middle of the pot.
Planting Around a Cactus
With an Anacampseros ‘Sunrise,’ I was able to add a splash of color. I really like how the vibrant pink reflects off the E. colorata’s brilliant red tips. And I also wanted to add some “thimble cactus,” or Mamillaria gracilis fragilis, which is a beautiful, white plant. I once more utilized a folded sheet of newspaper to make it possible to safely plant in and around the thorny cactus. As I inserted the Anacampseros, I wrapped it around the “Copper King” cactus that had been planted. This prevented harm to both the cactus and me. I planned to divide the Anacampseros pot and plant it in two locations because I thought there would be two or three plants within. But it is just one, big, vibrant plant. I positioned it to overflow the pot’s rim. Isn’t the color amazing?
The lovely small thimble cactus plants followed. Again, the plant itself is an olive green, but it is covered in numerous starburst-shaped bristles that are small, semi-soft, and pure white. It creates countless round offsets. The young succulents that grow at the base and resemble a cluster of white bubbles are known as succulent offsets. It’s a fantastic addition to a succulent and cactus arrangement, adding dazzling white color and texture.
Each of the tiny plants in these thimble cactus pots made them simple to divide. Learn more about cactus division. I separated the cacti, arranged and planted them, removing the extra soil as I went, holding the base of the plant in place with the tweezers from my toolkit.
Cover Cactus Roots with Extra Soil
The cheerful little thimble cactus was something I kept adding. The white gives the arrangement great accents and gives the impression of sparkling. I added soil precisely where I needed it to cover the cactus roots that I had left exposed above the soil line using the scoop that was included in my tool set. The cactus itself conceals the roots from view, and the earth shields them from harm.
Once I had most of my plants set into place, I decided my large Echeveria colorata was too large for the scale of the pot and the cactus and succulent arrangement. So, in order to make it a little bit smaller, I cut off a few of the lower leaves. Naturally, I saved those leaves to spread more Echeveria!
Then I put a small division from a Cotyledon pendens behind my Echeveria to act as a trailing plant.
Cacti and Succulent Arrangement (Nearly) Finished
At this time, I believed my cactus and succulent arrangement was complete. I had adhered to the design guidelines and components Cindy Davison of The Succulent Perch teaches in our Facebook group for succulent arrangements. I got started by drawing inspiration from the stunning Donna Davis Taylor pot. I used the pot’s colors again in my composition, paying close attention to scale and balance. I showed Cindy since I am so happy with it.
Cindy provided a very reassuring assessment and was really encouraging. She has incredible design talent! She urged me to make a few minor adjustments. I’m curious whether you can locate them because I did.
Caring for Cactus and Succulent Arrangement
The finished cactus and succulent arrangement is shown here. My package of succulent tools included a squeeze water bottle with a long, slender neck, and it is quite useful! It flawlessly enables me to water a very dense arrangement like this and directs the water where I need it. I anticipate that the entire setup will thrive in direct, bright sunlight.
I chose Cotyledon pendens as the trailing plant, going from left to right. The Echeveria colorata is in the front, with the Kalanchoe tomentosa “Teddy Bear” poking out from behind it. The arrangement features white Mammillaria gracilis fragilis, sometimes known as the “Thimble Cactus.” The vibrant pink, yellow, and green Anacampseros “Sunrise” ups the ante, in my opinion. Then, at the back right, the Mammillaria elongata “Copper King” provides height and drama.
Cindy had advised me to slightly further tuck the trailing Cotyledon in to keep the entire arrangement balanced. She also recommended that I emphasize the Kalanchoe a little bit more. She also advised me to tuck the tiny cactus into the Anacampseros’ curve rather than place it straight next to the “Copper King,” where the textures were similar. I am overjoyed with the outcomes!
In our Facebook group, you can find out everything about designing AND caring for succulents. We would adore for you to join us!
Design a Cactus and Succulent Arrangement from All Angles
My succulent and cactus arrangement has a distinct front, but I still wanted to make sure it looks excellent from all sides. As you plant, keep turning the pot so that you can fill up any gaps. When Cindy plants, she uses a lazy Susan, and I’m thinking I should do the same. As you can see, the ‘Teddy Bear’ variety of Kalanchoe tomentosa has shorter, rounder leaves than the more prevalent ‘Chocolate Soldier’ kind.
Isn’t Donna Davis Taylor’s handcrafted ceramic pot amazing? I adore her art so much! The pot is wrapped with the edge exposed, and the tiny feet are just too adorable. very clever Additionally, there is a cute button next to the Anacampseros. I ought to have given it some thought and kept that from being covered. I suppose I’ll need another of her pots for a redo.
Visit Donna’s company page on Facebook to see more of her work. Every few weeks, she introduces new pots, and they sell out quickly! You can find more of her stunning work on Instagram as well. Invest in a tiny business while growing your hobbies. Win-win situation!
Succulents can be planted in either sand or soil.
It’s crucial to add sand to your potting soil since succulents thrive in permeable sandy potting soil.
You may use any kind of sand, but I suggest going with coarse rather than super fine sand to ensure quick drainage for succulents.
Just avoid using sand from the beach, the garden, or the sandbox (you never know what nasties will be in there).
Turface or poultry grit could be used in place of it if you’d prefer. Both of those would work well in place of the sand in this recipe.
Perlite or Pumice
A extremely light organic soil supplement is perlite. You can find the white, Styrofoam-like bits in many commercial potting mixtures.
Perlite has a very low water retention capacity, avoids soil compaction, and aids in improving drainage for succulent plants. In other words, it facilitates faster soil drainage, which is ideal for succulent potting soil.
Perlite and pumice are typically available at any garden shop or home improvement store. But occasionally it’s difficult to find, so I typically order it online.
Can I grow cacti in normal potting soil?
Yes, you can give your cactus plants either standard potting soil or African violet dirt. However, once more, avoid using these on their own as they contain an excessive amount of organic matter that retains moisture and can contain fertilizer additives that are not designed for slow-growing cacti. Instead, incorporate them as one component of your homemade cactus potting soil.
How do you care for cacti?
Contrary to most movie sequences, cactus flourishing on pure sand is not a positive thing. A rocky, nutrient-rich soil kept in a well-draining pot or container is what desert cactus, also known as Opuntia cactus or hairy old man cactus, prefer. Ascertain that nutrients such peat moss, coconut coir, pumice, perlite, or vermiculite enable a suitable balance of the soil’s aeration and drainage qualities.
Avoid using forest goods like wood chips and pieces of pine bark and instead start with a base of regular potting soil. Pumice, a light-weight and porous volcanic rock, should be added in two parts. In the absence of those materials, you can use vermiculite, perlite, NAPA oil dry number 8822, aquatic plant soil, non-soluble cat litter, or chicken grit. This component is essential because it provides adequate aeration and allows water to move through your potting mix fast.
Add some coconut coir lastly. This breaks down gradually, adding structure and aiding in the cactus mix’s ability to retain moisture. In contrast to peat, it is also wettable and does not compact during the wetting process.
Cacti Soil For Jungle Cactus
Both lithophytic and epiphytic cacti are fairly universal in the jungle. In other words, they can grow on rocks or rely on the nearby trees to live.
Such cactus species
The orchid cactus has the unusual capacity to obtain its daily requirements from the air as well as from dead leaves or other detritus left in crevasses and fissures.
Therefore, you’ll require a potting mixture containing oak leaf mold, pumice, coconut coir, peat moss, bat guano, and some orchid bark or fir bark to replicate the jungle cactus’ natural growing environment.
Epiphytic cactus require potting soil that resembles that used for desert cacti. After that, you’ll need to make some adjustments.
- Pumice, 1 part, to lessen soil compaction
- coarse orchid bark in two pieces
Compared to simply adding extra ordinary potting soil to the mix, this provides better aeration properties. But with time, the bark degrades and eventually turns into soil, indicating that it is time for repotting.
These are merely a few good cactus potting soil examples that you can use. Of course, the ideal mixture will vary depending on the sort of cactus you want to cultivate, and you’ll also need to prepare the other two key growth settings, namely water and light.
Making your own cactus soil mix is fun in part because you can experiment to see what works best for your favorite succulent and cactus plants.