Each plant should be wrapped in several layers of soft paper, such as tissue paper. Use several layers of a stiffer paper, like newspaper, for cacti to help prevent the spines from poking through.
Succulents can be sent via mail.
Since they can survive for extended periods of time without water and are typically extremely hardy, succulents and cacti are excellent mail-order plants. Professional nurseries routinely and without many issues export their plants across the nation and beyond the world.
Sending succulents and cacti over the mail is a secure and simple way to move your plants from one place to another, whether you’re moving and need to deliver your collection to your new home or you want to share your love of succulents with a distant friend.
Can succulents withstand shipping?
Succulents are hardy plants, so if you properly package them, they can withstand shipment for a week or two. To avoid any damage, it would be good if you could attempt to make sure that the succulent is delivered within a week.
In order to accomplish this, try shipping the succulent on a Monday or a Tuesday so that it can arrive on time without getting stuck in transit over the weekend.
If your succulent is properly covered and the weather is right, it is completely feasible that it could even last longer. However, there is no way to be certain about this.
How are succulents shipped with soil?
If there are any prickly succulents, it is best to pack them in several layers of paper to prevent the spikes from harming other plants.
It is not a good idea to wrap the top of the succulent with plastic as this could trap moisture inside the pack and cause the succulent to decay.
The best materials for this are tissue paper or newspapers. Wrap every succulent in its own piece of paper.
If the plant is in a container, make sure the soil is tightly covered with plastic to prevent dirt spillage.
If we want to keep some moisture in bare root succulents, we can keep some peat or moss.
Is it acceptable to mail plants?
To begin with, you must ascertain whether you can actually send your plant. You cannot send a plant that is listed as endangered or protected! The Baja rose, the Santa Inez goldenbanner, and the Yreka phlox are a few instances of endangered plants.
You can find out if your plant is endangered or protected by searching for it in this United States Department of Agriculture database.
The Parcel Needs to Identify that Live Plants and Vegetation Are Inside
One of the most crucial things you must do after determining whether your plant can be transported is to indicate that the package contains a plant. The Terminal Inspection Act of 1916 mandates that all packages containing plants be properly labelled, according to USPS. Fortunately, you don’t always have to purchase specialized stickers, as is the case when transporting ORM-D goods. Simply mark your box with a marker to indicate that it includes plants. Simple enough!
Properly Preparing Your Plants for Shipment
In order to ensure that live plants and other vegetation travel safely, adequate packaging is essential. To keep moisture in the plant’s roots, USPS always needs waterproof material, like waxed Kraft paper. Additionally, this will prevent transit-related leaks in your package. Every plant, however, has a unique requirement, therefore you must wrap each one individually. For instance, you must use puncture-proof paper to cover spiky plants like cacti.
Here are some easy measures to take as a basic checklist while exporting plants:
- a few sheets of packing paper or newspaper should be lightly dampened.
- Place the plant with the roots and stem in the center after folding the papers in half (if your plant has foliage, make sure you place the foliage outside the edge of the paper)
- Gently wrap the roots with the paper.
- To keep moisture from getting into the roots, wrap the bottom of the plants in waterproof waxed Kraft paper. Don’t seal the paper, though, as your plants require oxygen to survive.
- To safeguard the plant and stop moisture damage to your box, wrap the entire plant in at least two substantial plastic supermarket bags.
- Put the plant into a fresh corrugated cardboard box, being careful to select one that not only fits it best but also doesn’t overly restrict it.
- We advise sending a letter inside the package describing the plant’s species and how to take care of it (paper will become wet from the moisture of the plant, so laminating the note is always a good idea).
- Indicate that there are plants within the packaging.
- Send it off as soon as you can!
Which USPS Mail Class Should I Use?
The USPS postal class you select will be based on the weight of your plant and how quickly you need it to arrive. In general, First Class Package will be the preferred method of shipping plants because many of them weigh less than 16 ounces. The plant will arrive with this service in an anticipated 1-3 business days and will be the least expensive choice. Priority Mail will typically be your best option if your shipment weighs more than 16 ounces (sometimes this is the case if you end up including soil).
While some plants, like succulents and desert vegetation, don’t require a lot of water to grow, other plants don’t function in the same way. As a result, there are times when you’ll want your plant to arrive at its location as soon as feasible. The ideal service in this situation will be Priority Mail Express. Although Priority Mail Express will set you back quite a little more money, the Postal Service promises same-day delivery (2 days if the parcel is going to a rural area).
Pro Tip: The least expensive shipping option will be chosen for you when you utilize shipping software to purchase postage online! Just be careful to input the total weight and dimensions of your package accurately to avoid being charged extra postage by the USPS Automated Package Verification system.
You May Not Be Eligible for Insurance
One issue to keep in mind is that you might not be able to acquire shipping insurance through your carrier or your shipping software provider if you’re sending plants. All carriers and insurance firms classify plants as “perishables,” and as a result, they won’t cover them under their policies.
Pay Attention to Individual State Guidelines
Keep in mind that some states have limitations on the importation of specific plant species. For instance, you cannot send citrus plants from any other state in the union to California. Additionally, you cannot send the Mauna Loa plant or fresh jade vine blooms from Hawaii to the continental United States or Alaska. As a result, we advise conducting preliminary study. All it takes is a fast Google search for your plant and the state you’re sending to!
Most Countries Also Have Restrictions for Importing Plants
This is where things become a little trickier if you intend to ship a plant over foreign borders. Some nations place limitations on the kind of plants that can be imported. For instance, any plant entering the United Kingdom needs to have an import authorization. Therefore, before you buy any postage, you should research the specific country’s regulations that you wish to export your plant to. On the USPS website, you may get a list of the various nations and the import limitations that apply to them.
What should you do with shipping succulents?
See the unboxing video below from Blondie Brand to get a better idea of what the packages would look like when you receive them.
Despite being carefully packaged, the plants might still be unhappy after spending a long time in a dark box. As a result, some could appear a little lifeless and wilted. So, as soon as you receive the shipment, open it right away. Remove the packaging materials with care and tenderness. Don’t immediately expose the plants to sunlight. Since these succulents were developed in a greenhouse, they must gradually adjust to sunshine. Keep them in shade or indirect sunlight, and slowly introduce them to direct sunlight. Give the plants a few days to recover, then start watering and repotting if necessary. If the plants are sent bare root, pot them right away in a mixture of succulent and cactus soil, then proceed as directed above. After receiving a good soak from watering, the plants ought to wake up. For more advice on watering, read on.
How should bare root plants be adjusted after shipping?
If you’ve never received bare-root plants, you can read some of the fundamentals below. Skip to the genus-specific section if you are comfortable with bare-root plants in general but are interested in how to care for a specific species.
General rules
Almost 100 percent humidity is used to cultivate every one of my plants. You must gradually harden them off if they are intended to be houseplants and are acceptable for that purpose. This can be accomplished by either potting the plant and covering the pot with a bag until it sprouts new roots, or by placing it in a largely sealed bin and gradually increasing ventilation until you reach ambient humidity. When that occurs, you can gradually remove it by opening it up. A good time frame for this procedure is two weeks.
-It’s ideal to unpack your plants one at a time so they don’t sit outside for an extended period of time. Many species will immediately wilt (sometimes as quickly as ten minutes).
-Any plant that is not well-rooted should not be mounted without enough moss to keep the roots moist or in direct sunlight.
-If unsure, plant in sphagnum in a sealed container with medium light and temperatures in the mid-seventies. Keep the humidity level close to 100%. Most plants can use this.
A majority of plants detest coco fiber! I suggest never utilizing it. More information on the underlying research can be found here.
The majority of plants benefit from some sort of drainage layer. Perlite, turface, gravel, etc. can be used for this, or you can create a higher substrate layer.
Genus specific
Alsobia can be cultivated indoors in well-drained soil with plenty of perlite in medium light, although it dislikes prolonged periods of drying out. Unless you want to grow each plantlet in a hanging basket, bury the roots of each individual plantlet.
Sphagum anthurium puris works well. Most thrive when attached on treefern or cork. When you first pot it or mount it, attempt to cover the majority of the roots because after it acclimates, it will put out roots that are not covered in substrate. They enjoy plenty of light.
Pure sphagnum for aridisia works well. They appear to be tolerant of low light, but they also function effectively in medium to high light. I haven’t used these in soil too often.
They grow best mounted, but an asplenium-sphagnum-and-perlite mixture is suitable for potting. All of the species listed here require high humidity, and if you are mounting, be careful to completely cover the rhizome with moss. Many Asplenium appear to thrive under dimmer lighting. In taller tanks, I like to place them on vertical branches near the bottom.
If you fertilize frequently, begonia-sphagnum works effectively for the majority of species. The most effective, however, is a combination of different mediums, such as pro mix type peat medium, turface, lime, and perlite. Begonias do not like having damp feet, thus it is crucial to allow them to partially (but not fully) dry out in between waterings. There are several kinds that thrive as indoor plants; for further information on which ones are best, please visit the pages for each species. Although they prefer shade, begonias can thrive in standard terrarium settings with medium light. Avoid burying the rhizome if your species is rhizomatous. It needs to be laid on top of the potting media and given room to breathe.
Sphagnum moss or potting soil are good for biophytum. It is not required to be very properly drained. There should be no chance for them to dry out. They can be planted close to a stream. The optimum growing medium for this genus is probably clay because it most nearly resembles their natural environment. When touched, under stress, or at night, these plants will close up. Your plant will be closed up when you get it. There is no cause for concern here. Within a couple of days, it ought to open. Reconsider your growing conditions if it hasn’t opened up after five days.
Sphag and perlite mixture, or sphag and bulbophyllum. somewhat light Regular fertilization and good drainage. Don’t bury the stem; rather, cover the majority of the roots. It is possible to see some of the roots. It’s ideal to mount them if you can.
Burmiestera- I cultivate in medium light, well-drained potting soil. Since I am not very effective with this group, I advise you not to listen to me and to try things on your own instead.
Well-drained potting soil in medium light for codonanthe. It is best to let them dry out in between waterings.
Well-drained potting soil in medium light for columnea. Most plants should be left to dry out between waterings because they are generally surprisingly tolerant of drying out.
To take root, costus needs a very thick substrate layer. 4 inches minimum, ideally more. They tend to prefer potting soil less than sphagnum or clay. They should not be let to dry out until they have a strong root system because they are fairly tolerant of wet circumstances (at least if kept in clay). Although they grow quickly once they are grown, acclimatization may take months.
Most content when mounted, especially on treefern, is the davallia. Placed in indirect light performs best. Don’t let the rhizome dry out by tying it to a mount.
Diastema: well-drained potting soil in a semi-shady area. They can rapidly become wilty, but don’t worry—once they adjust, they make up for it with vigor. Simply remove the wilting leaves from your plant if it ever starts to dry out, then put the stem in a moist potting mix. You’ll have a very full plant in two months.
Sphagnum or mounted dinema both work well and are tough. It is pretty hard to kill, but it will let you know if something needs to be adjusted gradually and with lots of notice.
Dischidia grow best when mounted or in well-drained potting soil (orchid bark also works). If mounting it, place the stem directly on the moss or cover the roots with it, and tie it securely. It is pretty hard to kill, but it will let you know if something needs to be adjusted gradually and with lots of notice.
Well-drained potting soil in medium light, Episcia They can rapidly become wilty, but don’t worry—once they adjust, they make up for it with vigor. Simply remove the wilting leaves from your plant if it ever starts to dry out, then put the stem in a moist potting mix. You’ll have a very full plant in two months.
Sphagnum or clay appear to be preferred by ficus to potting mixes, though a very well-drained, low-nutrient potting mix can still work. Till the plant is established, avoid letting it dry out. If you want it to cover a background instead of growing epiphytically, bury the roots in the soil and prop it up against a wall.
Geogenanthus can be grown in sphagnum or peat mixture, however it seems to prefer clay as a substrate. is slow to start, but it really takes off after around six months. If the stem is unrooted, insert it about two inches into the potting soil.
Well-drained potting soil in mild light for gesneriads. Many can dry out rather quickly, but they typically recover just as quickly.
Gomesa is happier growing mounted with 90% of the plant allowed to hang over into open air or touch the wet glass since it prefers greater humidity and wetness than many orchids. Both treefern and cork are suitable.
Hoyas are typically quite hardy when grown in mounted or well-drained potting soil (orchid bark also helps). If mounting it, place the stem directly on the moss or cover the roots with it, and tie it securely. It is pretty hard to kill, but it will let you know if something needs to be adjusted gradually and with lots of notice.
Lemmaphyllum do best mounted, however a sphagnum and perlite mixture is fine for potting. All of the species listed here require high humidity, and if you are mounting, be careful to completely cover the rhizome with moss.
Marcgravia should be planted in unclean sphag or another well-drained mixture and let to somewhat dry out between waterings. Instead of mounting halfway and running the risk of drying out the plant, it is best to mount on the floor of a vivarium and allow the plant to grow up.
Microgramma do best mounted, however a sphagnum and perlite mixture is suitable for potting. If you are mounting, make sure to completely cover the rhizome with moss because high humidity is crucial.
Mikania: Clay substrate performs best, although potting soil with good drainage also does well. dislikes to become too dry in between waterings.
Well-drained potting soil in mild light for peperomia. I used to keep Peperomia always moist, but I’ve discovered that most of them benefit from a little dry spell in between waterings to prevent decay. Can be utilized as an epiphyte, but be sure to cover the roots and keep them uniformly moist until new roots have sprouted.
Philodendrons are hardy and may grow in bright light. If they are planted in medium to low light, they will often have better color but develop more slowly.
Well-drained potting soil in mild light, Pilea Prone to decaying, so it’s recommended to water roots instead of leaves as little as possible.
Pothos—true pothos—does significantly better when allowed to climb up a wooden surface. Species like barberianus and kingii are available on the webstore. Put the roots in sphag or potting soil and provide medium light.
If potted, rhodospatha needs a well-drained potting soil with mild light. However, they do far better when permitted to climb up a wooden surface. Put the roots in sphag or potting soil and provide medium light.
Potting soil for selaginella in a medium-light environment. can be successfully grown on wood or sphagnum.
Well-drained solanum potting soil in medium light Can also be grown on spagnum, although regular fertilization is required.
Sphagnum alone or combined with perlite in sonerila. dislikes planting soil. In between waterings, do not let the soil dry out. Lack of water will cause it to soon wilt. Plants can start off in lower light and then grow to higher light levels.
The ideal media for tricularia are pure sphagnum or sphagnum with perlite. They appear to be able to grow in practically any lighting situation. Must always be kept moist. When cultivated in high humidity, you may just about “throw” the plants onto the medium; they will figure things out on their own. The roots can also be loosely covered with moss. This genus contains many species that can be grown as windowsill plants. If so, it is recommended to pot the plant with the roots completely covered. Place the pot in a shallow water dish.