According to Langton and Ray, “Your indoor plants will inevitably progressively gather up dust on their surface, which can hinder their growth.” With a moist towel, carefully wipe the leaves and spines (use a soft paintbrush to get at hard-to-reach spots).
What is farina?
A waxy layer known as epicuticular wax, sometimes known as farina, produces a white or silvery-blue film on the leaves of succulent plants. All kinds of plants have it on their stems, leaves, and fruit, but succulents like Echeveria, Pachyphytum, Sedeveria, Kalanchoe, and Graptoveria, to mention a few, have it the most frequently. Remember that not all members of the genus examples featured here have powdery farina.
You undoubtedly noticed a small mark if you’ve ever unintentionally brushed against your succulent’s powdery leaves. In reality, what you’re doing is eliminating the bloom, which, depending on the species, may be permanent. If it regenerates, it doesn’t go back to its previous level.
Epicuticular wax, named as such because it develops above the cuticle on the epidermis, is actually a small number of microscopic crystals that develop on the cuticle of a plant’s surface and aid in the plant’s ability to repel water. It’s also sometimes referred to as “farina,” which is what I’ve always named it. This is referred to as being “glaucous” on succulents, which is simply defined by Webster as “having a powdered or waxy coating that provides a frosted look and tends to rub off.”
Does removing the epicuticular wax harm your plants?
It serves as a hydrophobic covering that helps shield the plant from the sun, water, infections, and insects, therefore you should avoid removing it. Simply put, hydrophobic means that it repels water.
Avoid using pesticides (which you ought to attempt to do anyway!). Fungicides and plant-based oils, such as neem, can eliminate all of the farina from a mixture. Consider systematically treating plants that have both pests and farina as a soil drench. For mealy bugs, I’ve also successfully misted leaves covered in farina with a mixture of 50 percent rubbing alcohol and water. To prevent burn, always try the product first and let it completely dry in the shade.
Use a very soft makeup brush or blow it away to remove soil from your plant’s leaves. Avoid using your fingers since they may spoil the powdered effect due to skin oils.
Farina helps keep the leaves clean, which is one aspect of it that I especially like on succulents. Dirt, microorganisms, and other particles are caught in the water’s surface beads, which roll them away. The Lotus Effect is the name for this. Last but not least, the waxy covering helps keep water inside the plant, allowing succulent leaves to stay lovely and plump.
Farina-based succulents come with an all-natural sunscreen, raincoat, antibiotic, and bug spray built straight in!
Every portion of the plant, including the stem, leaves, and even the flowers, develops farina. The quantity can change based on the species, as well as within a single species, depending on the region of growth (both in cultivation and in the wild). Unlike soft, fuzzy succulents that can’t be removed with a wipe, farina can.
A healthy plant has an even covering of epicuticular wax. If you observe a mottled appearance, it can be caused by a sickness or by high humidity. This is why it’s crucial to routinely inspect your plants (I have no idea why I’m even bringing this up because I already know you spend hours staring at your plants, OR IS THAT JUST ME? Don’t respond to it.
I can still clearly recall my first time using farina. It was really thick near the base of a flapjacks paddle plant, and I simply knew it was some kind of mold or disease. Can you see why I was concerned? It was so heavy that it was coming off in pieces. It turned out to be epicuticular wax exclusively.
So how do you tell the difference between farina and powdery mildew?
Well, farina is more evenly distributed across the surface of the plant, whereas powdery mildew begins splotchy and steadily develops since it is brought on by fungal spores. Your plant will also start to become sick from powdery mildew, which will result in leaf deformation and aesthetic harm. Another reason to keep an eye on your plants’ health is because of this. You want to stop things like this before they spread to other people.
It’s almost hard for plants to arrive in the mail without having some of the farina washed away. It is displayed below in the Echeveria Lauii. Waiting for it to grow out is the only option (this one did, and it looks wonderful now!). When this occurs, there is absolutely no reason to be alarmed, and the sender is not at fault. It’s merely a step in the procedure. THERE WILL BE GROWTH!
Another specimen of an Echeveria pollux is seen below. This one started out without farina on nearly all of its leaves, but it has since grown out. They gradually climbed to the bottom as time went on and fresh leaves sprouted from the middle. As the plant matures, the first leaves will eventually wither and die (which is totally normal).
While investigating farina on succulents, I came across some information about Giant Chalk Dudleya (D. brittonii) that grows in fissures on steep volcanic rocks that I thought was intriguing. (Unfortunately, I don’t have a picture of one, but you can still admire this crest.) Depending on where they grow, there are two types: one has a thick, glaucous coating, while the other does not. The UV reflectance of the Brittonia that does have farina is astounding, at 83 percent, more than that of any other plant species. (Wait, what?) However, the same species’ non-glaucous variants only provided 10% reflectance!
If you have a succulent that has had its powdery farina removed (perhaps because you accidentally cleaned the entire plant with horticultural oil like I did), it may be best to keep it shaded from the sun until it is acclimated again. This is because powdery farina is not only attractive, but it is crucial to plant health. Keep in mind that farina on succulents doesn’t return to how it was before, so be careful not to rub it off!
You’ve probably seen plants regrow their farina. If so, tell us in the comments section below!
Should I trim the succulent’s brown leaves?
One of the most enjoyable aspects of growing succulents, in our opinion, is getting to remove all the dried leaves from the area around your plant’s base. Most individuals find it to be quite calming and enjoyable since it is so enjoyable and genuinely healing.
Aside from that interesting fact, you should remove any dried leaves and blossoms for the sake of your plant’s health. You can maintain the happiness and health of your plants by carrying out this easy chore.
New growth, New plants, New Blooms
Energy can be recycled back into the plant by removing any spent, dried-up bloom stalks and dry leaves from your succulents. Your plant will be able to produce new growth, blooms, and occasionally new rosettes or pups if you do this. And who doesn’t desire succulents that are bigger and more numerous?
To remove, gently lift the plant’s healthy leaves, and then pull any dried-out leaves from beneath. They ought to be rather simple to remove. If they don’t, you can either leave them to dry out more or, if they are past their prime and unsightly, try to snap them off completely.
Good Air Flow
Humidity, wetness, and/or succulents make for a dangerous and occasionally lethal mix. You may provide your plants sufficient air circulation and make it easier for the soil to dry out by removing these dried leaves from beneath your plants. Removing these dried leaves will assist avoid the growth of rot, mildew, and/or illnesses, especially in humid or very rainy weather. Additionally, air circulation around the plant’s base is made possible by this procedure.
Less Pests
Succulents are susceptible to a wide range of pest attacks, just like most other plants. Getting rid of the dead leaves beneath your plant can also help deter pests. Little insects adore wet areas where they may hide and reproduce. A succulent’s compressed lower leaves are likely to retain moisture around the plant’s base, which will attract pests. Your plant has a higher chance of repelling these pests if you remove these leaves.
Another alluring nesting habitat for bugs, specifically aphids, can be bloom stalks. If you see that your blooms are starting to develop this bug problem, you can either completely remove the bloom stalk or treat the bloom with a mix of diluted rubbing alcohol and water. These bugs frequently spread disease to surrounding plants and flowers if the situation is left untreated. In order to remove bloom stalks from your plant, either gently wriggle the stalk back and forth or, if it hasn’t dried up yet, snap or cut it low.
Do we have any ASMR fans out there??
We made this little movie to demonstrate how to take these leaves off your plants, but since we adore succulents, it also serves as our take on ASMR. Am I correct?
(According to The Urban Dictionary, ASMR’s sole function is to help people unwind. The goal of ASMR videos is to relax the viewer by sending a tingling sensation down their spine or back.
Vinegar and Water
Mixing water and vinegar, then using a soft cloth to remove the spots, is the best method for removing water stains off plant leaves.
To prevent harming the leaves and soil, a mixture of half a gallon of water and half a teaspoon of vinegar works best. Avoid using cold water at all costs. They could leave water stains on your leaf’s surfaces.
Depending on the size of the leaves, use a cotton swab, cotton pad, clean paper towel, soft cloth, or a moist cloth to scrub.
This technique works because the acidity of the vinegar dissolves the minerals in hard water, therefore using vinegar and moderate scrubbing results in leaves that are no longer spotty.
I would have saved a ton of time and money if I had known in the past that I could have cleaned plant leaves with vinegar.
Lemon Juice and Water
This approach functions similarly to the vinegar and water combo. One teaspoon of lemon juice should be added to one quart of water, and the spots should be scrubbed gently. Lemon juice is acidic, just like vinegar, so it dissolves the mineral stains in hard water.
You might need to alter the amount of water you use because lemon juice has a slightly lower acidity than vinegar.
Soap and Water
You will need soap and water for this procedure. The best soap to use is a mild one, such as Dr. Bronner’s Soap or a commercial fruit and vegetable wash. Dish soap and strong hand soap should be avoided because they contain detergents that could harm your plant.
Scrub the same way as the methods above using a half teaspoon of soap and a gallon of water. The quantity of soap or water may also need to be adjusted.
The mixture may also be placed in a spray bottle. Every other month, I like to do this before giving them a bath. I’ll combine the ingredients, spray the mixture all over my plants, and then either hose them down outside or give them a bath. I’ll put them back where they belong after they have dried. With this technique, I can rest easy knowing that my plants are healthy and that pests will also be eliminated.
Distilled Water
To remove water stains, simply use distilled water. As with the methods above, you’ll need a soft cloth, cotton swab, or pad.
Use lukewarm or tepid water for optimal results. At all times, stay away from utilizing hot or cold water at extreme temperatures. You don’t want to shock the root system of your plant.
Note: Depending on how severe the water spots are, using mild soap and distilled water may not be effective. Use vinegar or lemon juice for stains that are more difficult to remove.
How may plant leaves be cleaned so they sparkle?
First things first: We do not advise cleaning your indoor plants with leaf-shining treatments. There are various commercial plant shine products available, and many stores utilize them to enhance the appearance of their plants. Nevertheless, leaf shine products sometimes cause more harm than benefit.
Stomata, which are microscopic pores found in plants, are essential for many of the organisms’ processes. Stomata allow oxygen to enter through during respiration. Stomata let carbon dioxide to pass through during photosynthesis. Additionally, stomata let water vapor to flow through during transpiration. Numerous leaf shine items block these apertures with oil or wax, which restricts the critical gas exchanges that stomata are necessary to.
Even while the leaf shine product makes the promise that it is clog-free, its residue might draw in more dust and dirt, giving you a plant that is ultimately not all that shiny. You get caught in a never-ending cycle of cleaning and re-shining as the foliage gets harder to clean.
We all agree that plants are beautiful, but if you want to bring out even more of their beauty, there are safer ways to do it without endangering the health of the plants.
Clean plants’ leaves with a damp cloth.
Wet the towel (or sponge) and squeeze away the extra moisture. Place one hand softly underneath each leaf to support it while the other hand wipes down the top of the leaf while moving away from the stem. Repeat the procedure on the leaf’s underside, where common houseplant pests like to conceal themselves. Use a gentle brush if the leaves are delicate or little.
Shower your houseplants.
All plants, but especially those with numerous leaves, benefit greatly from a light, lukewarm shower. To make sure the water cleanses the undersides of the leaves, carefully run your hands through the vegetation. For ferns, orchids, and palms that enjoy dampness, this technique works well. Just be careful not to overwater your plant while you’re doing it (only water plants in containers with drainage holes) and be sure to shake off any extra water from the leaves afterward.
Clean leaves with a bit of soapy water.
Try combining water and all-natural liquid soap if water alone is insufficient. Either bathe your hands with the mixture and gently apply it to the plant, or you can carefully wipe the leaves with a soft cloth dipped in the soap and water mixture. Clean the plant’s leaves from top to bottom; doing so may assist get rid of any potential pests. When finished, thoroughly rinse the plant to remove all of the soapy liquid, then shake off any extra water.
Or opt for a mixture of vinegar and water or lemon juice and water.
Vinegar and water are also useful for removing residue accumulation on leaves. But be careful not to go overboard. Start by combining a gallon of water and one teaspoon of vinegar. After that, carefully dab the mixture onto the leaves of your plants using a delicate cloth. Bonus: The smell of vinegar works wonders to deter pests and curious animals. Lemon juice is a good substitute for vinegar. Mineral salts can be dissolved with the aid of an acid, such as lemon juice or vinegar. Lemon juice and water, in contrast to vinegar and water, won’t get rid of pests on your plants, but it will dissolve mineral buildup from hard tap water on your leaves.