We all require light, but because the days are so brief in the winter, it can be difficult to acquire much of it. Like people, plants require light to survive, even indoor plants. Homes only receive a limited amount of light throughout the winter, and if your home doesn’t face the appropriate direction, you might only receive light via select rooms and windows.
Be ready to relocate your plants over the winter to locations with windows and light. For the most light, make sure the windows are thoroughly cleaned both inside and out. In order for the leaves to properly absorb that light, make sure that any dust that has amassed on them has been removed.
How can I keep my indoor plants safe during winter?
You might need to give your pots additional protection depending on where you reside. The following are a few choices for overwintering containers:
- Put many pots next to the house or wall on the ground. Put the cold-hardiest plants outside the grouping, and the weaker ones in the middle. Place straw bales around the outside. Putting them together improves the insulation’s mass and volume, shielding them from chilly breezes that could cause freezing and desiccation.
- Mulch pots with straw, mulch, or chopped leaves for further insulation. Snow is a wonderful insulator as well. Grouping pots in a premade pond liner and filling it with mulch is an intriguing concept for insulating containers.
- The only insulation for roots is the wall of the pot itself because the majority of roots usually tend to be on the exterior of the rootball. To insulate roots, place foam along the walls of square pots that is at least an inch thick before planting. Fill the internal walls of rounded pots with foam peanuts.
- Fill the container up with soil and bury the pots there.
- Plant the rootball in the ground after removing it from the container. Clean the container, then keep it inside. Next year, remove the root ball and repot it in the same or a bigger container.
- Burlap, bubble wrap, old blankets, or geotextile blankets can all be used to wrap pots. Since the roots require protection, the entire plant doesn’t need to be covered. The root zone will retain heat thanks to the support of these protective covers.
- Cover plants at night with cloth, burlap, or plastic if low temperatures are anticipated. If you use plastic, make sure to take it off during the day because the heat can hasten the growth of the buds. Additionally, when covering, take care not to harm the plants’ tops. Plant damage from the cold and pests is facilitated by injury.
- To offer further security, place your pot inside of a larger pot. The bigger pot should have extra insulation or sturdy walls for this to work optimally.
Hard freezes may be unusual to nonexistent in USDA Zones 7 through 11, therefore it may not be essential to add insulation or move pots indoors for the winter. There are several tasks, nevertheless, that you should still be mindful of. Plant development will stall in the winter because of the lower temperatures, and watering may become less regular. However, salt can accumulate in the soil and increase toxicity levels. Leach the salts out with water. As required, fertilize plants as well.
How do houseplants endure the winter?
1. Relocate plants away from radiators, drafty windows, and vents. Try to keep plants away from areas that become overly hot or cold because most plants don’t like excessive temperature changes. Plants that like the sun and stay out of the drafts should be placed on a side table close to the window, but not on the windowsill.
2. Verify the humidity of the air. When the heat is on full blast and the windows are shut, the humidity level in your home is probably significantly lower than the 40 to 50 percent range that many houseplants require to thrive. Purchasing a humidifier is the simplest answer (here are 10 of our favorites). Even if adding moisture may seem like a big expense for a few ferns, it will also make it simpler for you to breathe. An alternative is to purchase a mister bottle to spritz the plant leaves, especially if they begin to appear dry or crunchy.
3. Keep the temperature constant. While each species’ optimal temperature differs, most plants thrive in a range of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and won’t mind a small drop in temperature at night.
4. Test them out. Give your plants a quarter rotation every time you water them to avoid uneven growth. This will guarantee that everyone has a chance to enjoy the sun.
5. Refrain from overwatering. It’s likely that you’ll flood your plants if you stick to the same watering routine that you used over the summer. As the top of the soil dries out first, the easiest approach to test the soil moisture is to stick your finger 2 inches below the surface. It’s always a good idea to pick a planter with drainage holes and avoid letting the roots stay in too much water, which can lead to rot, regardless of the time of year.
6. Take a bath with your plants. Use a moist sponge or towel to clean your houseplant’s leaves if they appear dusty. Simply use your palm to support the leaf’s back to prevent unintentional tearing.
7. Use less fertilizer. When growth is naturally at its slowest in the winter, resist the desire to fertilize your indoor plants. Resuming feeding should be done when the weather warms up and your plants begin to grow once more.
8. Maintain cacti’s coolness (surprise!). You might think that cactus would like a scorching climate, but most species of cacti prefer a cool (but sunny) home throughout the winter, just as many deserts see a severe temperature decrease at night.
9. Trim limbs that are too long. Lack of light can cause plants to grow leggy, which is a term for long and spindly. This growth can be removed, along with any dead leaves, to make room for new springtime growth.
10. Watch for pest infestations. Pests should be avoided, especially if you brought any outdoor plants indoors for the season. One of the most prevalent pests, spider mites, can be particularly problematic during the winter when dry, dusty circumstances encourage them to look for moisture in the leaves of indoor plants. Infested plants can be saved by wiping the leaves with a water and very mild dish soap solution. Alternately, consider utilizing ingredients from your kitchen to make a homemade insecticide.
How are plants debugged before being brought inside for the winter?
First, I’m going to discuss debugging smaller potted plants for indoor use. I completed a lot of these in largely the same manner.
Step 1: Fill a soapy bucket
Put soap and water in a bucket. I just spray a small amount in to start some decent suds; I don’t quantify mine. Because the cleanser is concentrated and foams up beautifully, I adore Sal Suds. It leads me to believe that it is thoroughly debugging the plants. Even though it’s likely all in my head. (I used the exact same material to clean our outside rug.)
I used our sink instead of a bucket one evening after it was dark to concentrate on troubleshooting a couple of smaller plants. I brought the plants inside and immediately filled the sink with soapy water so they could soak.
For each plant you soak, the soapy water solution does not need to be changed. If yours is starting to smell bad, I’d suggest starting over with a new tub of soapy water.
Step 2: Soak and spray (if necessary)
Spend around 15 minutes soaking. enough to put any undesirable guests to death. Make sure to turn any foliage that is still above the water so that all of the plant is submerged in the soapy water. Neem oil can be used to thoroughly coat the foliage if you are unable to completely soak the plant. Keep this outside.
You can still employ this technique even if your plant lacks a drainage hole. But it works best on plants that have drainage holes (which most outdoor planters have anyways). If your container lacks a drainage hole, you should take the plant and soil out after soaking it so that it may breathe.
Step 3: Scoop and tidy
Scoop out anything that floats to the surface while the plant is in the water. Anything at all, including decaying leaf, sticks, soil, and bark. So that you can use it again on the following plant, keep the water as debris-free as possible.
Step 4: Remove, rinse, repot (if necessary), and dry
Remove your plant once it has finished soaking, then rinse off as much of the soap residue as you can. To get everything out of the drainage hole, I prefer to water the plant several times (just like I would normally do).
The plant needs to dry out and completely drain the extra water now. If you like, you can remove the plant from the pot and set it on its side, especially if you intend to repot it in new soil or a bigger container. For several of mine, I did that. If not, simply allow the plant to totally dry off before bringing it inside.
These photos are of a few plants I was working on at night after R went to bed, but I let most of mine dry in the backyard on a heavy black contractor garbage bag. They are therefore in a kitchen garbage bag on the counter.
When the season is over, what should you do with your potted plants?
Ten things to do:
- 1.) Don’t just clean, “sanitize.
- 2. Remove the dead materials.
- 3. Cut off the wilted perennial flowers.
- 4.) “Put compost on top of the gardens.
- 5. One final grass cutting.
- 6.) Apply lawn fertilizer.
- 7.) Guard the delicate material.
- 8. Examine the mulch.
Where do you keep indoor plants in pots throughout the winter?
Perennials and shrubs, which were formerly mostly used for in-ground plantings, have become more and more popular to grow in pots in recent years. I particularly like how using perennials and shrubs in this way gives you more alternatives and fascinating combinations.
What to Do With Potted Plants at the End of the Season
There are those who would like to overwinter these plants so they can be used again the following year, however many people treat perennials and shrubs that are grown in pots as annuals and discard them at the end of the season.
Let me start by stating that there is nothing wrong with growing shrubs or perennials in pots and then removing them at the conclusion of the growing season. Consider marguerite daisies as an example. Many plants that we grow as annuals in colder areas are perennials in warm winter climates. Although they are annuals for me here in the Midwest, they are perennials in southern California. These “annuals” are grown for one season, thrown away in the compost, and then purchased again the following year. Perennial plants can certainly receive the same care. You might not want to preserve a perennial or shrub for the next year if you plant in a small area and grow easily bored, as I know happens to me. Repeal and begin again. Despite all the talk about gardening “rules,” what matters most is that you like your garden.
Choosing the Best Plants for Overwintering
It is possible for those of you who desire to overwinter a perennial or shrub in a pot. Choosing a plant that will thrive in the container is the easiest approach to overwinter a plant in it. A plant should generally be two zones hardier than the climate zone you live in in order for it to survive the winter in a container on your patio. I should pick a plant in a pot that is hardy to zone 3 because I reside in zone 5 and want to be sure it will survive there.
Because the soil in a pot will freeze more quickly than the soil in the ground, a plant in a pot needs to be hardery than one planted in the ground. Additionally, the soil will thaw out faster than the ground. Multiple freeze/thaw cycles will result throughout the winter as a result of this. Plants are particularly vulnerable to freeze/thaw activity. Since of the huge amount of surrounding area, plants in the ground benefit because the ground simply stays warmer than a pot will. If you like to take chances, you may try to overwinter a plant in a pot that is kept outside and is hardy in a zone that is one zone higher than your own (for a zone 5 garden, this would be a plant). You’ll probably succeed some winters, but in others the plant won’t make it. Choose a plant that is two zones harder if you want to attempt and secure your success.
Choosing a Container
If you intend to leave your pot outside during the winter, pick a container that won’t crack from freezing and thawing. Pots made of clay, glass, or porcelain are prone to shattering in the winter. Even though I’ve occasionally had success leaving pots of this kind out all winter, I realized I was taking a chance by doing so. Pots made of plastic, composite materials, metal, and wood are all suitable options for a container that will be left outside.
Care Considerations
Even during the winter, maintaining a perennial or shrub in a pot requires some maintenance. If your plants are dormant, don’t fertilize them. Cease fertilizing once they stop actively developing in the fall, but keep watering when the soil is dry. Once active growth has begun in the spring, you can start fertilizing. Your plant will still require some water over the winter. Desiccation may cause the plant to perish if the soil becomes entirely dry. Even though routine watering is not required, keep an eye on the soil’s moisture content and provide water if necessary. Avoid keeping the soil wet, as drowning your plant is another something to be concerned about. I err more on the side of being too dry than too wet. Make sure the pot is placed in a spot where it can drain, and lift the pot off the ground using pot feet or another material to aid with drainage.
Overwintering Marginally Hardy Plants
You can still effectively overwinter these plants in containers if you have a plant that is hardy to your zone or just one zone harder than that (a zone 4 or 5 plant in my zone 5 climate). Simply said, you’ll need to take action in addition to leaving the pot out on the patio. The pot can first be kept in an unheated garage (or other unheated but protected spot). The pot will be protected from freeze/thaw cycles and too much harsh freezing by the building’s insulation. Place the plant inside as soon as you can without endangering it. This unheated area can be completely dark or illuminated. The soil must still be kept from drying out completely, though.
Digging a hole in an unoccupied or inconspicuous area of your garden is an alternative to using an unheated garage. Put the plant-filled pot inside the hole. Make sure the pot’s lip is either slightly elevated above the ground or parallel to it. To secure the pot, cover it with soil. The container will maintain the same temperature as the surrounding soil because it is underground. Although you generally won’t need to water this plant, you should check on it from time to time in case it need additional water. Pull the planted container out of the ground in the spring, give it a good cleaning, and then put it back where it belongs. Start fertilizing as soon as the plant begins to develop aggressively.
The third option is to put off planting until the fall and then do it then. You can either leave it there during the winter and dig it up in the spring to replant it in the pot, or you can leave it there permanently.
The final choice is a method that northern gardeners who cultivate hybrid tea roses are familiar with. The only way to successfully overwinter hybrid tea roses in really cold locations is to dig a trench, tip the plant into the trench, and then cover it with dirt or mulch to keep it warm over the winter. With shrubs and perennials in pots, this technique will also work. Simply uncover the plant in the spring, set the pot upright, clean it as needed, and relocate it to its usual location. Start fertilizing as soon as the plant begins to develop aggressively.
Crib Sheet for Overwintering Perennials and Shrubs in Containers:
1. A perennial or shrub needs to be two zones hardier than the zone you live in in order to overwinter it in a container outside.
2. Shrubs and perennials in your zone or one colder can be moved, buried in the ground, or overwintered in an unheated garage.
3. Containerized perennials and shrubs need water over the winter but shouldn’t be kept soggy.
4. Avoid fertilizing during the winter. Start feeding the plant in the spring when vigorous growth starts.
5. Employ big containers. The roots are better protected from the cold in large containers than in small pots.
6. Congregate for warmth. If you have several containers, gather them together and put them in a safe spot. Additionally, if you place them on the ground as opposed to a deck, they will be better protected from the cold. And stay away from areas where the wind is blowing. To further protect against the cold in some locations, it may be advantageous to mulch them.