Small mounds of dirt known as plugs are created when roots bind them together. The benefits of succulent plugs are numerous: With additional savings when you purchase more trays, bulk trays make succulents more affordable. Because trays provide the succulents structure and safeguard the roots, shipping is easier for the plants.
How are succulent plugs used?
Great! The plugs should be planted in soil and given a week or two of indirect light to get started.
Give them morning sunlight little by little until their roots are formed.
The soil’s moisture content should be sufficient to supply the plugs with water as they acclimate to their new surroundings.
How are succulent plugs transplanted?
You need to get ready for when the hardy succulents you ordered that were cultivated as plugs arrive. This is an excellent method to add more hardy succulents to your collection at a significantly lower cost. These simple techniques will help you grow healthy plants from plugs.
1. Immediately unpack and conduct an inventory to ensure that your order is accurate and in good condition. Contact the merchant right once if there are any errors with the order or dying or damaged plants.
2. Create labels, and if you didn’t prepare your containers while awaiting the delivery of your order, you can now. Additionally, be certain that your plant markers are prepared to be placed in the pots or trays as soon as the seeds have been planted. In this manner, you can recognize them after planting.
3. After putting everything together for planting, take one plant out at a time. The plug substance that the roots are growing in can be softened with water. If the roots are quite little when you plant them, don’t worry; they will grow. Remove the plug material with care. Don’t throw away any small bits of sedum that fall off because they will typically take root and grow into new plants.
4. Fill each pot with the proper potting mix and name it.
5. Water them and allow them to sit until they are actively developing outside in a protected but light area. When that time comes, you can plant them wherever you wish (raised beds, containers, etc).
In this case, I utilized a nursery tray that can hold four plastic pots. The small-sized varieties of sedum and sempervivum benefit from this because their roots don’t require much depth to develop. In 4″ plastic pots that will fit into the molded tray, the plants that develop deeper roots will flourish. They won’t trip or trip over because of it. Have you noticed that some of the pots appear to be empty? In order for me to identify which sedum it is once it begins to sprout further plants, they have little broken bits of sedum sprinkled on top of the soil with an ID tag.
The plants in the picture on the right were obtained from Mamajack’s Co-op last year. Each one developed into a beautiful, rich sedum that this year adds beauty to the garden.
Here is a sample of the heuffelii, Jovibarba, and Sempervivum plants I purchased from MamaJack’s Co-op last year.
Why do you cover succulents with pebbles?
Have you ever wondered why there is a layer of beautiful pebbles on top of so many succulent arrangements? Have you ever overheard someone discussing top dressing for succulents and wondered what it was or what it was used for? Pebbles are used as a layer for succulents for more reasons than just aesthetics. Learn more about top dressing and the benefits of using it on your succulents by reading on.
What Is Top Dressing?
In agriculture and gardening, top dressing is utilized. A top dressing is typically a thin, even layer of rich soil, compost, manure, or worm castings that is added to a garden bed, lawn, or field soon before planting. After that, it is tilled into the ground so that the seeds or plants can grow there. After the plants are set up, a top dressing for succulents is a uniform coating of inorganic material, such as pebbles, gravel, crushed rock, or broken seashells, that is spread over the top of the soil. The top dressing of a succulent is applied and kept in place, completely covering the soil to a depth of about a third of an inch. For plants growing in the ground or in containers, this offers a number of advantages.
Benefits of Top Dressing for Succulents
Succulents can benefit from inorganic top dressing in numerous ways:
- Succulent top dressing aids in soil temperature regulation, protecting the roots from extreme temperature swings.
- Light colored gravel or pebbles reflect heat, which is good in warmer climes, while dark colors absorb heat more readily, warming the soil and encouraging root growth.
- Pebbles reduce the powerful force of water from rain or irrigation, which stops soil erosion. This prevents soil from dripping onto your plants’ leaves.
- An inorganic top dressing that is at least 1/3 inch thick inhibits insects from laying their eggs in the moist organic soil. This is the most effective approach to get rid of bothersome gnats in your house.
- Weed barriers are created by top treatments.
- To prevent plastic pots and containers from blowing away, it gives them weight.
- Before newly planted succulents fully root into the surrounding soil matrix, top dressing can assist keep them upright.
And let’s face it, uncovered earth looks less appealing than a coating of ornamental stones. I suggest putting top dressing in my advice on how to cultivate succulents because of all these benefits.
Top Dressing for Succulents
Succulent top dressings are available in a variety of hues, textures, and sizes. We typically think of ornamental pebbles, but there are other materials you can use, including sand, gravel, crushed granite, glass, fire glass, seashells, crushed coral, small stones, and pieces of semi-precious stones like amethyst, tiger eye, and quartz.
Consider your top dressing choices carefully. Make sure the sand is clean or rinsed before using it. Your plants will suffer because of the high salt content of beach sand. And ensure that the “You utilize colorfast colorful rocks that are not just powder-coated. Some landscape rocks offered for sale in home improvement stores have a color coating that peels off, coloring the plants and creating a mess. Use any designated as “Despite the fact that you can also find excellent items in aquarium stores or even fire glass for decorative fire features, top dressing. For inspiration, browse the selection of delicious top dressings in my Amazon store. Use of either is secure for succulent plants.
Succulent top dressings and pebbles come in a wide range of hues, from muted earth tones to neon-bright hues of green, blue, yellow succulent, and purple that are rarely seen in nature. What should you use then? The solution that appeals to you the most is the best one. Seriously. Who is to say that you’ll appreciate my taste if I show you and explain the factors I take into account while selecting the best dressings? I want a natural appearance that highlights the plant and harmonizes the hues and textures of the succulent and its container. But if you prefer the aesthetic of silvery-green succulents paired with pink DayGlo pebbles, rock on!
Choosing Top Dressing for Succulents
I compare succulent top dressing to jewels for clothing. It shouldn’t overpower the aesthetic or offer unnecessary intrigue. Debra Lee Baldwin may have said it best. She compares the mat for a painting to ornamental pebbles for succulent plants. The container serves as the frame, the top dressing as the mat, and the succulents as the artwork in her opinion.
To demonstrate the difference, I photographed an Echeveria Perle von Nurnberg in a ceramic succulent pot with three different top dressings. I chose black sand with a hint of glitter because the pot has a shiny, black rim. The lower portion of the pot is a shiny tan tint. I decided on caramel-colored sand and tan pebbles with a matte texture. Isn’t the distinction each creates amazing? Consider the Echeveria PVN with a top dressing that is plum-toned.
Always keep the effect you hope to achieve in mind when you choose your top dressing. Your choice of pebbles, sand, and rocks may differ from if you want to showcase the plant if the pot is particularly cool and you want to draw attention to it.
A Matter of Scale
Almost always, when people refer to top dressing for succulents, they are referring to pea gravel or decorative pebbles that are around 1/51/4 inch in size. That is the size of the tan stones I used, which are displayed with the Echeveria PVN in the middle of the trio above. But you have to admit, I find the sand to be very attractive. Although it is more challenging to reuse than pebbles for different plants, I think it looks fantastic for a single planting.
Although most people wouldn’t think to wear something this bulky, doesn’t it look magnificent? Susan Aach produced this ceramic pot by hand. She combined a Ferocactus with it and added a top dressing with a thick, rough texture to really tie the two together. I like how it looks.
Another coupling of a Susan Aach pot with a sizable top dressing is seen here. Together, they perfectly accentuate this stunning, variegated Echeveria Compton Carousel. When matching her pots, plants, and top dressings, she really displays her artistic eye. She strikes a balance between the pots’ and the plants’ aesthetic appeal to create a real synergy. Visit Susan Aach’s website to learn more about her handcrafted ceramics and look at my encounter with her. Susan, thank you for allowing us to use your lovely photos!
Are There Problems Using Top Dressing for Succulents?
If you’ve never added stones for succulents to your pots, you can have the following inquiries:
Does the soil retain moisture because of the pebbles? Regular readers are aware that choosing a fast-draining succulent soil is crucial to the wellbeing of your plants. This cannot be negotiated. How about including the pebbles now? It is true that top dressings for succulents stop the soil from evaporating and losing moisture to the air. However, you want the water to get beyond the plant’s roots and through the soil, where it can be absorbed. The value of the to dressing and a good soil more than makes up for the small quantity of evaporation wasted.
Does the top dressing restrict the soil’s and the roots’ ability to breathe? For a succulent plant to survive, its roots require oxygen. The roots may acquire oxygen thanks to tiny air pockets in the arid soil. Even a top layer of sand, pebbles, or gravel allows air to enter the soil and nourish the roots of plants. Insufficient drainage causes too much water to permeate the soil, removing air spaces and “flood the plant. Top dressing does not impede your plant’s ability to get enough oxygen.
If you can’t touch the earth, how can you tell when your succulent plants need watering? Many succulent growers focus their watering decisions on how dry their soil feels. This approach is much better for me than sticking to a rigid timetable. Even better, water your succulents when they show signs of needing it rather than before. My ideal tool to measure the water content of soil is a chopstick “moisture gauge Place the chopstick in the ground. Do not water if it emerges feeling or looking moist or with earth clinging to it. It’s time to water when it comes out clean and dry!
Where to Buy Pebbles for Succulents?
Where can I acquire succulent top dressings now that I’ve explained why and how to apply them? I can suggest a few excellent sources. First, there is a part of my Amazon store dedicated to top dressing for succulents. Sand to gravel are represented by a variety of hues, styles, and sizes. Additionally, Mountain Crest Gardens provides a great selection of rocks and sand for succulents. With the aforementioned cautions in mind, think about home supply stores, pet stores, and aquarium supply stores. Make inventive decisions!
Will you use top dressing to finish your succulent planters now that you are aware of all the advantages? I’m curious to know! Let me know what you think or if you have any questions by leaving a comment below.
P.P.S. Would you consider joining my Facebook group for cactus lovers? We discuss design, identification, propagation, and care of succulents. They’re a friendly bunch who would love to meet you!
Should I unplug my planter’s plug?
Plant pots are available in a variety of hues, designs, and drainage configurations. Some pots have no drainage holes, while others have several or only one on the bottom. The drain cap that can be removed is another choice. Removable drain plugs allow for drainage if necessary, but they can also be sealed to keep any items in the pot in place. It is vital to take extra precautions to keep any potting material inside the pot if you plan to use the drain.
- Plant pots are available in a variety of hues, designs, and drainage configurations.
- Removable drain plugs allow for drainage if necessary, but they can also be sealed to keep any items in the pot in place.
In the bottom of the pot, add a layer of rocks with a diameter of about 2 inches. Clear out the drainage hole. The drainage hole should be surrounded by a triangle of rocks.
On top of the rocks, add a loose layer of potting soil to the pot, filling it up to 2 inches below the rim.
Make a hole in the dirt that is big enough to fit the plant’s root system.
- In the bottom of the pot, add a layer of rocks with a diameter of about 2 inches.
Must I take out the plant plug?
There is a widespread notion that “plugs” are problematic. Unfortunately, it has worsened due to plant problems and deaths brought on by indoor gardeners mistreating the plants, which has prompted them to investigate the root of the problem. The fault lies with these indoor gardeners because they don’t comprehend the plug’s function or proper use.
When the plant begins to suffer, the owner probes the soil to determine why, notices the plug and the absence of roots, and comes to the conclusion that the plug is the problem. In actuality, the healthy plant’s root system has rotted away, and what is left of it is barely surviving outside of the plug. The plants frequently start out appearing depressed from overwatering, then the color or general appearance may fade from lack of nutrients, then the plants start to look thirsty from the lack of surviving roots that can adequately hydrate the plant. At this point, the plant may occasionally receive additional water, aggravating the problem. Last but not least, the indoor gardener digs about in the soil and discovers the plug but no roots, wrongly supposing that the plug has’suffocated’ the roots and is the problem.
Even though the plant has roots that extend beyond the plug and into the soil, some indoor gardeners will notice the plug early on and name it nasty or a “death plug,” which is inaccurate and extremely evocative. Then they assert that once the plug was taken out, the plant flourished. Once more, what has actually happened is that a plant in a pine bark potting mix is no longer being overwatered as it was before, thanks to the removal of the plug. The plant is once more content and able to thrive because it is now receiving the appropriate water for the medium it is in, one that dried out very quickly. It is clear that the plug never prevented this from happening; rather, the plant was just having trouble growing in a pot with two different soil types and inadequate irrigation. Of course, once a plant is owned by an indoor gardener, they are free to do as they like, but pulling out the plug can frequently harm the plant’s root system. After this happens, the plant must re-establish it in order to continue growing or, in some situations, the plant will perish.