- snips for gardening or wire cutters for ties If you try to cut wire with normal scissors, they will become quite blunt very quickly.)
- green ties
- wooden chopstick or peg (optional)
*Depending on the plant, I have a few options in my plant care kit, including: soft ties, which are thicker with a wire core for flexibility; regular (thin) plant wire; these elasticated bands with “arrows” that I bought at a stationery store; and a velcro roll, which is adjustable and can be cut to size.
Because my grandparents often used old tights (pantyhose) cut into strips for their tomatoes and runner beans, I frequently use them for my outside plants. My nan’s old “pop socks,” which had been replaced or laddered, were chopped up, and I clearly recall putting them in an old (empty) ice cream tub in the greenhouse. These can also be used to indoor plants.
Remember that every plant has a unique “personality” and growth pattern, thus no two monsteras will ever appear the same growing around a support. Working with each plant individually and giving it the best assistance possible will ensure its growth and success.
To begin with, you should determine whether your monstera’s pot has enough space for a support to be added without repotting. Get a trowel and dig a small hole for the support to go into if you aren’t planning to re-pot the plant (if you are using a sphagnum or coir pole). The cane supports can be easily put into the potting mixture if you’re utilizing them.
When repotting a plant, start by removing the soil from around the roots. Next, look for any dry or shriveled roots and trim them off. If your monstera is actually composed of several smaller plants, separate them and arrange them around the coir pole in the pot. This will enable the plant to naturally mould itself around the support.
My large monstera plant is shown in photographs taken from the side, demonstrating how the plant ‘leans up’ on the support, which is placed just off the center of the planter. My plant was trained from a somewhat little specimen, and as a result, it has really begun to encircle the coir pole, making it less noticeable from the front. If you add a support, keep in mind that the shape of your monstera will effect how your plant looks, however they do adjust. I have three monstera plants, and I think this one is the most attractive because the support is so completely hidden by the leaves. This was done on purpose because my plant is next to a wall and over the past few years, all of the leaves had oriented themselves toward the window. Choose a support that will allow your plant to be seen from all sides if it is the focal point of the room. In this case, I would recommend using two U-shaped canes crossed over like an X (each cane at 90 degrees from the other, crossing over in the center of the curve).
Here are some close-ups of the placement of the coir poles from when I repotted my monstera plants last summer, as well as instructions on how to wedge the pole into place using a chopstick or a dolly peg to make it stable.
If you want to learn more about the general repotting procedure, follow the blog post link I provided here.
*I recently repotted all three of these lovely plants, so I’ll put together a post in the upcoming weeks to illustrate how they currently appear.
Make sure the support is inserted deeply enough! With my plants at their current size, I set the coir pole exactly at the base of my pot and then start to re-pot, adding potting soil all around it. Maximum stability will result from this. If required, I use a knife to cut away part of the extra coir to reduce how much of the wooden central pole is covered. I added the extensible sections to the top of the pole while I’m using it, so I shouldn’t have to entirely separate the stems from the coir for a very long time.
Before leaving your monstera unattended, be aware that the support may move somewhat when you water it. The soil naturally moves when the plant is watered, therefore even though the pole is buried deep in the pot, it is inevitable that it too will move slightly. Additionally, as new leaves expand, they can occasionally slightly pull on the coir, causing it to move. The pegs might actually help to hold it more securely. I only occasionally correct my plant because it has a tendency to lean.
In the image below, you can observe that not all plants pleasantly cluster around a support. My tiniest monstera plant, it hasn’t really developed into itself yet. I have an idea for what you could do if your plant sprawls out and simply doesn’t seem like it will take to a pole—what that’s I intend to do with mine!
Of course, you could just let it grow naturally, but if you want to give it some support over the long haul, you could train all new stems—which are much more malleable—around the pole as they develop. Although this is a lengthier procedure, some of the older stems that may be growing at an odd angle can be clipped in pairs of leaves+ propagated as the new growth forms around the support.
The stem of my plant, which is visible above, is at such an angle that it would shatter if I attempted to move it. If your plant has this type of development, you might want to cut these stems off in pairs (they tend to root more readily this way; see photo below) and water propagate them (let the cutting grow roots in water). If you’d like your monstera to be fuller, you can replant this cutting around its stem. As an alternative, you might begin to develop a new plant from this cutting and expand your collection of monstera.
Although this monstera adansonii vine is not a monstera deliciosa, I thought I would show you how I used the U support, as you can see below.
I wrapped the stems around the cane without using any ties after untangling them. I want to grow a complete, column-shaped plant for my vanity and will train the middle stems to wrap around the structure as they become bigger. It provides this area of the space a nice sense of height.
Even though I adore my large monstera at its current size, I dug up some earlier pictures of it from 23 years ago to show you how it changed over that period. To see it expand even further, you can look over my Instagram account in the past.
The support for my large monstera is noticeably uneven in these two close-up photos of it in its current location. You can also see that I utilized a variety of ties to hold it in place. I have no plans to move this pole; it has been there for two years. Even my grandfather’s ancient wooden ruler is inside for stability. Even if it appears a little disorganized from the rear, the front view reveals that most of this is hidden.
Maintaining plants is a continuous process of learning for me, in addition to being a patience practice. The process of learning how to take care of plants involves experimentation, trial, and occasionally error. I am aware that many novice houseplant enthusiasts are reluctant to repot their plants or to consider giving their cherished monstera a support. I hope this blog will give you some confidence in how to take care of your plants, and I’m incredibly appreciative of your “support” (pun intended).
*This post contains affiliate links, which entitles me to a (very) little commission if you decide to make a purchase. I appreciate your support of my blog.
How is a Monstera plant domesticated?
When Monstera deliciosa is young, it typically grows vertically on a small number of stems, but as it becomes older and heavier, it begins to grow horizontally. It may startle new plant owners to discover that their once-vertical house plant is beginning to occupy an increasing amount of horizontal space.
By using a support like a moss pole, coco coir pole, trellis, or stakes, you can train your Monstera to grow upward. However, given that Monsteras can acclimate to climbing on various supports, you also have other possibilities.
How is it possible to make Monstera stand up straight?
Right now, Monstera Deliciosa is a stylish and well-liked houseplant, and it’s simple to understand why. The room’s broad, glossy, dark-green leaves have a tropical feel to it, and under the correct circumstances, they develop swiftly. In fact, this plant’s potential for growing too large for some homes is one of its only drawbacks. When a Monstera grows large, it often tips over or leans to one side.
How can a Monstera Deliciosa be kept from leaning over? Staking a Monstera Deliciosa with a support like a moss pole, trellis, or garden stakes is the best way to keep it growing upright. These natural climbers can be trained to climb these poles by being connected to them, and they will be supported as they do so.
Although a Monstera won’t be harmed by not growing upright, most people like them to be as straight and tall as possible for aesthetic and spatial reasons. To help you keep your Monstera looking the way you want it to, I’ll go into further depth below why why this occurs in the first place.
When to Add a Moss Pole?
When your Monstera is young, is the ideal time to add a moss pole to its pot. This prevents it from developing a strong stem that is challenging to bend up onto the pole.
A juvenile Monstera will also still have very short aerial roots that can be guided directly into the moss rather of developing long and spreading out toward the floor or wall.
If you are repotting your Monstera or it is already in a pot, that is another factor to take into account when deciding when to add a moss pole. It is preferable to add a moss pole when you are repotting. In this manner, it is less likely to damage the roots and penetrate the soil deeply enough to be extremely stable.
Consideration when Installing a Moss Pole
Here are some considerations to make while setting up a moss pole for your Monstera. Its roots should not be disturbed, and pole stability should be maximized. Consider the pole’s height and the substance from which it is formed as well.
Avoid disturbing roots
The ideal time to add a new pole is when you are repotting your Monstera. The earth is loose at this time, and your Monstera has some movement to accommodate the pole.
You can still attach a moss pole if your Monstera is content in its pot. You merely need to exercise caution. Dig a small hole towards the pot’s center, then insert the pole as deeply as you can. To see where the roots are and avoid damaging them, it is preferable to remove some soil.
Ways to Maximise Pole Stability
Make sure the new moss pole for your Monstera is solid in the pot because it will serve as a sturdy support.
Try to position the moss pole in the pot’s center while planting it. It is more prone to lose equilibrium and topple the Monstera if it is too far to one side of the pot.
Verify that the ground is not bare around the pole. After setting the pole in place, compact the earth once more. We don’t want this to impair the stability of your Monstera because the water can occasionally cause the soil to settle strangely.
If stability is still a concern, you can use a chopstick or dowel to brace the pole against the side of the pot. This will prevent it from wriggling excessively.
Size of the Moss Pole
The moss pole on your Monstera should start out a few feet taller than the Monstera. It has some room to develop and climb in this manner.
A too-short moss pole will initially offer some support, but you will eventually encounter the same problems as previously. Monstera will begin to spread to the side, and its aerial roots won’t have anywhere to develop.
The ceiling of your house or place of business is the only true restriction on the height of the moss pole. But when your Monstera is a baby, it makes little sense to purchase a 6 foot (2 meter) tall pole.
For your Monstera, there are extendable moss pole choices, which we will go over later in the post.
How can you control a wild Monstera?
Giving monstera a moss totem to climb is the best approach to train it to become a house plant. These are available at garden centers, or you can create your own by rolling a tube of chicken wire with an inch-mesh 36 or 48 inches long and 4 inches in diameter. Put moistened long-strand sphagnum moss inside.
How can a monstera be taught to scale a wall?
Your Monstera should be allowed to climb since it is not only natural for them but also looks fantastic! The majority of Monstera enthusiasts prefer to offer some sort of support for the plants, like a totem pole or pole covered in moss.
Monstera plants develop tendrils covered in aerial roots to aid in climbing. Monsteras’ aerial roots provide a variety of functions in addition to absorbing moisture and nutrients from the atmosphere. In the rainforest, they also cling to the rough surfaces of big trees to aid the Monstera vine’s ascent to the canopy—exactly what a moss pole may accomplish for your indoor plant.
Not all Monstera climb, though. In hanging pots or baskets, some kinds, such as Monstera adansonii, produce a stunning display. Additionally, they can be stacked on top of bookcases, filing cabinets, or even the refrigerator’s top and left to hang over the sides.
It is ultimately a matter of personal opinion whether you let your Monstera climb or decide to let the cascading vines fall freely.
To add some variation, teach some of your Monstera plants to climb while allowing others to trail from pots or baskets to display their eye-catching foliage. Or, to create a Monstera climbing wall, group many Monstera plants together and build a trellis (or latticework) against the wall.