Next, form a tight knot with a length of string and tie it around the support’s top. Put some moss in large handfuls on your pole. While holding the moss around the pole with one hand, wrap the thread diagonally downward along the stake with the other. The pole should be covered in moss that is between half an inch and an inch thick. Because it will be buried in the ground, leave the lower third of the stake uncovered. Once the moss is in place, tie the rope off with a knot and trim the excess. Remove any extra moss by trimming it.
Which pole type is ideal for Monstera?
Best Moss Pole for Monstera, in brief
- For MonsteraTOP PICK, DUSPRO 2 Pack 25 Inch Real Moss Pole.
- 26.4-inch BESMYJ Moss Pole for Plants.
- 26.4-inch coir totem plant support with monkey moss.
- SUNSET LEAVES Moss Pole, 27.5 inches, Paper Pipe.
- 12 inch Grow Organiks Coco Coir Pole
Any pole will do for Monstera, right?
Monsteras thrive when cultivated indoors on a moss pole since they are epiphytes with a climbing growth habit. In comparison to monsteras grown as indoor houseplants without a moss pole, monsteras grown on a moss pole develop larger leaves with more fenestrations. Although moss poles are useful for monsteras grown indoors, they can also thrive without them. The decision to include a moss pole in your monstera’s growing environment is ultimately yours.
If you decide not to add a moss pole to your monstera, be aware that because these plants are made to climb vertically, they may find it difficult to support themselves as they age and get higher. By pruning new growth and propagating it, you can control the size of your monstera. Alternatively, you might support its expanding stem with a moss pole.
Materials
- 1/2″ 19 gauge hardware mesh with PVC coating (either 2 ft x 5 ft, 3 ft x 5 ft, or any other size that you can find.)
- Plastic-coated Wire Twist with Cutter, 100 feet, Vigoro
- Phragmites Moss
- Vigoro Plastic Coated Stakes are optional (4 ft or 6 ft)
STEP 1: SOAK YOUR SPHAGNUM MOSS IN WATER
- Go cautiously so that you don’t wind up with a ton of wet sphagnum moss leftover since the quantity of sphagnum moss you need obviously relies on how big your moss pole is! Only a few minutes of soaking are required, but you can leave it in the water until you are ready to use it.
- While working, if you run out of soaked moss, you can quickly and conveniently soak more.
- I merely added warm water to a plastic tray. Set this aside while you work on the following stages and swish the moss around to make sure it is all soaked. To soak the moss, you can either use a bucket or a sink.
STEP 2: BEND THE HARDWARE MESH INTO A CYLINDER
- I applied 1/2 “19 gauge PVC-coated hardware mesh, 2 feet by 5 feet. A 2 foot tall moss post will result from this. The roll is 5 feet long, so you’ll have plenty to create 6 or 7 posts with it.
- It’s okay if you locate hardware mesh in different sizes. Simply make sure that the wire mesh is PVC coated so that it is more resilient and won’t corrode. I located one that is half “x 4 ft x 25 ft, giving you moss poles that are 4 feet tall. If you think you’ll be making a lot, you can get this one since the roll is 25 feet long.
- As seen in the image below, gently bend the hardware mesh into a cylinder. The diameter can be as large or small as you like, although it gets more difficult to construct ones with really small diameters. The one I produced for this how-to has a circle of around 8 1/2 inches, and it was quite easy for me to shape with my hands.
STEP 5: FILL THE CYLINDER WITH PRE-MOISTENED SPHAGNUM MOSS
- Sphagnum moss should be squeezed to remove any extra water before you begin to fill your cylinder with it.
- You should add enough so that the moss is tightly packed when you seal the cylinder. Make sure the moss completely fills the cylinder and gently packs it down because over time it will start to disintegrate and become looser.
STEP 6: STITCH UP THE CYLINDER WITH PLASTIC COATED WIRE TWIST
- It’s now time to “stitch” your cylinder together and complete your creation. Start at one end of the cylinder after grabbing your roll of wire twist that has been plastic coated.
- After you’ve tied a few knots together to seal the cylinder, wait to cut the wire twist. My hand is seen clutching the wire roll’s long end in the image below. Tightening will be aided by this.
- You can cut the wire once you’ve finished adding a few knots and sealing the cylinder, but you should leave at least 3 inches of wire hanging from each end of the knot.
- Up until your cylinder is finished, add these stitches every 6 inches or so.
In case you need to reinforce your moss pole for a heavier plant in the future, you are keeping longer twists linked to the pole. This will be covered briefly later.
STEP 7: REPOT YOUR PLANT OF CHOICE AND ADD THE MOSS POLE
- The moss pole should then be positioned at the base of an empty pot. Next, insert the plant and secure it to the moss pole. Fill up with your potting mix lastly!
- To attach the stems of your plant to the moss pole, next, cut more plastic coated wire twists. The aerial root that was growing on my Monstera (circled in the photo below) was fastened just below so that it could swell into the moss.
- To fasten a square of the mesh grid, you tuck a portion of the wire twist under the square and twist it around the stem.
REINFORCING THE MOSS POLE FOR HEAVY PLANTS
- Although it is not required, you can strengthen your moss pole if you have a heavier plant. Use a spike with a plastic coating to reinforce the moss pole, and then knot the stake as shown in the photo below using the ties you left on the moss pole when you first stitched it together.
- You can choose a 6 foot stake or a 4 foot stake with plastic coating. Even though there may be other sizes available, pick one that is the same length as the moss pole you want to strengthen.
- The plastic coated stake can either be added at the beginning or later, in which case you just need to twist the plastic coated twists that are already on the moss pole.
- If you are extending your moss pole, it is also beneficial to reinforce it with a stake. Your plant will eventually grow to the top of your moss pole. When this occurs, you have two options: either kill the plant if it grows higher than the pole, or extend your moss pole. Here are the steps; after I repeat them, I’ll soon post pictures. The process is essentially the same as when you constructed your first moss pole, with the exception that this time you’ll be working vertically on top of the first moss pole.
EXTENDING YOUR MOSS POLE
- The existing moss pole that you want to extend? Measure its circumference.
- On your roll of hardware mesh, take an exact measurement and cut it out.
- Similar like before, form it into a loose cylinder.
- The top of the current moss pole should be encircled by the cylinder. You should overlap by around three squares. To completely fasten the new cylinder, twist your plastic-coated wire.
- Start filling the new cylinder with wet sphagnum moss. At the bottom, where the new cylinder joins the old moss pole, make sure it is firmly packed down.
- Use your plastic coated wire twist to stitch the cylinder together approximately every 6 inches as you fill it until you reach the top.
- When you’re finished, return to the intersection of the newly joined pole and the old moss pole. If extra reinforcement is required, add more twists of plastic-coated wire.
- If more support is required, add one of the plastic-coated stakes and firmly fasten it to the moss pole with the plastic-coated twists.
Bamboo canes
A wonderful moss pole substitute if you don’t want to spend a lot of money is bamboo canes (or stakes). They may be easily trimmed to the right size and are generally accessible. In fact, if you know where to search, you might be able to get some at a gardening supply store for no cost. They do not, however, offer the same nutritional advantages as a moss pole.
Coir poles
In essence, a coir pole is a moss pole composed of coco coir fiber. Its resistance to decay and mold makes it a good substitute for moss poles. But because coir can release salts into the soil, you’ll need to alter your fertilization schedule. You may either purchase coco coir poles or create your own by utilizing the same process as with moss poles.
- suitable for outdoor use
- well-maintains water
- enduring longer than moss
PVC pipe
If you’re looking for something entirely weather-resistant, PVC piping is a good alternative to moss poles. It can also cause the soil to absorb chemicals and has a poor appearance. Instead of being used as a plant stake, it creates a good trellis or frame. Don’t stress out too much about the chemical leaching issue because PVC pipe is frequently used as the core in DIY moss pole instructions. Repotting on a regular basis can avoid the issue.
- straightforward to cut to the necessary length
- outstanding for support frames
Metal pipeor Stake
If you want something weatherproof, another moss pole alternative is metal pipe. Similar in function as PVC pipe, but with a superior aesthetic and no chemical leaching into the soil. The biggest drawbacks, though, are that it’s heavy, tough to cut, and unattractive to plants. For this reason, metal pipes should only be used as a last resort or if they truly complement your architectural preferences.
- more attractive than PVC pipe
- Weather-resistant
- not a chemical leak
- a challenge to work with
- Plants can’t easily scale metal.
Wood stakes
Along with bamboo canes, wood stakes are one of the more common choices. Any type of wood product, including unused or recycled lumber, new wood, tree branches, etc., may be used. Make sure the wood wasn’t painted or chemically treated if it is reclaimed.
- a logical choice
- If you know where to look, they may be free.
- Branching from trees has a nicer mood and might be nourishing.
- Avoid using wood that has been chemically treated.
Monsteras, do you need a pole?
The quick response? They don’t need poles because the decision is primarily aesthetic.
The way each Monstera deliciosa plant grows differently is one of my favorite things about them. Some grow up straight, while others sprawl or lean. However, in my experience, it’s best to observe how your particular plant is growing and then choose the support structure that will help prop the plant up and, if you like, guide it to grow to fit your chosen aesthetic. I’ve noticed that many people automatically put a moss pole in with their monsteras thinking this is necessary for optimal growth.
A moss pole in the center of a container won’t cause the plant to shift its growth pattern. It only offers a framework to either change or support its current growth pattern. A wooden stake may be adequate for smaller plants to direct growth upward rather than outward. A trellis with its numerous connection points may be more efficient to corral a sprawler for plants that encroach on a lot of space (or for plants that are grown in various pots).
This large male is spontaneously developing (without the need for support yet), with each leaf stem extending out on either side of the main, thick and sturdy stem. It has a few long aerial roots, which I carefully tuck inside the pot because if I don’t, they could adhere to the wall. I’m going to leave it support-free until something changes because it has been enjoying expanding in this manner for a year and is still going strong.
Is a moss pole or trellis better for Monstera?
Those of you who have a Monstera deliciosa at home may have picked up on a few things since bringing it in. One, aren’t those leaves gorgeous? Two, it’s actually expanding quite swiftly. Third, M. deliciosa doesn’t comprehend the need of having sound personal limits. Give this adorable giant of a houseplant a moss totem to grasp onto if you find yourself outgrowing your home. Here, we’ll walk you through the installation process and show you how to control some of your monster’s adorable excitement.
M. deliciosa uses its powerful aerial roots to cling to and take moisture from the rough bark of large rainforest trees in its natural habitat. It is a natural wanderer. A moss totem is an upright pole that is completely covered in sphagnum moss and is staked into the plant’s pot. Its natural surface provides something for a monstera’s roots to grip onto and take moisture from, acting as a stand-in for a tree. A moss totem allows M. deliciosa to act more like it would in the wild while yet supporting those heavy stems and leaves better than a traditional plant stake or wire trellis.
With just a few basic tools, you can train a monstera to a moss pole:
- Your terra cotta monstera
- a ready-made moss totem
- Soft plant ties, yarn, or cotton string are good options for gentle ties.
- A new container that is 1-2 wider than the old one, together with high-quality potting soil for houseplants, if repotting is required.
We like Mosser Lee’s Totem PoleTM Extendable Plant Supports for moss totems. These realistic-looking, tube-shaped supports come in three lengths plus an additional 12 extensions for when your monstera inevitably becomes even bigger. They are packed with moisture-absorbing, long-fiber sphagnum moss.
Getting Started
Start by putting the moss totem in a shallow water container and letting it soak until it is completely soaked.
Before adding the totem, it’s a good idea to check your plant to see whether it has to be repotted while the moss is soaking. You can install the moss totem without repotting your M. deliciosa if the pot is large enough and the roots aren’t too crowded. However, if your plant needs a new pot anyhow, now is a fantastic time to start working on its new totem.
If your monstera has to be repotted, start by removing it from its current container and looking at the roots. If the roots are tightly packed, you may need to loosen them up a bit. As you normally would, repotter the plant into a new pot with fresh soil; however, instead of placing it exactly in the center, move it slightly toward the front of the pot. With the majority of the foliage facing outward, the moss totem can fit behind the plant in this manner.
Installing the Totem
When the plant and container are prepared, deeply embed the strong metal supports at the bottom of the moistened moss pole. Keep the pole upright and tuck it behind the plant just a bit. The totem can then be stabilized by lightly pressing the earth at the base.
Attaching the Plant to the Pole
It’s time to acquaint your plant with its new totem now. Some of your monstera’s stems may be longer and more strong than others, as you may have noticed. Several huge leaves are supported by these thicker stalks, and they may also be beginning to sprout some knobby aerial roots. The stems could potentially start to spread out from the pot like a vine as they develop horizontally. The more slender leaf stalks and their leaves will be allowed to fill in around the bottom once you attach these stems to the totem.
Bring the stem up against the moistened moss and fasten it gently yet securely with a piece of soft plant tie, twine, or cotton string to help it adhere to the totem. If the stem is long, bind it to the totem by tying it to it several times. Repeat this process with any other substantial stems, then take a step back to ensure the plant’s general form is to your liking. Your M. deliciosa will eventually use its aerial roots to cling to the moss and proceed to climb higher on its new support.
Care Tips
With one extra step, caring for a monster on a totem is just like caring for one without. Misting the moss on occasion is a smart idea to keep your monstera interested in its new support. The roots will continue to spread into the moss if the plant detects moisture there.
For routine maintenance, make sure the container drains effectively, let the top inch or two of soil a little amount of soil dry out between waterings, and set your plant where it receives lots of bright, indirect light. Additionally, take sure to turn your wandering plant every so often to keep things balanced if it tends to lean one way or the other while looking for the best source of light.
Some Plants Just Need a Little Guidance
Not just monsteras are helped by a little patient correction in the home. A moss totem is also helpful with other monster species, such as M. adansonii, as well as some philodendrons, like “Prince of Orange” and “Pink Princess.” Ask if you need help caring for any of your “wandering plant pals.” We are always happy to assist.
