Although repotting your plants may seem difficult, we have some advice to help you succeed.
First things first: repotting refers to replacing the soil or potting mix, not necessarily the planter that it is now in. The nutrients in new soil are new. This is fantastic news if you adore your present planter, but it’s also okay if you want to get a new one or your plant has clearly outgrown its existing container. Try to choose a planter that is no more than 2″ larger in diameter for tabletop planters and no more than 4″ larger in diameter for floor planters when choosing a new one. Your new container might just need to be an inch larger if you’re repotting a really tiny plant! The size of your plant’s new home is crucial because we tend to give it more water in larger planters. Small plant in large planter with loads of soil and water results in unintentional dying. You want to give your plant some additional room to expand in the coming months rather than drowning it in soil.
Repotting should be done on average every 12 to 18 months, depending on how quickly the plant is developing. Some slow-growing plants, like cactus, can live for years in the same pot with only a soil resupply. The best time to repot your houseplants is typically in the spring, at the beginning of the growing season.
If you notice one or more of these indicators, you’ll know it’s time to report:
1. The grow pot or planter’s drainage hole(s) are being penetrated by roots 2. The plant’s roots are almost pushing it out of the planter. 3. The plant’s growth is significantly slower than usual (different than winter dormancy) 4. The plant is quite top-heavy and is prone to falling over. 5. The potting soil dries out the plant faster than before, necessitating more frequent waterings. 6. The plant’s foliage is larger than its present planter by more than three times. 7. The plant or planter has a pronounced salt and mineral buildup 8. You haven’t repotted your plant in more than a year.
What you’ll need on hand is as follows:
Of course, whether it is a new or existing factory.
The container you’re using for planting (if reusing a container, make sure to thoroughly rinse the inside first)
new potting soil
If your planter does not have a drainage hole, use lava rocks or something similar.
If you’re touching a plant like a Ficus elastica that has unpleasant sap, wear gloves.
a water bottle, a sink faucet, or a watering can
a newspaper, sheet for pots, or surface that is simple to clean
1. Take the plant out of the pot or planter it is currently in. Your plant will slide out of its current container if you grip it firmly by the stems or leaves while turning it sideways and tapping the bottom of the container. With a few little tugs on the stems’ bases, you might need to assist it a little.
2. Take the roots out. Use your hands to gently loosen the plant’s roots. Make sure to keep the thicker roots at the base of the leaves and cut any extra-long threadlike roots. Unbind the roots as much as you can and give them a trim if your plant is root-bound (the roots are growing in very small circles around the base of the plant).
3. Get rid of the old potting soil Remove at least a third of the old potting soil that is encircling the plant’s roots. You should give your plant new potting soil or mix because as it grew, it may have consumed all or part of the nutrients in the old mixture.
4. Include fresh potting soil Fresh potting soil should be added to the empty planter, and it should be packed down to eliminate any air pockets. Before adding the potting mix, layer the bottom of the planter with lava rocks or something comparable (rocks, gravel, etc.) if it has a drainage hole. The idea is to carve out areas for the additional water to collect in and flow away from the roots of your plant.
5. Include a plant. Make sure your plant is centered before placing it on top of the newly added layer of soil in the planter. Then, pour extra potting soil all around the plant to secure it. You want the roots to have room to breathe, so avoid packing the planter with too much soil.
Water and pleasure. The potting soil should be evened out, then water well. It’s important to remember that a plant that has just been re-potted doesn’t require fertilizer.
Remove the plant from the current pot.
Take your plant now, tilt it sideways while holding the stems firmly, and tap the bottom of the container it is currently in until the plant slides out. With a few of mild tugs on the stems’ bases, you can assist it a little.
Gently unbind any loose roots.
If your plant has roots that are tightly circling its base, try to untangle them as much as you can and give them a trim. If you can’t finesse them apart, you could find yourself tearing them a little. Try to be as gentle as you can.
Add mix.
Around the plant, add fresh potting soil until it is stable (sitting upright). You want the roots to be able to breathe, so avoid packing the planter with too much soil. For larger planters, leave approximately an inch or more of room below the lip. Do not fill the pot with soil all the way to the top. Water will rush out the sides of the pot without ever getting a chance to soak in, making it impossible for you to water it adequately.
When ought houseplants to be replanted?
The majority of houseplants can thrive for years in the same container. However, some quickly expanding species, like philodendron or pothos, may overflow their container and require repotting every few years. When the roots of a plant start to protrude through the drainage holes, it is usually time for a new pot. If water flows straight through the pot and out the drainage holes whenever you add moisture, that is another warning indicator.
Of course, some plants, like orchids and snake plants, don’t mind small spaces, but even they eventually require a new location as their roots entwine.
In general, the spring and summer when the plant is actively growing are the optimum times to repot your houseplant. Although it’s best to do it at least three to four weeks before bringing the plant indoors for the winter, you can also transplant plants in the fall. Your plant should adjust to its new container while it is still enjoying its summer break.
Check the roots of the plant after gently removing it from the pot. It’s time for an upgrade if they are knotted, firmly encircling the interior of the pot, or if a lot of the dirt is disappearing. Choose a container that is an inch or two wider than the one your plant is now in.
Pick the new pot wisely. Clay (terra-cotta) pots have a lovely appearance but are permeable, causing the soil to dry up more quickly. They are ideal for plants like succulents, cactus, orchids, ponytail palms, and snake plants that prefer quick drainage. In order to prevent them from sucking the water out of the soil, it is best to soak them in water for a few hours before planting. Use plastic containers with tropical houseplants like ferns, African violets, anthuriums, and spathiphyllum because they retain soil moisture longer. However, regardless of the kind of pot you use, make sure it has a hole in the bottom to let extra water drain out. Use a pot that is approximately two inches wider than the one your plant is currently in.
Use a high-quality commercial potting soil made for indoor plants; some soil blends are even available for particular plant species, such cacti or African violets. Useless to utilize garden soil. The ideal soil should be fluffy and light, with plenty of sterilized organic matter and compost to help retain moisture. Cheap potting soil may be excessively heavy and retain too much moisture, so it’s not always a good deal.
Soil should be added to the pot until the plant’s crown (where the roots meet the stem) is at the same height as it was growing before. To remove air pockets, gently compact the dirt around the roots and water. After planting, include a saucer to collect runoff. At this time, don’t feed your plants. In fact, you might want to wait until early spring to fertilize if you are repotting in the fall. Additionally, remember that a lot of potting soils already contain fertilizer, so you shouldn’t worry too much about feeding your plants right immediately.
Can you move indoor plants?
Repotting your houseplant into a larger pot will become essential as it becomes bigger and the roots either start to grow through the drainage holes or become pot-bound.
How should a houseplant be prepared for a move?
Your house plants can travel for up to three days without needing any care if you properly follow our moving-plant recommendations.
BEFORE YOUR MOVE
To prepare your plants for relocating so they can withstand changes in their environment without withering or breaking, follow these instructions:
- three weeks before the actual move. Plants should be repotted from clay pots into equivalent-sized, shatterproof plastic containers.
- Two weeks before moving day. With your thumb and forefinger, pinch back younger growth on larger plants while you remove dead leaves, branches, and blossoms with scissors or gardening shears. Plants that have been pruned will be more manageable and transportable. After your move, it will also produce gorgeous, bushy, healthy plants. Never cut down ferns or succulents (e.g., cactus, jade plants, aloe).
- one week before the actual move. Verify plants for parasites and insects. Apply pesticides with caution and according to label instructions. Have a plan for donating or disposing of any pesticides before relocating since they are on our list of prohibited products.
- two days before the actual move. Regularly water your plants, being careful not to overwater. In cold weather, too much water can cause plants to freeze, while in warm weather, it can encourage the growth of fungi.
MOVING DAY
Pack your plants the night before or the morning of your relocation to get ready. Following are some moving plant packing tips:
- Wrap. To stop branches from breaking, wrap big plants in tissue paper or an old bed sheet.
- Position. A box should fit each pot tightly at the bottom. Use standard moving boxes, such as dish packs, that are offered by your Atlas mover.
- Pack. If required, lay paper around the pot’s base in the box to keep it in place. To allow plants to breathe, poke holes in the box’s sides and loosely fasten the lid.
- Label. Mark the top and sides of the boxes using a sharpie. This will lessen the chance of their accidently being loaded onto the moving truck.
- Control. Ensure that the inside of your car is at a comfortable temperature. Your plants might suffer from extreme cold or heat.
ONCE YOU’RE HOME
It’s crucial to restore your plants to the state they were in at your former residence once you’ve settled into your new one. This is how:
- Unpack. Plants should be unpacked as soon as feasible. To avoid breaking, remove the plants through the bottom of the box.
- Place. Repot plants in containers that are the same size as the ones you had before moving.
- Stabilize. Plants should not be moved until they have acclimated.
- Heal. Give your plant a few days to recover if it experiences transplant shock as a result of your transfer. Follow the advice in “Common Household Plants and How to Care for Them” if your plant still seems unwell.
To avoid breaking leaves and branches, remove the plants through the bottom of the box.
Your plants will transfer successfully if you plan ahead and pay close attention. They’ll be prepared to thrive in their new home, just like you.
When repotting, should old soil be removed?
Although repotting houseplants may seem like a straightforward process, there is always a chance that the plants won’t thrive in their new environment. Making sure the plant’s roots are free of old dirt can prevent transplant shock.
When repotting, removing the old soil from the roots will eliminate salt buildup and guarantee that the roots are surrounded by fresh soil that is rich in minerals and nutrients. Before repotting, exposing the roots will provide a chance for root sterilization to get rid of any unwanted fungus or disease.
Plants growing in containers need to be occasionally replanted to maintain their health. Both the right time to repot a plant and the right way to do it safely should be understood.
What type of soil is ideal for indoor plants?
Loose, well-drained soil is necessary for indoor plants, especially if they are exposed to indirect sunlight. Our best recommendation for indoor plants is Miracle-Gro Indoor Potting Mix. The formula with no bark or compost drains quickly. Additionally, it won’t retain water or draw gnats. Within days of using this soil, Home Depot customers report seeing an improvement in the health of their indoor plants.
- specially designed to repel gnats.
- contains coconut fiber, which effectively distributes and absorbs water.
How can you tell whether a plant needs to be repotted?
Unfortunately, there is no set rule for how often houseplants should be repotted. It varies based on the type of plant, its age, and the environmental factors in your home. Although timing might eventually vary, immature plants often require more frequent repotting than mature, established plants.
Checking to see if the roots are growing out of the pot’s drainage hole is one of the simplest ways to determine whether a plant needs to be repotted. If so, this is a sign that your plant needs a bigger pot because the roots have outgrown their current container. Another indication that your plant needs extra room to grow is if you start to see that its roots are progressively pushing it upward out of the pot.
While yellowing leaves and leaf loss can be symptoms of many various issues, they are also warning indicators that your plant may be rootbound. Both times, the plant starts to sacrifice foliage to conserve energy because there isn’t enough soil for the roots to support a robust, healthy plant. Before repotting, it’s crucial to make sure that your plant is not exhibiting these symptoms as a result of another problem, such as overwatering, underwatering, or a lack of light. Unfortunately, repotting a stressed plant can occasionally make its situation worse.