A fiddle leaf fig hardly ever blooms or bears fruit away from its natural habitat. However, we’ve provided a picture of the fruit’s appearance (right).
Instead of their ability to produce fruit, most owners appreciate these houseplants for their foliage and size.
Do fig trees grown inside bear fruit?
Why you wouldn’t want to is as follows: In the summer, the edible fig (Ficus carica) requires full sun, which is nearly impossible to provide indoors. The deciduous fig tree loses its leaves in the autumn and enters a dormant state for the winter, when it doesn’t require any sunlight at all. The majority of common fig trees grow too large, gangly, and untidy to make good houseplants. But for a few reasons that we’ll go over below, you can grow fig trees in containers.
Do fiddle-leaf figs always grow into trees?
The most frequent inquiry I have from readers is how to transform a fiddle leaf fig from bush to tree form ever since I published the article Growing and Pruning Your Fiddle Leaf Fig. This article will cover the topic in more detail and, hopefully, provide all the information you need.
I’ve studied and read about fiddle leaf figs for years, as well as grown and experimented with my own. I’m pleased to impart what I’ve discovered, especially given the prevalence of false information.
Will my FLF bush develop into a tree? Yes, it is the answer. FLFs are so adaptable that they can grow to be bushy or be trained to resemble a tree. Making sure that your FLF turns out to look like a tree depends on a few different aspects. First of all, have patience—growing a tree takes time! You might have discovered a smaller, bushier FLF to bring home. Younger, smaller plants are less expensive and less risky to purchase if you’re unsure of your ability to care for them. If it doesn’t stay in your house, the risk is reduced. I occasionally like to bring home smaller plants because you can then explore and mould the plant to your preferences.
Fiddle Leaf Figs have three primary characteristics that distinguish them from bushes: height, one naked trunk, and branches. So let’s examine each one separately:
Height
Fiddle Leaf Figs don’t develop as quickly as other plants, but you can hasten their growth by giving them the correct environment. Three things affect growth: light, soil, and water. It could take some time before you fully comprehend what your FLF wants. Keep a watch on it to see how it reacts to changes in the amount of water and light that it requires. For maximum growth, FLFs require well-draining soil and a decent fertilizer (this one is ideal for FLFs). If you’ve never used fertilizer before, read these suggestions first. Change anything if your FLF isn’t responding well to what you’re doing. To get it right, a little trial and error might be necessary. See my post on growing and trimming your Fiddle Leaf Fig for additional general advice.
Branches
When your FLF reaches the height at which you would like it to branch, you can trim, pinch out, or try notching the tip to promote branching. The plant is informed by pruning the tip that its primary growth tip has been impeded and that it must produce additional shoots in order to survive. If you have a clear concept of where you want a branch to develop, you might want to employ notching, which has a similar effect.
It might seem intimidating to notch a fiddle leaf fig, but it shouldn’t be. If your FLF has a thinner trunk, use a pair of clean, sharp cutters or a razor. Cut the trunk at an angle, about 1/3 deep and halfway across. Above a leaf node, carry out this. Some milky white sap will drip if you’ve done it correctly. Go over the same area once more if the bud below shows no signs of change within a week.
Similar to trimming undesired branches, only be mindful of the impact it will have on the plant and avoid leaving it too bare.
Trunk
The internet is replete of amusing images of the tree-form FLF with a naked, waif-like trunk, in contrast to the bush-form FLF, which typically has its trunk covered in leaves. The lower leaves may naturally fall off after a few years. If you can’t wait that long, pulling off the lower leaves will give you a bare trunk faster, but they won’t grow back. As a final resort, be prepared to prune these leaves. (Of these three parts, the trunk should receive the most attention.)
Because trees are top-heavy and more prone to bending or toppling, the lower leaves support the trunk and aid in its strength development. Be careful to avoid stripping your FLF of too many leaves at once. Your plant’s chances of being unwell or dying increase if there aren’t enough leaves for it to absorb the nutrients it requires from sunshine. To learn how to strengthen a weak or leaning trunk, read my complete advice here.
Multiple trunks: It’s possible that your FLF is actually more than one plant if it appears to have more than one trunk in its container. Try to determine whether they are connected (via a low fork) or if they are independent trunks. When repotting, you should be able to tell if they are distinct or even if you’re not sure. Replant the roots after carefully separating them in several pots.
By following the above instructions, your FLF should eventually start to resemble a tree. Being able to handle this process on your own is enjoyable and really rewarding! Additionally, I’ve discovered that it has given me more information on how to care for them, and I now feel certain that I could get FLF of any size and shape surviving!
Repotting, trimming, and fertilizing should all be done during a FLF’s natural growth seasons of spring and summer to give the plant the most chance to adapt to the changes and respond in a positive way. For more information on fiddle leaf figs, see these posts.
Do you still have concerns about growing a fiddle leaf fig from a bush to a tree? If this was useful or if you have any other questions, please let me know in the comments!
Do fig trees produce figs?
Figs are a delectable treat that grow best in warm settings but may also be cultivated with with extra care in more temperate areas. How to plant a fig tree in your garden is provided here!
About Figs
Figs can be grown in colder climates if they are properly protected from freezing temperatures or cultivated in containers and kept indoors, but they fare best in regions with long, hot summers (Zone 8 and warmer).
Because its blossoms don’t need to be pollinated in order to produce figs, the common fig tree (Ficus carica) is the most well-liked kind of fig for backyard gardeners. The common fig tree comes in a wide range of types, including hardy cultivars that can be planted outdoors in slightly cooler climes (Zones 6 and 7). Other fig species are difficult for home gardeners to raise because they either don’t yield edible fruit or have very specific pollination needs (such needing to be pollinated by a specific kind of wasp).
Figs can be consumed straight from the tree, preserved, or cooked with. Remember that figs stop ripening after they are picked, so make sure to harvest them at the proper time!
Planting Fig Trees
- Figs can be successfully planted outdoors in USDA Zones 8 and higher. Make sure to select a hardy fig type if you live in an area where winter temperatures regularly drop below 10F (-12C). Winter protection could also be necessary. As an alternative, figs can be cultivated in sizable containers and stored indoors over the winter.
- When the tree is dormant, in the early spring or late fall, plant fig trees outdoors.
- Grow fig trees in containers in earth-based potting soil and supplement with fine bark chips for better drainage. In the summer, keep the tree in direct sunlight. Make careful to water the tree gently and add a high-nitrogen fertilizer every four weeks in the spring and summer. Move the tree indoors for the winter and maintain the soil moist.
- Plant the tree in full sun in the spring or early fall for outdoor fig trees. Fig trees may flourish in a variety of soil types as long as it is well-drained and rich in organic matter. (Find out more information about organic soil amendments.)
- Fig trees should be placed at least 20 feet from any structures or other trees.
- If given the chance, fig trees will have deep roots, so keep that in mind when selecting a planting location.
- To bury tree seedlings produced in containers:
- Laying the root ball on its side and cutting through the roots with shears will allow you to remove the plant from the pot and cut any circling roots.
- Create a hole that is somewhat broader and deeper than the roots’ spread. In the center of the hole, place the tree on top of a small mound of earth. Make sure the roots are spread out from the trunk without being overly bent.
- Place the tree in the ground 2 to 4 inches deeper than it was in the pot (check the color of the trunk to see the original soil line).
Caring for Fig Trees
- To aid in their establishment, young fig trees should receive regular watering. Water fig trees thoroughly at least once a week in dry places.
- The majority of fig trees do not need regular fertilizing unless they are planted in containers. However, you can add 1/2 to 1 pound of nitrogen supplement if your fig tree doesn’t grow much (less than 12 inches in one growing season). Divide the nitrogen throughout three to four feedings. Apply the nitrogen starting in late winter and stopping in July.
- To assist prevent weeds and preserve moisture for the tree’s roots, you can also spread a layer of mulch around the tree.
- Pruning fig trees is not very necessary. To promote growth during the dormant season, make sure to cut off any branches that are dead, sick, or weak.
- If figs are growing in great quantities, you can thin the fruit to promote the development of larger figs.
- Bring container-grown fig trees indoors for the winter in colder climates. Maintain soil moisture.
- Outdoor-planted fig trees may wither and die if the winters in your area are especially chilly. The tree’s underground portion is probably undamaged if it is a hardy type. While the tree is still dormant, remove all dead wood and keep an eye out for fresh growth in the spring.
- “Brown Turkey,” which yields a lot of medium-sized to giant figs. Although this kind performs best in warm climates, it can also tolerate cooler temperatures to some extent.
- Small, sweet, purple figs called “Celeste” are produced. One of the most winter-resistant kinds is this one.
- The winter-resistant variety “Hardy Chicago” yields medium-sized, purple figs.
- King is a plant that does well in the northwest’s milder climate. It yields figs that are medium in size and sweet and flavorful.
- “Kadota,” which bears little to medium-sized fruit with vigor. It is the fig that is most frequently canned, and its figs are rich and delicious.
Harvesting Figs
- Figs shouldn’t be picked before they are completely ripe since they won’t continue to mature off the tree. The figs ought to have an even hue and feel slightly supple to the touch.
- Because figs are a favorite food of birds and squirrels, you might need to spend money on bird netting to safeguard your crop.
- Wear gloves or long sleeves when gathering figs because the fig tree’s sap might harm your skin.
- Figs lose their flavor quickly. Figs can be kept for two to three days in the refrigerator.
- You can freeze whole figs for long-term storage and use at a later time. The figs can also be dried as a storage option. Also possible is home canning of figs.
- Potassium, dietary fiber, and calcium are all abundant in figs.
Fiddle-leaf figs reproduce in what way?
Fiddle-leaf figs can be multiplied using a few various techniques, including air layering and stem or leaf cuttings, however it takes some time.
With the former, you can grow new miniature plants for your collection, as gifts, or to make use of the leaves and branches you’ve cut off. When trying to save and repot a fiddle-leaf fig that has experienced leaf drop and all of its growth has gathered at the top of a tall, barren stem, the later procedure is helpful. Here are the steps for each of these alternatives.
What gender are fiddle leaf figs?
The fiddle leaf fig slowly grows up to 40 feet tall with a canopy that is 20 to 30 feet wide. The huge foliage has a rough appearance. The leaves are big, waxy, and may have wavy edges. They are a medium to dark glossy green color. The leaf blade is oval and shaped like a violin, with a base that is slightly narrower than the middle and tip that is larger. They never lose their leaves and only do so when exposed to frost or dryness. At the apex of branches, flowers appear in the spring or summer and can be either male or female. Only female flowers give rise to spherical, meaty, tiny fruits that, when ripe, fall to the ground.
- Tropical western and central Africa is the original home of the fiddle leaf fig.
- Only female flowers give rise to spherical, meaty, tiny fruits that, when ripe, fall to the ground.
How can I tell whether my fig tree is a male or a female?
A male caprifig can be identified by its five stamens, which protrude from the fruit’s bottom and are encircled by petalless, outward-facing bracts made of tissue that resembles the fruit skin. On female trees, stamens do not emerge from the synconium.
How can a fiddle fig become a tree?
When notching, a precise cut is made above a node as opposed to clipping the top sprout. Only if you don’t want to lower the height of your fiddle leaf would I advise employing notching over pruning, which is a sophisticated method.
Another way that notching functions is by obstructing the hormones that control growth—again, auxin. The impact is gone as the wound calluses over, and hormones will start to flow once more.
How to notch your fiddle leaf fig
First, some dexterity is needed for notching. If the incision is made too deeply, you run the danger of amputating the limb. (But hey, even if you accidently cut off the head of your ficus, there will still be branching.) If you make the cut too shallow, it might not heal.
It doesn’t yield reliable outcomes like pruning. Though it can result in less-than-ideal gaps in your fiddle leaf branches, think about cutting a few more notches than you desire branches. (Again, pruning doesn’t have a problem here because it works best on the nodes closest to the incision.)
It works better on a woody stem than on more recent, softer green growth.
This is how you do it:
Make an incision above a node using a clean, sharp blade. I applied a brand-new X-Acto knife blade’s tip edge. (The kind where the old blades can be removed with a snap.) I was able to secure the internode because of this. If using pruners makes you more comfortable, do so.
Make an incision that goes 1/3 of the way around the stem and no deeper than 1/3 of the stem just ABOVE the node. There will be some latex sap, which you should brush away in case any children or animals decide to taste it because it does like milk.
Making the incision above the node as opposed to below it prevents auxin, a hormone that controls growth, from functioning properly. By switching the flow of carbohydrates from vegetative development to reproductive growth when a node is cut just below it, blooming and fruiting are encouraged (flowers & fruit).
Leave it alone to recover, and maybe after a few weeks you’ll have buds that develop into branches. As with pruning, your chances of success will increase if you attempt this during your fiddle leaf’s prime growing season, which is in the spring or early summer.
One last piece of advice: wait to remove leaves from the trunk of your fiddle leaf until the new branches have begun to grow. Your plant should be as robust as possible because those leaves aid in the development of the new lateral buds.
So that’s pretty much it. Your single-stalk fiddle leaf can easily be transformed into a full, tree-like canopy. Waiting for those branches to appear after you’ve finished your trimming or notching just requires patience.
How do you feel? Do you favor single-stalked fiddle leafs grown singly, in clusters, or as a single-trunked tree?
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