A few days before I did the repotting, I watered mine. I make sure to water my indoor plants two to four days in advance because a dry plant is stressed. If I water the day of, I find that the soil may be too wet, making the process a little bit messier than it already is.
I turned the Rhaphidophora over and gently pressed on the grow pot to get it out of the pot. If the root ball is proving hard to loosen, you might need to run a knife along its edge. If the root ball is tight and the plant won’t pull out, I’ve also chopped grow pots.
In order to slightly pull the roots apart, you may need to massage the roots. This plant’s roots weren’t at all constrictive, so all it took was a light massage to get the job done.
Fill the pot with enough mix so that the top of the root ball is about 1/2 below the rim. To determine how much mix I needed to add, I placed the root ball within the six-pot container.
Potting soil and additives should be used to fill in the area around the root ball. To help the plant maintain its upright posture, I tamped the earth down between the root ball and the pot’s sidewalls.
I inserted the two moss-covered posts and used jute rope to secure the stems. The above video’s last minutes and the FAQs below have more information on staking.
I managed to fit the bamboo hoop into the pot, as you can see in the thumbnail and lead image. It will provide something for the new growth that is emerging from the bottom to ascend.
When should my little Monstera be repotted?
This year, Rhaphidophora tetrasperma has gained enormous popularity, and it may be mostly due to how spectacular it seems and how simple it is to grow; this is no diva plant! This plant is adaptable and content in a variety of situations, as evidenced by the fact that it may be found in a variety of rainforest conditions in its native habitats of Malaysia and Thailand.
Please be advised that the plant could be dangerous if consumed; keep both children and animals away from it.
Common Symptoms
- If your plant has scorched or pale leaves, it is receiving too much direct sun. Move to an area that is more shaded because mini monsteras have less of a waxy covering than its namesake (the monstera deliciosa).
- Spots or patches on leaves: There may be a few causes, but over-watering is probably to blame if the spots are brown and mushy. The optimum water to use is always tepid (room temperature), as lighter colored areas can indicate shock from cold water.
- Brown margins on the foliage: Several problems can show up in this way. If your houseplant is close to a heat source, air conditioner, or draught, dry air is the most frequent problem. Another potential issue is inconsistent irrigation.
- New leaves are tiny. To maintain the health of your rhaphidophora tetrasperma as a climbing houseplant, you may need to cut the vines when they become very long. It’s possible that your plant isn’t receiving enough light or humidity if the leaves are consistently small.
- No leaf splits: This plant’s fenestrations, or splits in the leaves, are one of its most distinctive characteristics and what gives it a monstera deliciosa-like appearance. Move to a brighter location or install a support if there are poor lighting conditions or no poles or trellises to provide support.
- Older leaves will naturally turn yellow and fall off as they progress through the life cycle. But if many leaves fall off at once, it can be from prolonged overwatering or chilly drafts.
- Pests: Red spider mite, thrips, and aphids are some to be especially wary of in warm, dry circumstances. Incorrect care and a lack of humidity are the major reasons pests may arise. The greatest defense against pests is to maintain high humidity, however neem oil or insecticidal soap can be used to treat this houseplant if bugs are already present. Keep the plant isolated and repeat weekly until entirely pest-free.
Care Instructions
- Origin: Native to Malaysia and Thailand in both wet and dry jungle environments.
- 1.5 meters tall with a 1-meter span.
- Light: Bright, filtered indirect light is ideal, while it can also be used in lower light levels. Avoid direct sunlight, which can burn the leaves.
- Water: Use room-temperature water to keep the soil moist, but don’t let the plant sit in it. During the dormant seasons of fall and winter, let the plant dry out in between waterings because too much water can stress it out.
- Moderate humidity and frequent misting are advantageous. Your Rhaphidophora tetrasperma will grow healthier and have larger leaves if the humidity is at a good level.
- Temperature: The tiny monstera will thrive in temperatures between 12 and 27 degrees Celsius. Avoid sharp temperature dips, and be cautious with draughts and open windows.
- The optimal soil for this houseplant is a free-draining organic potting mix that also lets the roots to breathe. Coco chips or orchid bark work just as well.
- During the growing season, Rhaphidophora tetrasperma receive frequent fertilization—twice a month (Spring and Summer). Due to its unusually quick growth, use a balanced fertilizer at half the recommended dilution level for this plant. To prevent fertilizer from scorching the roots, moisten the potting medium moderately if it is extremely dry before feeding.
- Repotting: Because of how quickly these plants develop, you should be prepared to conduct some occasional repotting. Early spring is the best time to do this because the plant has a period of active growth ahead of it. Repotting is required when roots start to “circle” around the nursery pot’s base. At this point, just a few centimeters should be added to the pot’s size.
- Pruning: Mini monsteras like having their stems cut down when they become especially long. Trim a few centimeters below a leaf node that preferably has an aerial root underneath it with a sterile blade (bobbly bit that looks like a root forming). then begin to spread! (See under)
- There are two ways this can happen. The cuttings can either be planted straight in coco chips or left to root in water for a few weeks (for lots of aeration). If the plant is in water, don’t pot it on until the roots are a few centimeters long. Make sure to water frequently if you are cooking directly into coco chips.
Do miniature Monsteras prefer little pots?
Mini Monsteras love bright, filtered light, therefore they should be situated close to a window with lots of sunlight. Its leaves get their distinctive heart shape and deep splits as a result of receiving just the proper amount of sunlight. Although this plant can tolerate low light levels, it won’t do its well-known leaf-splitting or climbing stunts and will instead grow slowly and have lesser foliage. On the other side, too much sun might make your leaves dry out and turn yellow. Our best piece of advise is to give your new friend access to bright shade for the majority of the day and some early sunlight.
Like the majority of other aroids and mankind, the Rhaphidophora tetrasperma does not like extremes in temperature. Temperatures between 55 and 85 °F are ideal for these plants. Avoid heating or air conditioning vents in the summer or winter to lessen any stress on your shiny climber.
In the warmer months, you may move your RT outside to create a tropical atmosphere on your patio or balcony. When the temperature drops at night, they can be very laid-back, but you should bring them inside if it dips below 55F. Always make sure this plant is receiving the right light wherever you decide to display it because it is thought to grow quickly!
Letting Your Mini Monstera Climb
Did we already explain that the Rhaphidophora tetrasperma enjoys climbing? Of course we have; it’s just one of their many appealing qualities that makes them so well-liked by lovers of indoor plants. Our Mini Monstera is pre-trained to climb using its totem, and it will do so as it becomes bigger by using its aerial roots. Find literally whatever you can to fasten new growth to the totem when it emerges from the plant’s base. Examples include nursery tape, zip ties, and handcuffs—okay, maybe not handcuffs, but you get the idea. Just be careful not to detract from the look by making it as unnoticeable as you can. Always keep in mind that your RT will create more new, climbing growth the more sunlight it receives!
Although some people may adore the way RTs spill out of hanging baskets, permitting them to hang will really lead to uneven growth and smaller leaves devoid of the distinctive splits. They will live a happy and healthy life if you keep them as floor plants and let them climb whatever structure you want. They will also thank you by creating an exotic atmosphere to any room you choose.
We usually advise keeping your new plant acquisitions in the grow pot they came in; all you need to do is pick a slightly larger pot that matches your decor and set the grow pot inside. However, because the Mini Monstera grows quickly, the day can come when its roots can no longer go beyond the confines of its original grow container. If it appears that up-potting is required, start by locating a larger grow pot and some indoor planting soil. Remove your Mini Monstera from its current grow pot with care, then fill the bottom few inches of the new grow pot with dirt. Place the root ball on top of the fresh soil after that, then add a little more soil on top of that until the root ball is completely covered. Voila! Give it a misty shower. Your miniature climber is prepared to embark on new journeys.
Because these plants have a slight poisonous effect on animals, make sure the area where you choose to let them climb is out of your pet’s reach. Mini Monstera plants are actually extremely simple to cultivate; all they need to become tall and beautiful is the correct amount of light, a considerate feeding and watering schedule, and plenty of love.
How is a tiny monstera replanted?
However, I advise using our premium well-draining potting soil instead of regular indoor potting soil.
With potting mix, fill the pot about 1/41/3 of the way. At this point, if you’re adding a new moss pole, you can bury it in the ground.
Step 4: Remove the monstera from its old pot (you might need help).
Turn the pot over and gently pry the monstera plant out of it to remove it from the container. Try shaking the pot a little bit if it still won’t budge, but don’t tug on the plant. Whatever you do, avoid trying to remove it from the pot immediately! That is an effective approach to break leaves, stems, and roots.
You might wish to enlist the aid of a friend (or perhaps two) if your monstera is particularly enormous. The best method for handling huge plants is to have one person hold the pot while the other supports the roots as they emerge. The top of the plant can be supported during the procedure by a third person if necessary.
Hold onto the moss pole while you unpot your monstera if it has one and it is securely attached.
Step 5: Put the plant in the new pot.
Place the plant in a circle around any newly added stakes. If the roots are too dense for this, carefully dig a hole that is wide enough and deep enough to fit the pole. If required, use twist ties to secure your plant to the stake.
If you’re moving a monstera that still has its original moss pole, insert the roots and pole into the pot with care. Holding the plant over the new pot, staking the pole securely into the container, and then carefully lowering the roots all work well occasionally.
More potting soil should be added to the spaces around the roots. It should be quite filled, but not overly so. Leave about 2 inches of space at the top before adding another layer of potting soil.
Step 6: Water well.
Fill the drainage holes with filtered water as you go. Add more potting soil if necessary as the dirt may sink a little.
Your monstera should acclimate to its new container fast, but a little droopiness is expected. Simply relocate it to the same location with plenty of direct and indirect sunshine and postpone fertilizing for about 4 weeks.
Is a moss pole necessary for a small Monstera?
The little monstera (Rhaphidophora tetrasperma), so named for its striking resemblance to the majestic Monstera deliciosa, is actually not a monstera but a member of the separate genus Rhaphidophora. Rhaphidophora plants are distantly related to those in the Monstera genus since they both come from tropical parts of Africa and Asia and are members of the Araceae family. This genus has about 100 different species. Like its Monstera relatives, the mini monstera thrives in indoor environments and makes a great houseplant.
As their common name suggests, this unusual fenestrated plant is an excellent choice if you’re trying to expand your collection of little vining plants. The mini monstera typically reaches a height of 6 to 8 feet indoors, with leaves that are 6 to 8 inches long. As a climbing plant in its natural habitat, the tiny monstera will flourish if given a support to climb on inside, like a moss pole or trellis.
What kind of soil prefers Tetrasperma?
Care for Rhaphidophora tetrasperma is quite simple. This beautiful plant is ideal for adding life to your living area. But for it to prosper, it does need a few things.
Light & Temperature
The best lighting for your Rhaphidophora tetrasperma is bright, indirect light. Its leaves are shaped to take full use of the local ambient light. Even though it can’t stand a lot of direct sunshine, intense indirect lighting is similar to what it would experience in the wild. Use a 20–40% shade cloth to block some of the harsher rays and soften the sunshine if there isn’t a good outdoor location that provides the necessary lighting.
Indoor growers should make sure it receives adequate lighting as well. Avoid the sun’s direct rays since they could burn the fragile foliage. For this plant, windows with an eastern exposure frequently offer a sufficient amount of light, and a grow lamp can supplement the ambient lighting. Avoid low light levels because they will stunt the plant’s growth and diminish the amount of green leaves.
The ideal range is between 55 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Although it can tolerate a little bit of cooler weather, it is not at all frost-resistant. It may be cultivated in zones 9b through 12, but zone 11 is where it thrives. If the temperature falls below 55 degrees, it should be brought inside for zones 9b–10. Wherever you put it, make sure there is enough of bright indirect light!
Water & Humidity
These plants need moisture that is constant and even. They prefer constant, steady wetness but cannot survive in muddy, wet circumstances. Before watering, it is best to test the soil with the tip of your finger to determine if it still feels damp. If it does, set the pot aside for the time being and examine it again the following day. Water sparingly as needed to maintain a constant moisture level.
You won’t need to water as frequently in the fall and winter as you will in the spring and summer. These plants will require more water when they are actively growing. During these times, check the soil in your pot every day!
Rhaphidophora tetrasperma and other tropical plants prefer an area where the relative humidity is a little greater than normal. Aim for a humidity level of 50 to 60 percent immediately surrounding the plant. Put your pot on top of a pebble tray with water halfway up the stones, or use a humidifier. Wherever your plant needs more humidity, evaporation will deliver it.
Soil
This plant does best in loamy, well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Add some orchid bark or peat moss to increase drainage while retaining some moisture. Perlite can help with drainage as well. Refrain from using soils that become waterlogged or are very sandy. For your plants, a pH range of 6.0 to 6.5 should be suitable.
Fertilizer
It is preferable to use a balanced, superior fertilizer without urea or other harsher chemicals. Due to their sensitive roots, rhaphidophora plants are vulnerable to fertilizer burn. To lessen the risk of burning, choose a balanced organic fertilizer with a delayed release.
There are several advice for this plant, but they all agree on one thing: it benefits from routine fertilizer while it is actively growing. For liquid chemical fertilizers that have been significantly diluted, a biweekly schedule works well. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for slow-release organic fertilizers, but don’t use too much.
Repotting
This plant prefers to have a lot of space for root growth. Make sure the pot you use to repot it is deep. Assume that a full-sized specimen will require a pot with a minimum diameter of 10, however it may eventually grow to a width of 20. Select a pot that is at least 10 inches deep and has a width that is slightly wider than your current one.
Be gentle when repotting the plant. Dust the old soil from the roots by removing it from the pot. Look for signs of root rot and cut away any that have developed with a clean knife or pruning snips, sterilizing your tools again in between cuts. Use your prepared and readily available potting mix to repot the plant at the same depth as before.
Pruning/Training
For this plant, training as well as pruning are crucial. Because rhaphidophora tetrasperma loves to climb, it’s crucial to provide a firm trellis or stout stakes. You may help the plant’s aerial roots attach to the support you’ve given them as they grow by using strips of soft fabric (old t-shirt material works great) or a large piece of plastic plant support tape.
The main purposes of pruning are to eliminate diseased or pest-damaged material and to maintain a particular size. Additionally, it can be used to stop the growth of plants that get lanky from having too little light reach one side of them. Cut off any extra growth using sharp scissors, but avoid removing too much of the plant at once. Up to a 25% reduction is acceptable, but after that, your plant could suffer harm.
Propagation
The spread of Rhaphidophora tetrasperma is remarkably simple. Choose cuttings that are healthy and have at least a few leaf nodes. Place your cuttings in a glass of water or potting soil that has been lightly moistened. Verify that the lowest leaf node is situated below the surface. From there, roots will start to grow.
If you’re using water, replace it at least once day with fresh. Your cuttings can be placed in potting soil once the roots are at least an inch or two long. Keep the cutting alive with ones that were started directly in the mix, wait at least a month, and then very gently tug on it to check for resistance. If there are, you can treat it as a new plant because roots have grown.