African violets (Saintpaulia ionantha), which have fuzzy foliage and cheerful flowers, give container gardens a year-round boost of color. Although they can thrive in a protected location outside in USDA plant hardiness zones 11 and 12, they are extremely cold sensitive and must be cultivated indoors in most climates.
The multiplication of African violets can be done in a variety of ways, including division and cuttings. The plants frequently produce numerous crowns that can be divided and used to grow new plants. More quickly than other methods, division propagation produces mature African violet plants. To ensure success, they must be handled carefully as they are prone to damage.
How should an African violet cutting be taken?
The most common technique of propagating African violets is via leaf cuttings since it is both simple and effective. This project should be completed in the spring. Take a healthy leaf and its stem from the plant’s base using a sterilized knife or pair of scissors. Reduce the stem to roughly 1-1.5 inches in length (2.5-3.8 cm.).
Consider dipping the stem’s tip into some rooting hormone. Put the cutting in a hole dug in potting soil that is one inch (2.5 cm) deep. Water the area surrounding it thoroughly with lukewarm water while pressing the soil firmly.
By covering the pot with a plastic bag and fastening it with a rubber band, you can give your cutting a little greenhouse atmosphere. Just be sure to occasionally let the cutting have some fresh air. Keep the soil in the pot just moist and place it somewhere sunny.
Usually, roots start to grow after 3 to 4 weeks. In 6 to 8 weeks, new, little plants typically develop leaves. At the base of the cutting, many plants ought to sprout. Carefully pluck or chop away the young, little plants to separate them. You will receive a brand-new plant from each of them.
How much should I prune my African violet?
Even though they are a little dated, African violets remain one of the most common indoor blooming plants. They tuck themselves into any somewhat bright corner of the house with their gently furred leaves, brilliantly colored blossoms, and small size. African violet trimming is one of the simplest tasks that aids the plant in reaching its full potential. This is a rather easy operation that only requires a little finesse and doesn’t require any great expertise or timing.
It is simple to picture a tree or shrub with some large bladed cutting tools when we talk about pruning. The trimming of African violets, whose fragile stems react nicely to lighter methods, has nothing to do with these tools. All you need is a pair of scissors with a fine tip or some reasonably useful fingernails.
The sole purpose of cutting back an African violet is to get rid of any damaged or dead leaves and spent petals. It is only a beauty routine that gives new growth access to more light and air. African violets are unlike many other types of plants in that they can be pruned at any time of the year.
Are African violets tolerant of root binding?
Respected Master Gardener: Although it keeps growing taller and leaning to one side, my African violet is blossoming. Dare I repot it?
Reply: Yes! Because they require less maintenance and light than many other plants, African violets (Saintpaulia ionantha) have long been a favored indoor plant. Violets are available in a wide variety of hues, as well as various leaf and foliage colors and sizes, from tiny to enormous. They will need to be repotted, nevertheless, if they have a bright place, are well-fed, and receive careful watering. African violets should not simply be moved into a larger container because they prefer to be root-bound and frequently won’t flower until they are. It’s time to perform some surgery if your plant is beginning to resemble a fuzzy version of a palm tree with a barren stalk and all the leaves at the top. Any baby plants you find should be carefully clipped off and rooted in little pots. It takes a few weeks, but it’s always good to have extras to enjoy or trade. Save a few healthy bottom leaves to root in water or moist vermiculite. Cut the stem of the main plant just below the first set of desired leaves. With a gentle scrape of your knife, you can initiate the root-producing process on the stem. A sprinkle of rooting hormone would also be beneficial. After that, plant the entire thing in brand-new African violet potting soil and give it a good watering, making sure to allow any extra water drain. Keep the soil damp but not drenched. It is advised to use plastic or ceramic pots with good drainage. Salts build up along the top rim of clay pots because they dry out too soon. When your plant starts producing new leaves once more, start fertilizing with a very small amount of fertilizer every time you water. Remove faded flowers, keep water off the leaves, and occasionally brush them with a soft brush to remove dust. In order to prevent root rot, water carefully from the top or the bottom, making sure there is no stagnant water. Every time you water, turn the pot a little to prevent the plant from leaning toward the light.
Answer: Only seasoned gardeners are aware of this code! Zone 3 is actually a guide to assist gardeners in determining what should endure our winter temperatures. Known as the USDA Hardiness Zone Map in full (
), using the typical winter low, zones are displayed in 5-degree increments, corresponding to 3a and 3b. The average of the lowest temperature, not the low temps on average. Since Brainerd reached 33 below zero this week, let’s hope that’s the lowest we go this winter before averaging that number with previous winters. That serves as our data point for the winter of 2021–2022, even if the remainder of the season is kind to us. The good news is that we have a lot more protection against exposed plants freezing thanks to our deep covering of snow. Just keep in mind that the hardiness zone numbers are only guidelines and not strict laws. As we demonstrated last week, we are probably only safe buying Zone 3b plants because Minnesota no longer shows any Zone 2 (40 to 50 degrees below zero), southern parts of the state have become Zone 5a (15 to 20 degrees below zero), and Brainerd is almost considered Zone 4a (25 to 30 degrees below zero) (30 to 35 degrees below zero). Remember that your yard can include covered places where the temperatures aren’t quite as low, or you might be a gambler and want to take a chance on planting that Zone 4 or 5 plant. With a little extra care, my Zone 5 roses have endured for many years. Until the ground freezes, keep the roots moist. You can also add more mulch. Pay close attention while purchasing perennials from seed catalogs. The country as a whole refers to perennials, but we frequently have to plant them up here as annuals.
Respected Master Gardener: Some companies including the hospital use a lot of salt to thaw their pavements. We should reduce our use because the lake and river discharge is poor.
Excellent inquiry, answered. Because there is currently no simple way to remove it, the high amounts of chloride in our rivers are essentially permanent. Five litres of water are permanently contaminated by one teaspoon of salt. The majority of us have observed what occurs in our yards when the snow plow grinds up salt on the margins along the road or when the grass doesn’t grow well next to our sidewalks in the spring. Fish and other aquatic species are badly impacted. On slippery walkways, use sand, clay kitty litter, or chicken grit to add some traction. Use just enough salta coffee mug for ten patches of the sidewalk! Keep salt from running into the gutter or the grass by sweeping it up off of dry pavement. When sidewalks are shoveled, the wind and sun will usually keep them clear without the need for salt.
Respected Master Gardener: Can I try any odd flowering houseplants than the normal ones?
Answer: The following are three unusual flowering houseplants, albeit availability may be a problem. One of the most exotic and simple to grow potted plants is the bird of paradise, a relative of the banana. In addition to its beautiful fans of blue-green leaves, which are attractive year-round, mature plants also send up stalks topped with interesting bird-like flowers in the warm seasons. These flowers have the colors peacock blue and golden orange. A lily family member called clivia is more unique than an amaryllis and easier to grow than an orchid. It has thick clusters of orange flowers that emerge against a backdrop of leathery, black, evergreen foliage. There are several yellow cultivars, but they are rather pricey and hard to find. Another choice is a zebra plant. When not in bloom, it is not only a lovely houseplant thanks to its dark leaves with eye-catching, light-colored veins, but it also produces spikes of long-lasting waxy bright yellow flowers. Due to their need for high humidity and consistent watering, zebra plants do have a reputation for being fairly challenging to grow.
Can an African violet be started from a cutting?
Leaf cuttings are a simple way to multiply African violets. Cut off a portion of a firm, healthy leaf using a sharp knife. Keep the petiole, or leaf stem, 1 to 112 inches from the leaf blade. Vermiculite and coarse sand mixed 50:50 with moisture should be placed in a pot. Each leaf cutting’s petiole should be inserted into the rooting medium at a 45-degree angle. Each leaf cutting’s petiole should be firmly encircled by the rooting medium.
Once all of the cuttings have been placed, moisten the rooting media and let it drain for a while. Next, put a transparent plastic bag over the clippings. Use tape or a rubber band to attach the plastic bag to the pot. The leaf cuttings’ water loss is significantly reduced by the contained habitat, which also keeps them from withering and dying before they have a chance to take root. Place the pot in a well-lit area. Normal root formation takes three to four weeks. In six to eight weeks, new plants typically sprout leaves.
At the base of each petiole, many plants typically emerge. Carefully pluck or cut apart the plants to separate them. Individualize plant care by potting each one into a container with a well-drained potting mix.
Can a leaf be used to start an African violet?
African violets may be grown from leaves fairly readily. Even novice growers can easily grow more plants and increase their collection.
Step 1: Trim and remove the leaf. Take a new leaf off the plant you want to multiply. The ideal leaf to utilize is mature; nevertheless, avoid using an old, harsh leaf. Trim the leaf blade’s top with a razor or a sharp knife. Although this step is not required, it will speed up the growth of the leaf’s roots and plantlets once it has rooted and will prevent the leaf from expanding on its own.
2. Cut the leaf petiole.
View the image on the right. Cut the petiole (also known as the leaf stem) at a 45-degree angle with the cut side facing up, to a length of about 1/2. Cutting at an angle will promote the growth of additional roots and plantlets, and they will more likely show up in front of the rooted leaf as opposed to being tucked under or behind it.
Root the leaf cutting in step three.
View the image on the left. Your rooting medium should be poured into a tiny pot. This mixture ought to be extremely airy and permeable. One part Pro-Mix (a soil-free peat and perlite mix) and three parts coarse vermiculite make up our rooting mixture. Any combination, at the very least, is allowed (some growers use only vermiculite or mix with perlite). You should moisten the mixture (not too soggy, or the leaf will rot). Utilize a “swizzle stick” to create a small hole in the mixture. In this hole, insert the leaf petiole up to the base of the leaf blade (as shown), and compact the rooting mixture around it. If there is space, more than one leaf cutting may be rooted in a single pot. Put the pot in a transparent, covered container or plastic baggie after labeling it. After that, put this somewhere sunny and cool—avoid direct sunlight or places that are too hot as these could cause the leaf cutting to burn or decay.
Plantlets at 12 weeks in Stage 4. From the cut end of the rooted leaf’s petiole, one or more plantlets will start to form and rise above the dirt. The ones shown are ready to be divided and planted right away, but we often wait 4-5 months because that gives more plantlets time to develop from the cutting. Additionally, the plantlets will be slightly bigger, more manageable, and more likely to survive their transfer.
Separate the plantlets from the leaf cutting in step 5. View the image on the right. Plantlets can be detached from the “mother leaf” when they are big enough for you to handle them easily. Take the cutting out of its pot, grip a plantlet firmly, and carefully remove the plantlet away from the leaf cutting. If your rooting mixture is light and not too wet, you can probably do this without using a knife. If your plantlet is healthy, it will grow roots when it is potted, so don’t worry too much if it doesn’t have many (or even any).
Step 6: Get the plantlet’s pot ready. View the image on the left. Your typical soil mixture should be used to fill a small pot (2 or 2 1/4). Create a small hole using an old pencil that is deep enough to accommodate the plantlet that will be potted.
7. Plant the plantlet.
View the image on the right.
Place the plantlet carefully into the hole and firm the earth around it. Plantlets should be buried in the soil just deep enough to cover the entire naked central stem or “trunk,” but not so deeply that the tiny growing point in the middle of the plant is buried.
Eighth step: You’re done! Water the plant minimally and label it. You can immediately put larger plantlets among your other violets. Put the plantlet into a clear, covered container or plastic baggie if it is still very little and/or has few roots. This will provide it a little “terrarium-like environment and protect it as it grows. In a few weeks, remove it from this container.