Mark the legs’ ends at 9 and 11-1/2 inches (A). Place two counterbores of 3/8-in. diameter evenly spaced apart along each leg. Making two “H assemblies, glue the ends of the cross members (B) and clamp each one between two legs. Ensure that one notch faces upward, and the other downward. Drill clearance holes through the legs after the glue has dried, and then drill pilot holes into the cross members. The assembly is secured by 1-1/2-in. screws. It’s simpler to maintain parts aligned by clamping, letting the glue dry, and then inserting the screws when there isn’t much clamping space available.
Here’s how I made my DIY tiered plant stand with room for hanging plants!
Before using any tools or materials, always follow the required safety precautions. When necessary, put on safety gear and collaborate on tasks with an expert. For additional information, see my full terms of use and disclosure. Happy construction and good luck!
Step 1: Cut pieces and assemble each side
The horizontal parts have pocket holes, which aid in holding the whole structure together. I started by utilizing the horizontal sections to join the rear piece to the central piece. I then joined the front piece to the middle piece.
Following firmly fastening all of that, I inserted the bottom two horizontal supports and fastened them with pocket hole screws as well. To make each side, you will need to do this twice. Make sure the inward-facing pocket holes are in.
Step 2: Finish the main structure
I then used the cross pieces to join the two sides together. I did two on the bottom for the widest area of the stand. One more dowel along the top for hanging plants, followed by another approximately midway up the back.
This project would not have been possible for me to complete without either more hands or lengthy bar clamps. Bar clamps were the only option as I was short on hands. They came in really handy, especially while I was fusing the two sides together.
Step 3: Add slatted tops
I started by cutting all of the components for the top two shelves. To be completely honest, I had no intention of taking a different route for the bottom shelf. The depth was, however, just a hair shorter than the stand’s breadth, so by switching the bottom shelf’s direction from horizontal to vertical, I was able to use a ton of leftover components. Then I did.
I took an absurd amount of time deciding whether or not to color the slats before I even attached them. I had never used a black wood stain before, but I felt the contrast would be attractive. Though it turned out wonderful, I’m so glad I gave it a try.
Just because I assumed it would be simpler, I dyed the slats before screwing them to the tier stand. I didn’t want to have to stress over staining with extreme caution. I simply attached all of the slats with a nail gun, evenly spacing them out: 5 on the top shelf, 4 on the middle shelf, and 12 on the bottom shelf.
You can use wood glue, a hammer, and nails if you don’t have a nail gun. Even if it’s not ideal and will take a little longer, it will unquestionably be fine! In fact, you might be able to create a strong enough bond with simply wood glue and clamps. Just be aware that it won’t be as durable as nails and glue.
Step 4: Protect and finish
I applied many coats of Varathane water-based matte urethane using my paint sprayer. The piece has numerous slats, crevices, and nooks, thus the sprayer was ideal for the job. I used fine-grit sandpaper to lightly sand the exposed surfacestops and sides in between layers.
You can see the item I’m replacing; it looks and feels remarkably similar. I still adore this Ikea shelf unit and moved it to a different part of the house even though my new construction has a little more vertical height for plants. It was helpful to me for a time!
And here is the final plant stand…
To assist bring more light to the middle shelf and the bottom shelf, where I’m growing plants, I placed a grow light strip to the bottom of the middle shelf. I also attached a single grow lamp that is suspended from the top dowel. I made use of a straightforward light cage, a black rope, and a GE grow lamp.
One of my favorite air plants was placed in the middle hanging plant after I put two hanging plants on the dowel. On the left, there is the hanging grow light. I don’t need a lot of additional light on this plant stand because the window to the right receives wonderful early afternoon through early evening light. A second grow light, though, wouldn’t hurt at the other window’s end! And some of the most needy plants will benefit most in the fall and winter.
How is a ladder plant stand constructed?
Refer to the photo above as needed during each stage of the process. It will be simpler to get things perfect the first time around if you have a visual handy.
Project Time: 1-2 hrs
Step 1: Use wood glue and a 1.25 screw to join 48 vertical pieces to 50 diagonal pieces (with diagonal cuts on both ends).
Pro tip: To prevent cracking, make sure to drill right through the middle of your wood pieces.
The 3.5, 8 and 12.5 shelf supports should be attached to each of the sections you made in step 1 in step 2.
If you measure from the top, they should fall at 7, 19, and 31 inches, respectively. The wood’s broadest side should face the frame. To affix, use wood glue and 1.25 screws.
They ought to be flush with the back of the frame and tucked between each of the side frames.
Step 4: Apply adhesive to the broadest shelf supports’ tops. The bottom shelf should be positioned on top of the shelf supports and secured with screws.
You can use more screws if you want the shelves to be extremely secure. We used two screws, one in the middle left and one in the middle right. Apply the same strategy to the middle and top shelves.
To complete your plant stand and give it a pro-fresh-ional appearance and feel, sand down the entire piece.
It’s time to choose a location and exhibit your plants now that your ladder plant stand is complete! Consider the foyer, bedroom, or home office. Your ladder stand will seem more interesting if you style it with a range of plants and ornamental pots that will leave a lasting impact in any room. Use the styling ideas below as a starting point.
Depending on the foliage you add, you can get the aesthetic you want, whether it’s sleek and straightforward or rustic and natural. Visit our home design articles for more ideas on styling plants and your home. Cheers to DIYing!
How is a trellis frame constructed?
2. Join the edges of two of these 3-foot sections and two of the 6-foot pieces to create a rectangle “image frame form.
3. Use wood screws to join these four parts together. The other 3-foot and 6-foot sections should then be used. Therefore, you now have two “on the trellis’s sides.
4. Spread out enough hardware or fencing material to completely cover one side. Staple it to the frame using your stapler. Advice: To prevent the hardware cloth from sagging in the middle, pull it taut when you staple it to the frame.
5. Continue with the other side or frame.
6. To join the two frames, screw in the two hinges at the top of the frame. Advice: Carry out this action with the two frames lying open on the ground.
Making the “first dividing a second 6-foot piece into two 3-foot sections.
8. Next, slice the 3-foot piece in half diagonally to make two “pieces of feet The pointed side will stick out into the earth and tip downward.
9. Repeat with the other two pieces of foot.
10. Attach the four foot pieces with screws to the frames.
Get the strategy To help you, I’ve posted a schematic and instruction sheet on my blog. Download it from this page. On request, high-resolution images are available.
What alternative exists to a plant stand?
Wood is the most popular material for plant stands since you can build them to fit your pots and paint or stain them as needed. Additionally, you might create your own plant stand by upcycling various secondhand things like old drawers, stools, baskets, chairs, etc.
Where should a plant stand be placed?
your house Here are some inventive designs for plant stands:
- Plants can be elevated behind couches or in a corner of the room using a plant stand. If you don’t have a large houseplant, this is extremely useful. A specimen plant will make a stronger statement if it is raised.
- A good rule of thumb for arranging plants in a way that is aesthetically acceptable when you have a multi-level plant stand is to place the larger plants on the bottom shelves and save the top shelf for the smaller plants and trailing plants so they have room to flourish.
- Choose a plant stand with built-in grow lights if you want to put one in a room that doesn’t have any or enough natural light.
- For a single plant, use an old foot stool or even an old bar stool as a plant stand.
- Adapt an old chair to serve as a plant stand. Find a pot that will fit in the empty seat space after removing the seat. The chair can be painted to your preferences or left to look more rustic.
- There are some stunning, sleek, and contemporary planters with straightforward, four-legged wooden bases and a ceramic pot that fits in the middle that are readily accessible thanks to the rise of mid-century modern design.
- Use an A-frame ladder or even a leaning ladder to exhibit your indoor plants in an artistic way.