Fun fact: Because it yields Mexican breadfruit, this plant is nicknamed “deliciosa.
Monstera Borsigniana
Given how difficult it is to tell the two apart when they’re young, this is actually a variant of deliciosa and may be sold under that name.
Examining the stem is one technique to determine. Where the leaf joins the stem, deliciosas frequently pucker, ruffle, or develop lovely tiny bumps, whereas borsigniana does not. Likely smaller and expanding more quickly than deliciosa is borsigniana. Unlike deliciosa, mature plants typically create two clean rows of holes or slits rather than producing holes more randomly.
Never fear if you get one of these instead of a deliciosa! It still makes a magnificent addition to your home even though it can grow just as tall, almost as big, and a little bit faster.
Monstera Variegata
Monsteras that are variegated are not distinct plants, but rather a difference in colour. These plants may even appear to have been painted white. Personally, I adore them.
Plants that have white, cream, and green patterns are said to be variegated. These plants are typically more expensive and more difficult to find.
By the way, if you’re fortunate enough to discover them, several of the varieties on this list are also available in variegated form! (For additional information, see Where to Find a Variegated Monstera in our blog!)
Monstera Adansonii
Although the holes in this type are not as enormous as those in the deliciosa, they are still rather big! About 50% of the leaf is usually taken up by the holes.
As real obliqua are quite uncommon, you can be sure that if you see this label in a nursery, you’re actually looking at a monstera adansonii. These are reasonably common, but they are also frequently mislabelled as monstera obliqua. In comparison to obliqua, adansonii often has thicker, rougher leaves.
Monstera Pinnatipartita
These plants produce unusually large, glossy leaves with slits rather than holes that extend to the leaf’s edge. The leaf stems are strong and rigid, and they are an exquisite shade of emerald green. Although they are a little more difficult to locate, you can typically find one or two online.
Monstera Dubia
One of my favourites is this. Small, heart-shaped leaves with both dark and light green colouring are a distinctive feature of this cultivar. Although not truly multicoloured, it is getting close. With shorter stems and leaves that encroach closer to whatever the plant is climbing, it develops like a vine.
Monstera Siltepecana
Large, teardrop-shaped leaves with smaller holes clustered around the centre vein characterise this attractive cultivar. They have both dark and light green colours and are frequently paler than other monsteras. Gorgeous! Though more difficult to locate, they are stunning if you can find one.
Monstera Obliqua
We’re sorry to break it to you, but Home Depot or really anywhere else won’t have this. But we still wanted to include it because it’s so cool!
These beautiful plants still retain their distinctive holes, but they usually have more holes than leaves. These plants are exceedingly delicate, therefore you won’t find them in nurseries. The holes can remove up to 90% of the paper-thin leaves. However, if you’re lucky, you might be able to see them in select botanical gardens. Only 17 instances of this plant have been recorded in the wild, and it is frequently researched for potential hybridization with other species.
Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma or “Mini Monstera
We’re lying here because this plant isn’t a monstera in the strictest sense (you undoubtedly realised that from the scientific name), but they look lovely with one!
The leaves of this plant have the same distinctive holes as monstera, but the huge holes on this plant tend to extend all the way to the leaf edge and have a more notched appearance. These monstera cultivars are easier to grow and more accessible than some of the more exotic monstera kinds. The rich green hue is beautiful. Mini Monstera Care Tips can be found here. Click here to view this plant on Amazon!
Do Monsteras count as philodendrons?
Millennials’ love of houseplants has been reignited through social media. One plant in particular has achieved fame—at least on Instagram. Huge, glossy, dark green leaves with intriguing perforations that don’t even suggest carelessness quickly bring to mind a tropical rainforest. It’s a delicious Monstera plant. Or is it a philodendron with split leaves?
The tropical monstera, as it is commonly known, is a native of Mexico and is mostly valued for its fruit (hence the scientific name). However, it also does well as a houseplant: It can grow remarkably big, tolerates moderate levels of sunlight, and doesn’t require much water.
This plant has several different names, some of which refer to its attractive foliage and others to its excellent fruit (“fruit salad plant” and “monster fruit”). If the conditions are right, those leaves grow holes. One monstrous term for the holes is “Swiss cheese plant.” Split-leaf philodendron is an additional.
If you enjoy gardening, you’re probably already familiar with several of the flowering plants of the philodendron genus, such as the peace lily. Technically speaking, the monstera isn’t even a philodendron.
The arum family, a much bigger group of plants that also contains the perennially well-liked pothos, one of the nicest and simplest houseplants in the world, comprises both monstera and true philodendrons. The requirements for water, light, and climate are identical among all of these plants, and they all contain calcium oxalate, which makes them poisonous to both people and animals. Numerous of these plants feature unusually shaped leaves, such as those with lacy fingers, wide lobes, heart-shaped leaves, or vivid pink veins. Even though the monstera isn’t a philodendron, it undoubtedly behaves and looks like one.
This is where things become challenging. The names split-leaf philodendron refer to two actual philodendron species, Philodendron bipinnatifidum and Philodendron selloum. Despite being wholly different species from monstera, these two plants sometimes share the same moniker. It’s no wonder we’re perplexed!
It might be difficult to name plants because they can have completely different names depending on where you are or who is describing them. Even the names of common plants can vary by generation and locale. You should probably start reviewing your Latin names!
Monstera: Is it a succulent?
Succulents do not include Monsteras. Although they differ from genus to genus and species to species, succulents are a class of plants that store water in their leaves. They are known for their thick, meaty leaves. Instead of having thick, water-filled leaves and stems, monsteras have thin, heart-shaped, fenestrated foliage.
Because succulent leaves can retain water, they can survive prolonged droughts and thrive in dry areas. In contrast to Monsteras, they detest humidity, and if they are exposed to too much moisture, their fleshy leaves and roots rot and collapse, destroying the plant.
While Monsteras may endure cooler temperatures, they prefer warm, tropical regions. In the same environment, the majority of succulents cannot survive. A succulent will typically develop mushy leaves and freeze to death in colder climates.
Succulents are easily multiplied, just as aroids. Succulents, on the other hand, originate from fallen leaves as opposed to leaf and stem cuttings, unlike Monstera and other aroids.
A fern or a monstera?
Native to Central America, monstera is a genus of evergreen tropical vines and shrubs. Their common name, Swiss Cheese Plant, originated from their well-known natural leaf-holes. Fenestrations, the name for the Monstera’s leaf holes, are thought to optimise the amount of sunlight that reaches the forest floor by spreading the leaf out wider while using fewer leaf cells to support it.
Monstera—is it a tree?
They are evergreen herbs or vines that can reach heights of 20 metres (66 feet) in trees. To climb, they use aerial roots that serve as hooks over branches and can also extend into the ground to support the plant. The plant is classified as a hemiepiphyte because its roots extend both into the ground and above trees.
What distinguishes a Monstera from a philodendron?
Nearly 500 different species of Philodendron exist, each with a unique appearance. Because of this, it can be challenging to identify a Philodendron plant in a way that “fits all.” But the name itself has one hint.
What’s in a Name?
The word “philodendron” is Greek in origin. Combining the words “philo,” which means “love,” and “dendron,” which means “tree,” creates this term. Philodendrons enjoy climbing trees to reach the top canopy, where they have better access to light, using their aerial roots. These aerial roots can grow on even kinds that don’t appear to be climbers, as the Philodendron Prince of Orange.
Falling Cataphylls
Although philodendron leaves vary in a variety of sizes and forms, they always share cataphyll. This is a tiny, modified leaf that guards the developing new leaves.
When the leaves develop, this cataphyll will fall off in the case of vining Philodendrons like Philodendron micans or the heartleaf Philodendron. The cataphyll on some types, particularly epiphytic Philodendrons, dries out but stays on the plant like a Monstera.
Philodendron Varieties That Look Like Monstera
Given the diversity of species, it is only expected that some will exhibit characteristics that are more frequently seen in Monsteras.
These repeat offenders are listed:
- It can be very simple to confuse split-leaf philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum), which is frequently sold under the name Monstera deliciosa. The two differ in terms of the size and shape of the leaves. The philodendron has smaller, divided leaves as opposed to fenestrated leaves. In contrast to Monstera leaves, which are round and heart-shaped, they also resemble feathers.
- Philodendron minima is a challenging plant to grow. It is frequently identified in the plant trade under names like “mini monstera” because of its oval-shaped, split leaves that resemble those of a Monstera. But it’s neither a Monstera nor a Philodendron with holes. It is a member of the Rhaphidophora genus and is known by the scientific name Rhaphidophora tetrasperma.
Do Monstera deliciosa plants make Swiss cheese?
Monstera deliciosa, sometimes referred to as the “Swiss cheese plant,” is a dramatic addition to any space with its enormous, glossy, dark green leaves. A woody vine that may grow up to 70 feet tall, it is found in the tropics of North and South America. But it’s also a well-liked houseplant due to its low fussiness and lack of pests or diseases. Its magnificent leaves can get up to three feet wide and have holes that give it its funny moniker. It’s a fantastic plant for both novice and expert gardeners.
What else do you need to know about this plant that is highly Instagrammable?
Do Monstera and Swiss cheese plants look alike?
The monstera deliciosa, commonly known as the swiss cheese plant because to its strikingly divided leaves, is one of the most popular indoor plants for 2020. Designers use it in everything from purses to fabric designs to earrings, and you can find it all over Pinterest and Instagram.
Additionally, it is being incorrectly referred to as a split-leaf philodendron worldwide. In reality, the monstera deliciosa I bought at a nursery last weekend was actually classified as a split-leaf philodendron by the grower. But it’s definitely not a philodendron!
Do monstera plants prefer little pots?
Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighbourhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.
Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”
When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?
During the warmer months of the year, wait until the soil has dried to at least 50% of its depth. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.
How much light does a Monstera need?
Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.
When should I fertilize my Monstera?
Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertiliser every other time you water. You can fertilise your plants every time you water them if they are growing quickly in the summer. Fertilize not during the winter.
Should I re-pot my Monstera?
The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.
Light
It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.
Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.
Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognise. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.
Watering
The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.
Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!
In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.
Fertiliser
As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertiliser. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertiliser. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertiliser and using it less frequently.
Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.
Repotting
Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.
It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.
Propagation
After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. You might need to stake the plant as it gets bigger in order to sustain this sprawling epiphyte and keep it standing erect. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.
The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.
Common Problems
Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mould on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.
If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.
The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.
Outdoors Care
When Monstera is outdoors, it is ideal to keep it in a semi-sheltered area. Try to locate a location where they are protected from the wind, frost, and hot afternoon sun. It should be mentioned that Monstera deliciosado does not need warm temperatures or high humidity. Although they will develop more quickly in the warmth, they can stay outside throughout winter in Melbourne. They will benefit much from the morning sun, which is completely OK.
This is the ideal place to start if you’re looking for a plant for your balcony or courtyard. This plant will grow quickly thanks to the additional bright light and the great airflow. Increased airflow around the plant will help to lower the risk of overwatering and the likelihood that viruses may infect the plants. I’ve discovered that in this posture, the leaves will also grow bigger and have more fenestration. You’re welcome to plant one right away in a garden bed!