Now that we’ve gone over some broad guidelines, let’s look at how to care for some of the most common houseplants during the fall and winter months.
Pothos
Because this plant has a shallow root structure, it necessitates less watering. Watering should be light in the winter don’t saturate the soil, but rather water softly around the pot once every two weeks, or when the soil has been dry for a while. Transfer to a warmer location in the house, preferably near a window (as long as it’s not too drafty), and wait until spring to fertilize.
Spider Plant
Because spider plants despise the cold, keep them away from windows in the winter. Avoid fertilizer and don’t cut your spider plants in the winter; they need all of their chlorophyll to survive the cold. Rotate the pot on a regular basis to ensure that one side does not receive all of the sunlight. Maintain a warm environment for the plant, but avoid placing it immediately on or in front of a heater. When the sun isn’t directly on the plant, go from watering to misting (otherwise the leaves will burn).
Succulents and Cacti
Succulents are cold hardy and require less light in the winter. Moving them to a brighter area in the house if they start to get leggy (more space between the leaves) is a good idea. Make sure your plant gets at least three to four hours of bright, indirect light per day, preferably near a south or east facing window, and water only when it’s fully dry for the greatest results (once every 2 to 4 weeks). To avoid rot, make careful to keep the plant itself dry when watering. During the winter, expect your hanging succulents (such as string of pearls or burro’s tail) to stop growing.
Ficus
It’s usual for ficus trees to shed leaves in the winter, so don’t be alarmed if yours is doing so heavily. Keep it free from drafts, both cold and hot, and rotate it once a week to ensure an even distribution of sunshine. Water the plant no more than twice a week, but keep it moist using a humidifier nearby or by spraying it 2 to 3 times per week.
Sansevieria
Sansevieria, also known as devil’s tongue, mother-in-law tongue, or snake plant, thrives in the dry winter air. To avoid rot, water just enough to keep the soil from drying out completely, but avoid getting water in the center or on the leaves. Keep it in a bright, sunny location, water it once or twice a week, and don’t fertilize it.
Monstera
Monstera (or Swiss cheese plant), the social media favourite, is extremely sensitive to overwatering, especially in the winter. Before watering again, make sure the soil is completely dry at least 2 inches down. Use gentle water to mist the leaves as often as possible, ideally every day (since tap water has an overabundance of salt that can hurt your tropical plant). If the leaves have brown, crispy edges, the plant is too close to a heat source; transfer it to a location where hot, dry air will not contact it.
Philodendron
This is an exception to the rule that says you shouldn’t fertilize in the winter. Give your philodendron a taste of a balanced liquid fertilizer every 6 to 8 weeks, especially if the leaves are turning pale. You can also repot in late winter, right before spring; the philodendron should be transplanted before it begins vigorous new growth. Water only when the soil is dry 1 to 2 inches below the surface, and mist the leaves every now and again.
Elephant Ear
Warm temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees, bright and indirect light, high humidity, and continuously moist (but not soggy) soil are all requirements for these sensitive plants. To prevent root rot, get it a humidifier for the holidays and elevate the pot slightly on a layer of rocks. It’s fine if your elephant ear plant turns brown and drops a lot of leaves despite your best efforts; it’s just becoming dormant. Cut off all the foliage at that point and cease watering until new shoots grow in the spring.
Hoya
During the winter, this extremely forgiving vine requires very little water. In fact, you can skip watering entirely until the leaves begin to curl, then give it a moderate soaking and leave it alone again. Simply provide it with plenty of indirect sunlight and keep it warm.
Euphorbia
During the winter, the small beauties in this wide genus of plants require more water than most plants. It’s best to stick to the same watering plan as the rest of the year, but give it a little less and only add water if the soil is completely dry. Even if you try your hardest, the euphorbia will fall completely dormant in the winter, dropping all of its leaves and even shriveling. Don’t worry, it’ll return in the spring.
Can pothos survive winter?
Is it going to perish in the winter? Pothos is an excellent ground cover for places that are partially to completely shaded. It can freeze back in harsh winters, but it normally blooms again in the spring. Give the plant a thorough chop when spring arrives so it can renew for the coming season.
How do you care for a pothos plant indoors?
Learn how to look after your Pothos!
- Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Water every 1-2 weeks. Watering should be done more frequently in better light and less frequently in lower light.
How cold is too cold for pothos?
A Pothos plant, on the other hand, does not thrive in temperatures below 65°F. There is no common temperature for all plants that is too cold, which is why research is essential.
Is pothos cold hardy?
Keep this plant at temperatures between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit (15 and 29 degrees Celsius) all year to keep it as healthy as possible. It can endure cold spells of up to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius), but anything below that would kill the plant.
Should I repot my pothos in winter?
Pothos repotting is best done in the spring and summer, as it is for other houseplants. Early fall is acceptable if you live in a climate with mild winters, like I do. In a nutshell, you should complete everything at least 6 weeks before the colder months arrive. In the winter, houseplants prefer not to be disturbed, and the roots settle in much better in the warmer months.
How do I know if my pothos is healthy?
Pothos thrive when their soil is allowed to dry out between waterings. As with any plant, keep an eye on the leaves for signs of health: if they’re glossy, green, and perky, the plant is doing well; if they’re drooping or going brown, you’re not giving it enough water. Overwatering and root rot are indicated by yellow leaves. Don’t let the soil stay damp all the time.
Should I mist my pothos plant?
Plants with fuzzy leaves, such as African violets and Tolmiea, should not be misted since water on their leaves can cause permanent spotting. A humidity tray can be used here. Fill a tray, plate, or bowl halfway with water and pebbles, river stones, or other similar items. Place the plant on top, making sure the water does not come into contact with the pot. Succulents, dragon tree (Draceana marginata), fiddle leaf fig (Ficus lyrata), yucca, pothos, ponytail plant (Beaucarnea recurvata), cissus, and spider plant are examples of plants that don’t require a lot of water.
Can I put my Pothos outside?
If you work in or have visited a business office building, you’ve probably seen pothos wrapping itself over walls, file cabinets, and other surfaces. Pothos, often known as Devil’s Ivy, tolerates fluorescent lights exceedingly well, making it suitable for these applications.
Pothos is a tropical understory plant that requires warm temperatures and a shady to largely shady setting, such as a site with little dappled morning sun. Pothos plants thrive in temperatures ranging from 70 to 90 degrees F (21-32 degrees C) with heavy humidity.
Can potted plants survive winter?
Container-grown plants, fortunately for gardeners in mild-winter areas (the warmer parts of Zone 8 and south), require little or no winterization beyond relocating pots to more protected locations and sometimes covering them with frost blankets when freezing temperatures are forecast.
In colder climates, where freezing temperatures are the norm in the dead of winter, gardeners must use a variety of ways to protect plants from both the cold and the wind. In the coldest parts of the country (Zone 4 and colder), overwintering container-grown plants outdoors is exceedingly difficult, so it’s better to cultivate annuals and perennials for a single season of color.
Potted plants planted on terraces and rooftops that will be exposed to freezing winds should be moved to a sheltered area, such as next to a building or near a pergola or other structure, away from high winds and winter sun, in all but the mildest winter climates. When possible, put pots together and place the most cold-sensitive plants in the middle of the group, where they will be protected by the hardier plants.