The optimum time to divide or propagate your monstera is in the early spring because that is when it grows. They’ll have a better chance of overcoming root stress and resuming growth.
Water before you split
Before splitting the root ball, it should be well-hydrated. Give the roots a good soak a week before you carry out the deed so that water begins to flow out of the bottom of the pot. (Your pot has effective drainage, correct?)
Make the split
Carefully tip the pot on its side and slip the plant out when you’re ready to split your monstera. To avoid breaking anything, you might need assistance holding the plant or pot.
Use a garden shovel to gently encourage the plant out if it won’t come up on its own. Do not pull the plant out of the pot under any circumstances! There is no way you want to break any stems or leaves since they won’t grow back.
Once the monstera has been removed from the pot, divide the root ball into two or more plants using a sharp, clean knife. To ensure that each new plant has lots of roots and stems, look for natural sections and divisions in the existing plant.
This is something you kind of have to eyeball and look for any locations where the plant has already divided up. This will guarantee that the plant will rapidly begin growing after the split has healed.
Plant the new monsteras
It’s time to move the individual plants into their new pots after you’ve divided your monstera into two or more plants.
Perhaps you need containers that are smaller than the one the large plant was in. Select containers with sufficient drainage that are 2-4 inches wider than the new plants’ roots. Plant in a soil with peat, such as our specialty monstera soil, that drains well.
When the plants are in their new pots, give them some water, and position them somewhere with bright, indirect light.
To promote recuperation and new development, you can begin fertilizing the plants around a month after you separate them!
Where can I find monstera cuttings for planting?
, you should separate each leaf and node on either side of the node/aerial root into independent segments.
The youngest leaf has a node that was still propagation-viable despite not having fully matured (you can kind of see it bumping through).
After you have separated your cuttings, you should remove any outdated sheathing from the leaf stems. When submerged in water for an extended period of time, they can decay and hinder the propagation process.
Your cuttings are now ready to go to their temporary residence. All you need is water and a vessel—I like clear ones.
It’s best to let the cuts to “heal” or dry up a little bit before immersing the cuttings in water. This only takes a little while.
The aerial root can be cut back, but I prefer to leave mine uncut. To make it sit comfortably at the bottom of my vessel, I simply delicately wrap it up.
The remaining stems are then arranged in the vessel, each one being spaced apart to allow for proper root development as well as aesthetic appeal once they are planted in soil. Due to their new root system, there isn’t much room to try to arrange them at that time.
Simply add water to completely cover the roots and ends once they are positioned how you like.
Place it somewhere bright, but not in the sun, and replace the water every three to five days. After roughly 2-3 weeks, roots should start to form!
In addition to new roots, it has also sprouted a huge number of new leaves.
Here is a picture of my very first effort at growing a monstera. I took the above steps, potted the cuttings in soil after around three months, and continued. It has thrived ever since I started watering it once a week!
Your inquiries are addressed:
Yes! Once they are in the proper light and receiving the appropriate amount of water, they are excellent for beginners and very simple to care for.
I plant them in a well-draining pot using ordinary Miracle Grow indoor potting soil. No need for moss or pearls.
Yes, to answer simply. That is a factor in the propagation process. I wouldn’t recommend making excessive or frequent cuts because you run the danger of harming the plant by putting it into shock.
It’s usually time for a new and larger pot when you can see the roots through the dirt or when you notice the growth has significantly halted.
All of my plants receive fertilizer during the growth season (April to September). I will fertilize every other week because I water them all once a week. I prefer liquid fertilizers (plant food) since I can regulate the amount that each plant receives.
In the summer, grocery stores like Kroger or your neighborhood Lowe’s or Home Depot may stock them. It’s always a good idea to check for nearby and online nurseries, such as
Allow Bright, Indirect Sunlight Exposure
Among all the elements that support fenestration on a monstera, light is at the top of the list.
The majority of Monstera plants I’ve come across that don’t fenestrate are frequently planted in a dimly lit, shaded section of the home.
How long do Monstera leaves take to split?
When the plant is healthy, the splitting of the monstera leaves often starts between the ages of 2 and 3. Age is not the only determinant, though, and you must make sure the plant is given the right care to promote leaf splitting.
How can I determine the age of my Monstera?
To begin with, the age of the plant affects the shape of Monstera leaves. You might observe that the splits emerge on the newest leaves if your monstera has some leaves with fenestrations and some leaves without. When the Monstera is old and content enough to produce mature leaves with splits, fenestrations start to form.
When a Monstera matures and forms its first fenestrations, it will be between one and three years old. When my Monsteras, which thrive in strong light conditions, generate 5–6 tiny leaves on the same stem, they usually obtain their initial split leaves. The precise quantity will change depending on your growing environment. In our article, you can read more about the ideal lighting for Monstera.
Last but not least, huge Monsteras that are 3 years or older to a few decades old can produce massive leaves. Even more fenestrations, which appear as extra rows of holes inside the splits, may arise.
It was probably propagated from a top cutting if you notice a monstera plant with enormous split leaves and no tiny baby leaves (learn more about propagating monstera in our ultimate guide). By doing this, the new plant was able to advance the maturity of its leaves.
Can You Propagate a Leaf Without a Node?
Simply put, no. For your cutting to produce new leaves, it MUST have a node.
You’ve certainly drooled over stunning images of a single monstera leaf in a lovely glass vase of clear water on Instagram and in home décor magazines.
The bad news is that even while a leaf without a node might develop some roots, it will still only be a leaf with roots. It won’t develop into a new monstera plant with stalks or additional leaves. There will never be more than one leaf.
The node is essential for propagation since it stores all of the genetic data required to develop a new plant.
Do All Monstera Leaves Have Nodes?
Nodes are little bumps that develop on the side of your monstera’s stem that is not covered by a leaf, not even on the stems of the leaves.
Your monstera’s vine develops nodes. In fact, because it hasn’t matured sufficiently, a young monstera may not have any nodes yet. Your monstera may not yet be mature enough to propagate from cuttings if it appears as though leaves are sprouting directly out of the soil. (However, if it’s big enough, you might be able to propagate it using separation!)
Most of your plant’s leaves will be accompanied by a node on the other side of the stem once it begins to vine.
Can You Propagate Leafless Nodes?
So, while you CANNOT propagate a node without a leaf, you CAN propagate a leaf without a node!
Online vendors may provide leafless, unrooted nodes for sale. But the success rate won’t be as high as when you propagate cuttings with one or two leaves.
Why are the aerial roots on my Monstera growing?
The presence of aerial roots on your monstera plant is natural and not a sign that anything is wrong. The monstera plant is a climbing plant in its natural environment.
The plant’s climbing behavior is only partially manifested in the form of aerial roots. They are there to aid in its expansion. They may be an aesthetic nightmare, but they’re not dangerous.
Should you remove your monstera plant’s aerial roots? or just let them be? I’ll address all of your concerns about what to do with the aerial roots of the monstera plant below.
How many roots should an unplanted Monstera have?
You should plan on giving your Monstera cutting around 6 weeks before planting it in soil so that roots can form.
In order to guarantee a strong root system has established for a better chance of survival, I often advise waiting at least 2-3 months.
However, as long as you change the water frequently, clean the roots, and transfer the cutting into a larger jar as it grows, a Monstera can survive in water for many months (if not years).
It is prepared to be put in soil when a lovely cluster of roots fills your container.
You can plant your Monstera cutting as long as it has five roots that are at least several inches long.
Keep the Roots Clean
Keep an eye on the roots as they grow every week, and don’t be hesitant to cut off any sections that seem unhealthy.
You can clip out roots that appear to be rotting as long as there are numerous healthy-looking roots (white, yellow, light green, and light brown).
These are typically distinguished from the others by being dark, mushy, or significantly more slimy.
Can two Monstera plants be combined?
Most people simply place one houseplant in a pot, but is it possible to cultivate multiple houseplants in the same container? Yes. In fact, placing several houseplants in one container gives a space more flair. Combining indoor plants that complement one another is the key.
Can the top of my Monstera be cut off?
Fortunately, trimming a monstera is not too difficult. Since they are a hardy plant, they don’t need to be meticulously pruned. In other words, even if you don’t perform a great job, your plant will probably be alright.
You’ll want to remember a few things, though:
1. Put on gloves. When pruning or propagating your monstera, be sure to use protective gloves because the sap is poisonous and can cause severe skin irritation.
2. Use a tidy, sharp instrument. You can avoid crushing or damaging the stem by using sharp pruning shears or a knife to make the cut. Your plant is also shielded from hazardous microorganisms by clean tools. Bacterial diseases can even spread to your other plants and are difficult to treat. (Protect your monstera from insects, fungi, and bacteria with our Houseplant Leaf Armor!)
Instead of slicing the stem off, just give it a good snip or chop while cutting. The cleanest cut will be made as a result.
3. If you can, prune in the spring, especially if you want to promote growth. Growth spurts occur in the spring and summer for the majority of plants, including monstera. Pruning in the spring will yield the best benefits and hasten the recovery of your plant. You should prune in the spring because that is when your cuttings will grow the fastest if you intend to propagate them.
4. Arrange the slices. Starting at the base of the stem, remove any outdated or diseased leaves.
Cut where you want the plant to grow if you are pruning to promote growth. Make a top cut if you want it to grow higher.
When the time comes to actually trim your monstera, keep in mind that pruning promotes growth so choose where to make your cuts. You can safely reduce the plant’s size if you’re pruning to manage your monstera’s size. Just remember that it will eventually need to be done again because it will grow back.
5. Be sure to cut below a node if you’re propagating. Don’t be concerned if you’re only trimming to reduce the size of your plant or get rid of dead leaves. However, if you want to grow your cuttings from them, make sure that they have a node, which is a tiny knob that develops on the stem opposite a leaf. When your cutting begins to grow, these will subsequently develop into aerial roots!
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6. Prevent unintentional proliferation. When you’re done pruning, be careful to dispose of your cuttings in the trash if you’re not going to propagate them because if you place them in a compost pile or somewhere else where they can root in the earth, they’ll start to grow roots.
I’m done now! Don’t be afraid to prune your monstera; it’s an essential yet easy component of care for this plant. This plant develops rapidly and bounces back quickly from pruning. Good fortune!