Professional growers frequently start out by propagating many plants in the same pot. A fuller plant does result from it.
It is far more challenging to combine mature sperate plants with their individual rootballs. When dirt is put around the various rootballs, they can only fit into a very large pot, which dramatically increases the likelihood of accidental overwatering. You run the risk of damaging a significant number of the root hairs if you remove a lot of soil from each individual rootball.
You can do it, but you should be aware of the hazards. Additionally, think about leaving them in their individual pots and combining those pots in a sizable container or planter without harming the roots.
Pick your timing
The optimum time to divide or propagate your monstera is in the early spring because that is when it grows. They’ll have a better chance of overcoming root stress and resuming growth.
Water before you split
Before splitting the root ball, it should be well-hydrated. Give the roots a good soak a week before you carry out the deed so that water begins to flow out of the bottom of the pot. (Your pot has effective drainage, correct?)
Make the split
Carefully tip the pot on its side and slip the plant out when you’re ready to split your monstera. To avoid breaking anything, you might need assistance holding the plant or pot.
Use a garden shovel to gently encourage the plant out if it won’t come up on its own. Do not pull the plant out of the pot under any circumstances! There is no way you want to break any stems or leaves since they won’t grow back.
Once the monstera has been removed from the pot, divide the root ball into two or more plants using a sharp, clean knife. To ensure that each new plant has lots of roots and stems, look for natural sections and divisions in the existing plant.
This is something you kind of have to eyeball and look for any locations where the plant has already divided up. This will guarantee that the plant will rapidly begin growing after the split has healed.
Plant the new monsteras
It’s time to move the individual plants into their new pots after you’ve divided your monstera into two or more plants.
Perhaps you need containers that are smaller than the one the large plant was in. Select containers with sufficient drainage that are 2-4 inches wider than the new plants’ roots. Plant in a soil with peat, such as our specialty monstera soil, that drains well.
When the plants are in their new pots, give them some water, and position them somewhere with bright, indirect light.
To promote recuperation and new development, you can begin fertilizing the plants around a month after you separate them!
Is it possible to pot monsteras jointly?
This is very reliant on your surroundings, which will undoubtedly have the most influence on the growth of any indoor plants you have. The amount of light, temperature, humidity, and watering practices will all affect how quickly your plant grows. However, generally speaking, in my experience, growth is moderate during the spring and summer, but it decreases over the fall and winter, and if temperatures are low enough, it will completely cease. My plant has been with me for about four years, and growth from a rather little plant to how it appears now has been constant. My plants have reached the point where they require annual repotting, but I hold off until the roots have completely encircled the base of the plant pot. Keep an eye out for signs that your plant needs to be watered more frequently, such as drooping or browned leaf tips. Because I prefer to keep the plant more snug in the container and can handle it better in my area this way, I only typically go up one pot size at a time.
Do you only keep one monstera plant per pot generally? Are different plants required to be kept apart?
When you start the process of repotting a monstera that has outgrown its container, you can discover numerous plants in each pot. Since many plants, like pothos, are frequently propagated from cuttings, growing them will accustom you to seeing how this appears in a single pot. However, if you’re not used to it, you might be quite surprised to learn that your plant is actually a collection of lesser plants. As long as there is adequate space for all of the plants’ parts to grow properly, whether you opt to separate these plants or not won’t have a negative impact on the plant. You might opt to separate them later on. I usually retain 1-3 plants in each pot, but sometimes tiny growths appear at the base; I’ve removed a couple of these and let them continue to grow. Here is a picture of one of them as it currently appears, which was formerly a little two-leaf plant at the foot of my large monstera:
Although I just recently repotted my monstera, why are its roots emerging from the pot’s base?
As I was checking on my plants to make this piece, I just so happened to realize that this had also recently happened to me! Monstera plants do grow strongly in the spring and summer, and your plant may be so content in a new (slightly larger) pot that it will quickly overrun its current location once more! I usually leave it for a bit because I just recently re-potted it and can already see the roots poking through the drainage holes of the planter. A few weeks later, when the roots are actually coming out of the holes, I’ll remove the pot and pick up the plant by the base and lift it out (this can be challenging if the plant is large, though!). Place back into the pot after adding about an inch of potting soil. It won’t require a major re-poting for a lot longer thanks to this extra space. Don’t repot monsteras too frequently because they usually grow best while slightly rootbound! You can also prune your roots, but we’ll get to that later.
How can you encourage leaf holes? Most of mine are lovely heart forms, but without holes.
It might surprise you to learn that there are numerous varieties of monsteras being cultivated, yet this is a very frequent query! The Monstera deliciosa ‘borsigiana’ cultivar is one of the many plants that have been designed to fit our homes and are available on the market today. Especially in the UK, this variety of monstera is most likely what you will find at your typical nursery or plant store. These plants can develop into huge specimens thanks to their smaller leaves and more compact growth habits, but their leaves lack the size and the stunning, many fenestrations of a “real” mature monstera.
As the plant ages, some people like to remove the ‘non-holey’ leaves to encourage the plant to produce more mature leaves (often with slits/holes!) In speaking, younger plants do not split until they are about 2-3 years old (see my baby plant above).
The other choice to be mindful of is growing plants from cuttings. Cuttings taken from an established plant can also yield larger, more mature leaves and avoid the problem of immature leaves with no holes.
When a moss pole is completely encircling the roots of a large monstera, how should it be re-potted?
If you can create a new moss pole that connects to the existing one, that would be wonderful because I prefer to keep the pole that holds my main plant in tact if possible. Removing the poles during the second time I replanted my two monsteras is covered in detail HERE on my blog.
This spring, when I repotted my plants, I discovered that the pole had retained some of its original position even after loosening the roots. Just a few of the stems and knots needed adjusting.
What are the aerial roots used for? Can you even cut them? I’ve tucked them inside the basket that my monstera is sitting in and wrapped them over the plastic pot it is planted in, but I’m concerned that this will harm them.
I am aware that some people choose to trim the aerial roots or gather them into a ponytail at the base of their plants. Since my plant is more developed and I can see the benefits of feeding them back into the pot’s soil, I personally don’t cut them. You can train them to hold on the support pole if they aren’t long enough. If you have a moss pole, you can water it to make it moist so that the aerial roots can absorb moisture from the support.
What occurs if you plant Monstera in a pot that is too large?
Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighborhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.
Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”
When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?
During the warmer months of the year, wait until the soil has dried to at least 50% of its depth. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.
How much light does a Monstera need?
Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.
When should I fertilize my Monstera?
Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer every other time you water. You can fertilize your plants every time you water them if they are growing quickly in the summer. Fertilize not during the winter.
Should I re-pot my Monstera?
The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.
Light
It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.
Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.
Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognize. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.
Watering
The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.
Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!
In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.
Fertiliser
As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertilizer. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertilizer. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertilizer and using it less frequently.
Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.
Repotting
Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.
It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.
Propagation
After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. You might need to stake the plant as it gets bigger in order to sustain this sprawling epiphyte and keep it standing erect. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.
The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.
Common Problems
Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mold on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.
If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.
The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.
Outdoors Care
When Monstera is outdoors, it is ideal to keep it in a semi-sheltered area. Try to locate a location where they are protected from the wind, frost, and hot afternoon sun. It should be mentioned that Monstera deliciosado does not need warm temperatures or high humidity. Although they will develop more quickly in the warmth, they can stay outside throughout winter in Melbourne. They will benefit much from the morning sun, which is completely OK.
This is the ideal place to start if you’re looking for a plant for your balcony or courtyard. This plant will grow quickly thanks to the additional bright light and the great airflow. Increased airflow around the plant will help to lower the risk of overwatering and the likelihood that viruses may infect the plants. I’ve discovered that in this posture, the leaves will also grow bigger and have more fenestration. You’re welcome to plant one right away in a garden bed!